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Pete J.

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About Pete J.

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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  • Location
    San Marcos, Ca
  • Full Name
    Pete Johnson

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  1. There is something to be said for doing an "easy" model once in a while just for the fun of it. My preferred relief are egg planes. However, having said that, to me the real joy of modeling is taking it to another level. The joy of doing the difficult well. The challenge of doing something you didn't think you could do. In short, leaning a new skill. At 70 years old, there is still much I can learn how to do. It gets me out of the bed every morning.
  2. The difference between a good modeler and a great modeler is the great modeler is better at fixing mistakes. All to often people think that great modelers get it right first time every time. Not true! They are just great fixers!
  3. This is an early version of the 901 body style that I've never seen in a model. I am sure it would confuse the heck out of a lot of people. I believe it was a early prototype that was never produced.
  4. Ok, I was really barking up the wrong tree! I thought it looked like a Ghia one off. Never considered another Italian coach builder.
  5. Ok, I give up! I guess I will have to wait for tomorrow.
  6. I recognize the coach builder as they did several similar designs, but I can seem to find this one. That snout(ugly) has me baffled.
  7. Another option would be to make your own body colored decal. Get some white decal paper and cut out the strip. Then spray the decal paper with the body color using a lacquer paint. The lacquer will generally stick to the decal paper without harming, but follow the same procedure you would use to clear coat over any decal. Lacquer is also impervious to water so the decal should work just fine. Also use white and not clear decal. That way you will get a true color. If you use clear the color underneath may "bleed" through if the paint is slightly translucent.
  8. Not quite. I over fill the indentation with super glue. I then sand it down with a sanding stick. When you just sand bearly through the BMF, you know you are on the edge, so no trimming required, but it takes a delicate touch to sand it just enough.
  9. Mark just a thought on clear windscreens. I found out about thermoform plastic(AKA PETG) a while ago and experimented with it. It is available on the internet in various thicknesses and come in good sized sheets. Both MSC and McMaster Carr sell it in up to 4'X4' sheets. A 24" x 24" x 1/16" sheet runs about $12. One sheet will last a modeler a lifetime. First advantage is that it is much thinner and thus more "to scale" than the kit pieces. Second, you can leave the protective plastic on it and tape it to the original part and hit it with a heat gun to get the proper contour. The main disadvantage is that it is softer so it can scratch easier. Once that is done, it is much more flexible when fitting it to the frame. With the protective plastic in place you can handle it all you want to shape and fit it without worrying about scratching it. Once I have it just right then I do the Future thing to get a high gloss on it. To me it is much easier than trying to rework to old plastic parts. If you are down this way I have a fair amount of it and you could have enough for this project.
  10. The quote I remember was the Phantom proved that a brick will go supersonic given enough power! Still wanted to fly one as a young second banana with wings of silver!
  11. This would have been a bit scary to fly even without the odd aerodynamics. Pilot is sitting between two jet engines that didn't have a long life. Pilot didn't stand much of a chance if one of the engines granaded(and the did) and started throwing shrapnel. At the end of the war, the germans weren't to concerned about pilot safety.
  12. I always enjoy seeing these early jets and the imaginative ways that they worked through airflow issues on the engines. My guess is that judging from the intake size for two engines, this thing was a pig to get airborne. Those are tiny inlets and the turbulence in the inlet had to be horrible. Still a very nice looking aircraft.
  13. I've only done one resin model and used Westleys Blech white (yea that is the correct spelling) and had no issues. It was a very large casting, 14" wing span and 12" long fuselage, all one piece. Soaked it over night, too a toothbrush to it to get in the panel lines and then hit it with Tamiya white primer. Primer went down like a dream. Smooth and even, no fisheyes.
  14. Walked out of my house about an hour ago and this was parked across the street. Nice restoration on a 70's Kombi!
  15. That is up to you, but a bright blue like Tamiya TS-10 french blue would give you a light blue hue. The under coat doesn't matter as to its composition(Lacquer or enamel) because no matter what you lay down as a first coat, the second coat has to be Alsa base which is a clear waterborne urethane. Get a good glossy coat of that down and let it dry thoroughly before you spray the metalic. By thoroughly, I mean for me overnight in my food dehydrator. The Alsa base interacting with the metallic is what makes it durable. If you cheat and use something else the metallic will rub off. Don't skip that step or you won't be happy! By the way the base can also be used as a top coat if you need it for something like protecting decals but it isn't necessary.
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