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Pete J.

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About Pete J.

  • Birthday 11/05/1949

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    San Marcos, Ca
  • Full Name
    Pete Johnson

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  1. I learned a long time ago that you can use the box art(especially Tamiya's side panels) to do plan modifications before you start chopping up plastic. This is one that I did years ago. The roof is chopped, the body sectioned and the bumpers were tucked in.
  2. 1,000 hours in the KC-135. Took this photo back in 1979 of early morning heavy weight take off out of Fairchild. In the lower right you can just make out the Tanker ready to go.
  3. Nice replica of a Linebacker big belly buff. Saw more of these than I wanted to! This model had water burning engines that made a heck of a noise and a ton of smoke on takeoff. Scariest thing you could do short of combat was a minimal interval take off(MITO). 4 to 6 of these along with the same number of KC-135s rolling down the runway at 15 to 30 second intervals. On calm days you couldn't see 50 yards down the runway!
  4. I agree. I am just surprised to see that much drop on an airbrush. They generally don't have enough flow to make that big of a difference. I have to use this method for my Baby Iwata touchup gun(For large scale models). The basic pressure of the gun needs to be set to 13psi wide open.
  5. Hmmm... interesting. That much of a compressor shouldn't drop at all on an airbrush, so I suspect your regulator may be at fault. I would suggest an inline pressure valve like this Iwata inline MAC valve. You run the basic line pressure at a higher level and use the MAC valve to reduce it at the brush. You can get a very small gauge to determine the pressure after the valve. Set it with the brush air open all the way.
  6. Even with a drawer full of clamps/clips, you can never have enough!🤪
  7. I agree with most of what you said. I really don't care that much about the price as it is such a small portion of the total spent on a build. However, if you read my original post, and not just this one out of context, you only need two 10ml bottles of LP to get 40ml of paint. I believe LP is suppose to be thinned 50/50
  8. Ok, that bumps it up to $1.56 for 10ml of paint as opposed to $2 for 10ml out of the spray can. Still cheaper than decanting rattle cans. To be forthright about rattle cans, I thin the decanted results a little so the net price is probably pretty similar. So it comes down to decanting rattle cans if you can't find the color you want in LP.
  9. I have been struggling to come up with the actual cost of the LP bottles . I have heard that the proper thinning ratio is 50% paint, 50% thinner. If that is the case then that comes out to $1.25 per 10ml. The rattle cans would be $2 for 10ml. I would love to stop decanting rattle cans, but I am kind of use to doing that and I have not had occasion to use the LP's yet.
  10. Thank you. More brass work to come.
  11. pretty sure I have seen this one. Now I just need to find it!
  12. Appreciate the suggestion. I to have done this and will probably use it for rear hood. The issue with the doors is that they are not an offset hinge like this. They are a piano hinge that runs the lower part of the door and are not really hidden, just flush with edge. Since the car was in production from 1948 to 1990 there are a plethora of door opening. I suspect a lot of the hinging process is a function of what hinge was available. Some have suicide doors on the front or rear and all other combinations. I chose having them both hinged on the B pillar as this was the combination at appealed to me. It also worked out from a builders perspective because the B pillar is very thin and it plastic not very stable. I could replace it with brass and improve the structural integrity of the model. When done, the doors will open and close without having to worry about snapping the pillar.
  13. Very true, but bubbles in the cup is almost always a problem with the needle seal. Most often a result of solvents acting on the seal. Some brushes come with solvent proof seals others don't. Replacing the seal with often solve the issue. Most brush repair places have solvent proof replacement seals. Also the seal will wear out over time. Many airbrushes have a compression fitting that will squeeze the seal for a tighter fit. I also use airbrush lubricant after every cleaning. Helps the seal last longer and improves the "feel" of the action.
  14. An orange McLaren, yellow Lamborghini, a dayglo green Auston Martin, 5 Ferrari's in black and red, and umteen hundred Porsches in all flavors. Yup, just another trip up the 405 and 101 from San Diego to Camarillo to pickup the grandson.
  15. Hmmm, interesting. I may order a set just to see how they work. I think I am stuck with this design for now, but thanks for the information.
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