Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Straightliner59

  • Birthday 03/20/1959

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Arvada, CO
  • Full Name
    Daniel Himmel

Contact Methods

  • Facebook
    Daniel Himmel

Recent Profile Visitors

7,573 profile views

Straightliner59's Achievements

MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. Okay. I have been meaning to do this, since I was running the old SLM website. Since this dragster needs a new body, now seems as good a time as any. It'll take a few installments, but, if you're interested in building aluminum dragster bodies, you'll at least have a few ideas, to get started. First and foremost, I would suggest reading and familiarizing yourself with the information Tom Hanna (Hey! Who better ya' gonna' learn from?) imparts in the following articles: A couple of quick thoughts and photos of annealing. First, because of the torch I have on hand, I cut a two-inch strip off the end of the flashing that I drew the body lines on. This provides enough annealed sheet to make both sides of the cockpit section of the body, yet, this section of sheet is small enough to heat quickly enough to anneal, without burning it. That happens, quickly! Anyhoo...simply apply Ivory soap to the sheet by rubbing it on. Get close to a source of water, or a vessel large enough to hold water enough to easily submerge your heated sheet. This needs to happen quickly! Apply heat with the torch until the soap "flashes" black (dark brown), and quench it, immediately. Your sheet is now annealed. In the photo, here, the sheet has (of course) been quenched, which rinses most of the soot from the material. My second note regards cutting the sheet. Lay the side of the sheet you'll be using, flat, atop the blade of the scissors. Cutting in this manner maintains a flat edge on the "good" side, and curls the falloff. I think the photos will be sufficient to illustrate. Questions, comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!
  2. Well...I am having a helluva struggle with my front wheel. I wasn't happy with the first mold--or wheel, so I made a new wheel. I am in the process of making a second mold, as well. While that cures, I started scrubbing the plastic coating from a sheet of flashing. It's pretty hard work, and pretty messy--it's gotta be done, however! All I have, now, are photos of the "cleaned" sheet, along with the untreated sheets. Also included, are a couple of photos of the basic outline of the cockpit side panels (which will now include a roll-under, to form the floor). Next, the sheet will be annealed. Photos of that process, once it's happened...stay tuned!
  3. Lamination is an excellent way to build stuff like that. I did the pan, and the valve covers for the NFD, that way. Although, I am giving some thought to machining them from aluminum--some.😀
  4. Right on! Don't get mad, get even! I believe that's what Theune was doing. He's a complete a-hole.
  5. Thanks, so kindly, for your comments, Ian! I agree--getting a model on the wheels is kind of a big moment. When I set it aside, I think I knew that I was waiting for the day that I felt my skills had progressed to the point where I could do it, properly. I feel like I am there, for sure. The steering works flawlessly, and the rest of the parts are satisfying, to me. I'm not particularly looking forward to using all my "elbow grease", sanding the coating off the aluminum flashing, but, that's not terribly far off, now. As to the third member--I also have a photoetched Strange logo for it. I had one on, but, it went flying to, well...wherever parts go, when they fly away! I have a question--what data collection points did you install for the box on your altered? I'm just curious as to how many might be used. I know on the current (NHRA) fuel cars, there are a bazillion of them, even things like exhaust temps. I'm guessing I'll want engine RPM, output shaft RPM and wheel speed, at least. Thanks, Marcos! You're doing just fine, just keep working it, man! Don't worry about me--I'm pretty sure that I can't help myself!🤣
  6. I did some work to the axle ends. I drilled them, and added studs, in the form of Grandt Line Hex Nut/Bolt castings. I also soldered a nut to the outboard side of the steering arm. Once the shaft is cut to the proper length, I will solder the inner section of brass tube to the shaft, and the steering arm will be snugly trapped between them. That will keep the movement tight, and not sloppy. That's about it, for now. I'm just trying to get something done, every day. Thanks for looking!
  7. Amazing that he's maintained 100% positive feedback. I've heard that he somehow kind of blackmails people into it, but have no experience. I do know that I have heard nothing but bad things about him and his products for over 20 years! I also had the misfortune of talking to him on the phone, once. Struck me as a complete phony.
  8. Rush is my all-time favorite band. My two most recent completions have tributes to Neil, as well. My Supermodified has "Pratt's Olde English Inn", and my Vega Super Gas racer, "Bubba's Bar And Grille." Saw them first in May, 1978, and finally, in May 2015, with 11 other times, between.
  9. Thank you, sir. I think most of the end mills I've bought are two-flute. I have been using the mill, more and more frequently, lately. Don't worry! I have a long, long way to go, before my skills will impose any threat, to yours!😄 There really are some excellent builders, around!
  10. Thanks, man. 1/25 is what I (mostly) build. Go for it, Marcos! I'm happy to help, in any way I can. Thank you, Joe!
  11. Francis, my friend! That rear trunk panel is a thing of beauty! What size mill are you using, to get the corners so rectangular? Keep up the fantastic work!
  12. I would recommend it. I wouldn't recommend waiting for that, to start, though! Like I said--I built this entire chassis using a cheap Weller pencil-type iron. I still use it, frequently, as well. New resistance units can be very expensive. Generally, to piece a unit together, the most expensive proposition is the handset. There are instructions to build them, on the interwebs, but, if you can get a tweezers set for under a hundred bucks, you're not doing too bad. I had to make new ends for my tweezer cords, to adapt them to my unit. Anyway, if you decide to pursue it, let me know, and I'll help out as much as I can! To the subject at hand. Near as I can figure, I first began work on this project in late 1997, or early 1998. This morning is the first time, since its inception, that this dragster has stood on its own legs! What a fantastic feeling! I'm hoping to have a set of my new front wheels cast, soon. Heck, if I can find the components, I may just build a mate for the first one, and use it.. I did change up the mounting of the third-member brackets (inside from outside). I don't have the pumpkin in the car, at the moment, but, I have, so I know it fits. Once I have that installed, I will work on the brakes, and finalizing installation of the rear wheels. I have a couple of spots to clean up, as well, before I can respray the repaired areas. I may add some discoloration to the welds. That's ambitious. I'll have to give it thought. I'm very happy with the progress I've made with this heap! Please comment in whatever manner you'd like. Thanks for looking!
  13. I've been making new mounting brackets for the third-member, from aluminum. I want to get the rear axle set up, so I can put this thing on the wheels! Many of you know this, some may not: This assembly is critical, where dragsters, FCs and fuel altereds are concerned (any vehicle that's sans u-joints). It's best to rigidly mount a solid rod that represents the c/l of the drivetrain, and keeps everything aligned, horizontally(This applies to things like old Fords, with a rigid torque tube driveline, as well). I'm finding this to be a lot of work. Some of it's quite challenging. I'm having a frigging blast! Your comments, critiques and questions are always welcome. Thanks for looking!
  • Create New...