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Pete J.

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About Pete J.

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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Profile Information

  • Location
    San Marcos, Ca
  • Full Name
    Pete Johnson

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12,583 profile views
  1. Tamiya Volvo 850 questions?

    I've used this kit three times. This was the last one. I grafted the rear of the Volve estate to the front of an Alfa 155. Kind of an odd cross of two BTCC cars. The other two, I can't find photos of but I chopped the roof by a scale 6" and took another 6 inches out of the belt line. I tucked the fenders in front and rear as well. The hood looks misaligned but isn't. It is just loose as this car has a full engine and the hood comes off for display. Probably not what you were looking for but great fun with what are now somewhat rare kits.

    I don't do trucks but I do like to take my time with a build. Why? Because building is the fun for me. I don't get any great kick out of finishing a model. Competing with one is some fun but that is only good for a one competitive season as far as I am concerned. I just love creating something from a kit or sometimes nothing. Longest build was 5 years of continuous building. Just the way it is. If you are enjoying building then your doing the right thing. How long it takes means nothing.
  3. What was the best car or truck you ever owned?

    Best?? Wow is that a relative term. If you are talking about longest lasting with the least repair issues then I have to go with almost any of the Toyota or Honda family cars we have owned. Always reliable, minimal cost to keep on the road and good drivers. Worst in that respect would have been my 74 911 Porsche. Within a month of owning it, it tried to kill me my bursting a fuel line in the engine compartment. Luckily it happened on startup and the car didn't catch fire. In 4 years of ownership, the electronic fuel injection went our and I had to tow it 50 miles to the nearest Porsche dealer to get it fixed, the heat exchangers rusted out and cost $1,000 for parts alone. In Northern Michigan you don't want to be without heat, and tuneups were ridiculously expensive. The darned thing required 10 quarts of oil to change the oil. Oh and chain tensioners needed replacement every couple of years. But it was the most fun to drive in my early years! Nothing else like it. My first sports car was as new 72 240Z. It introduced me to the true fun of sporting cars. Durable, easy to drive and fun. Up pretty good car. All time best though has to be my current car. A 1993 MR2 Turbo. I am the second owner had have personally put 100K miles on it. Never had any major issues with it. I am currently having it rebuilt with as many OEM parts as I can find, so I can enjoy it for another 20 years. It is fast, handles like a gokart and really is a looker. Yup, that is my best choice.
  4. Ok, I promised someone(sorry I don't remember who) that I would post these photos of my engine as it was completed. It is out of ,my MR2 Turbo and is the same engine used in the Celica GT4. Not sure if they will help anyone but here they are. This is the engine in stock trim. The only non OEM parts I used are internal and can't be seen.
  5. LHS closes! Bad news/good news

    This is not the usual story, lamenting to passing of another local hobby shop. After 17 years Hobby Town in San Marcos, Ca. is closing up shop this week end. They have been in this location for 17 years and are really good people but at 70 years old, just can't do the work full time anymore. I will most certainly miss them as they are great people. I could always go in and engage them in converstion and get the latest news. That is the bad news. Good news. No, they are not putting in a tavern to replace them. Another large local hobby shop(not Hobby lobby) from south San Diego is looking to open a location here in the north county! Like the old shop, they are primarily plastic, R/C and rocketry. So we could be getting a new hobby shop! Yahoo!
  6. I would really like to see a photo of your use of it. The area I have the most problem is not the bottom of the panel line but at each edge because the sharp edges on either side of the grove that don't give enough coverage on kits that are molded in white. I have tried thinned paints and other methods to hide that this without much success until I started using black as a base coat. Would love to see anything that works.
  7. I have been using TS-50 mica blue a lot. I'm doing WRC cars and I have found that this paint is really very transparent. Using a white primer or a light base exaggerates the panel lines by making them very light. Flat black seems to give a better finish to my eye. Granted it will be a darker shade of blue but the panel lines are much less prominent.
  8. Smoky, as promised here are some reference photos of my 3S-GTE engine going back together.
  9. Drill Bits

