When I search particular categories, some mass-sellers regularly use repeated words for their items. What I do is put a minus sign right in front of the repeated word, and that usually wipes out that seller. Say for example if some guy is selling hundreds of parts made of brass, which I currently have no need for, he gets screened out when I just have the word -brass in the Parts category search window.
Stay tuned for a small W.I.P. thread on it in the near future. I see the 'artistic goal' of what the original builder had in mind, it just begs for better craftsmanship and specific materials to carry it through to being a completed concept.
Rancheros are just so cute, ya can't let 'em go unloved. This one has been languishing in ebay's Automotive Vintage section for a month or two, and the latest price drop was too tempting to ignore. Entertaining concept going on with it, but it needs a bit of refinement and realistic color to the interior ....
Thanks for the kind words. Meanwhile .... The Tijuana Green Hornet Taxi Always laughed at that overall old Tom Daniel design, but never cared much for the front end treatment. If you swapped that part out for the Monogram Green Hornet, you could go with a somewhat de-tuned comic element with the Hornet rear wheels & tires, along with a bit of a chop to the roof and a green paint job. (image credits: Peter Hirschberg 3D Tijuana taxi rendering & Tom Geiger's image-reversed Green Hornet, mashed by me into what you see here)
I wouldn't sell one of my models, either, unless someone really made it worth my while, such that I could afford to take time off what I'm currently bogged down with, to remake what I just sold. But now let's examine the flip side here. Suppose I just won the lottery, and happened to see one of your models that I really want, which I don't otherwise feel like duplicating on my own. If you won't sell me the original, how much do you want for an exact duplicate? Assuming you have to take time off from work to work for me, what wage do you want, combined with all the parts, paint & extras that go into creating the duplicate? And what premium is it going to cost me for you to sign it as a "J Patton"? As I implied at a similar prior thread, put all that cost together for a model that ought to place no worse than 2nd or so in its category (other than a pure box-stock, perhaps) at a major national contest, and you are looking at a top-flight model costing a grand or two.
One other option, if you rather not do all that scratchbuilding & kit piece gathering, is to find one of the Memory Lane toy versions. Steeply priced on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Santa-Claus-Comin-Town-Vehicle/dp/B0001WUZM0 , but I got mine several years ago via an ebay sale for around $30. If I was to guess, it looks like maybe 1:12 scale. It's now part of my Christmas decorations every year, I loved that show when I was a kid.
Well, got a quick response to my email from Mark Gustavson, which he asked me to repeat verbatim below while he is in the process of getting his old login info in order to respond directly: Hi Jack! Wow, I can't believe you're on the Forum. Please note that I did NOT receive your e-mail note about your great vintage model! Please e-mail me directly at the addy below. The Museum's Clone the Past program is alive and well -- we are cloning the most important models in the history of our hobby. Noted builder John Teresi did an incredible job replicating the "Herndon Special": it was presented at the Museum seminar at GSL-XXVI in 2015 (go here for details on GSL: http://www.gslchampionship.org/ ). Here's a link to the Clone the Past Museum program (a new website is pending so forgive the dated one still online): http://themodelcarmuseum.org/Programs/Clone/clone.html I'm presently writing the 2016 Museum newsletter (go here to see older issues: http://themodelcarmuseum.org/information/Publications/publications.html I would like to interview you and get photos of your models. Please e--mail at the addy below, and we'll talk.
Sorry again that your earlier attempts to contact me/the Museum didn't work out for you. Welcome to the Forum! Wow -- it's great that you're still into building. Thanks for your enormous contributions to the model car hobby!
Cheers, Mark S. Gustavson Founder, International Model Car Builders Museum firstname.lastname@example.org
Been able to exchange a few emails with the main guy at the Museum, so I gave it a shot at alerting him to this thread. Might do the trick for getting some communication going. Welcome back to this part of the hobby. Hope you can find a way to attend the next GSL contest, which features visits for attendees to the Museum. Part of that attraction will be (if I have it right) the public re-introduction of one of the co-winning models from the '64 Revell-Pactra contest. The other co-winning model is already on display there.
I wire-peg mirrors and other small items when I attach 'em to my models. Much more resistant to falling off, then. I've not gone to this length yet, but a person could construct some kind of protective 'box-shape surrounding' thing out of corrugated cardboard that could have post-it note material glued to the underside perimeter of such structures, so that they could be safely temporarily stuck to the model. But what has worked for me is miles of toilet tissue wrapped around the model like what Wayne Swayze suggests, within a box surrounded by packing material that is inside of another box. One more thing, make sure the inner box at least is crush-resistant. One can do that even with a regular model kit box, just take a large corrugated cardboard sheet and cut two layers of rectangles matching the insides of the kit box -- the key is is that one layer has the corrugations going in one direction, and the second layer is going 90° to the first layer. Cut a cardboard paper towel dowel down to the inner height of the box, and you now have an additional piece preventing the top from caving in. You probably can't park a car on such a reinforced box, but it might stand a far better chance of surviving whatever football practice it gets used for at the delivery facility.
Usually I can find photos of what I'm thinking in Google image searches, but it seems to let me down this time, so I just made my own - take Rob Shmit's mild custom seen in the Favorite Caddy thread and lose a good chunk of the middle. But in order to make it look right, instead of moving the rear wheels forward along with the body, they'd look more factory-ish if they ended up centered within the 'moved-forward' section.
Achieving the allusive 'show quality model' level is basically building something that - if magically expanded to 1:1 size - could be mistaken for being a fully functional vehicle. So, imagine using so-so quality black thread for plug wires, and blowing those up to 1:1 size. An ordinary person might then say, "Man, the insulation on those wires sure is hairy." Or for an outside door lock, "Wow, this thing isn't even round, it doesn't look shiny like stainless steel, and there is no slot to put a key in." That's the level of detail a person can get carried away with. Btw, the door locks on my avatar's 911 woody wagon are bits of aluminum paper clip wire, chucked into my motor tool and polished flat and into perfect circles, with a vertical slot scribed into them with an xacto blade. Beats a dot of silver paint, and it wasn't especially hard to do. Plus, as a wire where you just see the ends, they also serve as pegs to hold the handles much better to the sides of the car.
One more, sorta, but for me it's just the first 1 minute 40 seconds of Sylvester Stallone's "Over the Top", since the road he's on (in the not super bright sunshine scenes) is from bits of my favorite Colorado summer vacation road north of Durango to Ouray. Entertaining Autocar he has.