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    bartlett, IL
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    randy bartosiewicz

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  1. Thanks for the comments. Alcad was airbrushed no buffing, but out side band and top section in front is the brass from the kit. You can see the spray booth in one of the pics. The white cord looks brighter than what it is . It toned it tone it done with some pastel chalk. Hard to see in the pic. Did you read my earlier post about floor finish stripper for removing paint. It really works Great.
  2. Made some major progress not much left to go. For the rear wheels went back and added a brass washer for each lug. Many of the pics I have seen show the springs wrapped in rope, so I went over to Hobby Lobby and found some cord that was close to scale and wrapped all four springs. The axel and front end went together without any major problems. For the radiator I taped off the core and airbrushed with Alcad brass. I did not like the look of the black screw to secure the radiator to the frame. I reamed out the frame opening and the screw head went in a little deeper. I than took a brass washer and bolt. I trimmed the bolt head flush with the washer and used it as a cover for the screw. The steering system works wheel. I got the rivets from a supplier and finished the other chain. Thanks for looking comments or suggestion are welcome. Next update will be the complete model.
  3. Made some progress Radiator Used Alcad II Brass and Satin Seal. Test fit to frame. Gears Cut the plastic pins. Drilled out the stud and used a brass rivet and washer Chains Completed the chain for the passenger side. Got the 5/64 rivets cut the length to fit. I’m sure this is old news. I have been using commercial floor finish remover for a paint stripper. Zepp at Lowe’s or HD about $10.00 a gallon. It works well on all paints. A little longer on lacquer. I use it full strength, but it could be cut with hot water. It is ammonia free. The pics show the end results. It has not weakened the plastic or etched it. As always comments or suggestion welcome. Randy
  4. Made some progress since last post Test fit steering wheel and column. Mounted engine to frame using brass bolts. Hood- You can see the difference in color between the hood and rest of the frame. The screws from the kit are a pan head and would not allow the hood to close. Reamed out the hinge to fit a flat head counter sink screw. Problem solved. Gas line- The line from the kit was why to short so I fabricated my own line to the engine. Made one of the side curtains. The big set back was missing rivets to complete the chain (4 missing). Found a source in England. They arrived today. Why to long but fit perfect once cut down. Chain is done and ready for mounting. Comments or suggestion are always welcome. Randy
  5. Source for all things Pocher.. Model Motor Cars Marvin is the source for all good things Pocher. Nuts bolts etc. http://www.modelmotorcars.com/ Paul Koos You can find his DVD’s for Pocher building on ebay. To me they are a must have. He has put a ton of time and effort to make it well worth the price American Model Engineering Supply. http://www.americanmodeleng.com/index.html Macc Models UK Found them on ebay as a source for my missing chain rivets and other fittings https://maccmodels.co.uk/
  6. Hi Harry; We should meet some time. I'm in Bartllet. and we both know Big Joe. I have admired your work and try to come close to your level of work Randy
  7. Hello Group; I started this project in late summer. I just realized today to post the project. So this is the project up to date. All red parts where airbrushed using Testors primer and flat red cut with 1 part paint 2 parts lacquer thinner. All the other parts where shot with AlcadII. I tried to replace as many of the screws with brass nuts and or bolts. The molded in bolts and studs for the wheels and trans where all removed and replaced with brass. The floor boards and dash have molded in simulated wood. They where sanded down about 1/32 in. then planks where cut to fit and stained with a Minwax stain maker. The veneer is oak with an adhesive backing The out side edges for the floor and dash panel had the plastic rivets sanded off and replaced with brass and nickel rivets. I was too far into the project and did not replace the molded in bolts on the engine. I used a extra fine point paint maker. I added a wire loom for the plug wires and had it welded by a local jeweler maker for $10.00. The tape used for the hose clamps and being replaced with the PE clamps from Model Motor Cars. The radiator has a black bolt and nut the just doesn’t look good. I had to replace the black screw from the kit, due to the problem of no slot head in one screw with brass. Looks ok but I used a brass washer and bolt. Cut the head flush with the washer it seems to fit and cove r the screw. The screen on the carb came from the wire screen of a faucet arreator. The kit does not supply the lines for the left side of engine so I added lines just to give it a more complete look. The bracket was made using a female end of a spade connector and a brass bolt. The chain is assembled link by link. I as short 6 brass rivets and waiting for a source to sent out more rivets that will need a little modification. Any comments or suggestions area always welcome. More to come as work goes forward. Thanks Randy. .
