Pete J.

Members
  • Content count

    2,111
  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Pete J.

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 11/05/1949

Profile Information

  • Location San Marcos, Ca
  • Full Name Pete Johnson

Recent Profile Visitors


10,391 profile views

Pete J.'s Activity

  1. Pete J. added a post in a topic I don't do hot rods. Well, maybe I do.   

    Yup, but just the grunt work part of the build.  Filling in the gaps and sanding it even.  Not pretty but that is what has to be done.  I need to get this done before I go after the sectioning.  Also working on a set of rims and tires. 


  2. Pete J. added a post in a topic Phoro-etched screen source?   

    KA models use to have all different types for screen.  Hex, square, diamond, round etc.  I just did a search but couldn't find it easily.  I am sure if you spent the time you could come up with it. 
     
  3. Pete J. added a post in a topic what paint do you use   

    Yes, I use paint.
    Well, actually, I use a lot of different paints.  Here is my list and why.
    Lacquers:  Tamiya Rattle Can, Testors Rattle can, DuPont Automotive(Lucite), House of Color -  Lacquer is great for most things.  It is quick drying, polishes out well and you can get a lot of different colors that match the real deal for cars and automotive paint.  Down side- getting harder to find especially in "eco-friendly" states like California.  Some forms will attack decals and plastic with a vengeance.
    Enamels- Tamiya and Floquil.  These are solvent based enamels.  The Tamiya stuff is not available here but you can still find it from Japan.  Great for brushing small parts.  The Floquils were formulated for railroad use and are for the most part flats, but they have a lot of different shades of blacks and grays.  Super for shading under the hood and other parts were one shade of black isn't enough.  I also think that the Tamiya Black semi-gloss is one of the most accurate for under the hood.  Just the right amount of gloss.
    Metalizers:  I didn't include these under lacquers although they are for the most part lacquers(exception is the black under coat for Alcad.  It is an enamel)  Testors, Alclad and Alsa-  These are all metalizers in different shades.  Again, in detailing, one shade of metal just doesn't look right.  In an engine bay there are literally a ton of different metal finishes. 
    Acrylics-  Vallejo and Tamiya- again different paints for different uses.  These are for the most part water/alcohol based paints.  You need different levels of gloss and using these works well for that.  Also great for figures.  You can thin the Tamiya acrylics with their lacquer thinners for a quicker dry time and harder finish, but you can only do it once on the top coat. 
    Why, the different paints.  Well in addition to what each does well, you can layer them based on the strength of the thinners.  Lacquers on the bottom will not be effected by Acrylic thinners over the top and so on.  This is great for weathering and shading.  Also solvent based paints generally go through an airbrush better than water/alcohol based paints.   
  4. Pete J. added a post in a topic I don't do hot rods. Well, maybe I do.   

    Never knew that, but then as I said I don't do hot rods.  To me growing up in the 50's and 60's it always meant someone taking an old and maybe worn-out car and making it go as fast as you could on a budget.  We just referred to it as hot rodding a car but thanks for informing me.   
  5. Pete J. added a topic in On The Workbench   

    I don't do hot rods. Well, maybe I do.
    Hot rods are not my thing but I do enjoy the challenge of something different from time to time.  Every once in a while I get my arm twisted and this is one of those times.  The arm twisting came from a club build and I couldn't not do it.
    This is a 53 Chevy panel and I decided to start with a six scale inch chop on the top.  It is always a challenge to decide how to make the cuts you need and just where to put them.  In this case the slab side of the panel really had a lot to do with how to do this.  there is a bit of a taper to the body do the centerline cut is slightly tapered to account for that. 
    I'm also considering sectioning the body.  I do like a sleeker look.  Well slightly sleeker then a brick. 




