Depending on the type of part you are doing, and how many of said part you want, you may not even want to use a mold release material at first. Starting out, you'll be trying smaller parts anyway. Those can usually be done without anything, though that will shorten the life of the mold. I used to use the silicone mold release (in a spray can) only for large parts like bodies and hoods, when I did those. You can overdo it with that stuff. I've heard of people having trouble getting all of the mold release off of bodies from one particular caster. If you go nuts laying that stuff on, the excess will absorb into the resin and cause problems. Depending on the design of the mold, it's going to produce X number of parts before it starts to degrade. The RTV material will start drying out (due to heat generated by the curing of resin within the mold) in areas like door lines and windshield wiper detail, and there's nothing that can be done to stop it. Careful application of mold release will help you get more pours off of a mold than you would get without it, but "too much" won't extend the life of the mold any further. For small items like wheels and engine parts, I use talcum powder. Get a small container with a lid that snaps on (like a margarine or Cool Whip tub), put in a few molds and some powder, snap the lid on tight, and shake the thing around to give everything a nice even dusting. You don't want any clumps of powder in the molds. The powder breaks the surface tension letting you fill the molds more quickly and with less messing around. It absorbs into the resin but doesn't cause any problems. If you are painting the parts or sending them out for plating, you don't have to go to nearly as much trouble to clean the parts as you would have to do if they had silicone or greasy stuff on them. I've had thousands of parts plated after casting them with this method. Any reject parts were due to foreign matter getting into the vacuum chamber during the plating process. I've never had parts disintegrate or degrade because of the resin itself, as long as it was properly mixed and in the correct A:B proportion. If you've got parts from a pour that wasn't mixed correctly, you'll figure that out long before you attempt to clean them or do anything else with them. One instance where mold release is an absolute must, is when you make a multiple-piece mold and you are pouring new rubber against previously cured rubber. This stuff sticks to itself like you wouldn't believe, so you've got to have something between the old layer and the new one or your part will be trapped in the mold. I've used leftover liquid car wax for this, painting it onto exposed rubber with a cheap paint brush. Some of the waxes are colored in the bottle, and change color as they dry. That makes it easy to make sure you've covered everything that needs to be covered. Make sure you cover all of the exposed rubber. You don't need to apply it to still-exposed portions of the part from which you are making the mold. Starting out, you're probably better off going with all products from one company. Certain resins won't cure fully against certain types of mold material; that sometimes happens when you pour one company's resin into another company's RTV. If you use one company's materials all the way through, you'll get decent results sooner and with less frustration. There's plenty of time to experiment later, after you've seen positive results.
I bought signs and put them up earlier this summer. Nobody has rung the bell since then, but I'm waiting for someone to say "but this is important" when I ask them to read the sign. Most municipalities actually have an ordinance on the books prohibiting anyone from ringing the bell or knocking on the door when such a sign is posted. They cannot enforce an across-the-board ban; those have been fought and defeated because they curtail free speech. But the court decisions that stopped the across-the-board actions have allowed for individual households or complexes to "ban" solicitors. They are obligated to move on when "no soliciting" signs are posted.
The New York State Department of Taxation was doing that in the early Nineties. They'd send out thousands of "notices of sales tax delinquency" on a regular basis, hoping to rope in businesses that didn't keep copies of their returns (which, of course, you should do anyway). When I had my business, I got those several quarters in a row. I'd have to spend time and money getting copies of returns and bank statements (to show that they cashed the checks prior to the due date, which was the case every time), then spend more money on registered/return receipt mail (which absolutely NOBODY there signed for, ever). For a while, I tried to have some fun with it, pasting together my own official-looking "Notice of Receipt of Bull---- Delinquency Notice" to use for the reply, things like that. After a while I got my local State legislator involved, and they gave up trying to collect from me. I guess other people were writing them nasty notes in reply to their notices...they eventually passed a law against writing remarks on the tax forms or the checks used to pay taxes. Talk about thin-skinned...
