Hi topher, no such thing as a dumb question. But Im just not really sure what your asking. I'll try to answer as best I can though. For finally assembly, it depends on the kit and how much I modified it. I use a wide range of glues from regular testors or tamiya model cement, or two part 5 minute epoxy, or even Catalyst type super glues. The second part of your question is a little confusing to me. If your asking what process I use to do detail painting, well that I can answer. I usually start painting a part with a base color, and then pick the detail out with several other colors depending on the level of detail Im after. I usually use a combination of a super fine brush and if need be, even the tip of a tooth pick dipped in paint, whatever allows the detail to stand out from the part's bass color. I do all my detail painting as I build, painting and picking the detail out for each part before it is assembled to it's final location, unless it is something that can be done without other parts getting in the way. Then a part may get assembled into it's location and then detail painted. But that is very seldom. But that is just what works for me, each builder usually finds a method that works best for them. It just take time, as well as trial and error.
Morning guys, this is one of two AMT 66 Nova builds I strarted back in the spring entitled Mom and Pop's Toys in the workbench area of the site. I still have alot of work to do on Mom's Toy. But got this one finished this past weekend. Here is some outdoor shots I took of it this morning. There was a heap load of work and detailing done on it. Too much to list here, but you can check out the build in my workbench thread here... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100108
I did have a slight issue with the BMF work on the passenger side vent window trim, but all in all, it was a fun build that I enjoyed doing.
This may take a few posts to get all the pics in for you. Thanks for looking and as always... comments are always welcome.
Morning Guys and thanks for the kind comments. I finally got Pop's Toy finished and it's going Under-Glass today. I'll get back to work on Mom's Toy (66 wagon) in a few days. I may start a new thread for the wagon to make it easier to follow along since this thread was so large.
Hi Joe, for some reason I missed this thread of yours. Not sure how that happened lol. Maybe not being in the hobby room for a while had something to do with it lol. I sure wish I still had some of my eqarlier builds around, I would love to bring some of them back to life. Nice progress buddy.
Im posting the last update for Pop's Toy (66 Nova SS) before it goes under-glass in a few days. Then I'll get back to work on Mom's Toy, (66 Nova Wagon)
I get the front of the core support for the radiator detailed with a wiring harness, and then moved on to finishing the engine bay detail. I attached the battery cables, installed the windshield washer bottle and added windshield washer hoses. I made and installed a engine bay wiring harness and attached a few wires off it to the alternator. I then detailed and installed the brake master cylinder. Then added the inner fender shock towers and painted, detailed and installed the upper radiator hose. Finally I installed the front frill and the kit supplied chrome hood trim.
Below you will find several pics of the work completed. It will take a few posts to get all the pics in. I still have the final exterior detailing to do, but you'll see that when it goes in the under glass section when I get it done in a few days.
Well that sucks Joe. But I'm sure you'll get it buddy. I've had many a re-sprays in my bench build life lol, so I know the feeling of disapointment they cause. But if your anything like me, you'll get it if it's the last thing you do lmao.
Morning Mike. I've used the enamel mixed with lacquer thinner process many times on many builds. First let me say, when using a cheaper brush. Mix it 50/50, and for me I set my compressor PSI to between 15 and 20lbs. Second, If your using tamiya paints, (be they the spray cans or acrylic bottles) for your copper base color, the testors enamel mixed with lacquer thinner will not play nice with it. It will etch through it and yes even cause a grainy look. Testors makes a copper enamel that can be mixed the same way as your black and it would have been compatible with the over coat of black since both would have been mixed the same way. When I mix my testors enamels I use cheap hardware store brand lacquer thinner. Not sure what type you used, but any form of automotive lacquer thinner, (even the cheap stuff) will not play nice with testors enamels, the hardware store brands work fine with it however, since they are not as hot. The issue your having seems to indicate to hot of a lacquer thinner. The hardware store brands should not be that hot and mix fine with testors enamels. The age of the enamel paints can make a difference as well when being mixed with this process. (a lot of trial and error taught me this over the years). As for a safe and effective primer to use under the paint. I use Tamiya white or grey fine spray can primer since it is lacquer based. I've had a few issues with different types of cheap primers such as duplicolor or krylon when laying testors paints mixed with lacquer thinner over them. Just wanted to pass along some tips for using the Don Yost process, effectively, that seems to have always worked for me. Many of us long time modelers that have been around almost as long as Don, have used that same process. Especially since we started out trying to find a way to lay down smoother enamel paint jobs, long before the days of acrylic or lacquer model paints, and many of us have found that mixing it this way gives us that smoother finish with less orange peel to have to polish out. It won't be glass smooth, but it will dry faster and make it easier to wet sand and polish to get that glass smooth look. When applying your paint coats, start with a couple of medium coats followed by a couple of good wet coats. That's pretty much my process. Yes I know Don suggests a couple of light mist coats, but in my experience, doing it that way, the paint always dries before it hits the model, causing a dull grainy look, so I go with with a little heavier starting coats than Don does. That and setting my compressor to a lighter PSI setting than Don does seems to help keep the paint from drying before it hits the model as well. The air pressure idea, was something Boydd Coddington suggested to me many years ago when he offered me some advice at a model contest he came to guest judge at a car show in St Ignace, Michigan.
Hope this helps find an answer to your problem. To fix the issue, you most likely will have to strip it down and re-spray it. If you do, try it with the process I discribed above and it should turn out better. Oh, and one last thing, the lacquer thinner idea, does not work as well with sem-gloss and flat black for some reason.