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Pete J.

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About Pete J.

  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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  • Location
    San Marcos, Ca
  • Full Name
    Pete Johnson

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  1. Dave, Ababa Nut and Bolt in San Marcos is great. https://abababolt.com/ They have an absolutely massive stock to pick from. Only down size is you have to buy large quantities, like 50 or 100. Found out that that quantity is about the same price as 2 plastic packs from home Depot. Check them out
  2. Traffic! Lots and lots of traffic. Took an hour and 20 to get to my daughter's. Normally a 45 minute drive.🦃
  3. Okay, I'm going to be the outlier here...... and yes, I am 73!
  4. Welcome Yoshimi! I've been to Japan twice as a guest of Taimiya and have always been amazed by the state of modeling there. So many models and stores to pick from, but you are indeed in the minority. I don't recall seeing NASCAR anywhere. We share a common problem(but a mirror image) in that my prefered build is either non-USA cars or F1 both of which are in the minority here. Hot Rods, muscle cars and NASCAR are the bulk of the auto building community. I still order most of my models and parts from Hobby Link Japan. Welcome and I am sure you will see much here that fits your interests. I look forward to seeing your builds.
  5. I have schlepped models all over the country, often flying, which is particularly risky because of aircraft vibration. Here are my rules. 1. Never let the wheels of a model support the weight of the model. I always put a piece of foam under the model so the chassis is supporting the model and not the wheels. Often I will cut a piece of foam to the outside dimensions of the carrying case ahd then then cut out holes for the wheels. This is the bottom layer. 2. Once the base piece of foam is done, I secure the model with a piece of 1/2" to 3/4" super smooth ribbon. The stuff is dirt cheap at the fabric store. The piece is secured to the bottom foam with t-pins and the ribbon wrapped across the roof of the model and secured on the other side. 3. I get our my 1/2" pick and pluck foam. This is foam that has been cut into squares that can easily be torn off to accommodated odd shapes. You will often see it in things like Pelican cases to protect expensive camera gear. I then pull apart pieces with the exterior dimension the same as the container I am transporting the models in. I remove sections that are just wide enough to clear the model. The first layer is the one you create in rule 1. The second surrounds the body of the model as closely as possible. I allow places for things like rear view mirrors. The top sheet is torn to remove only the foam to accommodate any model parts sticking above the middle layer layer like radio antennas or light bars. 4. Once this "model sandwich" is complete, I put it in the carrying container and put a lid on it. Ideally, the containers' lid will fit so there is light pressure on the foam. Then it is time to go. Hope this helps.
  6. For and twenty black birds, .. oh, ..wrong 4
  7. Mutt and Jeff was one of my old time favorite cartoons!
  8. Experience the joy of model building by stopping the waste of time this game is.
  9. City street courses are best for F1.
  10. Roam, isn't that a town in New york?
  11. Remember, on eBay anyone can ask whatever they want in the hopes of catching a sucker! I always look at the "sold" section to see what they are really going for.
  12. Randy, as usual great work. Your hammer work is just beyond reproach. Amazing stuff. Your cooling lines look great! Thought I might throw an idea out there for you. I have some "German silver" wire that I use for things like that. I used it for the water manifold on my Bugatti engine. It solders up amazingly well with silver solder and it polishes up very well. Perhaps something to add to your already well stocked arsenal of modeling supplies.
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