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About StevenGuthmiller

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  • Location
    Hawley Minnesota
  • Full Name
    Steven Wade Guthmiller

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  1. I've never used a dehydrator to cure paint. I don't think that option was really on the radar 30 years ago when I was using enamel. I use exclusively acrylic lacquer for bodies now. No need for a dehydrator with that. Steve
  2. Testors enamel gloss is great stuff........as long as you're using it over very dark colors. Don't even try to use it over a lighter color! It yellows almost instantly. For example, if used over a nice pale blue, it will quickly become pale green! And if you do want to use it, just make sure that you have a month or two to let it cure. Steve
  3. For the past few years, I've been drilling them out and replacing them, but before that, I usually mixed some clear gloss with a tiny dab of white and used that, I still do the same for parking lights. You can even cast your own lenses from one of the UV setting glues like Laser Bond if you choose to replace them. I used Laser Bond for the lenses in my '63 Bonneville. Steve
  4. It doesn't come out of the can that shiny guys. That is the result after polishing. But it's tough as nails and looks great when finished. Steve
  5. I have used Duplicolor black with Duplicolor clear on several occasions with good results. It does require polishing, but it will give you a good shine and a durable finish. Steve
  6. Welcome Gareth. As you will soon discover, every level of skill is represented on this board, from the beginner to the advanced. Don't be afraid to post your work. From what I can see of the models posted above, you do very nice work! Steve
  7. Thank you so much folks! The body is now completely polished, cleaned and ready for foil. Steve
  8. I personally would go with Ray's suggestion, (cobraman). Or I should say that I would order a jar of Matador Red from Scale Finishes, but if I had to use a rattle can, the Chevrolet engine red would be a good choice. It looks to be very close, plus you would have plenty left to paint a boat load of Chevy engines. Steve
  9. Very well could be. The "Jalapena Red" on the chip chart doesn't appear to have any orange in it at all, but the example of the color provided by "paintref.com" is definitely orange. Almost too orange to even be called red. Steve
  10. The hue of the Chevy engine red looks very close to me, although I will agree that straight from the can it would be intense. But the '57 Nomad pictured has some patina that might tone it down. I agree completely with the Matador Red option. That is probably the color that is supposed to be represented on that car. Another good option might be 1957 Chrysler "Gauguin Red" which is also a orange-red color. They are both very attractive colors in my opinion, but unfortunately, for the OP's purposes, these colors are available from MCW or Scale Finishes in air brush form, but not readily available in a rattle can. You can obtain these colors in a spray can from one of the custom mix paint providers, but it's going to cost you $25.00 to put it in a spray can. '57 Chevy "Matador Red": 1957 Chrysler "Gauguin Red": Steve
  11. Thank you guys!! For the time being, I've decided that I need to move on to the polishing of the body. Why do I polish? Well, in short, it's because I'm not a good enough painter to get a perfect paint job straight from the can or air brush. But these photos will illustrate that you do not need to have expert painting skills to achieve a great finish. All that is required is some elbow grease and some time. I often get asked how I get my paint jobs so uniform and shiny? There is no secret. Just a little extra effort. Before: After: Steve
  12. Ray's suggestion looks very close. Testors Italian Red is too red, and Competition Orange is too orange. Steve
  13. Shut the dryer off. Who needs dry clothes when there's modeling to do! Steve
  14. I've heard of that issue as well. Don't know anything specific, but I have never used it. Masking paper and tape have always worked well for me. Steve
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