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Everything posted by peteski

  1. Yes they are! And for my large order I was able to deal with that seller directly.
  2. Thanks Bill. I checked out zoomonmodel.com and they have lots of goodies listed there. They seem legitimate. Placed a substantial order last night (including those Mercedes logos). Good stuff! The purchase was also super-easy with PayPal. Plus the scripts are much less expensive than from the French seller on eBay. Don't let the Hong Kong dollar prices scare you.
  3. Yes, what Steve wrote (about airbrush-ready automotive colors made for hobbyists) is all true, but those are *NOT* plastic-compatible hobby paints. They are based on 1:1 automotive paints so there might be some bad interactions with plastic and/or primers. Things get a bit more complicated then when using specific hobby paints (like Tamiya). Just like I mentioned in my earlier post. If you are just starting out, I recommend sticking with safer hobby paints. You can always start using the hotter paints once you gain some experience with hobby paints. Some modelers (including me) do use airbrushes, and we sometimes decant hobby paint spray cans to shoot them through an airbrush. It is a bit of a pain, but I know the paint will be safe on plastic. I seldom use primers, shooting the color coat directly on plastic.
  4. I think this whole Mars thing is fake. It is all playing out in some movie studio in California. Just like moon landings. Oh, the Earth is flat too.
  5. I believe you can ban them from ever bidding on your listings.
  6. Really? Even in the Off-Topic lounge section? What's the problem? The description of this section of the forum states "General discussions on anything EXCEPT politics or religion! Keep it clean... all forum rules apply!".
  7. Can you provide more info (like seller's name or link to their store)? This type of info is nto forbidden on the forum, and would be helpful to others looking for this type of stuff.
  8. As I mentioned, the tire tread is a secondary issue. My big gripe is the rear wheels looking the same as the front ones (no deep offset). That bugs me.
  9. Yes, it is more expensive than the hardware-store paints, but well worth it. It is quality stuff. Model building is your hobby - splurge on good paint. It's not like you need gallons of the stuff to paint a small model.
  10. It depends on the specific item you are scanning, but in many cases the time required to clean up the scan to make it print-ready would be more than what it would take to draw the part from scratch (using 2D photos or drawings for reference). Again, it is all about what fidelity is acceptable to you.
  11. Yes, Revell wheel/tire combos are better, but the big problem is that both front and rear rims have the same offset. The real car (and AMT rims) have the proper deeper dish rim in the rear). That really bothers me. I wish someone would make really accurate Wiper wheels. I also like the deeper tread pattern on the AMT wheels. Decisions, decisions . . . Someone mentioned that the reason the AMT wheels are too small was because they used a short cut - used tires from another kit. What other AMT kit uses those specific size tires? T thought these were unique to the Viper, and AMT simply goofed on the size.
  12. Give it a try and report your results. I suspect you will be surprised how inaccurate the scans are. Scanners are fairly good for organic shapes, but most mechanical shapes with flat surfaces and sharp edges will not scan well. A lot of manual cleanup will still have to take place. I suppose this is also dependent on what quality and fidelity you are looking for in the scanned part. Is "close enough" (rough shape) good enough, or are you looking for a fairly exact reproduction.
  13. Does that imply that when you are looking at it in-person, the color is closer to the photo showing light green model?
  14. Cute little car! Funny how the front end has some similarity to the Toyota 2000GT, but I guess they are both Toyotas, so it makes sense.
  15. There is a seller on eBay ( https://www.ebay.com/sch/agdmodels5115/m.html )who sells lots of Mercedes scripts, but he is in Russia, and probably because of the current political situation has nothing listed. In the past I've bought bunch of various scripts and hood ornaments from him.
  16. Not quite that simple. You still need to be very good with CAD in order to clean up and modify the scan (including hollowing out the body). Some details and features of 1:1 car also don't scale well. There is quite a bit of skilled-human-performed CAD work involved to make usable 1:24 version of a scanned 1:1 car body. And this does not even cover many other parts needed for a model kit. Things like interior, wheels, drive train would all have to be dealt with. Here is a bit of a trivia. Early 3D printers were nicknamed "Santa Claus Machines", since they created things someone wanted.
  17. Yes, it is much easier to mask the interior than exterior. And even if there is some over-spray, you can easily touch up those flat or satin paints with a brush.
  18. LOL! Fixed it. But if you ever wondered if split point drill ever wanders . . . it doesn't. No need to wonder any longer.
  19. That's why we often drill by hand. Can't get any slower than that.
  20. Well, if you do get one of the "bad batch" sheets for a hobby store, cant you contact BMF to get a free replacement? I can imagine BMF will be really hurting if lots of modelers start doing this. I hope this doesn't kill BMF company for good this time.
  21. Yes, in spray cans, the TS (Tamiya Spray) are the ones with glossy car paints. Those are plastic compatible. The AS (Aircraft Spray) are also plastic compatible, but are flat finish, and the colors selection is what you would finish on military aircraft (camo). Many colors are good for car interior colors. Basically, it is the same chemistry as TS line, but different color range. I guess they created separate line for more merchandising. The PS (Polycarbonate Spray) line is the one which might be too "hot" for painting polystyrene kits. Those are designed to paint the clear polycarbonate body shells of RC cars (from the inside). The other Tamiya paints (in jars) should all be safe on polystyrene. Here is the website: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/paints/ you can select the specific paint lines in the left column
  22. Ah, I see what you mean about 1:24 being small to you now. I now do remember that crooked lens and you being the builder. That is a beautiful model!
  23. I did contact Airfix/Hornby (through he website), but I wasn't as successful as you were. Here is the response I received from them: Dear sir I would like to apologise for the delay in responding. We have been trying to get stock but unfortunately without success; I am sorry that we are currently unable to be of assistance as we do not currently have any available stock of the item that you have requested. However, this part may become available so could I please request that you contact us again later in the year and we will endeavour to look again for you. Alternatively see place of purchase. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience caused Kind regards Airfix Spares Team I'll have to try the hot water fix.
  24. I do like the color, but your photos show what looks like 2 distinctly different greens. One is lighter, the other one darker. Probably related to the camera's white balance and the lighting used. Which of the photos look closes to what you see in-person?
  25. Yes, "hot" paint or thinner in modeler's colloquial terms doesn't mean actual temperature of the liquid. It means that the solvents in it are strong enough to attack (melt) polystyrene or ABS plastic the kits are made of. This was not a problem back in the day when modelers assembling plastic kits only used hobby paints (Testors, Pactra) which were specifically formulated to be mild (or "cool") enough not to negatively affect the plastic surface. Those were plastic compatible paints. But then modelers wanted to build model cars which had same color as the real cars, so they started using automotive touch-up paints designed for 1:1 metal-body cars. Those paints are usually lacquers which use solvents that are strong enough to attack plastic. Using a primer often creates a barrier for the solvent in hot paints not to attack plastic, but it is not a cut and dry process - you have to experiment to make sure the combination is safe to use. Same with using multiple brands/types of primer/paint/clear. There are some combination that will and some that won't work. Safest bet is to use hobby paints designed for plastic models. Many of the brands were discontinued, but one still going strong is Tamiya. But they also make paints for polycarbonate RC car bodies, so be careful which line of Tamiya paints you choose. Some say that those paints are too expensive. Well, it is all relative. If you don't want to worry about paint compatibility or crazing, then Tamiya is a pretty safe bet.
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