All the model polishing kits have micromesh pads and sticks. Here is the direct source. I've been bypassing the "model" polishing kit makers and buying direct for years. They will sell you 1 or 10,000 or a 50' roll. Skip the middle man and get what you need.
One other piece to this is the size of your avatar. I have found that to get it to work size wise a 1"X1" at 100 dpi hits the correct size. Otherwise it is too large. I use Photoshop to reduce it but any photo editing software should work.
Ok, you can't select a needle size based on the solvent you are using. It is not the solvent that determines the size of tip used. It is the size of the pigment grains. A better example would be to talk for a moment about acrylics. Model acrylics tend to have very small pigment size. Acrylic house paint has very large pigment sizes. You would never ever get house paint through the typical airbrush, but both are "Acrylics". Same with Lacquers. The only way to know is to get the paint you want to spray and try it. As to the needle, having an extra needle and tip will never be a bad thing and they are not that pricy. I would suggest get both and try them on the different paints that you use and see how they work. This is like discussing compressor pressure. No one can give you a pat answer. You have to work with what you have and try it until you get what you works for you. By the way, I have four airbrushes and each of them has a different size tip, uses a different pressure and feed system. They all serve a purpose. Not a single one of them does everything I want well, thus multiples. Oh, and two of them have three different needles and tips each. This probably doesn't give you a direct answer to the question you asked, (Is .35 mm or .50 mm big enough or should I go to another airbrush with a larger needle size?) but it is the answer.
Well said! The graininess is due to it not having time to self level. This is solved two ways. 1) add the correct thinner. 2) hold the brush closer to the surface. Both will get the paint to the surface with more solvents still active, however by moving closer, you will also shrink the size of the spray pattern and put more paint on. Thus if you want to lay down thin layers the best solution is to thin the paint for the distance that you normally paint from. A larger needle and tip is nessesary for the size of the grains of pigment. Very fine pigments such as inks need very small needle/tips. Heavier paint such as automotive lacquers have larger grain and need larger needle/tips. Most acrylics also need a larger needle/tip combination. Finding a happy medium that works with most of your paints is the challenge.
As a contest judge, the wires do present an issue but not so much from drape. If you google drag engines of the era, you will see two things. Most of the wires coming out of the distributor/magneto have a right angle or elbow style boot and the boots at the spark plug end almost never extend much beyond the valve covers. These two issues give what my friend Drew Hierwarter use to call the tarantula look. Plug wires generally lay close to the engine. There are exceptions but for the most part this is the way they are wired. You have a very nice model here. The paint and metal work are both outstanding!
My guess is we were in competition. The last two I bid on went for $96.22 and $61.70 after shipping and I was in it to the last bid. It is weird, the convertible cover looks like a resin piece to me. If you don't have a use for the original roof, would you be willing to pass it on? As I said, I have the rest of the kit and want to build my first car, a coupe with the 200 CID six.
Ok, this is the mustang kit I am talking about. I have an automatic search on eBay and it comes up maybe once a year and it almost always goes for near $100. Fastbacks are a dime a dozen but the coupe, now that is a rare horse.
I have to say the '69 Mustang coupe/convertible. I wanted a coupe to build stock(my first car in Wimbledon white). I got one and paid a pretty penny for it. The guy that sold it to me negelected to tell me that he had used the top and cast it in resin and included that. The top of course is badly cast and warped. Been trying to get a complete one ever since and always out bid by a bunch!
Ok, this is all a tempest in a teapot! 1:24-1:25 is irrelevant. All that matters is the diameter of the rim and the inside diameter of your tires. I just went out to my stash of old tires and found a dozen that would work. Some a little tighter that others but they would work. Some of them were even 1:20 scale(F1 tires) and would work great if you want some supersized slicks. It is just annoying how some people get so engrossed in "scale" when it comes down to what will fit and to expect a company to list all the available tires that will fit is unrealistic. If you are looking through your stash to find something that will fit, then measuring them isn't that hard.