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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. Thanks guys! Today, I've been spending some time working on cobbling together a more correct looking '64 steering wheel. Steve
  2. "Hampton Art" carries a very large array of colors of embossing powders in solid and metallic colors. I buy them in sets that contain 16 different colors per package. A couple of different sets should get you nearly any color that you can think of. For around $20.00 a set, you'll have enough embossing powder to last you a very long time. These are most of the reds that I have on hand. Steve
  3. Everything is fair game. Even the refrigerator drawers! 🙄 Steve
  4. Marcy, the cutest cat on the planet!! Well, at least to me. 😊 Steve
  5. I don’t see it amounting to a whole lot unless they offer some sort of promotion. Say, recycle 10 lbs of scrap plastic, get a free kit. Steve
  6. Yes, I realize that, but I made a mistake when cutting back the top many months ago. This seemed like the best option. Steve
  7. The active ingredient in oven cleaner, (lye) is the same as the purple stuff, but the concentration of that ingredient is higher in Super Clean than it is in Purple Power. That said, if it’s not having any affect, I suspect that oven cleaner won’t do it either. You could try some IPA, but I’ve always had my worries that IPA or brake fluid could make the plastic brittle. At least I’ve heard such concerns from others. You might want to try Testors ELO. I have not used it, but I know of others that swear by it. Just be aware that ELO is not for soaking. You brush it on and then rinse it off.....hopefully along with the paint. 😊 Steve
  8. It might not be evident upon first inspection, but I did a considerable amount of work on the up top to get it to fit properly. The up top, (originally from a '62 Buick Electra annual) first needed to be shortened overall to fit the Pontiac. I then had to add some material to the lower back portion of the C-pillar to narrow the rear glass opening slightly. This made it possible to be able to add the rear window by flattening the radius of the rear tulip panel area, if that makes any sense. I also added a narrow section at the base of the top at the rear between the sail panels. This will make it possible for me to add the back window and have it fit cleanly so that I can alternate between up top and boot. The rear glass will actually be plastic from a sandwich bag to replicate a soft plastic rear window. I then added plastic strip around all of the window openings and the leading edge of the top, just to add a little more interest and simulate "beading" or "seams". Now I will have the option of displaying the model with the top up, or down as I choose. Steve
  9. Thanks folks. I managed to get a little more work done this weekend. I re-did the seat "buttons" on the front seats, and in the process, decided that it might help to re-scribe some of the upholstery pattern to add a little more depth as well. I'm happier with them now. Steve
  10. You would think for $450.00, they could have done at least "something" with the carburetor. Steve
  11. I was thinking the same! What lake did they haul some of these out of?! Steve
  12. I'll throw this one out there as well to see what you all think. AMT didn't do a '63, and the '65 was a completely different body style, so it was definitely a "dead end" kit. Do you suppose this one might still be lurking in a dark corner somewhere waiting for another moment in the sun? Steve
  13. Thanks fellas. Still doing some refining. I think I have the door panels and top boot dialed in. Decided that I wasn't happy with the seat buttons in the rear seat, so I decided to re-do them. I'll make a definitive decision on the front seats after I see how the rear seat comes out. Steve
  14. I guess it’s a nice “diecast”, but then again, it should be for 40 G’s. I would have been more impressed, or at least more interested, if was a ‘57 Chevy. 😁 Steve
  15. Thanks guys! I appreciate it. I found a couple more details that I felt needed to be added to the door panels. The molded in ash trays just looked as if they were going to be too faint to deal with, so I fashioned new ones from a piece of plastic sheet. Then, I decided to add the "interior lights" on the rear arm rests. This was done by simply gluing a small square of plastic in position to replicate the lens, and then surrounding it with thin pieces of stretched sprue for the trim. Steve
  16. The rear end is a bit of a mess. The most glaring mistake being the shape of the rear wheel opening. not even close to the 1:1. Steve
  17. Here’s another one that “could” be around in some form. Went from the annual, to this re-pop, and then finally to the stocker. Possibility that there could be enough of this one left to still do something with? I suppose the first question would be, is there any interest? Steve
  18. I don't know. Maybe it came to me in a dream. Steve
  19. That’s not to say that you will have issues with adhesion, but I can see the possibility with a low solvent paint. Steve
  20. I have a good ‘62 convertible body that I might be convinced to let go. 😉 Unfortunately, I only have the body and hood. Steve
  21. Agreed. At least with lacquers, the solvent should take care of the adhesion issues for you. But I can absolutely see the point of sanding for extra adhesion if you’re working with enamels or acrylics. I will attest to the fact that I myself have had adhesion issues with enamels in the past. Part of the reason that I no longer use enamel for bodies. Steve
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