Ismael, this is looking great!
These are by far, my favorite race cars and I'm loving the updates.
I have a few photos that you may find helpful.
Yesterday, I went to the ALMS New England Grand Prix, and got some very up close shots of the C6-R Corvettes, and all the other cars. In the paddock, you really get up close to these.
It was a great day, and I had a pretty funny conversation with one of the Corvette techs about the driveshaft ordeal at LeMans and how they tried to get away with driving the car back to the pits on the starter so they could replce the driveshaft.
Side detail. The large circular hole behind the door is a vent with screening at the opening. Also note the red door latch handle, and the mirrors. On the #3 car, they are yellow with a carbon ring around the glass. On the #4 car, the mirror is completely carbon.
A couple shots with the right side door open. That shiny gold item is part of the air conditioning system.
Rear wing mounts.
And finally, two very cool details.
First is the rear mounted radiator and fan (BTW, your diffuser looks perfect compared to the real thing!)
Lastly, since you're going to open the doors, both Corvette's have an American flag in the inset of the driver's door. That would be a very cool detail to add.
I hope you can use these Ismael.
Here's a link to my Fotki album with all 134 photos.
I'm looking to do a classic drag car. Not sure which one, but I have an idea.
You see, my uncle used to own Dover Drag Strip in Wingdale, NY back in the day before he sold it once the gas and insurance crunches all but put an end to the weekend warriors that ran there.
I once saw, in an old issue of SAE, a drag car with Dover Drag Strip on the lower quarter panel. I can't remember what kind of car it was, or I would probably have a better time figuring out what decals were used and if I can still get them.
My daily driver is this 2001 S-10 ZR2. Bought it off my brother, who bought it new, and both of us are about as anal as people can be about upkeep and keeping our vehicles clean. Because of that, you could probably eat off the underside of this thing.
Now the fun....
My weekend and nice days car. 1984 Corvette I bought for a song. A mechanic I worked with at the time was doing a complete drivetrain swap in this when one of those huge ice-age type icicles broke off his roof and went through the hood, putting about an 8 inch diameter hole in the hood and puncturing the tire! The top of the icicle hit the windshield with such force, it cracked the windshield and completely blew out the window in the driver side door! Needless to say, he was extremely frustrated (to say the least) and the next day came to work and offered for sale to me because I had been bugging him for weeks to sell me the car cheap, which up until that point, he wasn't willing to do. SCORE!
A few replacement parts and a paint job later, and I had a nice weekend car that I drove for 7 years.
Then I decided to go all out on it. I had a 350 in my garage for a past defunct project that had been punched out 30 over. The crank was cut 10 under and polished. 10.5:1 compression pistons and a set of monster heads rounded the block out. I bought an '85 Vette that had been totaled from a rear hit, and took the TPI system and all the wiring from it and replaced the awful cross-fire system that was on mine.
A new Torch Red paint job (it was that disgusting 2-tone silver prior) and a nice new tan interior was all it needed. I had it run on the portable dyno that is at the local car show every weekend, and it was pushing 425hp! And it hasn't even been properly tuned yet! With the new Billy Boat exhaust I have coming, and a proper tuning, it should really be a monster.
Not bad for a $1300 car
I wouldn't do it. Even though many people have, using extremely light coats gradually built up, been able to put lacquer over enamel, it's just not supposed to be done.
I know a guy that swore he could do this time and time again, disregarding all the warnings. And it worked for him until he got to a project he had spent ages modifying the body on, getting it just so. That's when science finally caught up to him, or at least Murphy caught him.
Facts are facts, lacquer will attack enamel when sprayed over it, and even though it is possible to do, there is no gaurantee when it will or will not work.
Use a good automotive grade primer. I stay away from Duplicolor now. It tends to attack the softer plastic being used in the newer Revell kits. Plasti-coat has worked great for me over that stuff.
I have to agree on the Flintstone products. I've got four of his bodies, and I couldn't be happier with the quality. For $10 you just can't complain about anything, and there's no reason to!
I have only purchased two items from Reliable, but I was very happy with both pieces. One body, and one hood, and they were both very well cast.
Then again, I had been doing a lot of business with another resin parts caster who had given nothing but great service for years. Then, one day....boom. It was like he gave up on the business and all his customers, many of which had been waiting for orders they paid for months ealier.
So you never can tell when a good thing will go bad.
Been a long time since I've seen you post some new work. A long time my friend.
First off...congradulations on your championship!
Now on the build....as usual, it is exceptional! Your work is top notch, and I'm glad to see something new from you!
BTW, that guitar is rockin'. That's some incredible detail painting.