Pete J.

1969 Ford Aurora II. Google lens never fails!

Welcome Yoshimi! I've been to Japan twice as a guest of Taimiya and have always been amazed by the state of modeling there. So many models and stores to pick from, but you are indeed in the minority. I don't recall seeing NASCAR anywhere. We share a common problem(but a mirror image) in that my prefered build is either non-USA cars or F1 both of which are in the minority here. Hot Rods, muscle cars and NASCAR are the bulk of the auto building community. I still order most of my models and parts from Hobby Link Japan. Welcome and I am sure you will see much here that fits your interests. I look forward to seeing your builds.

I have schlepped models all over the country, often flying, which is particularly risky because of aircraft vibration. Here are my rules. 1. Never let the wheels of a model support the weight of the model. I always put a piece of foam under the model so the chassis is supporting the model and not the wheels. Often I will cut a piece of foam to the outside dimensions of the carrying case ahd then then cut out holes for the wheels. This is the bottom layer. 2. Once the base piece of foam is done, I secure the model with a piece of 1/2" to 3/4" super smooth ribbon. The stuff is dirt cheap at the fabric store. The piece is secured to the bottom foam with t-pins and the ribbon wrapped across the roof of the model and secured on the other side. 3. I get our my 1/2" pick and pluck foam. This is foam that has been cut into squares that can easily be torn off to accommodated odd shapes. You will often see it in things like Pelican cases to protect expensive camera gear. I then pull apart pieces with the exterior dimension the same as the container I am transporting the models in. I remove sections that are just wide enough to clear the model. The first layer is the one you create in rule 1. The second surrounds the body of the model as closely as possible. I allow places for things like rear view mirrors. The top sheet is torn to remove only the foam to accommodate any model parts sticking above the middle layer layer like radio antennas or light bars. 4. Once this "model sandwich" is complete, I put it in the carrying container and put a lid on it. Ideally, the containers' lid will fit so there is light pressure on the foam. Then it is time to go. Hope this helps.

For and twenty black birds, .. oh, ..wrong 4

Mutt and Jeff was one of my old time favorite cartoons!

Experience the joy of model building by stopping the waste of time this game is.

City street courses are best for F1.

Roam, isn't that a town in New york?

Remember, on eBay anyone can ask whatever they want in the hopes of catching a sucker! I always look at the "sold" section to see what they are really going for.

Randy, as usual great work. Your hammer work is just beyond reproach. Amazing stuff. Your cooling lines look great! Thought I might throw an idea out there for you. I have some "German silver" wire that I use for things like that. I used it for the water manifold on my Bugatti engine. It solders up amazingly well with silver solder and it polishes up very well. Perhaps something to add to your already well stocked arsenal of modeling supplies.

Think I got it.

Very nice rendition of this classic kit! Where did you get the rims? They are most certainly not the kit rims.

Don't know. The Pledge multi-surface floor finish is currently available in retail stores or amazon. Why would you mess with something else.

Pascal - Thanks for telling me. No wonder it looks so real. They are real. I thought you had figured out how to paint them! I have seen so many airbrushed exhausts the just look terrible, I was hoping you had cracked the code. Oh, well, back to the bench! Thanks.

Beautiful work!! One question. That is the most realistic heat staining on the exhaust I have ever seen. Would you mind sharing your process?

Future has had a number of different names but the formula is pretty consistent with each iteration. I believe it is currently Pledge Multi-Surface Floor Finish You can still find a bottle of the original on the internet but they are expensive.

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Years ago, when we had a club that met at the Tamiya USA HQ, once a year Tamiya would clean out it's spare parts room. It was open kits that were cannibalized to send parts to customers. The boxes may have a sprue missing or it could be a random bunch of parts. They would bring them out at the club and everyone at the meeting drew a number from a hat. Then we went in order . We could select a box. No peeking inside the box. You got what you got. Then we got to cycle through until all the boxes were gone. The next meeting we all had to build something that was from parts in the boxs. It was always fun to build and see what others built.

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Just a thought on the areas you mention. When sanding around sharp lines the that, use some good masking tape and apply it so it just overlaps the top. This way you are less likely to burn through the high spots. I also do this on the edge of body lines. Nobody is going to notice the edge is not as smooth as the larger panels. At least not as much as a burn through.

Thanks for the response. I would really have no idea were to begin looking. As I said, I am not really into 3D printing, I was just hoping some like you would come along to do the job. I am here whenever you get ready to do one.

That is spot on! Are you interested in printing a 1/12 and 1/24 scale version? The ZG 1:12 if I recall is the fairlady with clear headlight covers and a JDM front clip. I bought the west africa safari kit to get the correct front end for the US version. I bought them to try and replicate my 1972 240Z. The one car I wished I had kept and not sold though by now I am sure it would have been a rusted hulk. I spent 5 years in northern Michigan. The winters are absolutely hell on cars.

I am certainly not an expert at 3D printing. In fact I am not even a novice. Having said that, one of the biggest knocks on every 240Z/fairlady model I have ever seen is that they are all right hand drive! Would it be so difficult to scan an original part convert it as a mirror image for left hand drive and print that?? I have multiple kits in both 1/12 scale(Tamiya) and 1/24th scale(several manufatures) and would be interested in such pieces. I have no idea if anyone else would be interested in such a part. I can only speak for me. I would love to have one in both scales and would be willing to send a part for scanning if someone were interested.

This perfectly explains the post office situation!

Well, that is certainly not stock on a GTO.😉