    And that is the reason to pay a little more for these. The cheap versions are lucky if the end it flat, much less has a real and proper taper. Quality control costs money!
  10. Tim, I think you mean Johnson & Johnson. Masters and Johnson were the sex researchers in the 60's. Regardless, heck of a job on the parachute! I have never seen one with so much attention to detail. This thing is going to be drop dead gorgeous! I have seen many discussions on this board about what constitutes a "Master Modeler". Frankly, there is no doubt that you are a good example of what one would expect from that designation!
  11. Compressor recommendations

    I think your key word here was quiet. Did you mean quiet or silent? The reason I ask is my compressor is pretty quite for a garage but would never bring it in the house. It runs gas a 2.5 gallon tank and fills to 175 psi. Once it is filled I shut it off and can paint most of the day on one fill. So for about 5 minutes it is really loud and then silent for the rest of the day. Others have mentioned CO2 and scuba tanks absolutely silent also but need a fill. At one time Badger made a connection to attach to a spare tire. Also most compressor companies make a auxiliary tank which is just a tank with a valve. You take it to a compressor and fill it and then paint. So you really have to answer the relative question of what is quiet to you first.
  12. Ok, here's a different thought. Have you ever been in an auto paint shop and seen a display with a bunch of small oval plastic shapes that sort of have a car shape on the wall as paint displays? Well they are called speed shapes. They are widely used by auto paint companies to test paint. They are ABS plastic and with a little research can be found quite inexpensively. I was lucky some years back to find an online paint supplier who was clearancing a bunch of "Mini" speed shapes out and bought a hundred for about $25 if I recall. I like them because they are about the size of a small model car body and have the curves to see what the color will look like as it plays over the various curves of a body.
  13. Sanding nightmare

    I'm a little late to this party but will throw in a couple of tips from my experience. I have a little differant approach. I use Micromesh sanding sticks. http://micro-surface.com/index.php/products-by-type/nail-buffers/micro-mesh-nail-buffer.html You can get these from a lot of places like MicroMark, but this is link is to the manufacturer and you won't get them cheaper. To start you could get a few three grit, and use it to figure out what works for you. I would suggest the 2400/4000/12000 initially. Once you find out what works then order single grits of each. I only buy single grits anymore because the multigrits will have one wear out well befor the other and you wind up with a lot of half used sticks. I use these first to take of parting lines and major imperfection and always use them wet. I have a small spray bottle with 50/50 alcohol /distilled water. The alcohol acts as a wetting agent/cleaner. After the initial sanding, I dry the body and spray it with a very light coat of Tamiya white primer(gray if the model is molded in white plastic). I then re-sand it. This will bring up any defects no matter how small. Small sink marks or scratches will pop right out. Also any mold lines you may have missed or not eradicated completely will also pop out. If this shows any defect that are really too deep then some filler is called for and a re-prime and sand. Once you have it sanded down with the finest grit ,then you are ready for another light coat of primer to make the surface uniform and then your color. Good luck.
  14. Drill Bits

    Buy the way, the ones I get from McMaster are made by Kyocera. Super quality. They also all have a 1/8" shank, which also makes them work on a Dremel or regular chuck even at very small sizes.
  15. Ok, neither of those look at all like my engine bay. Radically different. However, I have an agreement with the mechanic working on my car that he is going to call me so I can shoot some pics before he puts it back in. I will post those when I have them. I am basically restoring the car to original condition. I am the second owner and the body and paint are in perfect original condition. I am doing it at this time, because a lot of OEM are still available, though important ones are not, like pistons, valves and bearings. I am replacing those with forged race pistons(same compression) and stainless steel valves. This way the car will be basically unchanged with stronger components. In short, I will have an engine that should be good for another 200,000 miles. Current car has 140k on it and I am the second owner. The mechanic has been trying to convince me to kick it up a notch but there are getting to be so few unmolested MR 2s out there that I want this one as a collectable.