My friend goes through a lot of tires on his cars. Says the tires can be bought without the rims. On real aluminum hot rod rims & up against another car like the coupe, they will take on an entirely different vibe.
I'm currently considering something along these lines. Like to find them sized so the model can have big & littles to help the rake. Still have a while before I've just got to have them...keep looking.
Hi Scott. I've thought about the weight thing. I'm using hi strength silver solder with a torch for good even heat & the frame, as it is, is quite strong & rigid. By the time I add the cage, I don't see any problems with the amount of weight it will hold. Tires...??...don't know...have to wait & see. A friend is big into rc cars & there are some nice sturdy tires out there for them. I'm going to cut my own wheels, so I can size them to work with what ever I choose. Been looking at some that have what they call a chain link tread that are used for hard surface rc cars...corners etc. This car is an eclectic blend of old school hot rod body styling setting on a current technology frame/cage & set up for corners...nascar road race type stuff..accelerate, brake, turn, shift, accelerate...etc. Engine wise, I'm a big fan of the big merc cruiser marine engines of over 500 ci, where they can put them on the red line & leave them there for an hour or so at a time... So, I'm thinking a new style tire with a funky tread pattern might be visually interesting here. I don't think the model will weigh more than some of his nitro rc's, so they should stand up ok under the weight.
Thanks, guys. Michael, the taps are not expensive so figured I'd give it a try...just for grins. If I pull it off it'll be a nice warm fuzzy moment for me. As far as my rating, I feel it could be done a little "tighter',..just little things... but it's not loose enough where I'm willing to spend another 3 days cutting another one. This one is "take 3", as it is.
Bought a slitting saw & arbor. This one is 4 in dia & is 1/16 thick. I rotate the table & feed it in a thou, or so at a time. It gives me a smooth, polished, machined looking surface on the back of the parts where the cut was made. This pic is from when I separated the first end hub from the stock.
Hi Michael, Yes, think big. That's the back plate. Turning out much better this time...so far. Your talking about lighting prompted me to get a small, bright led flashlight from my night stand. That with the 2x flip downs allowed me to see well enough to get good placement for my drilling. My original intent was to buy hardware with black oxide finish for visual contrast. Couldn't find a supplier who had all the sizes I wanted in black. Want to keep it consistent...so went with the stainless instead. I'm thinking that as I handle the aluminum parts during the build they will take on a bit of a duller patina. This should allow the stainless to stand out with a bit more contrast.