    • 15 replies
    • 855 views
  6. Pete J. added a post in a topic "Obscure" Languages   

    I got it from my Vermont grandfather.  I believe the origin is Scottish as in "A wee dram to ward off the chill".  Always heard it in reference to whiskey, which my Grandfather was quite fond of. 
  7. Pete J. added a post in a topic "Obscure" Languages   

    Personally, I speak Midwestern with a notable New England accent.  I grew up in western Nebraska on the family homestead.  My grandfather was the first generation born in the US but had a very strong Swedish accent.  My Grandmother was German so my dad had a colorful mix of bits of both languages and boy could he get colorful when things went south.  To top that off he was a navy pilot during WWII so color filled his language.  My mother was a native "vamanter"(Vermont) so that is were the New England side kicks in.  My children speak some other dialect.  They were both raise here in California but pick up a bit of east coast from my wife a native of "balamer"(Baltimore).  Having spent 9 years as a pilot in the Air Force, I have my own share of color in my language.  If a linguist were to try and nail down the local for my kids or me, it would be a serious challenge.  The interesting part is that my daughter has been in Baltimore for a couple of years working on her masters and her language is moving that way.  So what form of English do I speak?  'merican with bits and pieces from everywhere.
     
    Oh, and Oban is my favorite brand of Scotch!  A dram or two before bedtime is a perfect tonic for a good nights sleep!
  8. Pete J. added a post in a topic Foam sanding pads   

    That is why I stock up when I buy.  I get the sanding sticks 100 at a time and 20 of each grit of pad that I use.  Of course I have learned what I use and so none of it will go to waste.  In fact, the last order that I made, I quite ordering tri-grit sanding sticks and orders 3 different single grit  sticks, because it occurred to me that I was tossing sticks that one or two grits had worn out and I was wasting them.   They do last, but it is sanding medium and they don't last forever.
  9. Pete J. added a post in a topic TRULY RAREST OF THE RARE 1/25 MUSCLE CAR KITS OF ALL TIME   

    I am a firm believer in that philosophy!  Good to see others who share that approach.  Always on the look out.  It has been said that what goes around comes around.  This time it was my turn.  Thanks very much! 
  10. Pete J. added a post in a topic tamiya lacquer spray and unprimed bodies   

    In a word yes.  Would I do it.  No!  Some of what you suggest is good, but probably for the wrong reasons.  All paints need something to grab ahold of.  Some get it by attacking the surface with solvents to get a grip.  Others have to have scratches(AKA key) from sanding  to lock on.  Either way, what ever you do to improve adhesion of the paint is good. 
    That is one of two reasons for primer.  All primers dry flat which gives your color coat something to get a good grip on.  The other reason for primers is they have a high level of solids(all paint are made up of three things, pigment, binder and solvent).  This makes it so you can't see through them.  Basic plastic is somewhat translucent and if you just polish it out it still looks like plastic in certain lights regardless of how shinny you get it. 
    Sanding or polishing the surface is a good thing because it removes the surface imperfections and gives you an even surface to lay the paint on.  It also gets rid of surface contaminates which may react with your paint. 
    Here is my prep.
    1. Wash the plastic with a good grease cutting soap in warm water.  This gets rid of anything the manufacture may have left on the surface.
    2.  Wet sand the surface with a series of finer sanding sticks to get rid of all the mold lines, sink marks and other general unevenness.  I generally start with 3200 grit and do a 4000 and 6000.  nothing any finer is needed at this point.
    3. Clean the surface with 50/50 mix of distilled water and  91% alcohol and a soft microfiber towel.  This get rid of all the dust and preps the surface.
    4.  Prime the surface with a fine white primer(gray if the plastic is white) and let it dry. 
    5.  Wet sand very lightly with a 4000 grit sanding stick.  This will show you any high spots or parts that need work. 
    6.  Once you have all the areas worked out, reprime with a very light coat of the original primer and set it aside for a couple of days.
    7.  Now spray with several very fine coats of color.  Don't expect the first couple of coats to cover.  If they do, you are putting too much paint on.  Once you have the surface covered then set it aside for a couple of day.
    8.  If you are going to clear coat, then again, light sanding with 4000 grit to get a key for the clear, a light pass with the alcohol water mix and clear it.
    9.  Now you are ready to polish.  This time start with a 4000 grit followed by 6000, 8000, 12000.  Then use a little fine or superfine grit polishing compound and you should be fine.
    This is how I do it.  It sounds like a lot of work, but I am finicky about my paint jobs.  You can do as much or as little as you want, but eventually you will find a method that works for you.
  11. Pete J. added a post in a topic '69 GTO convertible   

