Plastheniker

As always from you: SIMPLY PERFECT! Another proof that a skilled modeler does not depend on one of those sophisticated modern Aoshima/Fujimi/Tamiya aso kits ( aka Milli Vanilli kits....).

Another beautiful result from your workbench, I love the colour!

Thanks for the comments! Phil, I use an improvised "photographer's tent" made from scrap tubes and an old white bedsheet. Usually I light the bedsheet from outside, if necessary I put two small lamps inside that light the bedsheet only (but not the model directly). Base/background is one single large sheet of white Bristol paper (drawing cardboard). On pictures the strong contrast between model and paper makes the white base/background disappear completely. IMO not perfectly aligned bonnets/doors/trunk lids or varying gaps spoil otherwise nice models. Therefore I use to build almost all my models as curbsides with glued bonnets, doors and trunk lids. When I want to show a detailed engine/gearbox I display it separately. Sometimes I build an additional detailed chassis.

Excellent work, v e r y realistic!

Super clean and attractive model, great detailing!

Thanks for the response! Pat, thanks for the picture. It shows very clearly what I said about the stance and the rims. Howard, to my knowledge there were no aftermarket rims but note Andy's (Modelmartin's) post below (appr. post #25). As mentioned making the six rims was a challenge. IMO it cannot be done without a small lathe. The polished aluminum appearance can be achieved easily by spraying Molotow chrome paint directly from the refill bottles.

Hi, most of Heller's 1/24 car kits were released during the seventies. They can make really beautiful models but not in the fast and easy way of modern kits. All Heller kits I know have one common issue that makes assembly needlessly difficult and sometimes really enigmatic: Drawings of Heller's assembly instructions often give only a vague idea of the correct parts location, and Heller parts don't have the usual pins and holes. Therefore it is wise always to simulate the following assembly steps before gluing anything. Some Heller kits do not have separate glass parts for the side windows. Instead each side has one single clear part comprising door panels,windows and window frames. At first glance this seems to be a good idea because it is no longer necessary to use any glue near the windows. Actually, however, the disadvantages outweigh the advantages as soon as window frames are foiled. Then every first cut has to be perfect because every failed cutting attempt would leave conspicuous grooves on the windows. Moreover removing foiling residue from clear parts requires utmost caution, even more if household foil adhesive was used. And finally, making a half-open window for better visibility of the interior becomes very difficult. This particular Heller kit of the iconic Bugatti 50 T has two salient and rather incomprehensible shortcomings. If they are not tackled the finished model won't look very realistic: The stance of most finished models is obviously wrong. Their front is so high and their rear is so low as if the trunk had been filled with concrete. For a realistic stance the upper edges of the chassis rails have to be exactly horizontal. The characteristic alloy rims of the original 50 T look like this: Heller's rims, however, have only faint resemblance. Note that they haven't even a rim flange: Nevertheless I never saw a finished model with better rims. Making six more realistic rims is rather painstaking and time-consuming, but IMO the effort pays off even if the result is not absolutely perfect. Besides I remember some comperatively minor issues: The original 50 T had cable-operated adjustable friction shock absorbers. The kit has simple one-piece parts without any details. Since the open front fenders of the finished model reveal them they should be detailed or replaced. The same is true for the cable-operated front brakes. All details, i. e. levers, deflection rollers and cables, are omitted and should be added. OOB some body details are either omitted (trunk hinges and trunk catches) or moulded (bonnet catches, door handles and door hinges) The two lateral ventilation flaps, poorly simulated by raised panel lines, should be scribed OOB the interior is rather simple. The kit dashboard has large recesses at both ends. Even if probably correct on Heller's 1:1 reference car such a dashboard would be atypical for a 50 T. With these reservations Heller's 50 T can make a convincing replica that can sustain comparison with most modern models. It requires, however, more time, resilience and skills than modern kits.

Excellent work, all the more as it is a resin model.

Dominik, this is really different! I hope that you will not be haunted by Rudolf Uhlenhaut's ghost. In reality it would take some courage and some money to modify one of the two Uhlenhaut Coupés. According to a list of the world's most valuable cars each of these two has an estimated current value of appr. 60 million Dollars - if Mercedes would ever sell them. BTW guess which car inspired Scaglietti to design Roberto Rossellini's 1955 Ferrari:

Beautiful, I wish I had one of them in my garage.

Breathtaking model, stunning paintwork!

Perfect work as always!

Nice and very different! Viewing the second picture I first assumed an illegal device for keeping racing competitors at distance . BTW exactly 25 years ago besides some rather convincing Cobra replicas this hideous VW-something was offered here in Germany. I have no idea if anyone ever bought one:

Well done! We can only appreciate old models considering the very limited means modelers had in the past and particularly before say 1970.

Helmut, I reviewed my books and magazines, but I only found some of those b/w pictures shown on the web. On all these pictures the paintwork of #230 appears rather dark compared against the tires. IMO this makes a bright red paintwork unlikely, and even in the wild early post-war years grey-blue on an Alfa racing car seems not very plausible. An undated painting of #230 found on the web shows a burgundy paintwork. Burgundy would be my personal assumption, too. Provided that every diecast manufacturer does some research before choosing his paintworks all these very different colours suggest the assumption that there is no solid knowledge about the paintwork of #230 at all.