You guys are a wealth of information! Sometimes, a little too much! But seriously, at this point, I'm not going to change the finish of the steering wheel, so I guess I'll forgo any wood grain on the shifter knob. Maybe if I had known a little earlier, I could have done it a little differently. But it'll do as is. I will, more than likely, change out the shifter though.
Thanks Bill. I knew the console cars had that funky bend in them. That was part of the reason I was thinking about changing it. As far as the color of the knob goes, the one in this photo was kind of what I was going for. Most of the photos I've seen of them were pretty much "tan" like this with very little wood look. Same with the steering wheels.
I agree. The only place that I use foil under the paint is the scripts & very small parts like door & trunk locks, or those little Chrysler emblems on the lower front fender of 60s Mopars. The rest gets it over the paint. I've had very good luck with this technique. Pretty much 100%. I'm sure a lot depends on how your doing it & what sort of paint your using. I've only been using this technique for a few years & it works extremely well for me. Keep trying. You'll get the hang of it. And when you do, you'll never go back to doing it any other way!
I think it looks great! Although I'm not real keen on those bright yellows. Something a little more subdued would have probably been more appropriate for a cruiser like this. But, if brightening it up was your goal, you surely accomplished that! I have this same kit that I plan to do in the future. Mine will be a pale metallic purple called "Light Mauve".
I see by the list Bill, that the bumble bee stripe was also standard. Now, if I'm doing this as a stripe delete, my question would be, if you could get it without the stripe, do you think you could get it without the wheel trim? Because that's my story, & I'm stickin' to it.
I use Squadron Green because I agree with you about Testors. If you're going to use Testors, you just as well use drywall compound! The Squadron Green is not the best stuff on the planet, but I use so little of it, that it really doesn't warrant going out & buying a quart of something, or messing with 2 part fillers. The occasional gouge or sink mark is pretty much all that I use putty for.
I will agree wholeheartedly with that. If I would have come across this kit for $5.00, I would have snarfed it up in a second. But having zero interest in funny cars, I would either sell it or trade it for something I really wanted.
Just in case anyone is wondering, I have to confess something. You'll notice that there are no "directional lights" on the top of the fenders & no chrome fender well trim. For some reason, my kit did not have the fender well trim when I got it. I'm assuming that the previous owner trimmed it off for some reason. The directional lights were there, but were chipped up & I thought it would look better without them rather than trying to fix or replace them. I kind of like the look without those extra chrome pieces anyway. Gives it a little more of a "utilitarian" look, which was kind of what I was shooting for with this build. No bells & whistles, hence the omission of the bumble bee stripe. Now, that said, I don't know how accurate these 2 omissions make the car. Anyone know if the 1:1 could be had without these 2 features in '69? Most factory stock cars that I've seen have the fender trim, but the turn signals are sporadic. I have seen a few cars without the fender well trim, but don't know how accurate they were.
If the Charger isn't MIB or at least un-built, there's absolutely no reason not to build it. If anything has been started or glued together, the "mint" kit value is gone & it's just a "builder". It can still be worth some good money, but not a whole lot more than a built kit. A very good professionally built kit would possibly bring more than the state it's in now. Build it!