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    • Dave Ambrose

      General Usage   05/10/2017

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Everything posted by Straightliner59

  1. Chevy Monza Street Machine

    I really do have a thing for curbside models. I'm waiting to tackle a couple of clearance issues with the Chevelle, so thought I'd play with this thing, for a while. Obviously, it's a promo--I ain't afraid to modify them! I've accrued a few of them, over the years, because I've always loved the styling of this car since GM introduced it (I love Vegas, too!)--too bad the underpinnings weren't better. That said, I've also been hankering to build something road-racing inspired. I like the looks of the early Trans Am series cars. Unfortunately, by the time the Monza was introduced, "IMSA" flares were en-vogue, and I'm not nuts about those. So, I decided to build this as a street car with early T/A influences. I've removed the rear seat and covered that area. I'll probably replace the floor, as well. I've begun work on a basic rollbar assembly. It'll get a pair of racing seats, and a cleaned-up dash. I'm going with these Minilite wheels (I found them on Ebay, last year. They're very nice!). Tires are from the AMT parts packs. I will put disc brakes at all four corners--one thing I enjoy when I build curbside models is adding as much detail as I can, while still keeping it curbside (don't turn it over; it'll retain the promo chassis!) You can see the aluminum chin spoiler, and, I'll add a simple spoiler to the rear, as well. Not much done, so far, but here's a first look! Comments and questions welcome!
  2. Yesterday, I was at a Michael's store, looking for flocking. After unsuccessfully searching, I asked an employee, who referred to their computer and informed me that they didn't carry it. So, I looked in the scrapbooking, stamping and card making area, and found something called "embossing powder". I was looking for black flocking, so, I neglected to look to see if there were other colors. When i got home, I tested the embossing powder over flat black paint. I am pleased with the result! I think it looks very nice as the short pile that carpets many cars. What do you guys think? Am I all wet, on this?
  3. Only Pics of One of My Early Models

    These are the only two photos I have of one of my early efforts. I built this in about 1975, I think, from the kit pictured. I recall having to remove the rear suspension from the kit chassis and replace it with leaf springs and scratch built shackles. Like my Chevelle, I built it per NHRA's 1975 rules for Modified Production--from the same rule book I'm currently using! Anyway, the photos are barely worth sharing (the model probably wasn't that great, either!), but, I was proud of it, even so!
  4. Bill Jenkins' Black Arrow 1965 Belvedere

    Excellent work, Jim! That baby looks just right!
  5. Having recently moved back to Colorado, and finally having my workshop up and running, I came across this project I started fifteen years, ago--or so. It's AMT's '70 Malibu, to be built to comply with the NHRA's 1975 rules for Modified Production. I began by replacing the Chevelle's front inner fenderwells and front clip with those from AMT's '70 Monte Carlo, along with the Monte's front suspension including its steering box. I replaced the single-piece cast timing cover/water pump/harmonic balancer assembly with a timing cover from the parts box, a water pump from a Revell Camaro and a harmonic balancer turned from aluminum. The manifold is scratchbuilt from 23 pieces of styrene. I also deepened the sump on the oil pan. The lower control arms have been boxed, and a few minor details thrown at them. Changes to the front suspension revolve mostly around the removal of the swaybar/tierod assembly. The steering will be built to be posable. The brass pins you see will mount the steering arm and the stabilizer arm, on the opposite side. I have already built a new sway bar, but, a friend of mine questioned its necessity on a drag car, so I removed it, just in time for another friend to tell me he'd removed the one from his racer, and after one pass, decided that he wanted it back on the car! So, I am yet undecided, as to which way I'll go, in that regard. This is a mixture of photos from back when I began work on it (had a crappy camera!), and from the past few days, when I've done most of the chassis "details", and all of the engine work. Comments, compliments and poo-flinging are welcome!
  6. Figured I was far enough along to put everything together for a test fit, and put 'er on the wheels. No tierod, at this time, because I haven't assembled it with the teeny-tiny nuts and bolts, yet. I feel that moment is coming soon. I like the way it sits. It looks pretty badazz--like a '70s race car!
  7. 1962 Chevy

    That is nothing but cool, man! Subtle, low and sleek. Beautiful model!
  8. Dow7 coating

