Many years ago, when Tamiya/con was still around, I was talking to, S. Tamiya and he mentioned that to research the model, he chased the original all over Europe photographing it. He said that the photos were stored at the world HQ in Japan. Wouldn't we all like to see that archive open up? Oh, and he had the photos of all the other room large scale models also.
Hording them? Not me! I do have 4 of them all paired with the basic Tamiya kit. I also have three of the 956's. Problem is i am not willing to part with them for what people are will to pay. I had one member of this board who showed some interest but when I said it was going to take 4 figures to get me to give a set up he lost interest in a hurry. The 956's are just a no go for almost anything. As you know I am one of the few who has built one and I built two of them. I use up three kits on those. It literally took me over 6 years to build them both.
Zap formula 560 canopy glue. Get it at the R/C counter. It is a water based white glue formulated for holding clear canopy's on R/C aircraft. It tacks up pretty quickly an drys clear. Because it is water based it cleans up very nicely with either a little water or alcohol on a Q-tip. Great stuff!
I've done it but have little bit more complex method. First Bare Metal foil the emblem. Then put a large glob of white glue on top and let it harden completely. I then use some epoxy body filler to add a "handle" over the white glue, but not enough to cover the edge of the white glue(this is important later). Once this is hard I pull it off the model. The BMF should come off intact. I then fill the back side of the BMF with super glue and let that harden. Once hard I sand the back flat with a sanding stick. Then you put the whole thing in water. This will dissolve the white glue layer and separate the emblem from the body filler and just like that you have your emblem. Not really a project for the impatient but it works well.
Seeing your build on this makes me which I could have afforded a mill and lathe earlier. There is a lot on this kit that would have been easier (not to mention better looking) to make from scratch than to try an clean up and paint. Things like half shafts, swing arm attachment points, etc.
Hey, Jesse, maybe we could play this at the club BBQ. Maybe have a cooler on the table and only one person at a time could open it and see what is there, you then have the option to take the kit and leave your. We could let that go on until everyone had a kit.
Tim, it looks like the same problem I am trying to conquer. That shape doesn't make it easy. The fact that it looks like two half circles on the edge of a rectangle has me a bit baffled. I think mine is shorter with a tighter radius. Humm, perhaps three parts?
Tim, this is getting serious(not that it wasn't before)! Each of the individual parts are great, but this is such a synergistic project. Seeing them come together really shows how the whole project is much greater than the sum of the parts. A real revelation to see the mockup! By the way, on the step jaws, I hate to admit it but I bought a separate vice just for them. Although the indexing of the jaws, if I ever take them out is probably pretty accurate, I just feel that milled in place is probably the best way to keep them parallel. Sherline vices are not stupid expensive. When you mentioned machinist vises, I looked on line for one and I am not sure I want to drop $500 on a good one. What type are you using?
FYI in the future you can down load them directly from Tamiya USA's web site for the most part. Go to Tamiya America then Scale models and break it down from there(1/24 scale sports cars then 300SL in this case), you will get to the product page. Under the tabs you will see "manual". If you click on that it will send you a PDF of the instructions just like this. https://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/24338ml.pdf I believe they have almost all of the manuals available in this fashion.
Tamiya extra thin is a solvent glue in the same family as Tenex and Weldon. It fastens plastic together by melting it an then letting it reharden. It is the same thing that happens when you weld steel. I would never recommend using it on clear parts. Much too aggressive. CA's or superglues are another family. The glue by adhering to both surfaces. They are only as good as the strength of that bond. It is very much like peanut butter gluing two pieces of bread together. They work well but the fogging is a result of their interaction with moisture or body oils interacting with the fumes from the glue. Police use the fumes to enhance finger prints. Some super glues have a greater tendency to fog than others and the thinner the glue, the higher the likelihood of fogging. There are some that are formulated for clear plastics. The only one I am familiar with personally is Zap Polizap. It is for RC car bodies made of lexan. I have used it successfully on clear plastic for years. PVAs or white glues will also hold clear plastics and work just like CA's in that they create an adhesive layer between the parts. A lot of PVA's also have some serious flexibility. I believe that your RC canopy glue may be an early version of what i use which is Zap formula 560. I like it because it gets tacky quite quickly and dries dead clear. That is my two cents worth. Hope it helps.