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65slotcar

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About 65slotcar

  • Birthday 11/25/1963

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24

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  • Location
    Pacifica California
  • Full Name
    william murawski

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  1. i did the number 11 car and decals from kit are accurate. would like to find the 88 numbers. Great info from JC. another thing to look for is some comp cobras have a long battery behind passenger seat and driver seat is different then passenger side. a bit squared off at top. i used a 289 comp cobra seat on a couple builds.
  2. can't add too much more to this that JC and Rex already stated. stay way from Fujumi kit . Most early race cars only had drivers lap belt and no cooling fans. Weber carbs were used mainly on 289 comp cobras. Most 427 race cobras had just a single 4 barrel. csx 3002 is a tricky one to build because grille opening is smaller like a 289 comp cobra. a reservoir under the passenger side fender would be a dry sump oil tank with a visible cap on top of right fender. very few cars had this. but not sure what the molded part is on revell kit. did you find 88 numbers for the Hal Keck csx 3008 car ? i have not seen these decals yet.
  3. you are still working on this project?? 🤪 Just kidding.....looks great Josh! it's going to beauty when done .
  4. a little progress on the early 2A ....... body filler and ready for primer. 2C (LS kit) modified side scoop, opened up scoop and moved back to correct location. installed screens.
  5. thanks guys, the grey body is a very detailed slot car body by Fein Design Modell only about 200 kits are made of each body produced.
  6. i have never used Rustoleum or Krylon primers on a model kit. They may spray ok and the actual primer itself may be fine. The one major downside to rattle cans is that you can't control air pressure and how heavy the material is being put on. Almost any primer used in an airbrush can be applied very light. Too much primer will just cover fine details like door gaps and any emblems. I have used Tamiya fine surface primer in a rattle can and it does spray very well and light, but not exactly cheap at $11.00 for a 180 ML can.
  7. this is Zeropaints # ZP-1080 guardsman blue sprayed over Zeropaints grey primer.
  8. did some work on making fender tire clearance humps.
  9. so the first one will be an early 2A and with Starfighter decals the plan is to make the Gold Star #6 Chaparral. starting with a cox re-pop slot car body i cut off front at body lines and used front from an LS brand 2C . shaved off front fins and filled in headlights slightly for smaller headlights. will be using chassis from mini exotics kit for a better interior and an engine.
  10. the LS 2C kits can be found on e-bay and Chaparral 2A can be purchased at Modelbuilderswh. com and is a HRM kit. the Fein Design Modell (slotcar body kits) are close to impossible to find even on e-bay. only about 200 kits are made of each body made. waited about 5 years to finallly get the wide rear fender Chaparral 2G from Fein Design Modell.
  11. coupe is looking great Josh. The pre-wired distributors i get are from scaleproshop.com for $6.00 each. cap is separate to distributor and makes it great for painting.
  12. my next group build. Some of my all time favorite race cars.
  13. oh no wrong firing order....just kidding. looking good so far. i am usually lazy when it comes to wiring distributors and i buy distrubutors pre-wired.
  14. thanks everyone for the positive feedback and comments. A group of Chaparrals might be next.
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