The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
Why don't you try Zero Paints?? All they need is the colour code. Or try a local auto-paint supply shop, same deal, provide the code & they can mix you a batch. ( in most cases they can get the code themselves, if they have a decent computer sourcing system for paint codes ) 👍
I'd get either the Charger or Challenger, if they were sold here in Aus' 😊👍 The 300C is but I've heard it's going to be dropped from the line up here & replaced by the Charger 😊😊 On another note, while on my morning jog up to the beach this morning I was stopped in my tracks by an 2010 SRT Challenger... Licence plate SRT426!! First one I've ever seen here in Australia ( Newcastle NSW ) up close & personal!! I want the Hellcat!!
I'm happy for Ya mate! Hope it all goes to plan, it's a beautiful car & a great representation by Tamiya of it... The semi-detailed engine could've been better, but it is what it is & it's not a huge issue to me. Having being able to build it trumps not having 1 to build 😉👍 Yeh I know there are quite a few after-market companies offering PE for this kit & I haven't actually seen Studio 27s version because I bought the DBS +Aber PE at a great price, especially seeing what came in it! Lots of extra detailing can be had & those metal discs/calipers... Just 😳😳 WOW! The only thing I really didn't like about the kit, as with most kits, especially Fujimi, were the tyres... No sidewalk detail & much too thick/big in the DBS's wheel housing 😏 I used some spare-parts tyres I had, which made a big difference 😊
If you plan it out ... Colour schemes/interior etc... It'll go a long way to the end result 😉👍
As for criticism... I prefer advice... When & if you need it mate 😊👍 Most of us can handle it either way but there are some that really just need a box of tissues 😉😉 Lol
Cheers Cliff.. I'll be sure to check out your GTR 👍
Justin... There's no avoiding orange peel mate. You can lay down the smoothest of smooth paint jobs but there will always be some level of orange peel that would need to be polished out, for that truly smooth appearance... 😉👍 All that's needed is time, effort & patience 😉👍
Not a problem at all Justin, you're more than welcome 😉👍 Most are here to help & give advice when asked 👍
You'll love that AM DBS kit... It's a ripper! I built 1 a few years ago when it was released & have another, with the full PE Aber detailing kit which is superb! The metal-transfers ( for badges/engine call-out ) are quite finicky... Patience & care should be taken when applying them 😉👍 & I hope to see it in the WIP section soon 😊👍
Seems like you actually have a good sense of what's needed so far 😉👍 I've not used Testors 1 coat clear so I can't comment on that particular paint. As for Tamiya... They're great! Decanted even better, just because it allows you the freedom to control the pressure & amount that you want to spray 😊👍
When you get to the 2 full wet coat stages you'd only need 10-15mins between coats, depending on the weather 😉 Let it sit for a good 24hrs then wet sand the whole body/parts with 3600-4000 grit cloth. Use a little dishwashing liquid, it'll help when it comes time to wash of all the impurities ( warm water/toothbrush -gently ) After a good dry, add your decals & again let them dry at least another 24hrs to allow ALL the moisture to seperate from underneath them completely. When ready hit the clear coats... Very low pressure 10-12psi... Nice & close 😉👍 Again, 15-20mins between coats. Repeat the wet sanding process, giving the clear at least 24-48hrs to gas right out ( again depending on the weather/air temperature 😉👍 )
Wet sand with 4-6-8000- 12000 if you really want to 😉 Then polish/wax. Never wax before clear/decals... The decals nor paint will stick to a surface that's been polished - particularly waxed surfaces!
Always remember too... While this process works in general, it's always a case of what works for you & your style/equipment & paint etc... Trial & error is a learning curve... 😉👍😊
Hope this helps mate 👍 Cheers
G'day mate... I can't speak for everyone as we all have our different types of paint we like using & different techniques. Some people never clear-coat, most do. Some never polish out final paint & some do. It's all a mixed bag really... But to answer your questions... As far & as best I can...
Enamels... They're ok for finer detailing, such as smaller parts/interior etc... For bodies & larger parts I'd go with lacquers or Acrylics. They dry much faster & are less tempremental than enamels... Enamels take forever to dry, especially if you paint on bad weather days... Too hot or too cold... That's something to think about. As for enamels that ARE gloss... No, you don't need to clear coat on top, but can if you so desire. Most enamels are labelled gloss/semi-gloss/flat/Matt. With enamel clear, from past experience, they tend to yellow over time & will ruin your once nice paint job, especially if you had decals underneath it.
As for sealing decals with polishing... I wouldn't. I've never used this Future stuff before, mainly because it's not available in Australia & because there are far better alternatives from the 1:1 Automotive range, when it comes to polishing/waxing products. 😉 Seal your decals under clear coating 👍
Do not use Lacquer over enamel... Lacquer paint is "hotter" than enamel & will craze your enamel coat/s.
The only paints that will dry flat are paints labelled as such... Flat or Matt paint. The only exception being Auto 1:1 2 pack paints. ( base coats ) like touch-up spray cans ( Dupilcolour etc ) they will require a gloss clear coat for shiny results.
You're doing a wonderful job on the weathering! 68-70 Chargers are my favourite Mopar & muscle car 😊👍👍 If I could offer a little bit of advice, that would add a little bit more realism & it appears you haven't glued the headers to the exhaust pipes yet... maybe attach the exhaust pipes to the headers with glue, allow it to dry solid, then saw off the pipes where they join the headers ( like on a 1:1 ) . Then when you've put it all together ( the body/chassis ) you can attach the exhaust pipes to the headers & you won't have a dodgey ( no pun intended ) looking exhaust.
Cheers & keep up the good work 😊👍
Extremely sorry to hear mate! 😔 But as has been said, you & your family are safe 😊👍 Everything else IS replaceable 👍 Take your time, get your life etc sorted & when you're ready... Forum & modelling will still be here 😊👍