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About Alfa158

  • Rank
    MCM Member

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/25 to 1/20

Profile Information

  • Location
    Southern California
  • Full Name
    Mario Liegghio
  1. Same here. I have the unbuilt kit in my stash, so I should finally build it as a tribute now that the mid-engine Corvette is a reality. The original concept used a four rotor Wankel before GM killed Wankel development and replaced it with a standard small block V8. I have the kit of the Mazda LeMans winning racer which also had a four rotor Wankel. There are a few photos online of the GM four rotor Wankel, so I think when I build this Corvette I will disguise the Mazda rotary as the GM one and transplant it into the Corvette. I've been watching for the last 50 years news about the mid-engine corvette about to be released and it’s weird to finally see it come true. Sadly I live deep in an urban sprawl where it is, on a good day or in the middle of the night, a one hour drive to even get to a sports car type road, so I no longer own sports cars.
  2. Ahah, I wasn’t sure about the Cobra. I still have the boxes for the two Ford GTs but not for the Cobra so I was trying to dredge which manufacturer it was from my ancient memories. What I need to do is go into the garage and find those boxes to verify what they were. I’ll post the photos once I get them down. It’s amazing thinking back; in the mid sixties my family used to go to the beach under the take off pattern for LA International. That would take us up Imperial Highway and past the Shelby factory on the south end of the airport. I used to stare out the window of our ‘57 Ford and drool at the white with blue stripes GT350’s waiting to be shipped. I also once recall a row of stripped AC’ s that must have just come off an air freight flight and were ready to be rolled in to the plant for conversion to Cobras.
  3. IMC also made an original configuration GT-40. It was the one that had a huge aerodynamic lift problem. That and the MKIV were among the few kits I built as a kid in the '60s that somehow survived my mother cleaning out my stuff while I was in the Air Force. It might be because I had kept them in their boxes and she tossed kits but didn't toss the boxes. BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH shame I didn't keep my Tamiya 1/12 Ferrari 312B in a box :-). I think the original 260 Cobra shown here was also an IMC? Nice kits with opening body panels and steerable wheels.
  4. I couldn't find that nail polish but I did find a perfect match in a Dupli-Color touch up paint. It is Ford Sonic Blue Pearl, 03787. Ford's factory paint code is SN. I shot a plastic spoon, cleared it, and it looks like the color in the best photos of the car I could find on-line. (I found more photos since I started looking in March, but they were still all indoor lighting.) So that is what I'm going with.
  5. Thank you for the tip. I looked at the two web sites and they look like mirror images but are not the same company. It appears that the US company was a distributor for the manufacturer in Spain but they had a falling out. It may be that the colors you ordered were still in stock with the former distributor so you received your order. At least one of the colors I ordered may not be in stock with the US distributor and they can't get any more, so my order disappeared down the black hole. My attempts to communicate with the former distributor have been ignored so I canceled the order with my credit card company and they credited me for the amount. It appears that the real Gravity Colors will ship internationally so once the dispute is closed, and I know I have the charge permanently reversed I will try ordering directly. Good to have a community to talk with!
  6. I'm at over two months, no product, and no response to my inquiries. Their site is back up as far as taking orders and processing your credit card, but I see no evidence of deliveries and have written off the money I paid them. I guess at some point I will report them to my credit card company and dispute the charge. Good luck, and let us know if you get any paint.
  7. Thank you for the link. Reading through this it appears that Matt is basically running a business where he is in over his head and has had problems meeting customer needs from the start. I also see there are two similar websites. I don't know if he is using a separate website for EU sales, or if Matt is reselling a paint made in Europe, or what is going on here, but it is poor practice. If it is the latter then he may have gotten into a situation common to underfunded small operations where he is behind on accounts payable and is not getting any more product from the supplier until he catches up. I any event I am going to look for another source for the paint I was trying to procure.
  8. I was wondering if this company is gone. I ordered $40 worth of paints almost two months ago and they have gone radio silent. They still had an ad in the last edition of Model Cars Magazine, and their web site is still there, but my order status shows as "processing", and they have not responded to my inquiries about the status of the order. I had an e-mail conversation with Matt at the beginning of March and I had the impression from that that they're kind of a one man operation. I know our hobby has a lot of small business that can get behind the eight ball financially so they come and go. Anybody else heard anything?
  9. I e-mailed Matt at Gravity Colors. He thinks that the best match is their Pagani Huayri Blue. I ordered a jar and will try it out. I wish I could find a good photo of the Eldorado in sunlight. Even Foose's site has all the photos taken indoors, and mercury or fluorescent lighting can through the color off. In any event if I can get something that looks like the rich color in the photo I posted I will be more than happy.
  10. Thank you. One problem is that the only good photos I have of the original car were like the one I posted that were taken indoors. Mercury or fluorescent lights will change the color, even with digital cameras that have ambient light color re-balancing functions. I did try initially matching nail polishes, but couldn't find one as close as the Sally Hansen one you used. Matt at Gravity Colors thinks that the Pagani Huayri Blue is a good match to the Foose Eldorado, so I ordered a jar and will see how it looks once i receive it.
  11. I have been trying to find a hobby paint that most closely matches the color of the actual Foose car. Some people have used a Tamiya blue but I see in photos on-line the car is a custom dark blue with a tinge of purple to it. The closest (but not quite exact) color match I have been able to make from on line searches is Lamborghini Hera Blue Pearl. Gravity Colors has this paint. I found multiple images of the Lambo in this color, and the Foose Eldo, and these two attachments seem like good representations. Does anyone have anything closer? If not, I'm going to try the Gravity Pearl over a black primer to darken it a bit.
  12. Good advice. The only older cars I have detailed experience with are my old '57 Fairlane and '68 Dart so I remember from afternoons of washing and polishing that the 60's Dodge had a lot more SS than the 50's Ford . I think what I might do is use Ace's info on how the material used may be driven by the techniques needed to make that shape. In cases where I can't get the research material I will probably assume thick, rigid, complex shapes such as headlight and taillight bezels and bumpers are chrome and items like window and side trim are most likely SS. Thanks everybody!
  13. OK this is kind of a nit-picking issue but I tend to suffer from AMS (Advanced Modelers Syndrome; I still shake my head over the time I fabricated homemade wire wheels for a $5 swap-meet SMER Alfa-Romeo kit). I know that the large shiny trim parts on cars, such as bumpers are usually hard chromed pieces but some of the smaller trim such as drip rails and window frames are actually polished stainless steel. I know how to simulate either one; for chrome I use Bare Metal Foil and for stainless steel I use a Pilot extra fine point silver marker (SC-S-EF).The Pilot makes it easy to apply paint to narrow surfaces and it dries hard to a finish that gives you that shine of stainless steel that is just short of the sort of hard deep shine you get with chrome. The question I have is what are the guidelines for which to use where? I can't always rely on having access to a 1:1 that I can inspect, and I can't tell from reference photos which goes where on which cars. I have a vague idea that the SS trim did not become common until around the 60's and I think it was usually used on pieces that are thin and have to flex such as window trim. Any suggestions on guidelines?
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