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peteski

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About peteski

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    New England, USA
  • Full Name
    Peter W.

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  1. Go to the files section https://alps.groups.io/g/ALPS/files/Drivers/Apple_Mac and look around. Like I said, I don't deal with Macs., but maybe Alps_Mac_driver_requirements.txt and Alps_MAC_compatibility_notes.txt will be a good start?
  2. I'm not sure why you would suggest using solder to bond plastic. You also just posted to thread that was last active 6 years ago.
  3. Sure, most of us here are old men (over 50) spending lots of money on all sorts of toys (model cars are considered toys after all). Other old men are into different toys (stuff you mentioned, like Legos, Star Trek, Transformers, and other toys). We are adults, and we can spend our own money they way we choose. But I believe Earl was alluding to the fact that children's programs are just an extended infomercials for all the show-themed toys. That is what he objects to. Those nagging kids wanting all those goodies they see on TV. The boob-tube is turning nice kids into zombie-consumers (with the parents footing the bills).
  4. I think he means merchandising toys based on all those children TV programs (and movies), not plastic model kits. Not quite the same.
  5. If the network is WiFi, it will handle multiple computers. If it is a wired network, each computer needs to be connected to a separate port on the router. The cable modems/routers usually have multiple network ports that can be utilized. Mine does WiFi, and also has 4 network ports available on the rear panel. As for any questions/drivers related to Alps, join the Alps group I mentioned in my last post.
  6. There are also other choices of rusting solutions for modelers. Another one is https://www.rustall.com/
  7. With the ever-increasing, Spam filtering makes email communication iffy. If your email account is Yahoo, Hotmail, or similar, those are often tagged as Spam. Your email might have been tagged as Spam by Firebird's email provider. I would not give up after first failed attempt. Try sending another email (maybe from another email account, if you have one). Sometimes the subject line, or even the contents of the email can trigger false Spam tag. It is unfortunate, but we just have to expect that. An yes, sometimes people (especially when the business is a side-gig) will take several days to respond. Heck, they could be away on vacation, not checking emails. Don't give up!
  8. John, Since this is unrelated to Reliable Resin, or even to 1:24 scale, why not just start a separate thread about your TVF1 experience? That way the new subject line will make it easier for members to find your experience with that vendor (not buried inside Reliable Resin thread).
  9. Yes, standard twisted pair copper phone line has a limited bandwidth. It is around 3kHz (which is what was needed for low-quality human speech transmission. Of course the advancing technology enabled to squeeze more bandwidth out of that 100-year-old copper wire technology. If you were within short enough distance from the central office, the DSL technology allowed for fairly high data transfer rates. Before internet I used to use my 300 baud modem to call bulletin boards (BBS) to read and post messages. The 300 baud speed was a comfortable speeds to read as the text message was being transferred. It was all text-only - no pictures. Well, there was ASCII art, but that was painfully slow, so it wasn't user much.
  10. LOL! That reminded me of the early days of online forums where some people still accessed the Internet via telephone line modems. When we posted larger resolution photos (and even those were really low-res compared to what we have now), we used to put a warning "not 56k safe" or "not 28.8k safe" in the subject line, so people would not get stuck waiting few minutes for the photo download over their slow connection.
  11. I always try to resize the photos I upload to be less than 1200 pixels across (which makes them around 1 Megapixel), making the JPG file size usually 200kB or less. I really don't see the need to post high resolution photos to a forum, just to be viewed on a computer, or even tinier smart-phone screen. That saves space on the server and makes the backups faster too. Yes, it takes extra time and effort on my part, but I think it is worth it.
  12. That is a peeve of mine too. I guess it would be too much trouble for some, and others probably didn't even think to do it. Not only quoted photos can be deleted, then can be edited and resized. Sometimes quoting a photo is necessary to the reply,. I usually leave the quoted photo but click on it and edit it to a smaller size (like 300 pixels across). like a large thumbnail). I guess I like to do what I would expect others to do to make reading threads easier, with less needless scrolling through lots of quoted photos.
  13. Exactly, that is why in my post I user "oh" in the American context, and "zero" in the Britis context. While it is a "zero" gauge, Americans chose to represent it with an uppercase "oh". I tried to explain that on a U.S. model RR forum I frequent, but it is a losing battle.
  14. Looks like more companies are changing their parts metalizing process and are using electroplating, which results in a thicker layer of metal over the plastic. That is good for the parts durability, but as mentioned, becomes a real hassle when it comes to removing the metal layer for gluing. The thicker plating can also obscure small details. As I understand, electroplating plastic starts off with application of electrically conductive lacquer. Then, since the parts are now electrically conductive, the rest of the process is similar to how metal parts get electroplated. First a layer of copper is plated over the part, then the final coat of chrome, nickel, or whatever shiny silver metal is being used. I think on 1:1 cars there is an intermediate layer of nickel applied between the copper and chromium. I"m not sure why this change to the new plating method is occurring. The "standard" vacuum metalizing is a fairly simple and clean process. Parts are sprayed with a clear base coat (to make them smooth and glossy), they are placed in a vacuum chamber where sliver of aluminum is vaporized (electrically). That produces the chrome-like look. That's all. Sometimes an additional clear coat is applied to protect the delicate metallic layer. The "new" electroplating method is messier, and it involves not only more steps, but also nasty, poisonous chemicals. Except for durability I don't see any advantages to this process. And since these are usually static models which do not get handled, durability is not really an issue. Plus, I like the looks of the old-style plated parts.
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