Mark

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About Mark

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Location Amherst (Buffalo), NY

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  1. Mark added a post in a topic Needed: A donor body for a resin Master project (Greg Wann) of the 1951 Buick Lesabre   

    The Revell kit is 1/32 scale.  Monogram (long before merging with Revell) issued '55-'56 Cadillac kits of their own.  For both years they offered convertibles and hardtops (hardtop kits used the convertible body with a separate, add-on roof).  The Monogram kits were 1/20 scale.  AMT may have made a promotional model in 1/25 scale; if so, it would have been molded in acetate plastic with a stamped metal chassis and (probably) cast metal bumpers.
  2. Mark added a post in a topic Avoiding blower cutout groove ghosting   

    Fill the groove from underneath.  You can cement strip styrene into the groove and then trim it flush after the cement sets, or use epoxy putty.  After you are done with the underside, block sand the hood up top.
  3. Mark added a post in a topic Needed: A donor body for a resin Master project (Greg Wann) of the 1951 Buick Lesabre   

    You do realize that the Monogram Cadillac is 1/20 scale...yes/no?
  4. Mark added a post in a topic Mercury cyclone kit question   

    I'm pretty certain the Model King issue included later Seventies style stock car wheels, while the new Round 2 reissue appears to have the more correct wheel that was in the original MPC issue.
  5. Mark added a post in a topic Need Hints on Detailing a Molded Chasis   

    I haven't done one with the primer/body color edges yet; the rattle can overspray sometimes looks out of scale (to me, anyway).  If I were to try doing a chassis that way, I'd probably use a template or mask spaced away from the chassis a bit, to make the overspray line a bit "fuzzy" while keeping it to a minimum.  Two masks might be needed for each side...the outermost couple of inches of the floorpan probably wouldn't have caught any overspray because of the rocker panels, but I don't think that the overspray would reach too far in on the underside of the floorpan either. 
    I usually go for the "undercoating" look, because it darkens the underside of the car and (to me) doesn't draw attention away from the exterior of the car when it is sitting on the shelf.  When you turn it over, though, there is at least something to look at.  I paint the exhaust system first (used to use Testor's silver with Dullcote over that; on recent jobs I've used Humbrol silver which dries hard without needing anything applied over it).  I'll paint the molded-in fuel tank a darker metallic gray than the exhaust detail, but not as dark as the cast iron parts.  I then paint the adjacent edges with a fine brush, using an acrylic like Polly Scale Steam Power Black (one of the "blackest" black paints I've seen; not dead flat but not really a semi-gloss either).  Polly Scale isn't being made anymore; I laid in a supply of a few bottles and am keeping an eye open for an equivalent to use in the future.  Don't drag the brush back over work already done; doing that is what usually creates brush marks.  I'll do the areas that look the most difficult first (like where the exhaust goes over the rear axle) leaving the nice, straight, out-in-the-open, easy-to-get-to areas for last.  I clean up the edges as I go, using a pointed toothpick to rub off any black acrylic that strays onto the exhaust or fuel tank.  Every so often, I'll clean the brush and re-mix the paint so everything is consistent. 
    I let that dry, then use a bigger brush to get all of the other black areas.  If I need to, I'll apply a second (thinned) coat of the black later to get rid of any brush marks or other inconsistencies.  If there is leaf spring detail on the rear suspension, and it's well-defined, I'll pick that out with some steel gray (darker than the fuel tank but not as dark as cast iron gray).  I'll only paint the very "top" of the leaf spring detail.  I don't try to freehand any part of the chassis that "rises up" to the spring detail from the sides.  Sometimes the rear shock absorber detail is clean enough to pick out...if so, that can be done with some odd color (with those parts, color varies by brand) when the exhaust and fuel tank are done.  If you decide you don't like the way the shocks stand out, you can go over them with the black later while doing the rest of the chassis. 
    I don't do anything with the molded-in rear axle...to me, that's probably the worst area of this type of chassis, so painting that with the "undercoating black" makes it fade into the background, because it's not something that you want to stand out in any way.    
  6. Mark added a post in a topic AMT FORD RANCHERO MYSTERY PARTS   

    The bottom piece is a sanding stick, with different contours to get into different areas.  In the '61 Styline kit, you got a little tube of putty to mold in the extension pieces, and also a sheet or two of sandpaper.  You could glue the sandpaper to the stick.
  7. Mark added a post in a topic Barracuda....Back from the dead   

    This fish needs to be thrown back...
  8. Mark added a post in a topic Kits gone at WalMart again   

    The one store I went into every so often only had six or eight different kits, nothing special.  Lately, every time I go into that store, I walk out wondering why I went there...that's probably why the visits have tapered off considerably.
    The Michaels craft store chain appears to have reset their model kit section...smaller than before, most Round 2 kits gone, most Revell glue kits also gone, replaced in large part by Revell snap kits.  They're still good for paint, embossing powder, craft wire, airbrush jars, and all sorts of other stuff though.
  9. Mark added a post in a topic 1/25 MPC Carl Casper's Cosmic Charger Fuel Dragster   

    I saw two of them yesterday at a local shop.  They charge full retail, though, so neither of those followed me home.  I'll pick one up at another local shop that at least gives club members 10% off (offsets the sales tax, at least) then pick another one up online or at a show.
  10. Mark added a post in a topic 1959 Rambler Wagon   

    Because it was probably among those that were in the best condition.  When you look at the original Jo-Han offerings like the USA Oldies, you probably wonder why they didn't reissue things like the mid-Sixties Plymouths and Chryslers.  Simple...they probably weren't able to.  Even the ones that were reissued weren't exactly like the original kits; the '64 Cadillacs didn't have the steerable front end, those and the Marlin didn't have clear headlight lenses like the original kits, and some of the kits' interiors had later upholstery patterns.  They were putting together the stuff that was the most complete at the time, and trying to do it as cheaply as possible. 
  11. Mark added a post in a topic 1959 Rambler Wagon   

    It's an old Jo-Han promotional model...was never released as a kit when it was new.
  12. Mark added a post in a topic Model King 1971 Thunderbird   

    The Torinos differ slightly: '70 had the "Cobra" lettering on the front fender, '71 had it on the quarter panel.  '71 grille bar also has a small snake emblem in the center, '70 does not.
  13. Mark added a post in a topic MPC Soapy Sales Challenger Funny car ......   

    Same body...panel lines wiped, door handles and scripts removed.  Most of the original funny car kits were done after that year's annual stock kit but before next year's promo model, so they used stock bodies.  The Soapy Sales kit was issued after the '74 annual...with no '75 Challenger promo or annual kit on the way (and apparently no desire to reissue the stock '74), they were free to slick up the body for the funny car.  No different, really, than AMT converting several Sixties annuals into Modified Stockers, or turning the '63 Chevy II wagon into the Boss Nova...
  14. Mark added a post in a topic Indy 500 Pace Truck Decals Wanted....   

    Where did you find decals for that one in the first place?