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  • Location
    About 40 miles NW of Chicago
  • Full Name
    John Kowalski

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  1. The car's body is attached to the frame with small screws. I held the screws in place with tweezers and tightened them with an eyeglass repair screwdriver. The body and firewall have been installed. Initially I was planning on polishing the paint to a high gloss, but I don't think that the automotive paints of the 1930's produced a high gloss finish. Here is a size comparison between the 1/12 scale Alfa and a 1/24 scale Willys.
  2. The floor pan is molded in black plastic with an embossed texture representing a rubber mat. First I painted the pan the same red color as the car. The embossed mat was painted flat black and the foot board was finished with Bare Metal Foil. The result was too clean looking so I used Aqualine Mud to simulate dirt. The seat is finished.
  3. Applying the faux-leather to the seat is almost finished. I think that it looks pretty good. The sparkplug wires are finished. There is a lot of cool looking stuff on the right side of the engine. However, the engine needs more dirt and oil stains. Both sides of the rear body panel have numerous dents. I was thinking of using Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty. I would appreciate any suggestions as to how to fix the problem. Thanks in advance.
  4. The kit's seat is a very smooth plastic. The 1:1 car had leather seats. I have no idea as to how to make paint look like leather, so i went to Hobby Lobby and bought some faux leather. I cut the material into strips and glued the material to the seat with Gator's Grip Hobby Glue. The glue needs to dry overnight before adding the next strip of material, so finishing the seat will take a while. I started the seat last week. Included in the kit was spark plug wires made from silicone tubing. I did not like how that looked so I bought some 1/12 scale spark plug wires from Model Motorcars. I used the kit's silicone tubing as boots. I glued the silicone boots to the distributor and spark plugs with CA. The CA needs to set overnight before adding the next spark plug wire. This is a slow and tedious project.
  5. There is no way that this is a model car. I think that you are building a 1:1 car from scratch. Can I drive it when you are finished?
  6. This is a photo of the engine on a 1:1 car. It is a supercharged straight eight. The engine block and oil pan have really nice molded details. I added some dirt using AquaLine Brown Mud. IMHO, there isn't enough dirt. I'll add some more later. This is a large engine. Note the comparison with a 1/24 scale V8.
  7. Your build is coming along nicely. Great color and detailing. When I was in college a friend of mine had a '66 GTO with a 389 engine and tri-power. That thing was insanely fast. He would rev the engine, drop the clutch and floor the accelerator. The car would lift off the ground and shoot forward like a rocket. Amazing car.
  8. It is possible to to install the front axel backwards, which would cause a big problem when installing the shocks. You need to look at the instructions very carefully to understand which way the axel is installed. The gold arrows point at two molded screws. These screws need to point toward the front of the frame when the axel is installed. This is easy to miss. The red arrows point toward two parts that the shocks are screwed into. These parts must point to the front of the frame. I used a screwdriver from an eyeglass repair kit. The rear axel was installed without a hitch. The metal screws and bolts add a nice touch. The rear axel was installed without a hitch.
  9. Fernando told me that five wire wheels are about $145. I need to figure out how to send him the money via PayPal.
  10. I assembled the springs and painted the coolant pipes while I waited for the enamel paint on the friction shocks to dry. The springs are composed of a leaf spring, shackles and steel bolts. I added dirt and dust to the springs using AquaLine Brown Mud. The Brown Mud is water soluble and it can be reactivated after it dries by using water. The spring shackles are attached to the frame using steel bolts. I added a drop of clear paint onto the bolt threads to prevent the nut from getting loose. Per the instructions, the frame is painted with Tamiya Mica Red. I dirtied the frame with the AquaLine Brown Mud. The pipes were painted with Model Master Aluminum Metallizer. I buffed the paint using a paper stump. The rubber hoses were painted flat black and the clamps were painted Testors' Chrome.
  11. Those are nice looking wheels. I will look into those. The real wire wheels would vastly improve the look of the finished model. Thanks for the tip.
  12. Next up are the friction shocks. There are six sets of these and each set has 12 parts. Each part needs to be painted and the paint needs to dry overnight.
  13. The wire wheels are molded in plastic. Yep, the spokes are a bit too thick. Maybe there are real wire wheels for sale somewhere on the internet. But I'll bet that they are a fortune.
  14. The plastic parts are covered in mold release oil. In fact, the oil is visible. The parts need to be washed in something like Dawn Dishwashing detergent prior to painting. The wire wheels are plastic. I'll provide a photo tomorrow.
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