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About StevenGuthmiller

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 11/27/1962

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    Hawley Minnesota
  • Full Name
    Steven Wade Guthmiller

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  1. I really need to get another one of the Johan kits. Probably one of the most beautiful, best engineered and most detailed kits I’ve ever built! Steve
  2. You don't necessarily need a gloss black base under Alclad. Only on the chrome or maybe polished aluminum. You're correct about durability to a certain extent, but a shot of clear will make all but the chrome paint as tough as nails. Every metal part that you see here is Alcad of various colors. All shot over primer, (except the chrome air cleaners, exhaust tips and radiator cap), shot with Testors clear lacquer, and slightly weathered. Steve
  3. I agree. Nix on the Testor's cement. It's always been a PITA as far as I'm concerned anyway. Get some 2 part epoxy for a job like this as Tom suggested. Liquid cements and CA glues can cloud, or otherwise mar the chrome finish if you're not extremely careful. Epoxy will not harm the chrome, and it will give you an extremely strong bond. Steve
  4. Alclad is your best bet for metal paints in my opinion. They have a full line of different paints that are very realistic and quite easy to work with if you have an airbrush. Steve
  5. Absolutely! MCW, (Model Car World) and Scale Finishes make lacquer paints that are just as good if not better than Tamiya, and the color palette is endless. Steve
  6. Yesterday I finished the interior for my MPC 1968 Dodge Coronet hardtop. The parts have been sent to Ed Fluck Jr. to be reproduced in resin to be offered to the public soon. If anyone is in need of a bit better detailed interior for their '68 Coronet, they will hopefully be available from Drag City Casting in the near future. The kit will include interior floor and rear package shelf, 2 piece rear seat, front bucket seats, door panels, 2 piece dash, arm rests and window cranks. The set is designed to work in conjunction with the Revell 1968 Dodge Charger chassis. Steve
  7. A thin coat of Testors "Turn Signal Amber" over the chrome would probably get you very close. Steve
  8. Very nice work Tom! I know what you mean about the trim. When I did my '68, the trim from the top of the front quarter to the bottom of the rear quarter window opening was no picnic. The fender well moldings aren't exactly fun either! Steve
  9. Thanks guys! These interior parts are finished and on their way to Pennsylvania for Ed to reproduce in resin. Get your check books ready fellas! Steve
  10. We all know that AMT muffed the rear quarter shape pretty badly on their '68 and '69 Roadrunners and GTX's. Has anyone ever noticed how closely the shape of the rear quarter on these kits matches the MPC '68/'69 Coronet kits? Could it be that there was an intention to do a Coronet instead of, or after the Roadrunners? Or maybe they used the Coronet rear quarter as their "template"? If that were the case, is there the possibility that the MPC '68 or '69 body still exists in a form that is possible to be resurrected? Or is it all just fantasy and they just dropped the ball? Anyway, I found it kind of interesting how closely the rear quarters of these two kits seem to match in overall shape. Steve
  11. Guess now I'll have to get one of each! Just what I need. More kits! Steve
  12. X3. There is really no need for all of these contortions. The grooves in the body of the '53 Ford are quite deep. Mix up a little 2 part epoxy and lay some into the bottom of the groove. Allow the epoxy to tack up a little, (maybe 2 or 3 minutes) and then place the trim into the groove. If the epoxy is placed only in the bottom of the groove, (none on the sides) in a relatively thin application and allowed to tack up, there will be no glue squeezing out and therefore no excess glue to clean up. Once the epoxy cures fully, you'll have a tough time prying the trim out with a screwdriver! Steve
  13. Thanks guys! I believe that the relevant interior parts are now about finished and ready for duplication. Steve
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