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peteski

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About peteski

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build
    Multiple.

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  • Location
    New England, USA
  • Full Name
    Peter W.

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  1. Someone mentioned this "helpful" hint some years back. I tried and never again!!! When peeling the stuff off your model, it leaves tiny pieces of adhesive behind.
  2. If the tolerances are close enough, that might be an option. Iit will likely work well for larger images, but if you have for example bunch of small yellow letters to be applied to a dark colored model, it will be quite a challenge to get them cut out accurately, then evenly apply them to the model, one by one.
  3. It is not that easy. If someone did take over the business, they would also have to be as fastidious and quality oriented as Don was to produce those fine castings everybody is pining for. You could have some hack take the business over and make shoddy castings with bunch of pinholes and other flaws. Who would want to buy those. From what I see around me, fastidious people are hard to come by nowadays.
  4. Standard printers use translucent Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow inks for printing color images. For true color rendition they rely on the inks being applied over white background (paper). Decals printed on clear film will be translucent when applied to a non-white surface. They will almost disappear on very dark surfaces. Of course, you can print on white decal film, but then you have to trim the images really carefully or the white film will show up on the model. Alps MD (MicroDry) series of printers can print white ink and they can print colors over the white ink areas. (in overlay mode). That is really the only printer that can truly print good opaque color decals. Of course it is out of production, and if you can find a used one, it will be very expensive. There are also some color laser printers available which can print white (the black toner is replaced with white), but they are also pricey.
  5. I suspected as much, but it is still amazing feat of engineering to me. The liquid plastic feed rate has to be just right so the right amounts of the colored plastic do not overflow into where the other color will be injected.
  6. I remember it well. I also remember that evening how quiet the sky was with no airplanes flying anywhere. It was eerie. As far as remembering goes, there are 18 year old young adults who weren't even born when 9/11 happened. They can't remember, but should be reminded.
  7. Still irks me. Understanding what you are using and how it works makes for a better modeler. I'm just trying to teach. Same like when people call water-based paints "Acrylics", even though there are organic-solvent based acrylic lacquers and enamels.
  8. From what I understand, the shutdown is temporary - they will be available once he reopens for business. I have seen several cottage-industries (usually 1-man operations) temporarily shutdown due to some reason. Personal issues, sickness, temporary unavailability of raw materials, etc. It happens. But obviously he can still put some of his spare time onto designing the artwork.
  9. Why people keep calling it wax?! Future (or whatever the latest iteration is called) is a floor finish. Waxes have no thickness - this is a clear coat which has some body to it. If you have something else you are using now to add a gloss to your models, it is also likely not a wax, but some sort of a clear coat.
  10. I believe that the info on Swanny's site is still current (from 2015). Worth a read and look! http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
  11. What I find really amazing is the Gundam figure kits where injection molded parts have multiple colors on the same part! Not painted - it is colored plastic.
  12. There have been few threads where I abstained from commenting out of fear that my comments might be negatively received.
  13. Last Saturday, at my club's meeting, my friend brought one of their aircraft kits. The quality of resin castings is amazing! And they are as thin (and sturdy) as injection molded kits. The instructions are also really well done.
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