The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
All Duplicolor products I'm aware of are lacquer-based, to go with their touch-up colors. The "primer sealer" is thin and has no scratch filling or build qualities compared with the other primers. I've applied it as a final primer coat over other primers once the item is ready for paint. If I've got something with bodywork on it (filled sink marks, prepped parting lines) I'll brush scratch filler primer or sandable primer over just those areas, then wet sand smooth. Then the whole body gets primed and smoothed up, and after that it gets a quick blast of the sealer primer. That gets smoothed up with some wet sanding (without breaking through anywhere) then the color goes on. The sealer primer does seem to keep sanding scratches from showing up later. That's my experience with it, yours may differ.
Doesn't look too different from a Monogram or AMT NASCAR engine in parts breakdown, except for the bottom part of the bellhousing molded along with the oil pan. The parts breakdown of the kit overall doesn't look too different from a Monogram kit, though this one appears to have a couple of extra parts in each sub-assembly. With AM's earlier kits having sold at higher-than-average prices (and being worth it), if this kit followed that pricing strategy I wonder how it would have sold compared to the equivalent Monogram kit at a few bucks' difference.
We who frequent message boards and travel to shows like Toledo and NNL East are only a small fraction of the people who buy model kits. There are a lot of people who don't know about toy/model shows, IPMS contests, etc. who buy kits off the shelf at Michael's or Hobby Lobby. The new releases are aimed mainly at them.
1/24 scale is "one half inch equals one foot". Actually, the question should be "how did 1/25 scale get used?" As I understand it, 1/25 was primarily an architectural scale. The most common explanation for 1/25 is that the car manufacturers were already working in 1/10 scale for some of their work, and the model manufacturers reduced that by 2-1/2 to get to 1/25 for the promotional models. One guy in my IPMS chapter (who builds cars among other things) won't buy anything marked 1/25 scale, and has been vocal about it when sufficiently prodded. He's mentioned that everything labeled 1/25 scale that he has checked has never measured out to exactly 1/25; more often it turns out to be slightly smaller. That's true to some extent because so many early kits are based on manufacturers' promotional models. Often those were cheated a bit to fit in a certain size box, or to look right with already existing tires. Recently I bought a Jimmy Flintstone resin Ford Econoline van body. It looks like it's cribbed from an existing diecast van. The intended donor kit (interior floor/chassis) is the IMC/Lindberg Dodge A-100 (Little Red Wagon, etc). I measured the wheelbase and length on the Econoline and found it slightly undersize (1/25.7 or so). I'm wondering how it's going to fit with the Dodge parts because the Dodge is 1/25 scale and both the Ford and the Dodge are on the exact same (90") wheelbase. Measuring the Dodge kit, I found that it too is undersize, almost exactly to the same degree as the resin Econoline body. So it will fit. The A-100 was never a promotional model, so there's no logical explanation for it being undersize. The moral of the story: don't pull out the ruler if you don't have to, otherwise you're going to find that something you think is 1/25 scale really isn't...
It was in the '68 kits, then skipped the next few years and reappeared in the '73 Caprice. It stayed in the big Chevy through '76. Besides the big Chevies, it was used in the Mako Shark (only the original, not any of the derivative versions) and the Carl Casper Turbo Shark (a custom '63-'67 style Corvette that used the Mako Shark chassis).
Are those larger than 15"? Several Monogram kits had wheels similar to the one on the left (mid-Eighties Monte Carlo, for example). A 15" wheel in 1/24 scale could pass for a 16" wheel in 1/25. A couple of Monogram Mopar kits had Magmum 500-style wheels, again those could pass for 16". Monogram's interpretation of that wheel always looked a bit shallow and flat to me, which would work to your advantage here.
You will have to go through a wholesaler to get kits. You'll pay more, but you will be able to order the items you want, when you want them. Neither of the two shops in my area deal directly with the manufacturers. Some aftermarket items can be bought directly from the companies making them. I believe Model Car Garage has an area on their website where you can apply to purchase their products for resale. Most of the guys doing casting or decals on the side will probably not offer a special deal to hobby shops as most of them can sell everything they can make without doing so.
Jim Keeler used two-part dental resin many years ago to fill the engine block for a contest winning funny car build. Later he built another car, writing step-by-step articles along the way that appeared in the old CAR MODEL Magazine. The short block (constructed with a Revell Parts Pack engine) had a crankshaft that turned, and the pistons went up and down in the cylinders. If I remember right, he used metal tubing for the cylinder bores and used the dental plastic to fill in around them. He built the engine for the article car around a Jo-Han engine block that didn't need the dental plastic, but he also repeated the original build to show how he'd done the contest entry. I messed with dental resin in the early Eighties, trying to cast parts with it. I did get some good parts but the stuff really heated up when the mixture "kicked", and that tore up the molds. Back then I was just trying to figure out how to do it. The railroad and military builders already had a strong aftermarket back then, but the car guys didn't. I probably got the idea to try the dental material from the CAR MODEL article. I was surprised at the time that I was able to buy the stuff without having to be a dentist. Some of the other materials and tools were "restricted", not to mention the meds, but you'd have expected that. I thought all of the materials would have been restricted. The materials described in the video are called "acrylics". The stuff I had back then certainly wasn't. The liquid half of the material was called "styrene monomer", and probably should have had a huge skull-and-crossbones on the package. That stuff smelled nasty, and you didn't want to be shaping it with your fingers in the way this guy was handling the new stuff in the video. I tried the baking soda/CA glue filler a couple of times but found it hard to work with, a lot harder to shape than the surrounding plastic. The dental resin I used was pretty much the same (harder than the surrounding plastic) so I never used it as a filler, but it did work great for bonding pieces together. I'd use something else on top of it to do the finish work. I've got to fix the sound on my computer and watch that video again...I didn't pick up what was going on with the clear parts. That's something I'd be interested in...
I can't see paying a premium for one just yet. Both the roadster and coupe were, and are, hot items, and you get the impression that the powers that be at Revell know this. They've done well with all of their rod subject matter, both newer tools like the Deuces and reissues like their Model A pickup and sedan. They know what they are doing (except maybe for picking their manufacturing facilities)...they'll cut a replacement tool and crank more of them out. They might have to change their production schedule around, or wait for an opening...but they'll do it.
The 1:1 wasn't built by a "name" builder, but there was one. The box art uses photos of the 1:1. I'm pretty sure the builder ran a collision shop or something like that, and that this was his only attempt to crack the show circuit. I'd bet, if anything, he did "too good" a job on everything and put too much effort into the project, and as a result didn't make any money leasing it out as a show piece. The guys who built those "show circuit" cars knew what wouldn't be seen by the general audience, and saved time and money by putting in the work on the areas that were seen.