BSteinIPMS

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About BSteinIPMS

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    MCM Regular

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  • Scale I Build 1/18

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  • Location Stillwater, Minnesnowta
  • Full Name Bob Steinbrunn

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BSteinIPMS's Activity

  1. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Alfa Romeo P3 is finished   

    Hi Pat,
    It's a photoetch kit from The Model Car Garage, and it replaced the overscale hinges on the Revival kit.
  2. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Alfa Romeo P3 is finished   

    ...and thanks to everyone for all the kind comments! Much appreciated!
  3. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Alfa Romeo P3 is finished   


    Hi Tom,

    Certainly, be glad to.


    An inside view of the hood showing the piano hinge. Since the inside of the hood was devoid of detail I added reinforcing strips around the edges of the hood made from Evergreen .010” x .020” styrene strip with Tichy Train Group .020” rivets. Having done that, I decided to add all the louvers from the same strip styrene which were shaped after the individual strips were glued down.
  4. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Alfa Romeo P3 is finished   


    You have a great suggestion, Skip, thanks! Actually I sanded the rubber tires down to scuff them up and remove the mold seam around the circumference, but I stopped short of removing all that lovely tread pattern. Couldn't bring myself to tear it all off since the spoked wheels and tires are two of the highlights of the kit.
    Cheers!
  5. BSteinIPMS added a topic in Under Glass   

    Alfa Romeo P3 is finished
    Well, it's finished. This Alfa Romeo monoposto Tipo B P3 in 1/20 scale by Revival International in Italy took 252 hours spread over 9 months and has 2521 parts and pieces. Lots of fun and a well-engineered kit, with the possible exception of the fact that virtually none of the parts fit. You hafta make 'em fit. But then, we're modelers, right? Not just "kit assemblers".




    A right side view showing the silver fuel and oil lines along the frame, the latches in the fuel, oil, and radiator caps made from brass strip inserted in drilled-out holes, and the mechanical brake linkage underneath the car.




    This rear view shows the complex semi-eliptic springs and friction shock absorbers on all four wheels. The shocks were a challenge to scratch-build but really add significant detail to the model.




    This close-up of the cockpit reveals the Alclad II Aluminum interior, the leather seat, wood steering wheel, and the instrument panel. This is a triple laminate and was made using an old model airplane technique. The outer or front panel was cut to fit from .010” sheet styrene and the instrument holes were drilled and filed in. The center laminate section is a piece of clear acetate cut from a page protector and will look like glass when assembled. The rear section is another piece of .010” sheet styrene that had the kit’s instrument decals applied to it. When all three sections are joined together the look of gauges under glass is very realistic.




    The complex semi-eliptic springs and friction shock absorbers show up well here, as does the beautifully rendered rubber tires with a convincing tread pattern.



    The right engine bay opened up showing the exhaust manifold, ignition wiring, and the engine starting crank made from .015” brass wire and brass tubing.



    The hood and engine bay doors are designed to be openable, creating great access to the engine. The 2.6 litre straight-eight engine produced 190 hp using two Roots-type superchargers. The kit’s hood and side engine panel were devoid of detail, so all the louvers, sheet metal, and rivets were added.



    The model sits on the base of its display case with the spare engine on its stand and a Cloisonnè Alfa Romeo badge procured online which provides a little atmosphere.
    • 28 replies
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  6. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Alfa Romeo Tipo B P3 (1937)   


    Hi Scott,
    No, there is no ferrous metal in the kit, just white metal, brass, and the tiny steel screws. Having said that, though, everything gets airbrushed with Floquil.

    Cheers!
    --Bob
  7. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic 1/18 Duesenberg wire wheels   

    Aw, c'mon....you guys are embarassing me! Thanks for all the kind words from everyone; much appreciated! In this case, though, I think the magic Harry Pristovnik performs with his stunning layouts makes a nice model look better. One of the fun aspects of modeling cars from this era for me is to try to replicate an actual car. Like many of you on this forum, I think I'm at the level of....if I can see it, I can make it. Documentation and photographs are a must for this, of course, and I have to thank the Auburn Cord Duesenberg Museum in Auburn, Indiana, for the archival assistance of Jon Bill who sent me beautiful 8" x 10" color glossies of the actual car I modeled. It was no longer at the museum but they had the foresight to photograph it completely. This makes a modeler's job easy and more fun.

    Cheers!
    --Bob


  8. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Wills Finecast Bugatti T59 GP   

    Hi Andy,
    At the Twin City Aero Historians meeting on Saturday 14 Feb 2015 one of the members gave me a metal 1/24 Wills Vauxhall 30/98E kit. After a lengthy inventory I found all the pieces are there, so google brought up this interesting information: Bob Wills started producing these kits in England in 1955 (!!) and for the time they appear to be excellent. Not too bad now, either. He later sold out to South Eastern Finecast who produce a wide range of car, locomotive, and structure kits in various scales. They list my Vauxhall kit at £65.79, about $100.96 today. Not a bad gift!

    Oh, and your Bugatti is lovely. You're better than you tell me!

    Cheers!
    --Bob
  9. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Alfa Romeo Tipo B P3 (1937)   

    Well, both engines are finished and have 1020 pieces between them. One will be mounted in the car while the other will be displayed on its stand next to the finished model. You gotta love that Alclad II.

