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Pete J.

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About Pete J.

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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  • Location
    San Marcos, Ca
  • Full Name
    Pete Johnson

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  1. This is what the originals looked like. Not the huge looping arcs.
  2. Was doing some research on a lotus Europa and found this photo of a real engine bay. If you wired up an engine bay like this on a model you would get hung from the nearest tree. Typical "Angry Spider" wiring technique!😵
  3. This and the Saab Sonett were cut from the same cloth! Had a fellow student at pilot training that owned a Sonett. It was a fiberglass coffin with a large heater. Not a great combination in Southwest Texas.
  4. I agree with Snake on this one. I've done a couple of diecasts and it depends on what you want it to look like. If you just want it to look okay from a distance, then tape and a can of Duplicolor would do the trick. If you are going for a dead nuts on replica then it get a lot more difficult. A good quality paint job on diecast requires striping it and that is a serious undertaking. First off, most of the diecast models are dipped in paint so it is very thick. Removing the paint requires that you remove everything plastic like trim, head and tail light lenses, windows and window trim and bumpers. Then soak the body in acetone. That is the only thing I have found that is guaranteed to take off whatever type of paint it is covered in. Once you have done that, you will probably find that the paint was hiding a lot of dings, seams and other defects that will require some metal filing and then filling and sanding to get a good even surface. Then some good metal primer. I use a good quality two part automotive primer but you need to select a primer that is going to work with the paint you are applying. I also found that Tamiya makes a rattle can of metal etching primer that works well. From there on it is just like any other model paint job. Good luck! Here are a couple of an MG that I did. This took a lot of time and work especially the trim.
  5. As far as I am concerned there is only one choice. Optivisor! I have been using them over the last 20 years and they have two major advantages. The first is that they have a plethora of lenses that you can buy separately to accommodate aging eyes. Second their lenses are ground glass, so a little solvent on them doesn't damage them. I have been wearing glasses with them for years and I wear them so the top half of my glasses overlap the bottom of the optivisor lenses. That way I have what is in effect a trifocal. Works very well for me. A quick search of the internet will give you a lot of choices. Just put in Donegan Optivisor and you will have bunch of sources. CAUTION- there are a lot of lookalike knockoffs that are just garbage. Expect to pay about $35 minimum. It may seem like a lot for a hobby but I assure you, you will find yourself going to them for a lot of chores around the house. They are particularly good for splinter removal! 😵
  6. That is really pretty but the JPS special in black is in my opinion the best looking. Perhaps I will get around to building mine.
  7. Spent 9 years in the AF as a pilot. I've seen what the Thunderbolt II is capable of an it is definitely impressive not only for the GAU-8 cannon but also the amount of damage it can take. There are photos out there of them coming home missing a good chunk of win or half the horizontal stabilizer or having and entire engine blown off. Defintily can take as good as it gives. I think it is time to let someone else step in and handle this one, though I do know the one major weapon that will get a hog pilots attention.
  8. oops, never saw that one coming. No really he never saw it!
  9. Are we still playing the game?? If so... Paper
  10. oops! Never safety wire the pop off valve shut!
  11. Change out the hammer! https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/rubber-hammer-claw-hammer-movie-prop-108837063
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