Harry, If your referring to the last photo on the key ring it's a tiger eye that I did under a magnifying glass.... In person it looks photo realistic. I made that piece for my Daughter who is into big cats, she displays it as a piece of artwork. She has keys hanging on it for effect and always has a magnifying glass near by as it is often asked about. Peace, Jimmy "RASS"
Hey Gang, I have been using Aleenes Tacky and Turbo Tacky glue (Hobby Lobby) for mock ups with much success. I typically use it when I'm at a point where I'm not going to be handling the parts for 12 hours or so. I apply it to the area I want to fasten and let it tack up a bit before I attach the parts. Once dry it has pretty good durability and will take some abuse without falling apart ( although not 100% infallible) When done I simply put the parts in warm water and the whole thing comes apart as the glue is water soluble. This has worked really well for me.... I'd be interested in what others may be using as a mock up glue! Peace, Jimmy "RASS"
Gentlemen, I pretty much put the JJ Car back in the box around April as I had somewhat of setback.... More like brain fart.... In Wisconsin when the sun shines you (I) pretty much don't have time to do much Modeling. I did however pull the JJ box last week and took a look at what I'm faced with. The problem I had was the frame had a slight twist in it and being the anal retentive sort I wanted to get the twist out of it.... I did the hot water thing and the tea pot steam thing.... it helped but I wanted better results ( in retrospect I should have left it alone) so out came the heat gun...... I was making really good progress and....... Off the rails.
I was oh so close..... Sometimes it's better to be close rather than perfect.
I could toss it but I'm going to put a front clip on it due to the fact that I bought the kit new when it was issued in the 70s and wanted to preserve as much of the kit as possible. Thanks for the interest! Jimmy "RASS" Edit: I actually put together a reply last night and failed to post it.... I found some inspiration last night at about 4 am due to insomnia. I started to clip the front end that I melted... I still have a twist in it however I'm going to try to correct that before I put the chassis cross member between the frame rails, this time I'm not going for perfect! Any suggestions on best practices on moving the styrene around would be most helpful!
A bit of fitment, tweaking, sanding and primer and we may be back on the rails... "RASS" P.S. I would like to move this thread to On The Bench! Any help would be appreciated!
John, Killer paint (as always) Shading, Blends, use of color, Composition and period correctness.... Right on! By the way do you get everything for your builds for free (sarcasm) lol Great Build!!! Jimmy "RASS"
Ray, Super Build from top to bottom! Great color choice....The ice blue has always been a fav of mine. The third photo really shows how that color flips and flops..... the hue of turquoise on the roof really pops! Awesome job Ray! Jimmy "RASS"
David, Excellent fade.. Well done!!! Yes give the Copper a whack, it truly has a very warm feel. It's been my go to base coat for a long time! Based on the photos you have shared, IMO you have some great painting skills.....Keep em coming! Much respect....... Jimmy "RASS"
Ray, This is great stuff.... Keep em coming.... You can never go wrong with any Kandie Color.... Kandie Apple Red would be super trick! Any Kandie color for that subject matter would be period correct. Please don't paint it Black! Jimmy "RASS" P.S. Right on Mike!
David, Your test spoons look awesome. I love it when people work outside the box and share. Another great base coat for transparent paint is Copper... Not commonly used, However the great Larry Watson used copper as a base for some of his most famous paint work. When I paint Kandies on 1:1 be it full on or for graphics I always keep this in mind as far as how the tone of the base coat affects the color coat. Pearl White: Very Cool, Silver: Cool, Gold: Warm, Copper: Warmer Again...Lookin Good Jimmy "RASS"
Thanks to all have replied to this post be it positive or not so much. I am working on a edit to the process to put to bed what I feel is a much superior effect to BMF Here a few reasons why I think it blows away BMF 1) You can manipulate the texture to pretty much what you desire 2) You don't have to take a knife to your substrate.... every time I see someone cutting on paint it makes me cringe. 3) You can patch in any area seamlessly. Skip makes some very great points (Thanks Skip) The leafing process is so much easier than you think and not very time consuming at all. I'll break in down. 1) Brushing the size: 5 minutes. 2) Lying the leaf: 10 minutes. 3) Burnishing the leaf :10 minutes. DONE I based these figures on doing both sides and front and rear windscreen trim. Emblems and door handles come out so clean as the leaf only sticks where the size was applied no cutting on the surface. That's a total time of 25 minutes..... I'd pay good money to see someone lay that amount of BMF in that amount of time. The most time consuming part of the process is waiting for the size to tack up for application I used to use BMF and one day after doing some leaf on a Race Car I hauled out a body and gave it a whack.... there was no turning back. I personally will never use BMF again as IMO it's inferior to the leafing process. In closing. I was offering a alternative to BMF which is really quite simple. I was surprised by some of the blow back..... lets see we hone our skills to do many types of processes yet some are not open to trying a new process, which is fine by me, I personally can't wrap my brain around that type of thinking.... different strokes I guess. It's just another tool in the tool box. Yes Skip and I have much experience in the process, However I agree with everything he wrote. He is right on A bit of eye candy...... Here are a couple of examples of various types of leaf. This is actually a wooden Pizza spatula that I made into a Key Holder for my Daughter, Kandies, Pearl, Flake, Leaf and Freehand Pinstiping. I wish the pictures were clearer.. They are very clear in my pictures folder, However when I attached them here they are fuzzy. The fan design consists of three types of imitation leaf, From the middle out is Silver leaf with a Kandie lime green misted over the leaf. Next is gold and the outer rim is Copper. The freeform design is various colors of variegated leaf. Keys is the real deal.... Genuine 23 Karat Gold. Roughly $20 dollars worth Enjoy.... Jimmy "RASS"