The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
Not unusual, especially if you rescribed the panel lines. They often refer to this as ghosting and it happens with body work of all kinds. The lacquer thinner in both the Dupli Color and Tamyia s causing the plastic to swell where the orignial surface was disturbed or where the plastic came together in the mold. Several light coats of paint, allowed to dry for a couple of days should stop that, but if you spray a heavy or "wet" coat on at the end, the lines may come back. If it is not metalic paint, you can sand and recoat but build up the paint first so you are not spraying on raw plastic. That will only make the problem worse. A little trick to over come this is thin super glue. A very light coat will protect the areas you worked and stop this, but you need to do that before you prime it. I also make sure I soak putty with super glue after it is sanded and cured. That helps seal it and it sticks to the plastic better.
Just a bit of information on compressors that you might find useful. Most of the "home" or garage type of small compressors are made my Ingersol-Rand and rebranded under a lot of other names like Craftsman, Dewalt, Campbell Hausfeld, etc. This shell game has been going on for years. Not that it is bad, but if you know about it, you can often get a good deal on a quality compressor without having to spend the money for a name. A quick eyeball of the actual compressor and the pressure regulators will tell you a lot, especially if you can compare them side by side.
Wow, that is a loaded question. First the compressor. Any source of compressed air will work but the best is a source that gives you a consistent volume and pressure. That can be anything from a soda fountain container of CO2 to a huge commercial compressor. Most airbrush compressors will work to give you what you need to run an airbrush and only an airbrush. The kicker is that they are nearly silent and can be used in a room without disturbing anyone. You do pay a price for that quiet. If noise isn't much of an issue, any quality regular shop compressor with a storage tank will do the same thing, but they are generally not quiet. They also can generally do things like fill up tires and run some air tools. They are also relatively cheap. You can pick up a nice little pancake compressor(pancake refers to the shape of the storage tank) for around $150 or less. You will also need a moisture trap with them. I generally don't recommend getting a airbrush/compressor combination as there is no advantage to it. There is no such thing as a compatibility issue with the two. As long as the compressor gives you the air you need then it doesn't matter who made it. Oh just to make you smile, I had a hook up for a while when I was starting out, that used a spare tire for the air source. That was back when you could buy a spare tire and rim for about $20 and gas stations would let you fill them for free. Sounds funny but it worked. Now, on to the airbrush. You will get all kinds of advise here from Harbor freight cheapies to high end professional models. If you haven't worked with one before the get one with a lot of flexibility. That means a double action with changeable tips and needles. The best example I can give is the Badger 175 Crescendo. The best set has three tips, hose and a couple of jars and can be had for less than $125. The one down side is that it doesn't have an adjustable needle stop, but for a first airbrush it give you a lot of adjustment and it is a good middle of the road quality brush. Parts are also very available. Personally I own 4 airbrushes because each one of them does a couple of things better than the others. One of those is my trusty old Crescendo and by old I mean well over 20 years old. It has been rebuilt several times but it still fills a spot in my suite of brushes. It is a good starter set. I am sure there are others that do as well, but it is the one I am most familiar with.
Art's comment means I should make a similar statement about my on post. Micro surface sanding sticks are intended to be used wet. I use a distilled water with a little alcohol to break the surface tension of the water and they will last a long time.
Yup, that's the place. This is the source for them. They are the ones that make them. One tip. First time it is worth it to buy a few of the tri-grit ones. That way you can get a feel for what you need most. Then on the reorder, buy the single grit ones. I found after using the tri- or dual grits one is was using one part far more that the other and would wind up keeping a lot of sticks around because one part was still good, but the other was shot. Oh and by the way, I generally put together a group order with friends and buy them 100 at a time. That way I reduce the per unit cost of shipping. I've been buying from them for over 20 years. Good people.
Here is a little hint for you. When you make your own decals on a inkjet printer, they give you a fixative to spray over the decal. That fixative is most often a fast drying lacquer. You can clear coat with just about anything as long as you go very light and let it dry. 10 minutes is not enough. Over night for lacquers is about right. One very very light coat then another and build up about three light coats. That way the solvent in your final coats will not dissolve the top coats and cause them to wrinkle. Be patient. If you get in a hurry trouble will follow.
