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DiscoRover007

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    135
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About DiscoRover007

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Full Name
    James Rossman

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1,401 profile views
  1. Which Countach is the better kit?

    After having both kits I would definitely argue that the Aoshima kit is superior. It is not as minutely detailed at the Fujimi kit but it is a better total package in my opinion. It is much better in terms of engineering and build quality. Aoshima knocked it out of the park. Good blend of detail and easy/well engineered assembly. It is a great example of a model that builds perfectly well as a box stock piece but can be detailed as much as you want. Very Tamiya 360 Modena like in my opinion. Fujimi Enthusiast kits are famous for their amount of detail. But it is also a very dated kit. Flimsy, warped and delicate plastic. You have to be very careful with test fitting and making sure parts line up right.
  2. Sometimes mixing a dark grey with your black paint for the interior looks nice. Especially if you offset that with a black flocking or vice Vera.
  3. Ferrari 365GTS/4 Daytona Spyder

    Why not use something like Testors one coat ultra gloss? That should be readily available at your LHS.
  4. Tamiya BMW Z3

    Hi all. I picked up a Tamiya BMW z3 kit. I primarily bought this to keep my skills fresh. I also wanted an opportunity to master Tamiya’s TS-17 gloss aluminum. And if it turned out alright I figure I would always have example to reference from for future builds. I have always had problems using the paint in the past. However I feel like I have finally figured it out. I started using the same techniques I use on color coats and TS mica paints and it seems to have done the trick. I prepped the body with Tamiya white primer. I used several coats and wet sanded the primer many times with micro mesh polishing cloths. All the way up to 4000-6000. When I started laying down the TS-17 I only used mist coats from the spray can that I let sit in warm water for several minutes beforehand. I made sure to achieve full coverage in mists coats only first. Then I laid down one medium wet coat. I let this dry for about 2-3 days and I then color sanded the body with micro mesh cloths. Making sure even out areas where the silver did not appear as fine as others. I then used a tack cloth and then Tamiya’s static dust removal brush before laying down 1-2 heavy wet coats. Once I could confirm there was no noticeable debris in the paint I laid down a few light coats of TS-13 clear to seal the paint. I then laid down a final clear coat a few days later. I hated the wheels that came with the kit. Luckily I had a set of 18 inch fujimi bbs wheels that I have been waiting to use for a while. I painted them MM Aluminum metalizer and then used the metalizer sealer. To make them fit i grinded out the female fittings inside the wheel with a dremel tool. I then cut some plastic tubing to fit. It was slightly thinner than the Tamiya male fittings on the stock wheels. So I used Tamiya tape and gradually added enough width until they would fit snug in the brake. I then sealed the tape with CA glue before installing.Tires are from a first gen Tamiya NSX. Underside was painted TS-17 and lightly cleared. Since there was no motor in this kit I figured it would be worth detailing this portion as much as I could. I used a combination of Vallejo paints, black, metal gold, gunmetal, air gunmetal, air silver and Tamiya weathering powders. I also used oil paints as a wash. Overall I am quite pleased with the progress so far. I am also growing quite fond of this car the more I look at it. It’s a very timeless and beautiful design. I wouldn’t mind owning one of these someday. The interior will be black. I need to replace the driver seat as it is ruined. Given how the paint has come out I will probably use TS-17 for my silver paint from now on. Considering the ease of use from a spray can it is quite hard to beat the results. Comments welcome thanks for looking! Oh and the tape is in preparation to paint the window rubbers.
  5. Tamiya BMW Z3 Driver Seat

    Hey guys. Currently building this kit and I ended up sabotaging the driver seat when i tried to drill into it to add seat belts. Was wondering if anyone had a spare they could part with?
  6. Tamiya McLaren Mercedes SLR 722

    Looks great btw.
  7. Tamiya McLaren Mercedes SLR 722

    Which clear did you apply? i was going to suggest a light mist coat with the pearl clear and then top that with TS-13.
  8. Fujiya 13-degree Super-Sharp Sprue Cutter

    I’ve always used nail clippers instead of those
  9. 911 GT1

    Great job. What clear did you use for the decals? I have this kit as well. Trying to make the street version. Only thing that is bothering me about is that the rear bumper should actually be blended into the hood piece like on the real car. The real panel line is just above the taillight. Would take a good amount of work to make it look right.
  10. Very beautiful and clean build
  11. Ferrari 365GTS/4 Daytona Spyder

    I’m working on the curbside version myself right now. Trying to putty and blend the rear hood section together at the moment since it is actually one piece on the real car.
  12. Show us your Engines - Post Dedicated to the Engine

    Have to repaint the body for this kit but the engine and interior is basically complete. Here’s how she looks. Added ignition cables and wiring, battery cables and hose clamps. Engine paint is MM aluminum metalizer. Valve cover was masked and sprayed MM gunmetal metalizer. This is the 1993 Tamiya Supra kit.
  13. Revel Ford GT Le Mans 2016

    I wonder if they’ll make a street version
  14. Tamiya Supra Body (1993)

    Hey guys was just wondering if anyone had a scrapper Supra kit that they would be willing to part with the body? I am also in need of a good if possible. I’m making a fleet of these cars with different colors.
  15. Nicely done. Probably one of the best models I’ve ever seen. Especially considering the modifications.