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goosedude

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About goosedude

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    MCM Member

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  • Scale I Build
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  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Full Name
    Frank Cardoza

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  1. Are there any old threads with tutorials on turning front wheels? I'm talking about making the model look like it has working front steering. Also, any tips on how to turn the front wheels on old AMT steel rod kits? Any advice would be great.
  2. I'm trying to build the revell 69 camaro z-28 using the white decals. After applying them, I realize that they are too transparent and show the color underneath. Are there any aftermarket decals available that are more opaque? Maybe I add another set on top?
  3. I got mine at a local ace hardware. It's no longer called Future...its Pledge floor shine.
  4. I want to try using future as a clear clear coat. How do you guys buff it to a hi gloss? Also, can you polish or sand out dirt or debris from it?
  5. Does anybody have a trick to make louvres? I'd like to put some on a 56 chevy that I'm doing.
  6. I'm trying to dress up a few models that I wanted to enter in a contest. I've all types of displays and stands at shows. I've seen the rotating bases as well. I wanted to do something nice, simple and cheap. Any suggestions? Is there a good source somewhere for small beveled mirrors?
  7. I want to chop a Modelhaus 56 Lincoln Premeire. The front pillars are very thin and I'm not sure how to glue it back on. What would you guys recommend for glue? CA glue? I'm trying to build a replica of this car...
  8. Purple Power will do the trick. You'll have to leave overnight and then get a toothbrush and push the paint off. I use auto-air all the time and love it.
  9. I wanted to try building a slammer. I know it has no interior or engine with blacked out windows. What do you guys do for the chassis? Should I use the kit chassis or just a flat peice of styrene?
  10. I'll give Mr. Hobby clear a try, thanks for the tip. I just picked up a food dehydrator...maybe I can dry the clear coat to make it more durable.
  11. I'm using the acrylic clear (X-22) from a bottle, not the spray. I try to keep everything water-based to have a toxic fume free workspace. I can get a glass smooth finish with it.
  12. I was trying to spot paint a little area that I wasn't happy with. I was painting scallops and was trying to remask one to do over. Obviously the clear should be last...my fault. I even called Tamiya and they said the acrylic clear is not for top coating. Strange...what else would it be for? I do love how they're clear comes out though.
  13. I used Blue 3M tape, tape from an autobody supply and Tamiya tape. All of them damaged the clear.
  14. I was trying to do some spot painting on a body painted with Tamiya acrylic clear. I let it dry for 10 days and decided to do some touch up work. I used Tamiya tape and any other tape I could find...the result was riuned clear. When I remove the tape it leaves a rocky texture that is hard to polish out. What am I doing wrong?
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