  8. Hi Scott Very nice!!!!!!!!!!! Try Brady at scale auto works.. he might be able to get it or scaledetails.com From what I was told some of his products are pretty good Randy
  9. It's a new kit unbuilt. Got a good deal from Brady at Scale Auto. I put it on hold for a while. I decide to go for broke (in the piggy bank) and waiting for the Autograph trans kit from Brady. So it's on hold till I pay the trans kit off it some EZ payments . So it decided to start on the Mercedes 500K Sport Roadster with some upgrades that are more affordable. It's the old version new in box never opened So I think I will post pics and info on that. Randy
  10. Well it's done. It was a fun body. Fit and finish of parts was very good. Instructions at this can be confusing, since Pocher had at a few steps reverse the parts and were they go.. test fit every thing twice before you paint or do the final assembly. I would highly recommend the DVD from Paul Koss found on ebay. It was a great help in extra detailing and correcting some of the instruction mistake. Thanks for all your replies and comments. If any one is interested in my next build is going to be the Pocher F40. Let me know if any one would be interested in following it. Any questions you have feel free to e-mail me direct at siteinspect@msn.com Randy
  11. I got mine from scale auto works. Brady was great to work with and has better support than Hornsby. It is done I will be posting more pics Monday evening. Randy
  12. More progress over the last month. Almost at the finish line. ENGINE Assembly was straight forward without any problems. The engine offers a lot of opportunities for extra detailing. My decision was to concentrate on what can be seem, since most of the engine can’t be see once assembled. The intake cover on the real car is a texture finish. I first finished the Lambo script with BMF. I then applied two light coats of Rustoleum fine texture finish. After is dried I wet sanded the script to remove the paint. It seems to match well for the scale. Did some detailing of the bolts on the valve covers using a fine point silver paint marker. The engine and trans were painted with Alcald. I used several different shades of Alclad for the exhaust system. For the heat shield I used a cloth type bandage then painted it silver and added some metal furnace tape to wrap the ends. Brake lines where made using heat shrink tubing. It works great if you first shrink. It bends much better. Not much left to go so it should be done by the first week of April. Any comments or suggestions are always welcome. Randy
  13. Made some major progress Lights There are 9 lights that can only fit one way. This part was a character builder for sure and they do not give you any extras if you send it to carpet hell. Used a white tacky glue to set in place then sprayed the entire assembly with a clear gloss to help hold in place. I did this before the head light and light bar were installed The "Y" shaped light bar is clear and would not be visible with a black background. I tried some silver paint on the back side, but it did not look good. I then used BMF which worked better. Hood The hinges will rub against the body when closed so I used some clear tape were the hinges rest when the hood is closed to protect the black paint. Trunk The trunk insert is to be screwed in place and not removable. Used the mod provided on the Lambo build DVD to make it removable. Windshield The top side has a protective cover on the top side ..... that stays on till the build is done. All the clear plastic for windows is secured with double face tape that is on one sheet in template form. It work great for the side windows and part of the door glass. The verdict is still out on the windshield.. the black trim on all glass is pre-finished. Doors First thing is the instructions have the part number for the left and right hinges reversed. The hinges can only fit one way on to the body since they are spring loaded for the door to swing up. Once I figured that out everything else went fine. The doors are lining up fine with the front half of the body so far. Rear Heat Shield I added silver duck tape to simulate the heat shield. Hope you enjoy the pics. Any comments or suggestions are always welcome Randy
  14. Front end is done. Jumped added to the front build Everything went together well. Did a few extra details. Added battery cable to the stock wire loom provided. I had to use some sheet styrene to fill in the opening for the batteries in the front. Used BMF on the shock pistons. Added the brake lines using 20 gauge wire, heat shrink tubing and some metal tape strips to simulate the compression fitting. Used the decal sheet from Paul Koo, since he provides the correct decals for the shocks and batteries. Any comments or suggestions are welcome. Randy
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