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About peteski

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    New England, USA
  • Full Name
    Peter W.

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  1. When applying tint film to 1:1 vehicle windows you use water and squeegee (to prevent air bubbles). Did you try that on the model's window, or were you applying he tint film dry?
  2. I suspect that using paper does not give very accurate results as it absorbs some of the paints binder. Styrene would be a better surface to use. That is what I use. Of course painting the lid of the bottle, or the cap on the spray can also works well. That is how paint cans were sold back in the day - caps were actually painted with the paint in the can. But most companies have taken the cheaper way out to just mold the cap from approximately colored plastic. Not quite the same (especially for metallic colors).
  3. Joints between styrene parts made using small amount of 5-minute epoxy can be broken fairly easily.
  4. I have nice stash of the original stuff from years ago. Few months ago I picked up a sheet from my local hobby shop, but it looks and behaves as well as I woudl expect from the original chrome. I suppose to try getting some of the "bad" foil.
  5. What kit is that? I have the Tamiya kit 24082 Mazda MX-5 Miata and it is a LHD kit. Was there another version of the Miata? If the one you have is RHD, it woudl be probably easiest to just get the kit I have.
  6. Jerry, If you check their profiles, both people who posted in this thread haven't visited here for years. I doubt they will see your request. It is also not a good idea to post your phone number in a public forum.
  7. Some contests have a "collaboration" category for when multiple individuals created the contest entry. Other shows allow models to be entered for display only -- those will be still enjoyed by the spectators, but will not be judged. If the contest you are planning to attend does not have either of those options, you can also contact the contest organizers, and ask if they would allow you to display your work. Most will gladly agree.
  8. That's correct. Quoting the website I liked to in my last post: Associated Hobby Manufacturers got its start in Philadelphia in the 1940s by Bernard Paul, who, legend has it, sold balsa wood model airplanes in the back of his mother's candy shop. After establishing his model railroad business in the 1950s, one of Paul's first moves was to take on the Hobby Industry of America which, intent on putting importers like AHM and Polk's of New York out of business, passed a ruling that trade show exhibitors had to pay $300 for each brand they showed. Since Paul imported 40-50 brands, it made for an untenable situation, so he had everything repackaged for his "H.O. Train Company" brand. (Polk's pulled the same stunt using their "Aristo-Craft" brand.)
  9. I didn't state that Hasegawa stuff was a viable alternative, and I don't believe anybody else stated that directly. IMO, it will work in certain applications, but not in others. I'll try it one my next build which needs chromed areas (but that won't be for quite some time - I'm concentrating on model RR stuff now).
  10. I have been buying from Hobby Link Japan for decades. Not often, but I do buy things there. Never had any problems. It is a legitimate large online hobby shop. I used to also order from Rainbow 10 (a brick and mortar hobby shop in Shizuoka City I had a pleasure of visiting). No problems, but they don't do online sales anymore. Hobby Search Japan is also another large online vendor where I have ordered multiple times, problem free. Shipping charges (especially nowadays) can be on the high side, but the Japanese (domestic to them) kit prices are usually less than the same kits in USA. If you buy several items, the cost is IMO not that bad, especially when they have something you want, which cant' be had in USA. I have also seen Japanese kits listed on eBay by some Japanese sellers, with some outrageous shipping costs. No thanks.
  11. They also sold N scale model RR items (like locos, cars and even structure kits). Those were all just reboxed items made by other companies. http://www.davidksmith.com/birth-of-n/ahm.htm
  12. Thinner and more stretchy than Mylar (or wherever Pop Tart wrap or other metalized food packages are made of). It is sort of like scaled down version of 1:1 (vinyl?) car wrapping material.
  13. Something strange is going on with Snake Pliskin's account. Not only the joining date and the last visited date is the same, according to the profile he has made zero posts. EDIT: never mind - you were looking for the other snake.
  14. How old was his post you found? If you were to check his profile info, you would notice that he Last visited May 5, 2011 So, either his PM Inbox is full, or maybe his account was made inactive.
  15. I got some of the Hasegawa foil, and did a small test application. It is actually very thin metalized vinyl (?) film with adhesive back. It looks just like chrome, and it has some stretch to it. it will to some extent stretch over convex curved surfaces. But if it is stretched to fit depressions, it will eventually pull back and "relax" to almost to the un-stretched state. It should work well for chroming simple protruding features, but it is nowhere like the original BMF. But it sure looks "chromier". Of course it is also very pricey.
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