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Mark

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About Mark

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    Amherst (Buffalo), NY
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    Mark Budniewski

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  1. Is it a promo (detailed chassis) or a friction model? People (especially sellers) blur the line separating them but they are two different things. Friction models were sold as toys, and were often made in non-stock colors. That said, metallic finishes will be oversprayed. I looked at my friction Imperial, it is a solid color and does not appear to be clearcoated. The tooling was probably highly polished as Monogram did with many of their kits, particularly the classic cars. If you intend to paint it, a soak wouldn't be a bad idea.
  2. The 1:1 was always a '70. AMT issued that kit after they were finished with it as the '72 annual kit.
  3. I wonder if the Henry J will have the wheels pictured...it'll sell better if they go back to the original parts and junk those awful Cragar Super Tricks, that too-dropped front axle, and that goofy looking quick-change rear end. Be even better if the frame looked like something that someone actually used...
  4. Thinking about it, I wonder if one of those cleaners for yellowed car headlamp lenses might do the job.
  5. I've never seen vacuform clear parts on a diecast, but the plastic used for windows is a lot more flexible than what is used in kits. The diecast body won't flex, so the windows have to, otherwise they wouldn't go in. You can try polishing the clear parts, but I'd bet there is little chance of undoing the yellowing. You might be able to get rid of some of it though.
  6. Try Michael's craft stores if they are in your area. They still stock the '68 with the Hemi conversion option, that issue has the most parts but still includes the stock version. Check online for a coupon before heading there.
  7. I remember when Fargo was first released on DVD...the deluxe package included (of course) commentary and other extras. One of the extras was a snow globe with a miniature wood chipper...
  8. Nope, all Chrysler Corporation cars except the Imperial switched to Unibody construction in the 1960 model year. (Imperial switched for 1967.) So, any Mopars prior to 1960 should have a frame. '57-'59 should have torsion bar front suspension detail.
  9. Not many annual kits had them: Jeepster/Commando (some, but not all), Pontiac Grand Prix ('69-'70), AMC Pacers. Beyond that, some Jeep kits. I don't recall any Chevy pickup kit with them.
  10. AMT '58 Plymouth might be a bit closer, as the Plymouth and Dodge were basically the same car under the skin, while the Chrysler was a bit bigger. But if you already have a Chrysler kit on the shelf, go ahead and try it.
  11. If you have a couple of "favorite" drill sizes, think about getting a pack of each size, and also getting extra pin vises or mandrels to hold each "favorite" size bit. Getting a pack of ten of a particular size bit really isn't that expensive. If you use the pin vise for one, and only one, size bit won't make it sloppy for smaller size bits later on. Look on eBay (or elsewhere) for industrial bits, the hobby oriented bits sold in sets or at Snap-On East (Harbor Freight) won't be as well made, and will wear out faster. You'll probably break an industrial quality bit by accident before it wears out.
  12. You'd have to wonder if anyone actually looked at those cards, unless they got piles of them asking for one specific item. That may actually have happened back then, probably not often though. It's probably more like that little button you push at a street corner pedestrian crossing. You push the button and wait, and the light changes on schedule anyway...
  13. Check the home improvement stores and hardware stores...many sell empty quart paint cans. Leaving leftover paint in the gallon can will result in either the paint drying in the can, or moisture getting into the can causing the rust. I will dab a bit of paint on both the lid and side of the can to show the color of the contents.
  14. This whole mess is going to be used in some quarters to lower overall expectations, and get you used to the idea of even poorer service than what there was before...
  15. They probably designed the kit before II was built, and just stuck the II graphics on the existing kit. Revell did the same with the old tool Stone, Woods, & Cook Willys kit. The kit is modeled on the car when it had the steel front clip and Everflex exhaust tubing grille, but the lettering matches the revised car with the fiberglass front end and '58 Ford grille mesh. The photo of the car on the box is doctored to match the contents of the box. The same, or a very similar, photo of that car appeared in Rod & Custom coverage of a drag meet, with no change. The canopy was probably a "car show only" deal.
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