    These kits from Revival Models are best tackled if you're an intermediate or advanced modeler, mostly because there are no instructions per se. Just several exploded drawings which task you with deciding on assembly sequences and which screws go where. Still, I'm having great fun with this.












  10. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Scratch-building a 4-cylinder McVicker engine in 1/16 - Part 1   

    Thanks to everyone else for your kind comments. Hope you found something useful here!

    Cheers!
    --Bob
  11. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Scratch-building a 4-cylinder McVicker engine in 1/16 - Part 1   


    Hi Joe,
    Glad to. The way I made these spark plugs was this:
    1. Cut sections from Plastruct hexagonal styrene rod for the bases of the plugs. (This product comes in several sizes.)
    2. Chuck a section of the appropriate size styrene rod in your Dremel and turn the ceramic portion of the spark plug using files.
    3. Drill a hole down in the top of this rod and insert a short length of brass rod which becomes the terminal fitting.
    4. Using Detail Master wire of the appropriate diameter for your model, strip a bit of insulation from the end and wrap this around the brass rod to make the connection.
    5. Paint as desired.
    Cheers!
    --Bob
  12. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Scratch-building a 4-cylinder McVicker engine in 1/16 - Part 1   


    Detail Master .012" gray Ignition Wire is being used to add the spark plug wires running to the magneto. Detail Master makes a wide variety of wire in various diameters and colors.


    The hoses for the engine's cooling system were made up from insulation cut from electrical wire. The copper wire strands were removed, leaving just the hollow hose. Photoetch stainless steel hose clamps from Detail Master completed the realistic look of the hoses.


    The open hood reveals the McVicker 4-cylinder engine of 24 hp. The two access plates on the crankcase are held in place by a clamp. On the rear bulkhead is the vacuum-driven fuel pump, a large accessory. Four lubrication lines emerge from the cooling jacket which carry oil to the pistons. These lines originate at the mechanical lubricator positioned on the engine's left.


    The forward side of the engine bay contains the fan, fan shroud, and an oil can held in its three-fingered mount. The upper radiator hose running to the water inlet fitting on the engine is evident. The operating hood latches may be seen, along with their hook-shaped retainers.


    The open left engine bay reveals the four spark plugs at the top of the engine, the spark plug wires running through a conduit, the exhaust manifold, the intake manifold, the carburetor with the segmented steel hose leading to the air cleaner with its sediment bowl, and the mechanical lubricator in its brass housing.


    The forward section of the engine bay shows the brass magneto mounted on a bracket on the engine and the magneto drive coupling running forward to the gearbox. Below is the water pump with its coupling and green grease cup. The eight oil lines emanating from the mechanical lubricator were made from copper strands pulled from electrical wire.

    Well, this concludes this tutorial, and I hope you found something useful in all this even if it is a lowly farm tractor.

    Cheers!
    --Bob
  13. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Scratch-building a 4-cylinder McVicker engine in 1/16 - Part 1   



    The right side of the engine showing the vacuum-driven fuel pump attached to the bulkhead on the left, the oil can on the frame in the center, and the oil can holder just to the right of the can. The stabilizing rods can be seen running from the bulkhead to the bolt on the engine water outlet fitting, and then forward to the radiator.


    A right side view with the hood open, exposing the engine. Hood prop rods will be made later.


    A left side view with the hood open exposing the engine and its accessories. It almost seems a shame to paint the model. Almost.


    Applying MIG Productions Dark Wash around engine details with a 5-O brush to create depth and shadow. This makes details "pop out" which is a subtle yet effective technique to make all the details more visible and realistic.


    The use of Micro-Mark's Doc O'Brien's Weathering Powders. The engine exhaust pipe is having Faded Blue pastel applied with a brush to indicate some minor heat discoloration. Rusty Brown and Grungy Gray will give a hint of rust and dust, although the total effect remains very subtle.
  14. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Scratch-building a 4-cylinder McVicker engine in 1/16 - Part 1   



    The pieces for the fan are laid out and centered on a cruciform shape marked in pencil on paper. The fan arms are glued to the hub plate with CA glue. The blades are curved and CA-glued to the arms, then rivets cut from .020" styrene rod are added using liquid cement.


    The finished fan mounted on the fan gear case of the engine using two sizes of brass tubing: one for the fan shaft which slides into the other - and larger - section of brass tubing in the gear case. This allows the fan to spin and also to be removed for painting separately.


    A rear view of the fan showing the curvature of the blades and the pitch they have as a result of the fan blade arms being twisted 45 degrees. Notice the spring on the shaft which was on the full-size engine. This spring was made by winding wire around the shaft.


    The details of the engine's left side include the water pump, magneto, and carburetor.


    The left side of the engine showing the mechanical lubricator at the lower right in this view. Above the lubricator sits an inlet air filter with a clear dust bowl on its bottom and a metal hose connecting it to the carburetor.
  15. BSteinIPMS added a post in a topic Alfa Romeo Tipo B P3 (1937)   


    Hi Scott,
    If you have the interest, the Website for Revival Models is: http://revivalinternational.mysupersite.it/


    I ordered my kit directly from Italy, along with a second engine they sell separately as a kit. You'll receive a warranty slip with a serial number which you can copy and send back should you need any replacement parts that somehow became broken or lost. My kit arrived well-packaged and in excellent condition, and I did ask for three missing parts which came in about two weeks. Good service.

    Cheers!
    --Bob