I am surprised that no one has mentioned The Italian Job. A bunch of Mini's running around like they are nuts. That would be both versions. Also one of my favorites but it doesn't necessarily fit and that is the Steve McQueen motorcycle chase in The Great Escape. Also almost every Bond Film ever made had at least one great motor vehicle chase, whether it be car, aircraft or boat.
These guys are right, there is no "one size fits all" formula because there are way to many variables. Here is a list. Paint viscosity, paint density, airbrush nozzle size, air pressure, temperature, humidity, thinner formula and type of gun. I am sure there are some I am leaving out here but that is the majority. First you have to decide if this is going to be something you are going to use over the long haul or is this a one time deal. If it is not a one time deal, then get a notebook and start keeping notes. Choose the airbrush and nozzle you are going to use and pick an air pressure. Do not vary these once you start to test. Then measure your proportions carefully. 50/50 is a good place to start. Then do a test. Are you getting good atomization and is the paint arriving at the surface with sufficient thinner to not give you orange peel, but not so much that it runs. If not increase or decrease the thinner and try again. Keep doing this until you get the finish that you want. Then don't change them when you paint. Too many people tend to fiddle with all the settings every time and never really get an idea of what really works. If you change two or more settings you never can decide which one did what you wanted. Paint is a science if handled that way. If not then it is black magic. Oh and by the way, I paint with DuPont Auto lacquer and my mix ration is 5:1 or 6:1. This is because the paint comes out of the can like honey but it is really good quality paint. This is really the extreme that I am talking about.
Steve, I have four air driven painting tools. Tamiya HG, Tamiya super HG, Badger 175 and an Iwata HPL-50. Each is unique in it's own right and does a particular type of painting better than the others. None is a good universal tool that does everything. In my mind it is very much like having a drawer full of screw drivers. Yes, you can drive a phillips head screw with a flat blade screw driver but it isn't the best tool for the job any more than the wrong sized phillips head screw driver is the best tool for the job. But it is also like comparing a DIY handyman to a machinist. Each has different needs to do the work to their satisfaction. The DIY guy doesn't need the precision of a dial caliper to measure the fit of a coat hook, but the tape measure that the DIY guy uses wouldn't work for the pricision that a machinist uses. Each owns tools appropriate to the job and skill level that they need. Same with airbrushes. I use my Iwata for putting a good lacquer finish on large areas such as 1:12 scale auto bodies. I would go nuts trying to do it with my super HG. Where the Iwata does it in three passes it would take hundred with the super HG. Having said that do I believe that every builder needs four or five airbrushes. No. I have them because I want to do modeling to my standard and having four aids me in accomplishing that. It also has taken a lot of time and effort to learn the proper way to use each of these tools. The finish I want requires that . That is why I like having multiples and I didn't mind spending the money for them. Not a choice that everyone can or would make.
If this is a true HVLP(high velocity, low pressure) then I do have quite a bit of experience with it. I originally bought mine when my Badger 175 went up and I had several 1:12 scale autos to build. It has proven to be a very useful tool, but I have to say, I didn't buy a cheap one. I bought the Iwata HLP-50 and it was a couple of hundred but that was a long time ago. To go into a huge explanation of what an HVLP gun is and how it works would take several pages, but luckily Paul Budzig has just added a YouTube video on the subject. Here it is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zs89hoyNM0 Now a few personal bits. This is a very precise tool and requires some work to master. It works similar to an airbrush but there is a lot about it that is different. I will leave that up to Paul to explain but I will say this. I bought the Iwata with three different tips and use all of them a lot. The Iwata's sweet spot is about 13 psi but it takes some doing to adjust the paint and the three different air adjustments to get it right. I like the Iwata because you can get an attachment that lets it use the standard siphon feed airbrush bottle which is very handy. It also makes it easy to keep a spare bottle of thinner around to clean it up at the end of use. Knowing what I do about this tools, $20 seems too good to be true and this doesn't look like a true HVLP gun. One too few adjustment so it may just be a cheap touchup gun but for $20 what do you have to loose. If it doesn't work but you need that type of work done, then you paid $20 for a lesson. Good Luck!