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Evil72gto

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    19
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About Evil72gto

  • Rank
    MCM Member
  • Birthday 04/10/1978

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Tyngsboro Mass
  • Full Name
    Brian Connell

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Revell

    That kit is going to be $24.95 retail. & it's supposed to be in again by early October.
  2. Revell

    I originally posted it in "on the work bench" to hopefully get as many EYEBALLS on it as possible before it was moved to this section. & that is where I alway stop first when I come on here.
  3. Revell

    Prices are still the same no price increase yet.!!! I got a list of the first 50 kits that will be issued as well. For those of us who didn't get the GMC Big Game truck or the Ice Patrol Jeep Honcho those are 2 of the kits that will be out in October. & the Pro Mod Camaro should be in on 1 of the first shipments.
  4. Revell

    Ok so I work for a hobby shop in Massachusetts and I just got a fax copy of an email that was sent to 1 of my distributors from Revell. They are back with a new company here in the US. There new warehouse is located outside of Chicago. & there is product on the water on its way to the new warehouse & they are trying to have stuff available by September - October time frame & quantities will be limited. So be patient.
  5. Thanks to all who have looked & commented! More to come very soon.
  6. New upper and lower control arm's for the drivers side.
  7. I was not happy with the wheel spindles from the corvette kit I was using!! So I am now using the front spindles from the Revell 41 Willys kit that I am modifying to look more realistic than what they supply in the kit. I will make extensions where the ball joints would be so I can get it to the ride hight I want. The wheel spindle on the right is the stock kit part & the left 1 is shaved down to the profile I want.
  8. I scratch built the door panels & used parts of the mustang door panels. I also removed the gas tank from behind the seat. & cut the headrest off the mustang seats & added seat belt hardware & controls for the seats. More updates to come.
  9. Made new upper & lower control arm's. & made the air tank & mount for the air tank & compressors.
  10. Started work on the new Moebius/Modelking 1969 F100 the day it hit the store. I am kit bashing it with the 2006 Mustang GT H kit from revell. I am using the motor , trans & seats from the Mustang kit as well as part of the door panels. The door panels are other wise scratch built using evergreen sheet stock. It has some Corvette parts from a revell kit as well but only 5. At the moment I am using the upper & lower control arm's from the C5 R kit (this setup may change) & the master cylinder from another corvette kit. I have modified the frame & the suspension to add airbags front & rear. It sites on the frame!!! It has a custom Ford 9 inch out back. Rear roll pan made from evergreen stock. It will have a 4 link in the rear that will be made from evergreen rod. The bridge is made from evergreen stock as well. I cut the gas tank out of the cab & filled the hole with evergreen sheet stock. I have shaved the fire wall & cut a hole for the radiator to mount in. The front bumper will be left off & I filled in the holes for the front bumper with evergreen. Any questions about the build just ask.
  11. Testors bottle paint issues

    There is a big differences between the testors square bottles and MM according to testors!!. ( Testors supposedly grinds the resin for the MM paints finer than there standard square bottles. ) & If you paint like I do by using the paint that is in the lid of the jar after you have mixed them & then use there standard brush cleaner to thin the paint that has thickened up in the lid while you are painting & then when you have finished painting you put the lid back on the jar with that thinned out paint it contaminates the paint in the jar over many times of doing this causing the paint to turn into a rubbery mess about 1/2 way through a jar. ( Testors has formulated there paint in such a way that unless you use there airbrush thinner in there paints they will go bad before you use it all. ) I will only use there air brush thinner for any & all brush painting & thinning in the lid of the jar when I use MM or there small bottles. There airbrush thinner is more expensive than there brush cleaner so I buy the big red can that is a full 8oz @ $9.98 instead or the smaller glass jar that is only 1 & 3/4oz @ $6.20. & I will put the thinner in a smaller jar or clean out an old empty paint or thinner bottle for brush cleaning & thinning. For years I was only getting through about 1/2 a jar of all my MM paints before they turned to rubber in the jar because I was just using there brush cleaner in the lid of the paint jar. Not that it matters much but I have worked in a LHS for the last 15 years (Yes dream job) & have had this as a complaint from many customers over the years. & testors was sold to RPM corporation 6 years ago or more and they have changed the formula for all there paint a few times over the years. I hope this helps everyone who reads this.
  12. You can try what I did to solve that problem. Gloss coat your master before you make your mold. A glossy surface tends to let the rubber flow over the part better then if it was a flat or a semi gloss finish on the part. With the gloss coated part there is less surface tension for the rubber to try to flow around giving you a better finished part in the end. When you pour your resin into the mold it tends to flow into all the areas of the mold that you normally get air bubbles in. And also using a mold release will help a lot. Molds release helps to get the resin to flow better into the mold as well. I hope this helps I have been casting parts now for the better part of 10 years.
  13. 1969 Camaro

    Thanks again. I will try & post some pic's of the engine it's wired & plumed.