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About DiscoRover007

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    MCM Avid Poster

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Full Name
    James Rossman

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  1. After the body is prepped I wash it with cold water and blow it off with compressed air with a can or airbrush. Then I use Tamiya's anti static brush and wipe every crevice. This brush is used to remove dust off finished models and but it is great for paint prep also and has been a huge factor for me. I also spray my booth down with water to trap particles and I also spray the air and the floor where I'm working to trap more potential particles. I also spray my arms with water and even a couple light sprays to my own hair to keep it from falling. Basically spray down anything you could imagine that would cause dust. This has worked pretty well for me and usually eliminates 90% percent of dust.
  2. Tamiya Mica Red Base?

    I used Tamiya mica red over gloss black and then clear coated with tamiya clear red. Then cleared with TS-13
  3. 1/24 Tamiya Toyota Supra

    NIce job man! very clean work
  4. I've had the same reaction with WLC before. It has nothing to do with your acrylic base coat. The bubbles happen when you spray too close or spray too much clear at one time. It causes it to pool and bubble up. Just use lighter coats and you should be fine. I would recommend a switch to lacquer for the basecoat though just to have a tougher finish. Duplicolor paints have their own issues also though.
  5. Tamiya Porcshe 959 1:24

    The aclad might have a property to it that attracts dust. One thing Ive done recently is to use Tamiya's static brush to use just before painting. It wipes off dust and eliminates the static charge so you are less likely to get imperfections. It's meant to dust off displays models but it works well for painting too.
  6. Re-engineering Monograms Lotus Esprit...new update!

    Impressive Dan. You’re building her up the right way.
  7. Honda NSX

    Looking great man
  8. Testors Citrus Yellow metallic looks pretty close
  9. Most beautiful cars of all time

    The Ferrari 550 Maranello. Simply perfection.
  10. Aoshima instructions question

    I have a few aoshima kits and find this confusing also. There is a painting guide but it is sometimes unclear. I would refer to reference photos to be sure.
  11. Testors Automotive Paints

    Testors missed the mark with their auto lacquers. The clear coat is great but most of the metallic colors do not have a good in scale look save for maybe the GTS Blue Pearl color. I absolutely lose testors metalizer paints though and hope they stick around.
  12. 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 302

    Sweet man looking forward to this one. This is the Revell reissue right with the new front bumper?
  13. Tamiya acrylic paint ?????

    You can use water and rubbing alcohol in a pinch. But you might end up with flatter finishes and rougher texture. I would probably get a hold of some Tamiya thinner.
  14. Ferrari 275 GTB

    Holy cow man. Amazing
  15. Hey guys so I was curious to see if anyone here had methods to removing dust in their paint when using metallic/pearl colors? I always clear coat my paints. I've got a pretty good system in place to keep dust out of my paint but of course you get that one speck every now an again. I find its much easier to sand and buff these out with solid colors. However the difficulty comes with metallic colors. I have one example on my bench where I successfully avoided dust in the color coats of paint. However after the second clear coat I discovered a small hair sitting in the paint. When this has happened in the past I haven't been able to buff these errors out. It seems that A. You sand too much and discolor the base coat. Or B. You sand it out but there is still a "ghost" of the error in the paint even when you polish. Or C. You sand the error deeper into the paint So the solution end up being a small respray and re clear of those areas. However the issue with that is you risk trapping more dust in the respray and discoloration of the metallic color as it is now on top of a clear, on top of a base coat which may change it's depth and reflection. I wanted to ask you gentlemen here what you usually do in these cases. I will say I haven't let a body fully cure with these errors before and tried to sand it out. By fully cure I mean a few weeks. I use TS lacquers and will typically wait a few days or a week before attempting to sand things out. However I wonder if I let the body harden over a few weeks for example, if just maybe the underlying layers of clear will keep the dust suspended in which I could sand it out without messing with the base color.