The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
I like it what you are after on the finish. Do you think the effect is still as intense when out in the sun or is it just the picture? For what it is worth from the bargain corner..... Something I found offers lots of forgiveness/redo opportunities is highly diluted cheap water based paints that come in first time "craft kits/finger paints". You can usually find a whole assortment of colors for a $1 from Hobby Lobby and sometimes Dollar General. Dilute it highly - guessing around 50 to 1. I use a large worn out brush and a Q tip and just slop away. At first it will not want to stick so it may take a bit of massaging and time. I go overboard with it and then go back with a damp Q tip to remove the excess. If you don't like the results, just wash it off under the sink or use a bit of Windex on a Q tip. It is more durable that chalk and works well (for me anyway) on fuel tank stains and oxidized aluminum parts. Good luck.
Thank you all again. I am yet to start on the hood side emblems but at JT's prompting, the sleeper is underway using old CD cases which are within 2mm of what was needed and eliminates the edge/corner issues. One other challenge is the desire to apply "factory" exhaust stacks with the pattern GM used on the heat shields. If anyone has any ideas (short of attempting to drill and elongate a half million slots) I am all ears. See below for a close up of what I am after. Thank you. Peace
By far one of the finest builds to date in my less than humble opinion. Truly an OUTSTANDING effort and accomplishment few dare tackle much less see to completion. My hat is off to both of you! Let him know the ferry and the half track in the background look cool too. Peace
Thank you for the kind words. Very humbling. Yes, the change from General to Bison was made. It is in conjunction with another novel in the series I am working on which a 1980 black "owner operator" Bison is somewhat center stage. (www.macfixx.com) Besides, from a modeling standpoint, the Chevy grille and a bow tie is easier to whip up in 1/16 than a bunch of lettering and the more complex GMC grille. I am still yet to figure out how to do the emblems on the side of the hood but may see what emerges with a bunch of solder blobs and poking/pressing/digging it with a tiny screwdriver and old dental pick. Peace.
Just goes to show I for one have no idea what tomorrow holds as a window of opportunity presented itself over the past weeks instead of the opposite as expected. The windshield is made out of a 2 liter pop bottle cut and warmed with hot water to shape. I am still not satisfied with the grille but so far it is the best I have been able to come up with using scrap wire and straightening it. Might try it one more time as it seems it takes 3 times on everything to get it "right". Functioning headlamps will be going in at some point and bulbs have been scrounged. Ditto clearance lamps. Nothing is glued in yet and a sleeper is still to fabricate. Need to see what I can find in the bargain aisle at Dollar General or the flea market to get started on it. Peace
It was often called "inside/outside" air filtration by most builders as I recall. Fresh air comes in under the hood. Sadly I have no pix of one with the hood tilted but it seemed the under hood routing was improvised though first hand exposure to them was few and far between. Yes, they typically were found in snowy climates to prevent snow packing. Most non cookie cutter OEM's offered the option and was quite popular in Canada well into the mid 80's. From what I recall, it was a VERY pricey option for what it was. It was also helpful (so the marketing sorts claimed) in high dust environments like grain and coal hauling. I recall a few coal haulers in Appalachia with it. The theory was sound; actual effectiveness? Debatable. Some swore by it....others at it. Dealers were after GM to offer it on the General and Bison but honestly dont recall it ever showing up in the data book instead dinking around with all kinds of caps and pre cleaners that simply bolted on top of the can not affecting the hood or underneath though I am confident SOMEBODY offered them as "universal kits" for dealers and owners to apply themselves.
First off thank you all for your very kind words and encouragement. I have been remiss of offering my own to all of you with no valid excuse. The works I see unfold continue to amaze and inspire. While totally inadequate and impersonal, an across the board "wow" to you all. Anyway, it appears life is such this project is going to have to sit but wanted to try pulling the pieces of putty together as perhaps a parting shot for a bit. Tape and toothpicks holding it together and paint yet to polish out, but provides a pick up point for in the future. Regards to you all. Peace.
While to far too fresh to be polished out as that will come in a few days, the first color is applied. I am a fan of Wicked Colors paints. Not too bad for a largely junk/scrap conglomeration in my less than humble opinion. The grille surround is going to be tricky. The want is there to use BMF but the compound curves at the top front pose trouble avoiding seams/cuts/overlap given my clunky skills. I may go the with Alclad but that talent needs honing as well. A battle for another day I suppose. While black was not the originally planned primary color, it was in the resource box and is part of a second novel underway hopefully out by the end of the year (along with this thing). Peace.
Thanks. Been fussing and expanding my vocabulary in less than eloquent way with the headlight buckets. They are not spot on so some artistic liberty will have to suffice. Headlights will have all bulbs lit. Lots of cleanup remaining but hopefully enough to get an idea. Tricky to not have this thing not evolve into a Superliner hood which it seems to want to do. I think if I can get the styling lines back in the hood sides it will help.
A bit of rambling and ranting here on old Detroits.... For what it is worth, external dimension wise the "bare block" on the 71 and 92 are the same. The letter after the cylinder/configuration/ci displacement designation reveals a great deal about it as well. N, T, TT, TTA, etc. There were probably a dozen or more variations. There were a few rigs that had 92 series 2 strokes with DDEC in the 80's (electronics that were to be the cornerstone of the series 60) but not many as by then the self destruct button had already been pressed within GM. If you really want to find out about hot rod old Detroits, Johnson and Towers in NJ were THE masters of hopping them up for yachts builders. They were by far the industry leader in terms reputation and production numbers getting HP and RPM's out of 2 stoke Detroit's that will blow your mind. Google some engine rooms on yachts in the 40-70 foot range from the 1970's (Egg Harbor, Post, Viking were but a few of the high end yacht builders sourcing from them). Impressive numbers and darn good looking and running stuff. There are lots of forums on these older yachts with great close up pics and info. Just remember the cooling system is totally different using heat exchangers instead of a radiator. Most were painted white and kept clean which is great for spotting details on in the pix. And if you want to get "weird" look into side by side version of the 12V71. Basically two 6-71's built Saimese twin style with two cranks.
Yup. Cummins. Hard to tell HP but likely between 290 and 400 given age. You may notice the "Formula" decal. That is an "authentic" Cummins sticker. I can only guess it was applied at overhaul/repair a bit sloppy. NTC series (which most opted for) engines were governed to 2100 RPM. Formula series engines (which externally are basically identical) run up to only 1900. Fuel savings in the day was the idea. Ahhhhhh.....amnesia alley.
Something I have done on custom decals is actually take a jpg and crop it the best I can and then "fill in" using the background paint color in MS Paintshop. (Free). Then I just print it on WHITE decal paper. (unless you have the ability to print white) It is a little tricky to not "crack it". I have tried various clears and even hair spray all with mixed results. It is not perfect but is cheap and gets the job done until something better comes along. I prefer paper like the below far more than Testors and what is found in Hobby Lobby. http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/decalpaper.html It is how I do my "looney tunes" mudflaps and a few other things. If you can find a good shot of the cartoon character give it a try. It is trial and error obviously so I just use "draft mode" in black and white on cheap paper until I can size everything right. With regards to your Fredrickson Logo, check this is out in the model RR world. Maybe you can find one, get some good pix or ?????? http://www.wig-wag-trains.com/Athearn-Pages/Athearn Pics/Vehicles/Mack/T-T/12187_Fredrickson.JPG Good luck.