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Everything posted by Mark

  1. Monogram (1/24 scale) '53 Chevy has a nice set of Chevy six headers. Don't know how, or if, they would work on a slant six if that's what you want them for. The '51 Chevy header is for the Fisher/Wayne cylinder head which is a crossflow. Pretty sure the exhaust for that is on the opposite side from stock Chevy. That head is actually for a GMC engine, they fudged it to fit the Chevy block but that's a story for another day...
  2. Chassis parts for those trucks were tough to find prior to the '78 reissue. I bought a couple of Express Trucks to get parts before the '78 reappeared. That didn't take care of wide box taillight lenses or bezels though, it seems most of those trucks were gluebombed back in the day.
  3. Mark


    Those weren't available back in '76, the demand increased along with the popularity of Mustang II front suspension swaps.
  4. Mark


    The drag version wouldn't use a stock rear axle. The new one would be five-lug. Front brake rotors or hubs can usually be redrilled to a five-lug pattern and the wheel studs pressed in. On occasion a rotor from another car is a direct swap.
  5. AMT and Revell made '62 Imperial kits. AMT made a convertible and two-door hardtop (some convertibles were in "SMP" boxes). Revell made a four-door hardtop. That bumper looks like AMT, detail is a bit finer than Revell's. AMT rear bumper has "1962" license plate while Revell's is blank.
  6. The Pumpin' Iron truck is a '79. Note the difference in the cowl detail between it and the other one, which is the more common one. Hoods seem to interchange between the two styles, but the Pumpin' Iron is correct for '79 and newer. If you get a later hood and grille, use them with that cab.
  7. Coronet hood will be way "easier" to find, as the kit included two hoods. That left a bunch of "extra" hoods in parts boxes once the kits were built. The Fury hood got a lot tougher to find with Modelhaus' closing. I found even less of a '65 Fury some years ago, first thing I did was get a Modelhaus hood next time I placed an order.
  8. When you do leave sufficient distance between your vehicle and the one in front of you, often another driver sees that as sufficient room to cut in...
  9. 1:1 car painters I have talked to, really concentrate on matching the spray pattern on adjoining panels. They have told me that paint colors can be matched better than ever, especially those with clearcoat. The reason for mismatch between adjoining panels on repaired cars is due to the difference in spray pattern between the replaced panels and the (often) robotically sprayed original areas, so they say. So spraying everything at the same time, in the same way, will definitely help.
  10. One might think the '64 GP might still exist, as many of the Seventies reissue "Grand Slam" '65 kits had '64 clear parts in the box (which didn't fit of course). I took one kit back to the store, and opened two more there...all had '64 glass. If I wanted to open another one, I had to take one of them...so I opted for my money back. Another one I got in a collection some years later also had '64 glass. Later production kits may have had the correct piece, but I never ran across one. Then again, the '65 kit has much of the engine from the '64. The same is true of the Bonneville kits...some engine parts (different tooling from the GP) are in '61 through '65 annual kits, and all reissues of the '65.
  11. I would never paint anything in such a way that I'd have to cut through freshly applied paint to separate the parts. That would be like painting a door in your house shut.
  12. Solid color: paint everything separately. Metallic, candy, pearl: paint jambs, back sides, undersides, and insides, then paint everything together. It might be possible to space the doors away from the body so nothing touches, yet everything gets the same blast of paint.
  13. HL and Michael's buy much larger quantities than anyone else, they are probably still selling off stock bought months ago. Michael's stores around here haven't gotten anything new in months.
  14. All of them use the same size rear tires. I'd think the tubs would be about the same size also.
  15. My mower had a carb problem last year, rather than mess with it I took it to a repair facility. If the gas tank was full on the previous mower, I'd turn it on one side and dump the gas out of the tank through the fill hole, then run it until the remaining gas ran out. I did that again with this one, turning it onto the side that was closest to the fill hole. The guy told me that was the "wrong" side, as the carb is on that side. But if I'd turned it the other way, not much gas would have come out as the filler would have been at the high end of the fuel tank when turned to that side. Now it's acting up again...I think I'll blow the fuel line out and clean the carb even though I haven't turned it on its side. I bought another carb (eight bucks for a new one online) as a backup. By the time I need another mower, or get tired of this one, the electrics will probably be perfected. The first mower (engine) lasted over twenty years, it outlasted several decks. The sheet metal deck would develop a crack, I'd have my brother weld it, and it would fracture somewhere near the weld. Last time around, I garbage picked another mower with a cast deck and swapped my engine onto it. Problem solved.
  16. If you have the choice locally, get "recreational gas" which is 100% gasoline, no alcohol.
  17. And, while you are at it, check the kit body against all reference material you can dig up. MPC probably cheated the body in one or more ways, in order to make it fit the Ford GT underpinnings. I'd make sure the body is as correct as can be, then do what needs to be done to get the Beetle pan underneath it.
  18. Get a stock Beetle pan anyway. If you have to shorten it, you can do so to match up with what you need, and the alteration will be that much more authentic.
  19. For kit parts, take a look at the AMT pro street '70 Coronet, and '69 GTX. The two kits have different floor pans (Coronet kick up is higher) and each kit has different suspension setups, so you want to examine both before making your choice. Both kits have better 426 Hemi engines than what is in the Little Red Wagon also.
  20. I didn't say there was a 1:1 '69, only that MPC made a '69 version of their kit. The '68 version was likely a good seller, so they probably wanted to sell more after the body had been updated to '69 spec.
  21. '69 had different box art, similar to that copied by RC2 for their infamous Nostalgia Series reissue of the AMT '66.
  22. MPC offered that kit in both '68 and '69 versions. I have one complete '69 and parts of another including the body (which, for this kit, has the hood molded closed).
  23. The MPC '60 Corvette does not have the radiused rear wheel openings like their '57 always did. The flip-front '60 does have them though. The AMT '60 kit pictured is indeed a '60. It has the '60 seat upholstery pattern and an engine, which the (SMP) '59 kits did not have. The confusion stems from the first couple of reissues which were boxed as '59. The Revell kit with the multiple piece body really quite a good kit) is always called a '60 but is actually a '59. Again, correct for '59 upholstery details. The original issue, with stock wheel covers and plastic tires, is labeled a '59 if I remember right. Annual kits were branded SMP through '61. There was no Corvette annual kit in '58. The shape of the side coves on the newer tool AMT '57 body are a bit off.
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