Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Bob Turner2

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Bob Turner2

  • Rank
    MCM Regular
  • Birthday 09/06/1957

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    United States
  • Full Name
    Bob Turner

Recent Profile Visitors

2,600 profile views
  1. Hey, my copy came too! And I don't even have a subscription! Only drawback is mine seems to be printed with invisible ink on invisible paper. Sure makes it hard to read.......
  2. Perhaps MCM will cover it too, in issue #206, or 207, maybe 208. #206 should be out sometime between this Sept & next April. #207 sometime in 2021/2022, & #208? Likely the twelfth of Never......
  3. No. There's a thread on the old JoHan tooling on this very page, but long, convoluted story short, 99%-99.9% of JoHan's tooling is long gone & lost forever. JoHan is not coming back. Ever.
  4. Very well put on the entire subject. I feel you're correct on the aspect of the timing, insofar as the mold condition goes, but, also based on prior sales of certain subjects of their own. Round2 has been doing this for what. ten years since leasing the tooling from Tomy before purchasing it? One would think that in that time they've managed to figure out how to run the business, competition or not. Surely they've got a better grasp on the entire situation than someone with no connection to the company, nor experience in the field, who's merely yelling from the sidelines. Right now, just based on the amount of tooling & the licensed trademarks at their disposal, (AMT, MPC, Lindberg, Polar Lights, Hawk, [add in Pyro & some IMC tooling, if not the actual respective trademarks themselves], to pick from), & the fact that the Revell/Monogram situation is still getting worked out, as far as domestic kits for the US market goes, Round2 has no real competition to speak of. Sure, there is Moebius, but they're pretty much a niche manufacturer compared to Round2, at least in the depth & breath of the amount of amount of tooling they can choose from, (witness the many Hudson Hornet & 65 Plymouth variations they've relied upon), & having just gone through a sale to someone else themselves, they may not be positioned to compete with Round2 for the foreseeable future. At this point Round2 has likely 90-95% of the domestic market sewn up.
  5. The delay was due to Round2 cutting all new tooling for some long lost parts that hadn't been in the kit in years. Here's all the info on that, posted on Round2's "Collector Model" blog in 2016, shortly before the kit was reissued: http://www.collectormodel.com/round2-models/2554-the-inside-scoop-on-amts-1929-ford-model-a-mod-rod-reissue/ Page five of the AMT section at Round2's site shows that both the standard box version, & the "Original Art Series" version are still listed, which means that they are still in the catalog: http://round2corp.com/product-category/amt/page/5/ It has also been stated several times by everyone else here that the AMT kit is still easily available on hobby shop shelves. I have no earthly idea what point you're attempting to make here, as everything you're posted in this thread reeks of circular logic. With all the information that been presented by others in this thread, your continuous comments are quite simply illogical, & have no basis in anything, let alone facts.
  6. The generic Comet Pro Stocker, (2nd kit in line), cost me $55 still sealed at a swapmeet last year. I got that 69 Roadrunner still sealed for $35 at a swapmeet about seven years ago. In the past three years I've gotten two of the generic Mustang FC reissues, (fictional "Trojan Horse" instead of Mickey Thompson decals), one for $30, & one for $35, both open but complete. A 1970 Eldorado open/complete ran me $30 a few years ago, & a sealed 1964 Dodge "Recharged" Super Stocker cost me $40 last year. Hit model swapmeets, as you can usually find JoHan kits at a somewhat decent price there, compared to ebay & some online kit vendors.. Now "decent" depends on if you compare them to the original price, or to what most domestic kits cost these days! If it's the former, $30-$50 might seem steep. If the latter, then $30-$50 for a kit that's never going to return compared to $30 or so for a reissued kit that's easily available is a real bargain! Depending where you're at in NY, I've heard the NNL East in NJ is a great one to get kits at. Shopping around is indeed the best bet, & this is one instance where actually doing the shopping physically instead of online will likely net you a much better deal.
  7. An even better bang for the buck is either of the ones issued when AMT was owned by RC2, believe it or not. Either the one with the blue Firebird on the box, or the "Johnny Lightning version with the yellow car on the box & with a 1/64th diecast included. Why do I say this? Those two have got the optional Ram Air style air cleaner included, which the one with the orange car doesn't have. I've got both the orange & the blue cars, so I can verify this. Do note the blue car version does not have that air cleaner shown on the instructions, but it is in the kit. The yellow car does show it in the instructions.
  8. Bob Turner2

