kpnuts
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Posts posted by kpnuts
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Hi all so the first installment, I'm basically the laziest modeler ever and if there's a short cut or an easy way to do something I'm there.
So heres the first bit of aging an engine, since I'm working on an engine atm I decided to use that as the first example.
First requirement talcum powder.
Here's our nice clean engine
I use enamels so in this case I dip the brush in white spirit before picking up some talc(you can use water but you would have to matt the engine first as the water will just bead otherwise) I then dab the loaded brush on the engine (really load it all up with the white spirit and talc)once that's done flood with white spirit till it looks how you want.
I used gun metal from ABT
To highlight the bolt heads.
I then dust it all with Uschi powders
Then buff that with a soft brush
My ref pic
Sorry thepics are in order but didn't go where wanted in the post (did say I'm rubbish at this.
This is going to end up being a very long post as I have lots of stuff to add to it (assuming you want it)
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Thanks Al
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Hi all some people have said they thought my engines looked very realistic (I think it helps in that most of my life I've been around or worked on either motorcycle or car engines) so I thought if anyone wants to know how I do any aspect of weathering an engine they could just ask or if it would help maybe I could try and post a video (pretty rubbish at social media)
Here is a random sample of the hundreds of engines I must have modeled over the years
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Never heard of a belly tanker before, this is just awesome.
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More work on the 934, started painting the tree and building a porta shed.
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OK so now the RE20 is done this is back out as you can see the tree is back and I've started on the tree and dirtied up the car a bit more.
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Hi all thanks for the words of condolence.
This build just won build of the month on model space
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Great result there Pat
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Well this is in tribute to Joe (my missus dad)who sadly died this morning
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Work progresses on the RE20, on the last leg now. Bit peed of with the instructions re the seat belts if you follow the instructions your seat belts will go round the seat nearly twice so now I need to alter them and they were a pita the first time.
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Hi all nearing the end, it says on the box removable covers to show detail, well it took me near on 2 hrs to get those side skirts to look anything like good fitting. I can imagine the conversation oh let me show you all the detail, by the time I got the skirts off they would have lost the will to live so the skirts will be staying on (shame after all the work that went into the turbos)
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I didn't realise the pontoons on these cars floated (they are mounted on a leaf spring of some sort, at least that's what it looks like to me)
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Added those headers (if I had hair I wouldn't have now) they needed loads of heating and bending to get anywhere near fitting.
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Wow is all I can say
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Well the turbos are installed (what a pita) loads more plumbing to add, and of course (I'm really dreading this) the headrers. Added a couple more decals to the fuselage soon be able to add the pontoons permanently.
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Incredible work, you're doing an awesome job of it.
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More work on the turbos and added the forgotten brake cooling ducts.
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So did some work on the turbos and exhausts and added another decal (these big decals are a real pita I think I in the future I may cut big decals into smaller ones.
I'm really peed off I've got to take the rear suspension all off as I've forgotten to add the air cooling ducts to the disks, gthey were a pain in the first place.
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Some of the exhaust and turbo parts primed, and the worst decal applied I'm not going to say that was hard but it did involve quite a few expletives and quite a bit of nail biting (they needed cutting anyway)
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More work on this she now has all her wheels, one of the many really cool details of this kit is they even went to the trouble of molding the wear indicators on the tyres.
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Hi all the instructions tell you to leave 2.5 mm of the stud sticking out of the hub and thread the wheel nut onto that unfortunately the narrow part of the hole into which you are supposed the thread the studvont is recessed 3 mill into the nut, my initial thought was to sand 3 mm off the nut thus bringing the thread able area forward, however the nut is tapered (as is the centre of the wheel) in the end I decided to drill the nut out so the hole was the same all the way through then drill that out 1.4 mm and thread that onto the stub, worked a treat.
The skirts are just placed there for a look see as there is loads more to do before they are finally fitted.
I'm really pleased with how this is going, I wonder if protar did any more of these F1 kits and if they can still be had on ebay and such.
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OK first off (as with everything in this kit) either the locating holes are too small or the locating pins are too big either way on the rear suspension it is really important to drill parts 342L and 343L holes out with a 1.8 mill drill like this.
Or you will end up with the problem I had with getting it off without snapping the pin that it goes into off as it will not go fully home if you don't drill it out.
The pluming on this is a nightmare (I should have labeled all the pipes at the start of this build.
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Thats a great start on this.
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Hi all bit more progress on this.
Engines, engines, engines
in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Posted
Can anyone tell me how to get the pictures where I want them.