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Plastheniker

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    Oops, That page can't be found.

    in How To Use This Board

    Posted

    Since January 20 it is still impossible to post more than 2 or 3 sentences. JPGs are no problem.

     

    My latest attempt today:

     

    Laptop HP Windows 11

    Firefox

    21:15 CET

    Under Glass Cars

    Attempted reply in topic "1963 Alfa Romeo Giulia Tubolare Zagato (“TZ“) Road Car"

    Oops, That page can't be found.

    in How To Use This Board

    Posted · Edited by Plastheniker

    I am trying to start a new topic for appr. 8 hours (Under Glass / Cars).

    Everything works as usual until I click the Submit Topic button. Then the Oops! That page can#t be found ...appears.

    Logging in and out several times doesn't help, switching to other browsers either..

    1956 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud II – The Abysmal Minicraft Kit Reworked

    in Model Cars

    Posted

     

    Thanks for the response!

     

     

    22 hours ago, Matt Bacon said:

    Oh my word! That’s the best built one of those I’ve ever seen or am likely to see. Though I think it’s more a fantastic model “inspired by” the kit rather than built from it… Well done indeed. I do find it odd that despite well over a century of being “the best cars in the world”, as far as I’m aware that kit and the SE Finecast Silver Ghost are the only 1/24 Rolls Royce kits (unless you count the very fine rendition of the Merlin in Airfix’s Spitfire, Hurricane and Mustang superkits…)

    best,

    M.

     

    Not forgetting two rather simple Phantom kits by Mongram from the sixties(?) and the excellent but inexpensive Phantom II (Maharaja's delight) that seems to be still available.

     

     

    20 hours ago, lordairgtar said:

    You made yours very well. How did you deal with the under hood blob of an engine? I looked everywhere for a 3D print of the proper engine but no luck. I have decided to make better head lights too. Yours look great. For a better body, locate the first issue of this under the Hubley brand. Molded in light blue and seem a tiny bit crisper. The later ones seemed to be very misaligned at the front edge of the door and it's transition to the hood atrea. I will probably rob one of my early Monogram kits for the Spirit Of Ecstasy ornament as those are closer to scale. I lengthened my body 1/4 inch in the middle of the rear doors to create the long wheelbase version and redoing the glass trim as the rear doors of the long version have wing windows at the rear of the rear doors.

    Mostly I build my models curbside with bonnets glued shut because I want them fit and sit as perfectly as possible. Therefore the ridiculous one-piece engine of the Minicraft kit was no problem for me. I am sure that I drilled out the kit fog lamps, but I can't remember if I drilled out the headlights, too, or if if I replaced them. I took the mascot from Italeri's Phantom II kit.

    1956 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud II – The Abysmal Minicraft Kit Reworked

    in Model Cars

    Posted

    The good about this kit is that all dimensions of the body are correct and that the present kit manufacturer is honest enough to show a photograph of the model on the box cover (even if it is obviously retouched.).

     

    The rest is disastrous even if you consider that the kit dates back to 1960. After more than 60 years of modeling this was one of the crudest kits I have ever encountered.

    • Already the box cover showed two striking shortcomings: the wheels were way too small (rather 1/32), in contrast the radiator mascot was way too big (appr. 1/16). Built with the kit wheels the model would resemble a dachshund – a long body on very short legs.

    • Casting quality was terrible. F.e. the lateral chrome mouldings disappeared completely on both sides near the windscreen, and I had to make a new radiator mask because the kit part had numberless surface irregularities.

    • Calling fit poor would be euphemistic. There were huge and varying gaps between the main body part and the two halves of the bonnet as well as the boot lid. Fortunately there were no opening doors, rescribing all door gaps was sufficient. The shape of the wheel wells had not much to do with the shape of the fenders.

    • The interior was really unique: It consisted of only 3 parts, namely steering wheel, dashboard and all the rest (floor, door panels,front/rear seats and rear window shelf) cast as one big single part. For the first time I saw that there were no gaps between seats and door panels. Any interior details or instrument decals? Forget it!

    • No glass parts for headlights, foglamps, taillights, moulded wipers and doorhandles, no mirrors, no boot lid handle, botched windshield area, omitted chrome moulding on the lower edge of the body, no license plate carriers, no decals and …..

     

    The list could be continued endlessly.

    The kit consisted of appr. 30 parts, 19 of these 30 parts were unusable and discarded.

     

    Somewhere in the forum I saw a topic “Are model kits toys?“. IMO this one is.

    It is no kit as such. I suppose that it was designed originally as an inexpensive toy meant to be assembled by children easily within one or two hours.

     

    RR001250-vi.jpg
    RR002250-vi.jpg
    RR003250-vi.jpg
    RR004250-vi.jpg
    RR005250-vi.jpg
    RR6251-vi.jpg

     

     

    • Like 13

    Scratch built 1952 Büssing D3U – 6x4 double-decker bus of the Berlin Transport Authority BVG

    in All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures

    Posted

    Thanks for the response!

     

    There are not many 1/24 scratch built buses on the web (if there are any at all), not to speak of double-decker buses.

     

    The reason may be that such a project presents three problems that can hardly be solved simultaneously.

    • Since such a model is almost 20“ long and 7“ high it must have sufficient torsional rigidity but without stabilizing reinforcements in the (visible) interior. The numerous door and window openings increase the lack of stability even more

    • For a realistic model only thin sheet can be used. Thick sheet would show at the door and window openings. Thick sheet, however, would be actually indispensable for enough stability.

    • For making things even worse only few (stabilizing) sub-assemblies can be glued in place while building because the whole interior must remain accessible for final painting and for applying BMF.

     

    Admiittedly such a project requires some modelling skills but even more important is planning virtually each and every step in advance  b e f o r e  starting the project. Otherwise a failure is bound to occur.

     

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