Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ed427vette

  • Rank
    MCM Member

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Long Island NY
  • Full Name
    Edward Cervo
  1. I did a little more work on the Dino. Mostly just cleanup of some of the rough areas around the nose and side scoops. I started modifying the side scoops as suggested above and have more work to do on them. The cleanup is a slow process. This body has many pinholes. I attempted to use some Evercoat to fill them but apparently it went bad. It just refused to dry and I had to clean all the glazing off the body. What a pain. I'll have to find another solution.
  2. Hello Patrick, Great project!! The ABC kit is way more than $200, more like $600 and it might need almost as much work. Looks good. I'll see if I have any pics that might help. I saw you ask on the other forums. I'll be following this one. Happy Holidays! Ed
  3. Here are pics of the car more straight on. You can see here the fender does narrow at the scoop and widens to the wheelwell opening. The first pics is at a slight angle. Note the drivers side opening angle. You can start to see the Pegaso decal. If it was more flat as you suggest you would not see the decal. The pic below that is more straight on. The entire Pegaso decal can be seen. The decal is placed well ahead of the wheel opening I think the overlay is a bit out of scale more than not the corect angle. Look at the size of the door on the real car overlaid the model. The 90 degree angle of the top of the scoop should not extend out past the door. But you are completely correct that the scoop needs to open downward more. I agree that pic of where you blackened the opening is more of what it should look like. The funny thing is I think the scoops are not exactly the same on either side of the real car! Pics are hard to find. I have most of what I think is out there. The car changed to race number 26 after this race and the body changed a little also. The real car exists but I do not like comparing off a car as it is today because who knows what they did during the resto. Thanks again and keep telling me what you see. The more eyes the better.
  4. Hello Mike, I'm not going to cast this one. It really is a somewhat obscure car that I liked and I just wanted to build something I was pretty sure nobody else would. Hello Brian, You have a good eye. The T70 comparison is exactly what I originally thought as well. I think I captured the idea of the side scoop but it is not correct as you pointed out. The top is on or close to the horizontal (of course forgive the pot holes. Much cleanup is still needed as seen in the pic). What I think I need to do is open the scoops more on the corners to give the perception of more of the correct shape. I know I will not get it spot on. Its hard to describe my next step in that fix but I can see it in my head. Heres is part of the problem. The original Modelers Dino pattern does not have the correct door shape curve going into the cockpit area. Its is a very accurate model and this looks fine built up as the intended car but I only noticed it when I started this variation of the 206 model. It needs to be flatened a little more. So I am limited a little by the shape of the door. I will not try attempt to fix the doors as I think I can get the scoop look close enough. The scoop on my model currently looks too fat and squarish?? I think??. The real cars scoop looks thinner, more longer, rectangular. I can trick the eye a little by opening the corners and maybe closing the top edge a little by making the edge a slight bit thicker. Do you think that might do it? Take a look at the pics and if you have a better suggestion, by all means tell me. Now is the time to fix it. You mention the rear fenders not changing shape by the scoop. I am not sure what you might mean. The rear fenders are much wider. Also the scoop on the 1966 type Dino body which is what the real car (and model) was made from have a smaller scoop. The 212E type bodies and this car have a much bigger scoop which blends into the fender, extending the outer fender line towards the door. They also bulge a little. The changes are subtle so is it in that way you mean the fenders are not changed much? I can tell you this much, even these small changes just seem to create a huge amount of work......... Every small change changes something else. I guess that is exactly what makes these projects so compelling and challenging and then finally completing one so gratifying Hopefully this weekend I can spend some more time on the body. Thanks for looking and the comments gentlemen, Ed This pic shows the scoop mods between the original 206 below the modified 206 above it This pic shows the horizontal line of the scoop a little better
  5. Hello Patrick, I am not sure what engine this particular car ran and the info is a little sparse. I think Lo Piccolo kept the Dino 6 cyl motor in it. Its not a factory 212E from what I understand. I have a pic from the rear and need to indentify the trans which will help in determining the motor. I want to have an engine in there. Its not going to be fully detailed underneath but you will be able to see some of it from the rear. I'll probobly take the motor from a Fujimi 246 Dino kit (if that is actually what is in the car). If it is a flat 12 then I will have to find something. Here is another pic of the real car I really want this one to get done. I have several other projects going on at the same time. The Piper P2/3, the Lancia D50 with seperate side tanks, the 312P Sebring 1972 and the list goes on.
