Pretty tricky, but I got those little brass hood louvers painted and put together:
The instructions recommend white glue, but I found they were a press fit once they've got a couple of coats of paint on them. Very cool that something like this would be included in a (mostly) plastic kit, but definitely not for the beginning builder. Now to get them installed in the hood.
If you have access to the technology, another alternative might be to make a high resolution scan and then print them onto ink jet decal paper. If I'm working with rare decals of unknown condition, I'll often take the precaution of scanning the sheet ahead of time. Of course, this gets more problematic if the sheet has a lot of white area.
Thanks, Bill. Yes, the Tamiya paint stand is great - beats the homemade coat hanger stands I used to use. The only thing I need to remember is not to turn it upside down - the top part isn't attached to the base.
Yes, there are several different versions of these Protar bike kits. It appears that there are a few common parts trees, so you'll end up with a bunch of extra parts. Just figuring out which parts are the ones to use for your particular version is a task! The markings were just regular waterslide decals. Mildly troublesome (because of their age, perhaps), but nothing terrible.
Back in '75 I could only afford a Raleigh Record myself - the bottom of the ten speed line at about $125, but I loved it just the same. Funny that you should mention the Professional Mk IV - I have one! The frame at least, and it's a 25 1/2", which fits me just right. Got lucky a few years ago, found it used and in need of attention. It had a bad re-paint, so I sanded it down and painted it a nice light metallic blue - a Duplicolor GM Pontiac color that is close the Blue Mink. It's now built up with nice modern components and is my "good" bike. Good luck with the kit - it's a challenge for sure, but worth it, in my experience!
Says, "not designed to work with the Monogram March kits" for some reason, but I think most of it would work reasonably well - at least the lettering and numbers. I have one of these unbuilt on the shelf, too. Watching, curious to see how it builds . . .
Thanks for the info - I'm always willing to stand corrected. The Revs Institute looks like a great resource! I have to admit I'm not too knowledgeable about some of these fine points, outside of small block Fords. I was basing my engine details off photos I found online - including this one - that seems to show a bypass hose:
Thought I'd share a little something I did that might be helpful for any of you guys using the Micro Mark kit. I found that after some use, the clamp that holds the piece in the tank started to lose its tension and wouldn't hold very reliably any more. So I bought a 8/32 x 1" nylon bolt and wing nut from the hardware store, cut the old clamp off the rod and the head off the bolt, then epoxied the bolt onto the rod (with a plastic sleeve for additional strength).
Then it's simply a matter of punching or drilling a hole in the workpiece and putting the wing nut on to hold it.
No more worries about losing the part in the tank!
I started prepping the body. It's a nice, sharp casting that doesn't need much clean-up. I removed the molded in differential cooler lines (I'll replace them with wire later) and the Corvette emblem from the rear deck.