DiscoRover007

Tamiya putty works really great. I like their much better than Testors or Bondo but for more dense and sturdier fixes I also use two part milliput

I actually just found out that Vallejo has come out with Acrylic spray paint. So i might give those a shot. They have, black, gunmetal, and a gloss clear coat. Sounds like exactly what I could use.

Hey guys just wanted to get some people to chime in on the difference between these? My understanding is that Acrylic Poly is a much more durable finish and dries quicker. Would it still be compatible with Vallejo's regular thinner? What I'm looking to do is to find a suitable acrylic clear for carbon fiber decals. I have a few models that don't have aftermarket carbon decal template support. So my plan is to use SMS clear carbon decals over a vallejo metallic gunmetal coat. Then clear coat that with one of these products. Once cured I'll mask those areas and respray the interior tub my color of choice. I use vallejo air paints religiously for interior paints now and I figure all of these in brand paints would be compatible. I've found that X-22 dissolves vallejo and I don't trust the runny nature of Future Floor Wax. So for this sort of application would i be better off with the regular acrylic gloss varnish or the tougher acrylic polyurethane ? Secondly do these paints actually gloss well and hold a shine? Comparable to a future or enamel finish? I assume they dont gloss as well as Lacquer

My guess is that this is maybe a touring package? The sunroof seems like it’s more for cruisers than all out street racing.

I think they would find success with the untapped truck/SUV market. Tacoma’s, newer Pajeros, Land Rovers, a 4 Runner would be great.

Tamiya, followed closely by Aoshima. Subject matter is the most important thing obviously but right after that I have to consider the accuracy of the mold and how many mistakes I have to fix which with Tamiya and Aoshima as of late are very few.

So is the main issue with this kit now that the rear quarter windows are not the correct shape? Simple sanding and clear plastic the fix?

I'd use a spray bottle full of water and just spray the inside of your booth a few minutes before spraying. Also spray the floor and anywhere you could imagine kicking up dust, maybe even your pants or arms. I'd also wash the body in cold water and then use compressed air from the airbrush to dry it clean. When dry use a tack cloth or damp paper towel wipe any last seen bits of dust. This has worked very well for me and I'd say has eliminated dust 95% of the time.

If Tamiya made a 1/24 version full detail Mustang I would be ecstatic. People would pay a premium for that. It wouldn’t necessarily have to be the newest model either. The Mustang has deserved Tamiya(Even Aoshima) quality for a long time in 1/24(not 1/25) They could even go the RX-7 R1/ RX-7 Efini route

This build is making want to buy one of these kits. The gallardo has aged beautifully and was a design ahead of its time. Any glaring flaws on this kit? Extra panel lines or anything ?

Personally I mask the area and then use spray adhesive with flocking. I don't find embossing powder to be more realistic. But that's just my 2 cents.

Use some kind of box or booth to spray in. Spray the entire area with water in a spray bottle. Also spray your floor and your pants if you dont mind. Basically any area you could imagine kicking up dust. For the body, wash it with water then use your airbrush or a an of duster to remove the water droplets. Then use a tack cloth to wipe anything dust that may remain. Spray the body with another pass with compressed air before painting.

Good kit. Love this car. Unfortunately the interior is pretty inaccurate.

Interesting insight there. Have you ever tried gloss sluminum as a base and then mica silver on top of that? Never really though to use the mica paints as more of an overcoat than the first stage of paint. I typically do use white primer with those paints though.

Hey guys so this will be hard question to answer but i'll give it a shot. Ive used TS sprays for years and they are by far my method of choice for painting bodies. What I'm curious about is their TS- Mica Silver Paint. I'm one of the types that puts a lot of value into sticking to the color recommendations of the Tamiya painting instructions. I like sticking to factory body colors for realism. I know that this is just another way for Tamiya to sell their products. However how much research goes into the matching of Tamiya paints to the actual car paints on new kits? Reason being is that I love to use their TS-17 Gloss Aluminum as it is a classic german silver. I also use their Mica Silver. The difference between these paints is that the Mica is a little brighter and has more sparkle to it. But I have heard rumours that TS-76(Mica Silver) was actually developed to be an improvement on Gloss Aluminum. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Or it simply an addition to the color line? I know some people find TS-17 more difficult to use and I can see that argument but you can still get a great in scale silver paint job with it. What's funny is that I look at some of my favorite kits of the early 90's like the NSX for example. The instructions will tell you that TS-17 is their recommendation for Sebring Silver of the real car. But looking at the photos of these vehicles I think you could say TS-76 is a better match. However this is an observation in hindsight as some of these model kits were made with the painting guides before new paints developed such as Mica Silver. So I'm being really nit picky and this is a niche question. But does anyone have any insight into how these painting guides are developed and is it true that Mica Silver was meant to replace or upgrade their Gloss Aluminum?