[[Template core/front/global/utilitiesMenu does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
  • Announcements

    • Dave Ambrose

      Board Status   07/20/2018

      We're still trying to solve a disk space problem. Unfortunately, it's being stubborn about getting rectified. There will be a long maintenance window this weekend, which I will announce here. Thank you all for being patient. 

Pete J.

Members
  • Content count

    2,867
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Pete J.

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    .
  • Skype
    .
  • Facebook
    .

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    Anything

Profile Information

  • Location
    San Marcos, Ca
  • Full Name
    Pete Johnson

Recent Profile Visitors

13,116 profile views
  1. Zap Formula 560 canopy glue for anything going on a painted surface. It is a white glue but has a couple of unique properties. First is that it gets tacky really quickly so you don't wind up trying to hold the part in place for ever. Second, like most glues of this type, it dries clear and last, it is a little flexible when dry so if something like a mirror gets bumped it has a little give. Oh, yea and it is water cleanup.
  2. Tamiya 1/20 Williams FW27 w/Acu-Station detail set

    I have one but would never part with it or build it. I was at Tamiya HQ the week before it was released and was given it by S. Tamiya himself. He and M. Tamiya both signed and dated it. It's a keeper. By the way, the Scale Motorsport set for it is really outstanding but equally rare and hard to find.
  3. Warming your paint

    Just noticed your location and realized that perhaps you do need to warm your airbrush paints. Just guessing, but I would think that keeping them in the 25 to 30 degrees C would be ideal. Also having what you are spraying at or near that temperature would also help the paint cure properly.
  4. Warming your paint

    The primary reasons for warming rattle cans is to increase the pressure, thin the paint to aid in flow out and to speed off gassing. With an air brush you can do the first two by adjusting your compressor and adding thinner to the paint. The last part is not necessary for a rather obscure reason. Rattle can paint atomizes by having the propellent(a gas usually propane) dissolved in the paint so that when it exits the nozzle, the gas expands and atomizes it. No matter what you do, some of the propellant will make it to the surface dissolved in the paint and can cause issues, like bubbles. Atomization in an airbrush happens because of high pressure air flowing turbulently around the tip of the nozzle and breaking the paint into tiny droplets, thus no dissolved air in the paint. By heating your paint, you may get a faster flash time, but it is hardly worth the effort.
  5. How Many Do You Work On At Once?

    Do the ones I started and just never got around to finishing count?? Hope not. Generally 4 or 5 at any given time. Sometimes I hit a roadblock and have to let is rest for a while to get my head around a problem.
  6. whats the rarest model you own and did you build it?

    3S-GTE here! Just had it rebuild to original specs with as many OEM parts as I could find. All the horses are back in the barn!
  7. Twenty five bucks to cut a cake.😡

    This is the wrong reaction. The tip goes to your server. Stiffing the server who probably had nothing to do with it is punishing an employee. Servers get stiffed all the time, especially by large parties. I have a friend who is a server and she hates waiting on large parties for that very reason. Want to cause the owner a problem? Contest the charge on your credit card. That will really mess up their day!
  8. Great Traders List

    Just got my half of a trade with Mike 999. Thanks Mike. You were a great gentleman. These were not cheap models we exchanged. I would do another swap with you in a heartbeat.
  9. This is basically and updated version of the old Basic badger external mix airbrush. It is better that hand brushing but only marginally. I used one 40 years ago and it got me started. The big pit fall is the cans. The more you spray, the colder they get and eventually they will be spraying frozen paint. The cans are relatively pricey and it wouldn't take to long to add up to the cost of aa reasonable airbrush and compressor. If it is all you can afford, then it is a good place to start, but long term you would be better off saving your money for a quality airbrush and compressor.
  10. Scale Engines that run...

    The only thing that we truly have in this life is our mind and our time. Everything else is ours temporarily. How you spend your time and what you do with your mind says a lot about you. Do you prefer to spend your time doing the same time over and over and not challenging yourself or are you the the type that is always seeking to work on more complex and challenging projects. If you are the later type then eventually given enough time you will get to this sort of stuff. The choice is always yours and being critical of how others spend their time is a waste.
  11. Murphy was right!

    Murphy's law of similar bottles- If there are two bottles sitting side by side with different substances in side(like paint and thinner), you will invariable grab the wrong one! How do I know? Was clear coating a body with an airbrush. Emptied the brush and grabbed a bottle to refill it. Air brushing wet clear coat with lacquer thinner is not a good thing!
  12. Murphy was right!

    Got my Ames lettering guide and learned to use it my freshman year(1967)at U of Wyoming. There was not such thing as technical drawing of the curriculum. Only drafting I &II. Still have all my tools including the drafting board, T-square, compass set, drafting pencil sharpener, and cleaning bag. Only class I got an A in my freshman year.
  13. Murphy was right!

    My guess is that you know what this is and how to use it. I still have mine!