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peteski

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About peteski

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build
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  • Location
    New England, USA
  • Full Name
    Peter W.

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  1. Tom, This is a fairly simple decal. I have the logo in vector format, and the rest is just plain lettering. From what I can see in the picture you posted, that looks like a Microscale decal sheet. Microscale made those decals? What kit was it for? If you give me the dimensions of the decal sheet (or of the logos), I could create a vector artwork for you that you could use to print your own decal on an ink jet printer, or have some custom decal maker print it for you. These will be applied to a white surface, so no white undercoating for the decal is needed.
  2. Are you serious, or joking Tom? Those spoke wheels and tires look like something you find on a child's toy. I would not pay $2 for them. The entire "model" looks like a $18 kid's toy. I think you must be joking - you are one of the NNL East organizers - you have a good idea of what a flawless model looks like.
  3. That is a really weird moulding flaw!
  4. With all that metal (body. seats), your model's weight will probably be to scale with the 1:1 vehicle! compared to plastic kits, that model must be really heavy!
  5. There are many hobby-size laser cutters on eBay. Even Micro-Mark sells them. It woudl be a nice addition to my hobby tool arsenal.
  6. This is only the 2nd FSM issue after the demise of SA mag. Give them a chance to expand on the automotive coverage. I have been FSM subscriber for over 30 years, and I don't have any expectations that it will even be like SA mag. It is not, and will never be like SA. but it is nice to see them cover a wider range of subjects (like automotive, Sci-Fi, figures, and civilian aircraft/ships.
  7. If you were spraying the paint too heavily, it woudl result in a wet ,shiny (and possibly runny) surface. Never gritty. Was the grittiness apparent as you were spraying, or when the paint was wet it was glossy, then the grittiness showed up as the paint dried?
  8. Thanks guys! I built that wrecker close to 30 years ago. One of these days I'll scan more of the photos I took back then (with a film camera), and post it in Under Glass section. I agree that by using flat finish with different sheen levels, (dead flat, flat, satin, semigloss) will produce different dulling effect on "chromed" parts. I mostly use Testors Dull- and Gloss-cote, and I make custom mixtures of both to produce different levels of sheen.
  9. So just to be clear, Alclad Silver Candy Base paint is more durable than Alclad Chrome over gloss black (without any need for extra top clear coat like Future)? That is how I understood your earlier post.
  10. Canada? That's odd. Not sure how you got there. I bought the wheels on American eBay, and all his listings there are in US$. Here is link to those listings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/forward_resin/m.html
  11. Good for you! Looks like a fun ride (especially with 120 hp under the hood for its weight). I don't see anything ugly about your car. You are rigth., U.S. government regulations in the '70s ruined the looks of many foreign cars. The 5 MPH bumpers and the sealed-beam headlights just to mention the main reasons for this.
  12. I've sprayed Testors Dullcote to make the "chromed" (metalized plastic) model wheels look like brushed or satin aluminum. I have also done that to model truck fuel tanks. I masked the straps to leave them "chrome", and sprayed the tank with Dullcote. Then I took a fine black permanent marker and drew in the "rubber cushion" under the straps.
  13. I suspected it was an Australian Chrysler product.
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