    Did one of these years ago and it was a pig to get it right.  Most people don't realize at first glance that the convertible has completely different rear quarters and trunk lid.  If I recall right, I had to do a pie cut to get it right.  Or you could start with the new 69 Chevelle convertible kit and chop out the parts that you needed.  The color looks spot on.  A lot of people don't know that Pontiac Carousel Red is the same color and Chevy Hugger orange.  Looks great.  You got me thinking about doing another one of these.
  12. Pete J. added a post in a topic Porsche 934/5   

    Mark, is this an old resin kit?  Nothing ages like old resin!  Thank goodness.  Looks like a challenge.  It will be fun to watch!
     
  13. Pete J. added a post in a topic Read any good books lately?   

    My reading habits are a bit on the diverse side.  My last two books are "A higher Calling", a true story about a German and US pilot who met in the skies over Germany and "The Heretics Daughter" a historical novel about the Salem witch trials.
      My aviation back ground was the basis for my interest in "A Higher Calling".  I had heard of the story of chivalry by the German not finishing off a shot to hell B-17 and found the story fascinating.
      The Heretic's Daughter is a bit more convoluted.  I came to it as a result of my sisters digging into our family tree and finding that my grandmother seven times removed was one of the women hung as a witch and this book was about what happened to her and her(my)family told from the point of view of her daughter.  My family is descended from the narrator's brother, but it is still a very interesting story when it is your family.
  14. Pete J. added a post in a topic How rare is it really and what is it worth?   

    Joel, Sorry if I stated my position in a less than effective way.  I was actually trying to side with you and keep it minds open to other points of view.  I think you made a good point and I wasn't intentionally headed to the negative side.  It just seems every time one of these threads comes up somebody jumps on the "Well that's just stupid!" bike and peddles off into the distance without considering other POV's. 
    Understanding collectors and collections is challenging at best.  I found the narrative on the eBay post most informative and see the value to someone who has a room full of "mint in the box" models.  We all just need to realize that internet sales are a "world wide" proposition.   The seller is obviously a collector and the collector market is obviously who he is going for.  I am going to follow that sale, because I am interested to see if it actually goes for that. 
     Would I spend $1,700 on a kit?  Yup!  Been there, done that.  Would I spend $1,700 on that kit.  Nope, doesn't appeal to me because I am a builder with a stash, not a collector who builds.
  15. Pete J. added a post in a topic How rare is it really and what is it worth?   

    All valid points but here is what it comes down to.  Why do you want to buy it?  If you are a wealthy collector(I don't think many here are) then you may be willing to pay anything to "complete" your collection.  If you are a guy who wants to build a 1911 then it probably doesn't matter if you have an original or a repop.  Your going to build it and when you are done, no one will be able to tell what your source was.  If you are a resin caster and you can make repops for $30 or $40 a piece, then it may be worth it to make a mold from the original part.  A lot of different reasons.  It is worth $1,700? Perhaps to someone who doesn't share your motivation, but that doesn't make their motivation any less real or correct.  It just makes it different.  After all any model is worth exactly what someone is willing to pay for or what someone else is willing to part with it for. 
    Interestingly, there was an episode of American Pickers that highlighted a person who had a collection of slot cars.  Now by a collection I am not talking about a tub or two of them but a small warehouse full.  Literally thousands of them.  Some of them went back to the early 1900's.  He was looking to sell the entire collection for $1,000,000 and it had been valued at $1,500,000.  Anyone interested?  No?  I thought not. 
    Although many of us have collections(or stashes if you will) not many of us are true collectors.  The true collector is concerned about more than we builders are.  They are concerned about originality, completeness and condition of boxes, etc.  Each of these impacts the ultimate value.  As builder, for the most part we just care if all the parts are there and we can build a model out of it.  Different POV.  If you see something that looks ridiculously over price, try stepping into the other guys shoes and see if you can understand their motivation.  It is much more informative and interesting than taking a pot shot at them.  Indecently Joel, that looks like how you started this post.  Good for you!