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peteski

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    New England, USA
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    Peter W.

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  1. I did few small tests some months ago, when I first received my sheet, and I don't recall having problems trimming it on the model. Maybe I'm not remembering it. I do agree that it looks just like chrome, where the BMF has slightly duller look, and a slightly warm tone.
  2. Mike, I thought that by "tags" you mean the tags you assign on this forum when creating the first post of a new thread. But your question is not very clear. Are those the tags you mean, or some other tags? And why is Google part of the problem?
  3. I had to reread Patric's post couple of times to get the gist of it. Not Patric's fault - my brain was focusing on Molotow (since the thread is about Molotow). Patrick is stating that there are now other brands of chrome pens available at HL, and asking whether anybody has tried any of them (not Molotow).
  4. I agree that Hasegawa products are high quality. I also did not say that it shrinks. It merely tries to go return to its relaxed state if it was burnished into depressions on the model's surface. That process does take several days, and it doesn't fully flatten, but I can take a toothpick and press the foil back into the concave area. It is likely because it is a stretchy plastic film which wants to go back to its relaxed state (because it was not stretched enough to permanently deform it). When metal foils are used for the same task, the metal permanently stretches into the concave areas. The Hasegawa adhesive seems quite strong and I don't think it will dry out.
  5. Could be I guess. I just quote the info directly from the horse's mouth.
  6. Ah ok, I'm used to seeing small-block Chevy engines. got it.
  7. I found the skill level definition on https://www.revell.de/en/faqs/ It confirms that the rating is strictly based on parts count. FAQ 13: What is the meaning of the Skill Level indications for the model kits? The indication of the Skill Level (1-5) can be found on every Revell model kit. These levels categorise the model kits into different difficulty levels. They can serve as important guide for your purchase decision and help to avoid that a modeller buys a model kit which is “too easy“ or “too complex“. The Skill Levels represent the following product characteristics: [1] includes snap kits for beginners which do not need to be glued or painted. [2] comprehends simple model kits to be glued and painted with up to 30 parts for beginners. [3] is the category for challenging models with up to 100 parts to be glued and painted. [4] is suited for experienced modellers, with up to 150 parts to be glued and painted. [5] refers to models requiring the highest handicraft skill level, with more than 150 individual parts to be glued and painted.
  8. Not sure if I follow. If you remove the intake manifold on a 1:1 V8 engine, you will expose the lifter valley. No?
  9. If by cutting you mean trimming the film after it is applied to the model, I don't see cutting as a problem.Very sharp hobby knife or scalpel work well (just like with BMF). But if the film has to be made to conform (stretched) to adhere to depressions it will eventually want to return to its unstretched state. That is a problem.
  10. I read somewhere that the Revell's difficulty rating is directly related to the kit's parts count, not the actual difficulty of assembly or the poor fit of the parts. EDID: Seems that I've just seen it in Helmut's other thread.
  11. I never had problems with BMF decal paper (and Alps printed decals). I don't overcoat the decal before application since Alps wax ink is waterproof. You should not need the overcoat either, as laser printer toner is also waterproof. Only decals printed with ink jet on ink jet paper have to be overcoated as ink jet inks are water soluble. Also are you sure you are using laser compatible decal paper (not ink jet compatible)?
  12. Ok, what a wonderful advice. Thank you *SO* much. 👍 The problem is that I enjoy participating in this section - just kill all the death notices.
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