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DPNM

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Posts posted by DPNM

  1. There are two levers on the U. The top (trigger) controls the air. The second controls the paint flow. The finger pad makes contact with the second lever to start paint flow. This means the trigger (air) is"full on" when the paint begins to flow. The further down the paint lever goes the more paint is sprayed. The wheel on the back lowers the paint lever. With practice you could have a preset amount of paint flow when you start and you could then modulate the trigger and use less air. This wheel works similar to the wheel on the front of older Paasche V or VLs or the screw on the post of a T&C or Badger. Those move their trigger backwards which will start paint flow.

     

    The pic shows the trigger just at the point of touching the paint lever.

    Woldu4ea.jpg.46bcf1c7972a46621afd1e55f9eba6eb.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. On 3/17/2023 at 12:57 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

    I'm in the market for some new airbrushes.

    Sure would like to see some examples of the work these produce for you...maybe start a thread somewhere else?

    I'd be interested too.

    On 3/17/2023 at 12:47 AM, ctruss53 said:

    My new Iwata Eclipse airbrush came in the mail today.

    I had an Eclipse airbrush years ago. Instead of buying another one, or even just the parts I needed when I broke it, I wasted an insane amount of money trying other airbrushes. I hated them all. Paasche, Badger, a couple cheap Chinese knock-off Badgers, and finally I spent some big money on a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution. They all sucked.

    I mean they worked fine, but I don't like that fiddly little needle seat you have to use a wrench on to take it off and clean it. And the Harder and Steenbeck Evolution was amazing, but every 5th time I took it apart to clean it out the o-ring would tear and then I was down until I could get another one. After the 3rd o-ring in 2 months I finally ponied up and got another Eclipse.

    End rant. :)

    Whatcha gonna do with the ones you don't like?

     

    I had one show up yesterday. Wold model U.

    wolduyel.jpg.1182761fef4e10a309508e970dd09bfd.jpg

    • Like 3
  3. One thing before you test it.

    You said you replaced the needle with one of a different color. Did you replace the nozzle and air cap that match the needle you put in? If you didn't it will not spray right. The needles are color coded for various sizes and the nozzle and air cap have to match.

  4. I added a couple more early brushes to my collection. They are both Aerograph E type brushes purchased from two different sellers in the UK. 

    I wanted the first one as I knew it was produced before the Super63, which coincidentally debuted around 1963  from what I've been able to learn, although I didn't know when for sure. With a bit of research I've found it should have been made around 1920-1930.
    aerovintE.jpg.db09b02c46c355e7fd03664d47ab00e0.jpg

     

    The second one is older. From the bulb style air valve connection this brush should be from the early 1900s to 1920.

    Charles L. Burdick founded the Aerograph Company (originally named the Fountain Brush Company) and moved to England. This brush has Chas L Burdick and the word Patent on the handle. There is no patent date. Both cases look to be original and in pretty good shape considering their age.
    aeroantiqueE.jpg.61bdcd33e163789555cd8967be6bb40d.jpg

    • Like 3
  5. 57 minutes ago, Bill Eh? said:

    That is a an awesome addition to your very historical collection. I'm reasonably good at disassembly and reassembly of modern airbrushes. I would be terrified to even think about taking something like that apart for fear of ruining a part.


    I was quite nervous myself Bill. I didn't want to damage anything. My friend (he's also my mentor) gave me an idea how it disassembles. Fortunately it came apart easily. Since no paint enters the body I should not have to disassemble it again.

     

    50 minutes ago, Joe Nunes said:

    Thank you for sharing the above post and photos.  I am not knowledgeable as to airbrush history and use.  I have a Badger Crescendo airbrush and haven't had the "courage" to use it yet. 😳🙄😆😁  I do, however, really enjoy reading about historical aspects of items from the early 20th century and find this airbrush design from the early 1900's to be quite fascinating. 

    Joe


    I find this brush extremely fascinating myself Joe. To think it was designed and manufactured way back then boggles my mind. To work as well as I was told is incredible to me. I thought it would spray more like a Paasche F or H. 

    You may as well start using your Crescendo. Practice is helpful. I have never owned one so I can't offer any advice. I believe they are similar to the Paasche VL which are very good airbrushes.

    • Like 2
  6. 1 hour ago, Joe Nunes said:

    Now this is an interesting piece of airbrush history. Thank you for the photos and sharing this with us.  👌

    Joe 


    You are welcome Joe.  I know most members here don't give two hoots about it but there are a few here who appreciate these vintage brushes as I do. Although I have nothing against more modern brushes, I have a few, my main focus now is finding early ones. I love the history and the design concept of them.

    The N was designed to not have paint in the body of the brush. The paint is only in the head. The brush is double action. A friend of mine has a number of the N models. He says it sprays as well as his Iwata HP-B. He is an artist not a modeler so his comparison means a lot to me. That said, this N may become my favorite and most used airbrush.

    This is how the siphon jar is opened. There are two ears that hold the jar when given a half turn.

    WoldNjar.jpg.09c1e7036d37bbbb56c4e65d1da2c078.jpg

    The disassembled brush is a Wold model A-1 I am working on. Not as old as the N.

    • Like 3
  7. On 2/1/2023 at 11:48 AM, Rodent said:

    Thanks Bill. No listed ingredients (proprietary) on the MSDS either. I am looking for something economical for the rare times I spray water-based acrylic, and this looks like it may do the trick.


    It should work very well on water based paints. It is one of the two things I use, the other being 91% Iso alcohol (no, not mixed together). Solvent based...not so much.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  8. First I need to give a big thank you to Bill (Ace-Garageguy). He had used a photograph of Hedy Lamarr in one of his posts. I didn't know who she was at the time. Once I was told I found her to be more than a great actress. She was an incredible lady. I ordered these. They arrived today. The DVD with Edward G has 4 movies. I'm not a musical fan but I figure she should have some nice costumes. Extase was one of her first films before she came to the US. Her last movie was in 1958. I was 3. Since this is a 3 day weekend for me I may be doing some binge watching myself.
    hedy3dvds.jpg.b9ed484d929f56842cae7f6b198c5cd7.jpg

     

     

     

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