    30 A-Bone

    Great looking model! And, I've got an idea for your air cleaner if you want to change it. The one on it looks good, but if you have another oval one, but ribbed like the valve covers, that would look really sharp, & perfectly tie the engine together visually.
  9. Nice OOB build of a very finicky kit! It's red! I agree on what a pain the doors are on this kit. On it's history; IMC tooled it up originally, (Bud Anderson helped design it after he left AMT, but I can't remember if he went to IMC, then MPC from AMT, or vice versa). IMC merged with Hawk in the late 60s, (I have a complete unbuilt IMC Dodge L700 COE that has the "IMC/Hawk" logo on the instructions), & Testors bought out both companies in 69/early 70s, & reissued many of their kits back then. Lindberg got it when RPM International, owner of Testor Corporation bought them out, & merged the product lines together. That's why what IMC tooling was left in the US was reissued under Lindberg.
  10. If i were a betting man, I'd be more inclined to place a wager on the Cougar myself, as for some reason that seems a viable possibility. Of course it's just as likely that we'll get another hot rod kit if it's Revell. Not that there's anything wrong with that, as I build those also, but I'd prefer something a bit different.
  11. Agreed. I'm in my 60s, so I'd certainly qualify as an "adult modeler", & though I'm not particularly fond of the current styling of the Vette, as far as performance goes, the ZR1 delivers. While kits of some of the other cars he mentioned would also please me, I don't just look in the past.
  12. Nice build! Your BMF skills will get better the more you use it, & while spilling glue on the windshield is a pain, we're only human after all. Considering what you started with, you've built something to be proud of. Can I give you some friendly advice & techniques that works for me, in the area of making darker panel lines, such as on the doors? I used to do mine in solid black as well, before I learned these techniques. The solid black tends to stand out too much, & doesn't look in scale. Get a Sakura Micron Black Technical Pen. Better yet, get two, one in 005, (.20 mm), size & one in 01, (.25 mm), size. The latter is one size up from the former & between the two you should have almost ever panel line in 1/25th & 1/24th scale covered. You can find them online, at any Hobby Lobby, Michaels, & Blick Art, in the art supply sections. Here's a link to the info on the pens: https://sakuraofamerica.com/pen-archival Now, though these are black too, they are a much finer line than other techniques, & besides, they're not going to be the final panel line you see. I use them under primer, & then under paint. On a light colored car, they will appear as a very soft/light gray/black under the paint, much like the door lines look on a 1/1 car. For darker shades I do the same, then I follow with Tamiya Smoke acrylic bottle paint in the door/trunk lines once the final top coat has cured, thinned with their acrylic thinner. Smoke is something of a transparent black/brown, & once thinned for a panel line wash, will have the same effect. Give these ideas a try! They work well for me.
  13. Thank you sir, thank you! You are referring to the hobby itself, & not the aftermarket paint company I'm guessing? For the record, I'd personally love an accurate new tool of either a 67 or 68 Cougar, or a 68 Coronet, especially if the company was willing to make the changes needed for different variations, (XR-7, GTE, R/T vs Super Bee), even some mainstream versions as options.
  14. Given the level of civil discourse here, (or the lack thereof, your mileage may vary), I would expect nothing else......
  15. Not much need to speculate on any of that. With Revell it's almost a given that something on the body will be so obviously, so glaringly wrong that Stevie Wonder couldn't miss it & he's blind. If perchance he did overlook it, Ray Charles could likely point the error out to him, & the last I knew, that gentleman is both blind & dead. Meanwhile, the great unwashed of the hobby will praise them to the high heavens for creating such an "awesome" kit, excoriate anyone that points out said major flaws, make the claim that if we don't buy cases of the kit that Revell will stop making models, (this despite the fact that they've been doing just that for some seventy years), claim we're all playing with toys & that we shouldn't mention things like this on a model car forum, because there are far worse things to contemplate in real life, (no matter the fact that a forum dedicated to discussing, wait for it; model cars, is the perfect place to bring up such issues), & reduce themselves to the level of fifth graders making personal attacks on those that can see & do point out the flaws, simply because they have no logical argument that can defend said flaws. All the while they'll be clapping their flippers & barking like trained seals tossed a fish, & proclaiming the kit is of "Tamiya like quality" when the closest they've ever been to a Tamiya kit is looking at the outside box of one. That's usually painfully obvious by the domestic kits & their level of "quality" they've tried to pin that appellation on in the past. Lather, rinse, repeat, ad infinitum.....
  • Create New...