No way JC these guys had height problems, you're right. Not only the height, but the ship was pitching and rolling, the masts were whipping around, wind and rain, cold, maybe awful humid heat and stink everywhere. Dead weight to handle, nothing is lightweight on a sailing ship, it's all rugged and heavy duty. These old souls were tough as nails. One hand for the ship, one for your life. Thanks for looking.
UPDATE: Today the upper level ratlines and shrouds were started. Same procedure as below, just a little bit lesser involved. This level allowed the sailors to get up higher to handle the upper sails. Here the area shown with red arrows;
The dead-eyes were made up with brass wire. and attached to the top of the lower shrouds;
I think the ends should be crimped tighter around the bracing;
Also, no way was this done with shiny metal wire. I'm thinking maybe a little gray-looking metalizer paint might help out.
Hi Greg, Great choice with the solder wire headers. I have some experience with solder rod. Important: Here in Europe we still have lead solder, and in the size you'll use for scale headers, the flux is built in. Meaning, the rosin is filled into about 5 channels through the soldering rod. This rosin will have to be removed as good as possible! Otherwise with time, and if the material gets sunlight and/or warmth, the flux will run out the ends. A real mess will incur. Either, you take care in drilling out the ends as far as possible (2mm maybe?) and seal them off with CA, or you cut the lengths to about the size you'll need, and with tweezers, dunk them in boiling water to melt the flux out. As an extra kicker, the solder rod gets a nice color from hot water. Sorry if you already knew this info. Good idea too, to drill out the exhaust ports to make a nice connection. I like to drill the ports out a lot, so the solder can be really stuck into the block. This way it's a lot easier to make the remaining bends needed. Another tip, if you don't mind. Cut a length about twice the size you need, and work both ends. Here a little, there a little. You can easily snip off either end when it starts getting close. Again, great choice with solder headers. This was a couple of years ago, 2.5mm makes to a scale 2 1/2 ". Perfect. The AMT '33 Willys;
I'm with Gerald, back in '63 the Willys. On another note....that darned Revell "Orange Crate". Never finished it as it kicked my butt good. I broke so many parts trying to get them off the trees, I gave up. What a cool old model. ....maybe, just maybe, one of these days
I always thought his evening robe deal was really funky and kind of creepy. Lots of photo presentations too with a pipe. Smoking a pipe. Hey....smoking a pipe means something else in several other languages. With all of those ladies....never mind. Fumare la pipa...si.
1st snow in Germany already. First time this fall, I wish I had long-johns on. Gray and foggy, zero sun, the gray shield is over middle Europe. Sunshine probably again in January. No problem, going to Italy soon.
When I hear 'cam' I think often about a buddy from my youth days. A Chevy guy. He had an obsession with cams, and was able to disassemble a motor and rebuild as well. Just his motors were weak, and never ran well. Probably built in cams that were not supported from the rest of the motor. Heads and such. "Three quarter cam". lol. "Here my new Isky 505"....I'll never forget those times. Ha!....another favorite is 'diy head porting'.
I like it Brian! Man, great detailing, the motor exhausts can't get much better. Also, you've set the rig in scene very well, compliments. Nicely photographed. I really like the drive wheels, would love to have these types for a future project.