Good deals! I picked up a real nice '61 Starliner for a really reasonable price at the same show, along with a set of resin kidney bean Halibrand wheels with tires from the folks at Historic Racing Miniatures.
Vinyl tires are the enemy of polystyrene packing peanuts, chips, and kit parts. Generally the softer the tire the more likely they are to adversely effect styrene. Further discussion here... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/122957-why-havent-the-model-companies-addressed-the-problem-with-tire-melt/
Room temperature. Here they are when I first got them. I put them, along with the custom Lancer caps from the Impala kit, on this AMT '60 T-bird using old AMT wheel backs and wire axles. I had to wrap some additional styrene strip around the wheel backs to get the tires to fit. Within several weeks the tires had softened the edges of the wheel backs enough that the tires would not stay on and the edges of the whitewall inserts were softened and distorted.
In spite of the fact that I build mostly old kits where dealing with tire melt damage is often an issue, the worst case of melt I've seen is from a more recent kit. This little horror show came from a 2009 issue of the Revell-ogram '59 Impala hardtop. The styrene inserts are from the same plastic as the rest of the kit and they are now the consistency of chewy caramel. It's a shame the tires are so toxic because otherwise they're really nice!
Now that I'm calling the '58 Impala ragtop finished I've returned to this neglected project thanks to an eBay find with a very clean body. Clean, except for the chipped fins and damage to the front bumper and fender and the ancient green hobby enamel which I was able to pull off with masking tape! For the moment I'm digging that natural ivory & white two-tone!
Here's a little step-by-step on the fin repair. The original plan was to use spare custom fins from another old kit but once the fins were notched for the graft I realized the custom pieces were too thin.
Plan B came into play when I looked at the original '58 kit chassis and realized the rear corners would provide another source for the donor bits. Because I'm using a '59 Ford chassis for the actual build, cutting up the original chassis won't be a problem.
After cutting the end of the new pieces at a rough angle, they were superglued in place. The right angle notch makes a very firm joint. A trusty #11 blade was used to carve the grafted pieces closer to the final shape...
Once the new tips were carved close enough to the final shape, I used flat, elliptical, and round section files to get the final contour. Though the stock '58 Ford fins had a more rounded tip, I think it might be cool to retain these sharper tips for my custom. Next will be finish sanding the grafted fins followed by quite a bit of mold line cleanup and accurizing body shapes and window molding details and removing all those nice, crisp emblems. But no nasty scratch or glue damage repair from skirts or other custom junk!