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Marc Weller

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About Marc Weller

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    Marc Weller

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  1. I know it's been awhile. I haven't bailed on this project, but I've made some major changes. The more I looked at that graphic the more I thought "fish eggs". I dunno. I like caviar on a cracker but not on a '55 Nomad. The solution (no pun intended) was a brake fluid bath and starting all over. I've been watching a ton of YouTube videos about Createx products and I have been wanting to go water based if, for no other reason, the health benefits. So here's my first attempt at a water based custom paint job. I used all Createx water based products. White Sealer Base, Pearlized White, Candy20 purple mixed with Balancing Clear, and finally, ULVS clear. I pretty much loved everything but the ULVS and I'll probably head back to 2K for my next project. I'm just going to be super careful about safety precautions. P.S. foiling this thing was too much work and I'm not done!!! Need to pick my next project with that in mind !!!
  2. Time to get back to this one. I found this stash of Predicta parts I scored at some swap meet 25 years ago, two complete Predictas minus bubble tops. I love the Predicta wheels and tires and I'll use them on future projects but the 1/24th scale Hemi is a perfect choice for my '36 and I'll use it now. I won't need to mess with ignition wires since they are concealed on this particular Hemi variant, a major bonus. Already fabbed motor mounts. No idea why that old Monogram tool has a notch in the firewall. I'm gonna go with a permanently attached hood and open sides so I'm not going to bother fixing it. Gonna need to figure out a way to provide clearance for the fan/pulley assembly. Probably going to grind the boss off of the front of the motor and notch the crossmember. I want to keep the front end as low as possible so I need to keep the existing crossmember.
  3. Which clear? it really sparkles !! The foil is awesome as well.
  4. This one is done. All kinds of fit issues in final assembly. Blame it on builder incompetence, it’s a great kit and the Flintstone body is terrific. I’ll take some good pictures later to post under glass.
  5. You might think about shooting some dullcoat then buffing it with one of those fabric softener sheets you throw in the dryer. I’ve had good luck with that technique. BTW that dash looks awesome.
  6. David was correct. The firewall relief was not adequate to clear the engine location. In fact, trying to use the stock Cadillac mounting points was a stupid idea which I remedied by fabricating new forward mounts and a new transmission mount bringing the engine forward to a more reasonable location The interior is going to be nearly invisible between the chop and the blue tinted glass so I didn't get too carried away. Just some detail painting and a shifter fabbed from some stainless tubing. The V butted windshields turned out way better than I expected. Ignore that shmutz on the passenger side. Just some lens cleaner I neglected to dry. Just need to finish the exhaust system, add shocks, mount wheels, and liberally dust the undercarraige and she'll be ready for the showcase.
  7. I haven’t been goofing off, just working very slowly! The Cad mill is done no thanks to the instruction sheet which has the exhaust manifolds reversed and neglects to show any distributor (the kit has a nice distributor BTW). I hope Cadillacs have the same firing order as SBCs or this thing is going to have a terrible misfire. Used the Molotow to detail paint the dash and Micro-Scale Krystal Klear for the gauge covers. I painted the seat with flat black enamel and then, after a week, burnished the surface with my finger tip after a trip to Popeyes. Yeah it’s gross but what a great technique. That’s all for now.
  8. Hahahaha ! I’ll be switching to acrylic since Pegasus just informed me that Model Master is no more ! I already used my last drop of Model Master dust and Tamiya buff is really close. I’ve never had a problem with the enamel failing to dry on tires but I’m shooting it very dry and the tire is spinning so very little paint is being applied. As for the Floquil I similarly have never had a problem. Floquil rust is semi transparent and it is absolutely perfect for “aging” white walls. I don’t know what I’m gonna do when I run out. They are already getting 18 bucks a bottle on eBay !! I love that picture Kurt posted. Tomorrow morning I’m going to Dullcoat the grille and do a fine stippling with rust. I kept blowing output seals on my M-22 until a transmission guy told me my driveshaft was too long !! I would have never figured that out on my own !!
  9. Thanks guys. Hoping to get more work done on it this week. Appreciate the comments.
  10. It's kind of subtle but I have a lot of time in weathering these wheels and tires. I used a chipping technique on the wheels that utilized a Testors rust base coat, a few dabs of white glue in the areas to be chipped, followed by Testors orange and, finally, Dullcoat. I used a wash of Tamiya flat black after painting the lug nuts, bearing caps (front) and axle ends (rear). The thin front white walls in front were created with a circle template and a gel pen. The rears are the inserts that come with the monogram tires. Each tire was mounted on my Dremel and, while spinning at low speed, dusted on the tread and sidewall surfaces with Testers dust enamel. The whitewalls were aged by airbrushing Floquil rust on the spinning tires . A lot of work but worth it. The bed was similarly chipped using the white glue technique utilized for the wheels. There are so many cool YouTube videos about weathering techniques. I spend hours watching these and trying them out at my bench. I Bare Metal Foiled the bed rails then applied Dullcoat. I used a white gel pen to letter the rear gate. Once this thing is done I'm going to load the bed with rusty flathead parts.
  11. Great question about bed floor. They are chromed on my 1:1 truck. I’ll probably go with BMF then dullcoat and maybe mist some rust enamel from my airbrush. I have a bit of work left on the firewall before painting. Thanks for looking!
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