Chris, thanks for the complement but frankly, I use Tim and Randy as a resource. They are way ahead of me, but they are really great at sharing and giving solid advise. It is just great to even be mentioned in the same sentence with them. Thanks.
Started work on the superchargers. This is the second crack at it. Not good enough yet and I have to make two of them. Still learning a lot about using a four jaw chuck and rotary table to make the piece and get the grooves evenly spaced. Back to the bench!
It really depends upon the paint, but here is something to consider. Have you ever used acetone to clean your hands and after a couple of seconds that that weird taste in your mouth? Well that the the chemical going through your skin and through your blood stream to your mouth. Same thing with paint. Your skin is a semipermeable membrane and some very bad things can get through it and mess up your liver, brain and kidneys over time. If you are young now and don't protect those organs, you may be lucky to live long enough to regret it. In that respect it is a little like tobacco. No noticeable effect from this exposure today or maybe the next, but 20 or 30 years down the road you may wish you hadn't take a little bit of care now.
Tim, Thank you. It is good to be back on the bench. You and Randy's posts kept me interested though the wood project. It is quite a stretch for me to see what you do. Thanks for being here and showing the way! I have two more strips to do so I will shoot the "in progress" part tonight or tomorrow. As to the desk, it is exactly the same challenges as model building. You are just working in a different material. The mental gymnastics are the same. Oh, and bigger tools. Much bigger tools.
Thank you Randy. It is great to be back at the bench again. It took a little time to blow the cobwebs out of the brain to get it thinking in terms of machining again. The one thing I am not fond of with Shereline is that it is .050 per turn and I have to keep track of the turns. It would be far easier if it was .100 per turn but then it wouldn't be as precise. Two models you are doing. They keep me motivated to stretch my limits.
Hmmmm....... very interesting. I have not seen aluminum soldered before. It looks quite messy and like there is a lot of filing and sanding involved. It also looks like I need to get a dapping block set. BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH, another tool!
Tim, this stuff in legendary! Seriously nice work. I have been following for the last couple of months but not posted for fear of being chastised for not being at the bench. Now that I am back, I can be a bit more vocal. Great work. I look forward to each installment. Pete
Ok, back on the bench again making little bitty parts. These are the seals that run the length of the valve covers. They are used where two pieces of sheet metal join on the real car. The brass strips are .030" wide and the holes are made with #79 wire gauge bits. The bolts are from RB Motion, and yes, I could make them but as Robert makes such wonderful parts at a reasonable price(well that is a mater of perspective) why would I spend my time making them.
For those who were wondering where i have been for months, here is a photo of my other project. I have been working with wood for 40 years and still tackle large projects like this built in desk. Thanks for looking.
Ok, here is a little advise that most people(machinist included) don't know. Starrett has a repair facility in Massachusetts. They will repair any of their tools for a reasonable price to like new condition and re-certify the accuracy to a new standard. I have a lot of broken Starrett tools that I have picked up off the internet really cheap and had them repaired. With shipping and repair cost you will almost always be less that half the cost of new and I have always been very satisfied. I use my 8" dial calipers all the time and love them. There is a difference in Starrett or Mitutoyo tools that is worth paying the price for. Yes, you can get a cheap pair from the swap meet or Harbor Freight but it you have that and a Starrett pair in you hand, you will immediately know the difference. The good ones are very smooth and easy to adjust. Since you now need accuracy, spend the money.
Hmmmm, interesting question. I've done some pretty expensive builds by the standards of the prior comments, but I know a lot several people who share my approach. First off, I get the greatest thrill out of new skills that I develop along the way and sometimes that requires buying and learning to use a new tool. Do you include the cost of tools in a build? Having said that I have built two Tamiya 1:12 scale Porsche 935's with the Scale Motorsport super detail sets. Gross cost for both of the the kits new, is in excess of $700. Midway through the first one, my old Badger 175 gave up the ghost and I dropped another couple of hundred on a new Iwata HVLP mini gun. Into the second one, I also picked up a Sherline lathe to add some parts that were needed. A lot of money spent on a hobby, but then I have all the tools and by buying good ones, I don't ever need to replace them. The metal working skills I developed along the way, bring me a lot of pleasure and pride. It took me years to build those two models and I got a huge amount of pleasure out of it along the way. My net cost per hour of fun was pretty low if you want to look at it that way. What I have learned along the way is that it it is all about having a passion for what you are building. There are a lot of models out there that i just have no interest in building. No offense to these classes but I would not waste my money on a NASCAR, rat rod or a tuner. No personal interest and building one would be drudgery for me. When I build I want to learn about the 1:1 and then replicate it as close as possible. That is my style.
As someone who is two years your senior, I appreciate your problem. The solution is not a method but a glue. There are a number of water soluble glues out there that work very well for holding small parts. Zap Formula 560, Microscale Kristal Klear are just a couple. These are white glues(PVA) that dry clear but clean up with water. Just a quick swipe with a wet Qtip and you are done. They are not as quick or as strong as super glues(CA) but will do just fine on bumpers or mirrors. I like the Formula 560 because it gets tacky very quickly and will hold the part without you having to hold it in place for a long time. By the way, Formula 560 is often referred to as "canopy glue" as it was formulated for holding R/C aircraft canopies without getting all messy. Because of this you will have to venture into the R/C section of your hobby store to find it. My other favorite glue is also in the R/C section. That is Polyzap. A nonfogging CA that seems to last a long time without kicking off. Good luck and I hope this helps.