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JohnnyK

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About JohnnyK

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    About 40 miles NW of Chicago
  • Full Name
    John Kowalski

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  1. Update March 7, 2021 I added a few wires to the ignition module. The ignition module has been installed and the main fuel lines and fuel filter have been installed. Here is a closeup of the fuel filter. Stainless steel hose clamps were provided at the ends of the main fuel lines.
  2. Okay, now I understand. The kit is a very old kit and did not include any PE parts. eBay has PE parts for this kit, but the prices are way too high.
  3. Update March 4, 2021 Finally, I finished the exhaust system. The final result looks impressive, but it was no fun to build. Tomorrow I get my second CIVID shot at a Walgreens about 30 miles from my house.
  4. I have no experience with the 1/20 scale models. I would think that the 1/20 scale models would have less parts then the 1/12 scale models.
  5. I built the six wheeler last year: 1/12 Tamiya ELF P34 six wheeler - Other Racing: Road Racing, Salt Flat Racers - Model Cars Magazine Forum The six wheeler was a difficult build due to the complicated front suspension. Where are you purchasing your kits:
  6. Update March 3, 2021 Nine headers installed so far. Just three more to go.
  7. HI, Go here to purchase the bolts: https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware I use 1.2mm x 6mm and 1.0mm x 3mm stainless steel bolts. They are too long so I cut them with some old nippers. I put my hand into a plastic bag when I cut the bolt so that the bolt doesn't go flying into outer space, First I cut the plastic bolt heads off with the same nippers that I use to cut parts from a fret. Then I drill a hole to accept the metal bolt. I use super glue to hold the metal bolts in place. You mentioned that you have some concerns about starting this kit. Is this your first 1/12 scale kit? Building a 1/12 scale kit is way different than building a 1/24 scale kit. I am a retired architect so I tend to be obssessed with details which is why I like these big scale kits. I would think that if you have been building models for a while you shouldn't have any issues with this kit. Just keep in mind that these kits take a long time to complete.
  8. The second set of headers has been installed. That needs to sit overnight.
  9. The headers (red arrow) have noticeable mold lines that need to be removed. The exhaust pipes are not round in cross section. The exhaust pipe tips are too thick. After removing the mold lines on the headers I placed them in small containers marked with the part numbers to prevent them from getting mixed up. I substituted aluminum tubing for the plastic exhaust pipes. I turned the tube around the end of a small pliers to form the flared tips. Installing the headers, collector and exhaust pipe is no easy task. A third hand, or prehensile tail, would be of great help. The trick is to use a slow setting, sticky glue. This allows you to jiggle the three headers and the collector around in order to get them in the correct alignment. I used red label Testors' glue and put a blob of glue into the flange hole and some glue on the tips of the headers. After a minute or so the plastic became soft and sticky. After I assemble the parts, the sticky glue provided me the time to move the parts around until they were correctly aligned. The glue needs to cure overnight.
  10. First I painted the rear brake housings with Model Master Metallizer Aluminum Plate. After the paint dried I painted it with a clear flat (left ). I didn't like the way that looked so I used Testors' Createfx Acrylic Wash to highlight the molded details. I also replaced the plastic bold heads with metal bolt heads. The transmission, brakes and cooling ducts were added to the engine block. I replaced as many plastic bolt heads with metal bolt heads as possible. All of detailed moldings in the plastic parts were highlighted with a combination of Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color and a thin black wash. The sharp edges of the moldings were highlighted by rubbing them with a lead pencil. Next up is installing the 12 exhaust headers­čśÁ
  11. Did they play Tom Sawyer? Gotta' love that drummer!
  12. The spark plug cables and fuel lines have been installed. The tubing used for the fuel lines was soft enough so that there was no kinking. I cut the insulation from a mouse cable into thin rings. The rings were used to organize the cables and fuel lines. Nice and tidy. Instead of a rubber hose I installed a braided oil line that I found in my extra box. I also used photo etched hose clamps.
  13. The fuel lines were attached to the fuel injection distributor using Gator Glue. The tubing is very flexible and tinted a slight yellow. Maybe this is due to it's age.
  14. The engine block was painted with Model Master Metallizer Aluminum Plate. After the paint dried I painted it with a flat clear topcoat. I made a decision early on that this build will look like it has just finished a race. In other words, it will look dirty. I used a combination of a mud colored wash and Testors' Acrylic Wash on the engine block. The bottom of the engine block is dirtier than the top. The washes nicely highlight the molded details.
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