3 is the faster setting. I use them based on the size of the piece I am joining and the longer it takes the solvent the dissipate the more plastic it melt and deforms the piece. Quick set is best on smaller pieces. Larger pieces that may have a support function, like landing gear on an aircraft, I use the slower set to make sure I get a complete bond. They still both set very quickly and are very thin. They will flow into a seam very well and make a fine bond. If you don't want a lot of ooze then use 3.
I use both Weld-on 3 and 4. Different speeds of curing. 4 oz tins of the stuff are handy and if this is the first time you have used them, this is a good size for your first purchase. After that I buy the quart size which runs me $15 Which is much less expensive than the ones packaged for model building. I just picked them up the other day and keep my 4 oz. bottles topped up. They evaporate very quickly, so keep the lid on the jar. A 4 oz. tin will evaporate over night.
Grex uses O-rings? Hmmmm, I guess they are off my list. I have a Badger, and several Tamiya/Iwata brushes and guns and they all have Teflon seals. No problem with lacquers. Does Grex make a Teflon replacement? Most companies do. You might try that first. Call Coast Air Brush in Anaheim. http://www.coastairbrush.com/ They would know for sure. Very helpful and knowledgeable when you need help with air brushes.
There is a difference between reuse and recycle. Glass is recycled every day and is a very useful product that way. Reusing a glass bottle involves cleaning, sterilizing(for food use) and inspecting to make sure it isn't chipped or cracked and is safe for reuse. All items that have a cost associated with them. Recycling involves throwing them in a pile and feeding them into a furnace to melt them down for reuse. A much smaller process. If you are talking about paint bottles, then you have to involve solvents to dissolve the paint and those are generally petroleum based. Then you get into local VOC regulations etc etc. What starts out as a good idea generally gets to the point that it just costs too much. Incidentally, it is the packaging costs that drives the cost of model paints. Example Alclad runs about $8 and ounce. Reasonable price right? Well, I can often pick up a quart of Mirrachrome(automotive chrome paint) for about $150 which is a little more than half the price of Alclad and will give you all the chrome you need for your lifetime and the lifetime of your kids and grand kid. Per ounce a gallon is even cheaper. Get all your friends together, by a gallon and repackage it to split it.
At the risk of being redundant I have a few things to say about both. Both are tools. Nothing more nothing less and as such each can have it's place in a modelers arsenal of tools. They are by no means and "either/or" tool. In other words, each has very specific purposes and is best at a particular task and you get different results from each. It is important to say this because rattle cans vary from manufacture to manufacture and even within a given line. For instance, Tamiya TS paints are acrylic lacquers and Tamiya has engineered the nozzles to spray at a generally higher volume than other manufactures. Their paints are also mixed so that they flow out rather quickly and flash off a little slower than some so that you get a good even glossy finish. The Tester cans, also lacquers, spray a finer mist that is more atomized so the coverage per pass is a little more even. The same is true with airbrushes. By construction, they can be designed to paint everything from very fine line less that 1/64" to over a 3" wide fan. They are also designed to spray paints at various viscosities and particle sizes. In other words, all airbrushes are not the same and you may need several to do all the jobs you may want to do with them. This is why some come with a combination of needles and nozzles. It is also why paints come in different viscosities and with different particle sizes. Honestly, no one can definitively tell another person the one is better than another. All they can say is that they have developed techniques to use what they choose that work for them. Everyone needs to use what they can get the best results for them. Personally, I have four different airbrushes and each as a specific use that does a particular task for me. I also have stacks and stacks of rattle cans that also have a purpose. Some times that purpose is just to decant so I can spray them through an air brush, others are for a particular color and sheen that I use frequently in small amounts, such as Tamiya Semi-gloss black for engine parts. It is just more convenient to rattle can a sprue all at once and be done with it, rather than getting involved with cleaning an airbrush. The use of airbrushes does not mean the death of rattle cans. They are complementary tools that each modeler can put to good use if they choose to. That is my story and I am sticking too it!
Very nice build. Super clean and well presented. Love this kit. A couple of the photos show the one mistake that I think Tamiya made with this kit. You can see the seat backs are hollow through the rear window. I don't understand why Tamiya would go to all the efforts that they did and not give you a simple panel to fill in the back of the seat. Another option would be to include the custom luggage that you could get with the real car.
Oh, yea, the super guppy. Designed to haul parts of the Saturn launch system. Of course a C-5 and the Airbus 380 aren't far off Just a side point. Aerodynamically the egg doesn't work in aircraft because of induced drag and the area rule. That is, drag at any cross section of an aircraft is directly proportional to the area of that cross section. This is why many high speed aircraft have a Coke bottle shape. Aerodynamicists pay a great deal of attention to the area rule.
Not feeling it so much. I did my time in snow. My first year at the University of Wyoming. Snowed so heavily that looking at the parking lot at the student dorms, all you could see were radio antenna and the car tops. Snow totally filled in every space between the cars. Had to get them out one at a time starting at the end. I remember driving over I-80 from Cheyenne to Laramie with so much snow on the road that you just drove between the side markers. There was no bare highway to see the road. 1973 - Del Rio,Texas. Never snowed there. It did the year I was in pilot training. All of west Texas shut down. Michigan February 1977. Snow 4 feet deep on the level. High temp for the month -17. Left and never wanted to go back. Yea, I've had my fill of snow, wind and cold. Just plan happy to live in SoCal! Yea, it gets down to freezing occasionally, but I keep the old snow shovel in the garage just to remind myself why I live here, with all it's warts.
The beauty of their statement is that is limits the item by very little. Let's see, Italian track only. That would be Lancia, Fiat, Maserati, Alfa, Lamborghini oh, yea and that other company Ferrari. Since the did a 300SL I would love to see something of the same era and there are really only a couple of hundred to choose from. Honestly, I cant wait to find out!
Not quite true. MFH stopped making 1:20 scale Ferraris. They kept the license to make 1:12 scale and have several in that scale including a 312 and GTO. I suspect it was a matter of changing the ratio of license cost per kit. The 1:20 kits run $120 to $180. The 1:12 scale kits are in the $600 to $800 range depending on the exchange rate.
This is my method. 1. Cover the emblem with Bare Metal foil. Use a piece about twice the size of the emblem. Burnish is down well. 2. Put a thick layer of white, Elmer's school glue, over it and let it dry. 3. Mix up a good size glob of two part putty and make a handle and stick it to the white glue. Let it harden. 4. After everything is set, use the putty handle to remove the BMF. This is now your mold. 5. Fill the cavity in the BMF with thick super glue and let it harden. Do not use kicker! Let is harden naturally. 6. Once the glue is hard, get a good flat file or sanding stick and sand the back flat and even it up to get rid of the excess BMF so you just see an outline around your emblem. 7. Put it is a cup of hot water and leave it until the white glue dissolves. Your emblem with drop out and you will have a foiled emblem ready to attach. Good Luck!