    Paul said:"This is about as close as I've been been able to get as far as used Magnesium dow coated. Its Alclad Mag over white primer. Of course the make up of the Magnesium will change the color of it" Hahahahaha! That looks almost perfect! And, that's closer than anybody else has got, as far as I've seen!
  9. Thanks, JC. Now I need to figure out my next bit of insanity!
  10. Got a bit more done! The drivetrain is assembled, complete with driveshaft loop. The interior is coming together. Seats are from a '74 Vega promo. I butchered the interior tub to extract them! I'm not sure if I'm happy with the trans u-joint. I may be able to rotate the assembly, to hide its shortcomings, but the diff yoke is tacky glued in place, at the moment.
  11. Swapped out the diff for one that's more of a Dana 60. Had never paid attention to the one in the Johan Sox and Martin, but, it's really only a Dana 60 in the rear cover. The new one is from a Monogram kit, I am pretty sure, but I'm not sure which one. Anyway, here are some shots of the new diff, with the driveshaft. I have the retainers formed for attaching the u-joint to the pinion yoke. I also got a bit farther along with the interior assembly.
  12. After a few tries, I am finally happy with this bit of weirdness! I the sixth photo down, the kit driveshaft is alongside, for size reference.
  13. What makes you decide to "curb-side" a model?

    I enjoy building curbside stuff, if I think I can generate enough visual interest. In fact, I think most of my builds are curbside, since most dragsters, especially with bodies on them don't have much of anything to look at, on their bottoms.
  14. Thanks, Ted! It's been a ton of work, but, I am happy with it, so far! After about six attempts, I finally have a pinion yoke that is small enough (the one pictured above is too big.). Going to head in and work on finishing the driveshaft, in a few.
  15. Detail Master 1427 Coolant Hose

    It appears that Slixx may have some left. http://www.slixx.com/dm-1427.htm?id=2902
  16. Dow7 coating

    I picked these up several years back at various locations (Michael's, maybe Walmart, and Crafts Direct in St. Cloud, MN). I've used them for replicating different metal finishes. Yesterday at Hobby Lobby, I saw a can of Krylon that looked as if it might be perfect for replicating newly-treated Dow 7. Sorry I can't recall the color, but it was in a large can, and looked very close, and the flake appeared more metallic than metalflake. I wish I'd picked it up.
  17. '70 Cuda T/A

    Absolutely beautiful work, JC! It sits just right; Excellent detail. Love this model!
  18. Old Monogram Midget Kit

    I started work on this almost twenty years ago, moved on to something else, and put it back in the closet. Last night, I decided to get it out and take some better photos of it. It began as Monogram's old off-scale Midget kit. Inspired by the old Belanger Special Indy car, I cut it apart and lengthened it, to better represent one of the "big cars". I am considering finishing it up, as I don't think it would require too much time (relatively speaking) to do so. The radiator is completely scratchbuilt. The firewall, hood and seat support are aluminum sheet. Evergreen styrene tube and half-round were used to represent the chassis tubing. The dash has photo-reduced gauges, is covered with "tooling aluminum" found at a crafts store, with bezels (one of which has detached and departed) made from aluminum tubing. Most of it is from the kit, with some modifications and/or enhancements. I've said before that I love these old Monogram kits! I've also been told that I do much more work on them, than they deserve! For me, they capture a real sense of Americana and nostalgia, and, given some attention, they look pretty cool, sitting in the display case. Comments and questions welcome. Thanks for having a look!
  19. Old Monogram Midget Kit

    Now that is cool, Bill! I didn't have a ton of research, when I started this, but found enough to get this close. I'm glad you like it! Thanks for saying so!
  20. Old Monogram Midget Kit

    That's cool, Art. I guess I wasn't aware that it was their first!
  21. I need to make this a tad smaller...
  22. Thanks, John. I don't have anything fancy, just a Canon inkjet and some Blingasm inkjet decal paper I found on Amazon. You need both white and clear, since the ink isn't opaque. You have to print light colors on the white, and trim right to the edge. I'd never had much luck until I did the decals for my '34.
  23. Joe, I used JB Weld to mount the "eyes" to the aluminum shocks for my Chevelle. As someone else mentioned, I generally use an XActo knife to cut tubing. For cutting this aluminum sheet, I use a fair of Fiskars' scissors. I simply make sure that the side I want to use is lying flat against the blade. It can be a tad awkward, but, it keeps the edges from deforming. Here are a couple of photos of a motor plate I cut using that method.
  24. Just a quick update with the decals I will make for this car. Looks pretty '70s, to me!
  25. Winning Ford GT's

    Beautifully constructed models and a great history lesson. Thanks for sharing! Excellent work on both counts.