Hi Brad, you read my mind. My next post was asking....what on earth are those super fine wires? Yep, there's a fly fishing shop in my small town. 1000th Anniversary next year! Kind of young for this old country. Guess where I'm going Saturday morning!
Hi noname, Thanks for the pic, that looks like a real clean Altered there! Those wild injector stacks fit the car very well. Did you have a peek into the cockpit too? The Fiat model does have a definite weighty feel to it, a lot heavier feeling than a regular kit. I like the way it feels, really compact and stout. Building a model car in metal may take a bit getting used to but it comes along really quickly. To bond the parts you CA is needed. I like using a medium viscosity, this allows a few seconds for the bond, instead of immediately for thinner types, or especially long for the gel types. I'm more than sure that if all of these metal parts were from a kit it would be a breeze to build for anyone, yes. Doesn't the Pocher big models have lots of metal in them? I'm not sure. About the fuel lines, there are different types involved. The main fuel lines from the pump up front to the barrel valve by the blower are 0.5mm solder. Fitted over these are 0.6mm brass tubes that act as connectors. The A/N fittings are out of scale in my opinion, most braided wire too. The solid core solder is a nice thing. It won't tarnish and looks almost like chrome, and is super easy to bend. Geez, I had some garlic food the other evening and I swear the stuff bent when I breathed on it. Further, the fuel lines from the injectors to the fuel blocks in back of the blower are 0.35 steel wire. I use this stuff for the spark plug wires too. The scale is correct. The tubes at the fuel block are 0.5mm brass tubing going into a 0.8mm main tube. These micro tube sets are all slide fit, meaning they all slide into each other. Really a slick setup! They're from Albion Alloys Ltd.. Lots of Hobby Shops should carry these kits. They come like in 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 and 1.0mm per set, all slide fitting into the next size! Also, they offer the same but in odd numbers as well. 0.5, 0.7 and so forth. I can get them also in German Silver, or sometimes called "nickel silver". Really a cool looking metal. I'll be doing my next build entirely from this nickel alloy, I can't wait! Lastly, the fuel line from the valve at the blower to the rear unit is just some black really fine electronic cable that I salvaged from a PC mouse. Lots of goodies in there by the way. I hope this helps, and many thanks for your interest. Michael
Ha. Yeah, so you think I'm a tease huh? Well now how about you? Paint, paint, paint....so whom does all this nagging remind you of? LOL. @Art, thanks for dropping by, I'm happy you like, and I'm keeping an eye out for your brass Midget build. You gave me some good info and tips. Thanks Dave. Last night I finished up the overflow tank for the trunk and mounted it. Now I'm with the tubs. Oh boy! They're tricky with this build and will take some patience and time. Thanks Joe. I'm really sold on Z-A-G! Brad brought me onto the stuff. I'm using the green label, #PT-02. It's perfect for bonding metals and dries clear too. Another plus point in my opinion is that the 1oz. plastic bottle with a long thin snout has not dried up yet! I keep a thin piece of wire in the tip and the bottle is always upright, still no signs of needing another tip. 1oz. of this stuff goes a long way too. Michael
Thanks Scott, just about daily some things are being added. I'm running out of things to do with this build. Today I'll mount the "oil overflow tank". The pipes from the motor to the frame are already done and waiting for the motor to be installed. Yep, getting there now, the home stretch is just around the corner. You crack me up. Man, once a paint dude always a paint dude! LOL. Yeah, I hear you, loud and clear. OK, I figure about 2 hrs. to get the body smooth enough for primer. Before that though, the "hole" in the hood for the 392 magneto will have to be filled and sanded smooth. Before that the rear wheels will have to be mounted, the front too. Maybe a good idea to have the body for this chore. Oops, I forgot the chute, this will go on the roll bar, so I need the body for this too to check clearance when the body is tilted back. Wheelie bars? Naw, we don't need no dang wheelie bars. I don't know where they go anyway. Then. Then I can finally get at the stinking collection of paints I've gathered. Wanna know what color? hehehe, ain't tellin'. Michael
Hi Bernard, I like your thinking on this, and the body sitting on that frame just looks sinister! I think too the shortened frame goes well with the body. This will look sweet in the vitrine sitting next to your previous rail job. Michael
Thanks guys, I'm really happy with the progress and the way things are turning out. All of a sudden the car is taking shape. Joe, exactly right. I like using some shiny lightweight cardboard, it has to me a better feel than poster paper. but the latter can be real nice too if it's super smooth. Just my preference. It's really easy to do. Cut the paper to about the correct length x width, hold it up for instance to the frame rails, then from the inside run a fine pencil along the rails to the paper, then cut away. If the paper has some resistance to it (not too flimsy) even very small corners and holes can be cut from the paper without any big fiddly action. Bending the aluminum sheet, like the seat and the trunk area is the same way. Template, then I score the lines either with a sharp instrument, or I like to use a separating disc at middle speed and just cut along any lines I've scored or drawn to make a bend easy. Here the seat for instance. I measured what kind of room is available (not much), then drew lines on paper;
Traced the paper template to a sheet of aluminum (0.3mm) and scored the lines with a disc.
Then with a small straight edge in place, bent the flaps inward along the lines.
A touch of Zap-A-Gap (thanks Brad), then with a soft rubber wheel at about 6,000 rpm's shaped up the edges.
Same procedure for the tins. Just before mounting though, I gave the plates a light shine with 0000 steel wool, rubbing lightly in one direction. The cardboard has enough strength to it to even stay in place if you can get it snug enough into position. Comes in handy when you have pieces that need to come close together. The firewall was a little more difficult, lots of nervy here a bit, there a bit more until it sat properly. For the size and function I used 0.7mm sheet, it doesn't wiggle a bit, it's sturdy. Thanks guys for the wonderful support, it's greatly appreciated and really helps to see when the track you follow is the way you'd planned things to be. Good stuff indeed! Michael
Well, with your milling/machining and planing skills it would be a cinch to form the object using Renshape as a mold for a material that would then be cast. To cast the material as such wouldn't be very accurate as it's too porous. The actual properties of Renshape is for me an unknown. The material may not even melt cleanly. This would lead to immense finishing difficulties. I was interested in milling a part using Renshape, then casting the Renshape part as is. You'll get there. Casting is fun.
Today I was able to mount all of the tin sheets. The FireEx will be plumbed tomorrow and the trunk area gets a puke tank (yuk, I hate that term). The brake lever needs a handle extension, I'll do this later as the correct steel wire is at my workplace. The belly pan will get done as well. Here the pics;
The steering wheel gets mounted, then the steering linkage through the firewall, throttle linkage too. Moving along well for now.