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hedotwo

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About hedotwo

  • Rank
    MCM Avid Poster
  • Birthday October 23

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1:25

Profile Information

  • Location
    In a cabin, on a lake, in Northern Wisconsin
  • Full Name
    Rich Cox

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  1. An update for anyone following... I was able to pick up a small container of Oxy Clean and tested soaking the yellowed glass in it for 12 hours and unfortunately it didn't work. Or, if it did it was very little. Not enough to consider using the glass. I was able to score a really cheap '62 Bird from ebay and the front glass from that kit works on my HT just fine, so that's the route I'm going for the front anyway. The rear is much less cloudy than the front is, but I'll still be able to maybe fab a new one. It seems much more straightforward than making the front windshield anyway.
  2. After struggling with trying to remove the yellow "tint" from my '63 T-Bird HT front/rear glass I've decided to ask if anyone might have at a minimum the front glass from any of the '61-'63 Birds, ideally the rear for a HT too. If it's scratched it's no problem as long as it's clear 😉. I have stuff to trade if needed too. Thanks!
  3. Unfortunately, I used the last of our hydrogen peroxide to cover the glass the first time. Not sure how it is in your part of the country but I wasn't able to find any in our local stores the other day. We don't have any laundry booster here at the house but next time we're in town (30mi one way) I may pick up some Oxy Clean and give it a try. I'll still try and see if anyone has some used glass they'd be willing to donate or trade. Thanks
  4. Quick update... finally got a nice sunny day here in the Wisconsin northwoods today and I was able to soak the glass in hydrogen peroxide in full sun for 10 hours so far and unfortunately no change in the yellow. I'm thinking I'll need to make my own. I'll post in the wanted section to see if anyone might have a spare front windshield from the common '62 convertible kit. I think the rear glass might be a bit easier than the front. Thanks for all the suggestions!
  5. I’d thought about trying to make the glass too, Steve. To be honest, I’ve never tried it in all the years I’ve been building. This might be a great time to try 😃
  6. I've masked a few times with acrylic and found you need to be gentle with the burnishing of the edges but spraying such light coats over the tape edges really doesn't require you to press it down that hard to keep it from bleeding through like you might have to with rattle cans where the paint comes out heavier.
  7. Yes, I've worked on both the inside and the outside. I've never seen glass like this either, but it sure seems there's no end to it. I'll try the peroxide tip next although today is overcast wouldn't you know. I'll let you know if it worked. Thanks
  8. Lots of work went into this one! Looks super!
  9. I've used Folk Art (metallics, satin, and flat) a number of times for bodies. It's just another option for me to use and I don't use them exclusively. As a rule, I find they lay flat and you need to be patient and build up a number of coats. I use Creatix 4012 as my thinner, but have used plain old blue washer fluid also, with no real negatives. You do have to make sure you mix really well and I also strain through my homemade sieve before shooting too. The psi is 20-25. I have a nice little compact hair dryer that I use on the low setting between the thin coats and once I feel I've covered to where I want to be I then put it in the dehydrator for maybe 12 hours. Sanding is the big negative to craft acrylics, in my opinion. Thankfully, the paint lays flat and I've found that using a cotton cloth you can lightly buff the paint to get the surface even smoother. You also have to be careful of finger prints as they'll leave marks. Then comes the clear which is needed for sure to protect the delicate paint. I use Dupli-Color clear and build up a nice shine that will then accept polishing and light wet sanding if needed. I've found the Dupli-Color clear only needs a good polishing, not wet sanding. I'm not into contest quality builds but this type of painting has given me good results with easy cleanup and, as an added benefit it's great to use indoors if needed.
  10. How long did you leave yours in the alcohol Tom? Mine was in maybe 24 hours.
  11. Beautiful job! Congrats!
  12. Well, not surprisingly soaking overnight in the 92% alcohol didn't faze the yellow. I'll give the wet sanding one more try today, but not expecting much. Not sure about lightly tinting as I've never had any luck the times I've tried it. The sunlight test wouldn't hurt and I may try that. I'm assuming Future can be tinted to create a window tint? What would be good to use for the tint? Craft acrylic maybe? The times I've brushed Future it leveled decent and if it bombs I can easily remove it. Thanks
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