DiscoRover007

Good luck with it. If you do happen to get creases you might be able to just airbrush some ts-13 or primer over those parts and then sand it smooth for paint.

How bad is it? Maybe you can tape off the bonnet and touch it up with an airbrush?

I think you could save some money by skipping the carbon decals on the body and maybe just try to simulate the pattern bleed through instead. You could paint the body yellow and then using a type of mesh(maybe nylon, they have little bags you can by and take apart at hobby lobby) and put that over the body and then spray light coats of yellow over that with an airbrush. Then remove the mesh and do one more wetcoat. The texture should probably still show through. Just a thought.

The guy on the scale modeling channel uses pledge. I might try it on a spare piece and see how it looks. My concern there is the gloss shining through the flocking

Yes I use this method. It usually takes two coats. Spray, then flock, empty the tub and inspect, then spray again and flock once more. Any errors after that can be patched with the white glue method. The spray adhesive works really well to pack as much of the material as possible. It looks pretty realistic. Granted you need to make sure you mask the areas you don't want sprayed well.

I usually just wait until it’s a sunny day with less humidity. Duplicolor paints are super sensitive to humidity. Tamiyas can handle it a little better. You can usually spray outside and bring the body inside to cure without it fogging if you do it quick enough. But then you risk debris hitting the model.

You definitely want to ditch the testors enamel silver. Go for Tamiya Mica Silver or Gloss Aluminum for darker silvers. Vallejo has actually released an aerosol version of their silver. I ordered a can to see how close the scale of flake is. Will let you know how that goes.

Wow looks very 288 GTO and also a Ford GT copy

Nice job man. What paint did you use for the silver? I've found that you can get better results with mica and metallic colors by color sanding your second to last coat of paint before clear coating it. You'll get the particles to lay down much smoother.

Tamiya putty works really great. I like their much better than Testors or Bondo but for more dense and sturdier fixes I also use two part milliput

I actually just found out that Vallejo has come out with Acrylic spray paint. So i might give those a shot. They have, black, gunmetal, and a gloss clear coat. Sounds like exactly what I could use.

Hey guys just wanted to get some people to chime in on the difference between these? My understanding is that Acrylic Poly is a much more durable finish and dries quicker. Would it still be compatible with Vallejo's regular thinner? What I'm looking to do is to find a suitable acrylic clear for carbon fiber decals. I have a few models that don't have aftermarket carbon decal template support. So my plan is to use SMS clear carbon decals over a vallejo metallic gunmetal coat. Then clear coat that with one of these products. Once cured I'll mask those areas and respray the interior tub my color of choice. I use vallejo air paints religiously for interior paints now and I figure all of these in brand paints would be compatible. I've found that X-22 dissolves vallejo and I don't trust the runny nature of Future Floor Wax. So for this sort of application would i be better off with the regular acrylic gloss varnish or the tougher acrylic polyurethane ? Secondly do these paints actually gloss well and hold a shine? Comparable to a future or enamel finish? I assume they dont gloss as well as Lacquer

My guess is that this is maybe a touring package? The sunroof seems like it’s more for cruisers than all out street racing.

I think they would find success with the untapped truck/SUV market. Tacoma’s, newer Pajeros, Land Rovers, a 4 Runner would be great.

Tamiya, followed closely by Aoshima. Subject matter is the most important thing obviously but right after that I have to consider the accuracy of the mold and how many mistakes I have to fix which with Tamiya and Aoshima as of late are very few.