  6. I'm new here but I thought maybe some might be interested in this project. This is going to be a long term deal, lots of body mods. It is a Ferrari Dino 206S cut down spyder from the Targa Florio 1970, car #58. It started life as a Modelers Dino 206S with the original type body as supplied from Ferrari in the mid 60's. As is common with race cars during there life they will be modifed to better fit the race conditions to which they need to adapt to. This particular car was modified to look the Dino 212E that the factory was producing at the time to compete in the Hill Climb championships. That meant the roofs were cut off, the rear was opened, the cockpit partially covered, body's widened, etc.... So in a moment of madness I decided.........what the heck. The original Modelers Dino kits are pretty rare. They were made in Japan during the 90's and never reissued. However, someone on ebay made a few cheap copies and I grabbed a few. So at least I didn't have to cut up a $300 resin kit. Here are a few pics of whats going on so far: This is the body with the rear already cut out and the rear flat bonnet being shaped. This is the cockpit area being covered and headlight shape getting changed. I have a pic of the original unmodified 206S below to show a better comparison. The dotted lines are where I'll be cutting into the rear fenders to widen tham about 3.5mm. I also opened the radiator opening and added a rear cockpit wall. This is a pic of the fenders cut open. Here are the fenders back on. The bonnet is back off but will be permantly attached by the time the pics are finished. In these pics I started to reshape the rear ductwork into the rear fenders for brake cooling. Also added is the rear spoiler. These last 3 pics are as it is today so far. It is next to an umodified 206S kit. There is still a tremendous amount of work to be done. The front fenders need a slight increase in width. No cutting should be needed, just some material added should do fine. The grill area needs attention. The rear spoiler is slightly uneven...oops...body areas need cleaning up and the headlight areas are only just started. They still look very rough. And finally this is the real car I am trying to replicate. Comments, suggestions welcome. Ed Cervo
  7. Hello Men, This is my first post but I've been around for a long time. Some of you will know me. The question has come up about "where the molds are". I am not a caster but I have had many models cast for me by some of the better casters out there. The molds go bad just sitting on the shelf after a year or 2. At least that is what I haveseen with the molds I have. I have had the casters I use send me the molds on occassion. They tend to get hard and that makes it impossible to pull a body from them. They should stay very pliable. So as for molds, that really is not the important piece. Those can be remade and the ammortized cost is small when selling the parts that come from it. The original patterns/masters are whats important. Those can take years to produce and can not be easily replaced if damaged other than sub masters or in some cases just direct copies which leads to the next subject. I also saw a post about people copying or repopping kits. Most casters all do that to some degree. It should be frowned upon but most people/customers/buyers do not even know. Also, many people just don't care. Some casters make a slight change and feel its there original design. It is what it is. Besides most conversions are based on plastic kits so to some degree its a copy of a plastic kit. Most casters, pattern makers etc have enough respect for one another not to do to each other it but in some cases its intentional. I see it all the time especially on the international level. Some guys just go after each other, its crazy and counter productive. Also, Helmut, the Umi Ferrari 330LMB is actually a 250LMB and is only correct for the #26 car that Piper ran which was a 250GTO converted to look like a 330LMB. The 330LMB had a 2500mm wheelbase and the 250LMB used a 2400mm GTO chassis. Scale Kraft made a correct wheelbase 330LMB and the MFH did one with an engine in 24th. The Umi kit is a copy of the Joker kit and then was also copied by RnD unique. This is a great thread, love the old resin. Also, I would have been posting many years sooner but for some reason my old computer would NOT allow me to sign up here!! I am glad this PC is cooperating. Ed Cervo
  • Create New...