The Scamp/Dart/Dart Sport/Duster had lengthwise torsion bars up front, the Aspen/Volare/Diplomat/Gran Fury had a transverse torsion bar setup. The platforms were different. The rear end might have bolted into the earlier car, but I wouldn't even bet on that. The later transverse torsion bar front suspension unbolted from the car as a self-contained unit, steering box and engine mounts included. Those were popular swap material for a brief period. My older brother swapped one of those into a late Fifties Chevy pickup about twenty years ago. The guy wanted the truck really low in front. The frame rails got notched pretty deeply so as to get that unit as high up as possible relative to the frame. If you fabricated the mounts, you could bolt that unit in with insulators as on the donor car, but for most swaps (including the Chevy) the unit got welded to the frame. That truck (I think it was a '58) got the Gran Fury front suspension, a later Chevy rear axle, a big-block Chevy engine, and a tilt steering column (without the ignition lock; might have been out of a van). It rolled out under its own power (certainly didn't come in that way), but I don't think the guy did anything with it after that. Probably still sitting in his yard...
There seemed to be a lot of them around here, too...a number of police agencies used them. Some got pressed into taxi service, but not many. The "downsized full size" Chevy was the taxi of choice around here, especially the pre-1991 "box". The hack companies around here were slow to switch to the '91-up "bubble" body style because the earlier ones were so numerous, and parts so cheap. Parts for the cop car Diplomat/Gran Fury always seemed to be hard to find. I wanted a set of the six-slot cop car wheels for the early Dakota I had back then, never could find any...the Mopar guys were snatching them up. Trivia: the last couple of years of production, the Diplomat/Gran Fury was assembled in Kenosha by AMC. Chrysler needed production capacity to keep building the cop cars, AMC had facilities that were way underutilized. They'd dropped their own rear-drive cars after '83, and switched over to the Renault-based front-drive stuff that stopped selling after the first couple of years.
I don't know where that online store got that description...the kit builds only one way, as the U.N.C.L.E. version with all of the spy gear. As I understand it, the "stock" version had a shorter body (less overhang behind the rear wheels). It's an interesting kit, I picked one up with the thought of building it without the spy stuff.
A few years ago, one guy was in the "15 items or less" line with a cart full of one-gallon jugs of water. His logic was, "it's only one item, she only has to scan one of them and count the ones in the cart". I always thought it was the number of individual items, but hey, maybe that's just me. I look for the shortest line anyway, regardless of whether it's fifteen items, seven items, whatever. Another time, I had two or three items that I was carrying. In one line was an unattended cart with a couple of items in it. The person in front of it was paying the cashier; that other cart wasn't hers. I yanked the cart out of the way, and set my stuff on the conveyor. Right then, this guy walks up with an armload of stuff yelling that he was in line ahead of me. My reply was, "you weren't in line, you left a cart in the line and went off to do your shopping..." Usually, I'm the one in line behind someone with three maxed-out credit cards that can't pay for all of the stuff they want, or are trying to use a benefits card to buy stuff that isn't allowed.
They're very well done, but the market was very small. How many people were interested in doing (and had the ability to do) the assembly of the model, the assembly and painting of the figures, and the assembly and finishing of the wood shadow box? That said, I've got one of them (the Auto Crossing with the Winton). The original idea was to keep the car and set aside the rest, but the thing is so interesting that I'm leaving it alone until I decide to either build it or sell it to someone else who might build it. A guy I know got one of the Model T kits in a peculiar way: he first found the car by itself, then years later found another kit that someone had swiped the car from!
I never figured that Revell would tool another engine for the gasser version, but I was thinking they'd go a bit wilder with the engine setup, like injectors. I was disappointed that the headers are one-piece units, though they do look pretty good. The Edelbrock script valve covers are also new, and unlike anything in any other kit with a Y-block. Too, I'd have thought they would have tooled another hood, even for this kit, which out of the box is more a modern "street freak" interpretation of a gasser than it is a drag car. The wheels/tires are so-so; the "street freak" gassers often use "piecrust" slicks (they weren't called that back then), sometimes with wide whitewalls. Mine's going to get all the cliches: Mickey Thompson/Rader wheels and slicks from the Thunderbolt kit, a teardrop blister on the hood, and big Metalflake paint. It shouldn't be too tough to tie the headers in to the stock dual exhaust system. By adding some material to the sides of the kit firewall (to fill the space between the firewall and the forward edge of the doors), it looks like a tilt front end might be within reach. One other thing: there's nothing to tie the gasser front axle to the stock steering box.
I remember picking up a couple of promos, in boxes, for $2 apiece. Still have them. Got a couple of the kits (store returns, damaged) for a buck apiece, and parted them out. The engine is pretty similar to the one in the MPC Duster and Dart Sport kits, only with a Torqueflite instead of a four-speed...