Peter, thanks a lot! I am always happy when an outstanding modeler like you appreciates one of my models.
Thomas, I found my description in a German forum (Post # 14). http://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Thread&threadID=44309 If anything is not understandable please let me know.
I don't want to interfere in your decision but before tackling the F cab as your very first resin attempt you should be aware of the large and curved windscreens. Even if you accept the blemishes of the white glue method glazing them is rather difficult by comparison. Moreover for any Mack cab you would need a pricey AMT/MPC Mack donor kit.
Thomas, I am sorry, I never start WIP threads. As mentioned in earlier topics I find taking pictures and making notes while building very disruptive - this was the reason why I stopped writing magazine articles many years ago. Generally I prefer How-to articles and tutorials because IMO they mean less expenditure of time for the author and more benefit for the reader.
Making dashboard switches is simple, fast and inexpensive.
pull-switches (as on the W-71 dashboard): Use easily available metal head pins with standard shaft diameters (mostly 0.6 to 0.7mm). Insert a pin into a rotary tool. Insert a cutting wheel (no matter if emery or diamond) into a second rotary tool. When both are running reduce the diameter of the pin head to a cylindical shape. Then cut off the pointed end of the pin to get a handy length. As described above when making chrome bezels use bright wire to make rings with an inside diameter slightly bigger than the shaft diameter of the pin. Such a ring simulates the visible nut that fixes the 1:1 switch onto the dashboard. Slip a ring onto the finished pin, drill a hole into the dasboard, insert the unit and fix it with super glue. toggle switches (as on the F dashboard): Use a piece of bright wire of an appropriate diameter (for 1/25 usually 0.4mm should work). With a plier with smooth jaws press one end flat. Cut both ends to the desired length. As described above when making chrome bezels use bright wire to make rings with an inside diameter slightly bigger than the diameter of the piece of wire. Slip a ring onto the finished piece of wire, drill a hole into the dasboard, insert the unit and fix it with super glue. Bend the rocker switch up or down.
Your pictures look very promising but unfortunately clicking the thumbnails opens only the same small thumbnails a second time. If you can't solve the problem on Fotki you could try Photobucket. I never had any problems there.
Thanks for the response. After re-reading the tutorial I would like to point out that this technique turned out to be very useful on my current diecast car project too. When rebuilding diecast models their off-the-shelf glass parts are often too poor to be used again. Gluing new windows to metal surfaces with sufficient adhesion and without visible glue is particularly difficult or even impossible. The technique worked here perfectly.
As mentioned I built the model almost 30 years ago, so I don't really remember. I can only say that I use almost exclusively Humbrol metallics for decades. Therefore it is very likely that I used a mixture of Humbrol enamels here too.
My tutorial about making wire wheels can be found here: Making real wire wheels in all scales http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=77554
Reducing the width of the wide Italeri tyres is possible because they are massive, i. e. they are not hollow, and not too flexible. After slipping a tyre onto a fitting piece of tube I remove an appropriate radial section by cutting with a sharp #11 blade down to the tube in two longitudinal grooves. I discard the removed section and glue the remaining tyre halves together. After working carefully the glue seam is hidden in a groove. If you remove the radial section off-center the glue seam is off-center too. I mount the tire with the glue seam on the inside in order to hide it deep in the wheel well.