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Posts posted by peteski
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48 minutes ago, espo said:
Drivers running red lights have a better chance of not getting hit since late model cars usually have ABS brakes.
Um, that is a very interesting way of looking at this. So you are saying that the driver who has the green light, due to the ABS brakes, will be able to avoid hitting the right-on-red turning idiot driver? That is one crazy logic! Drivers should obey traffic rules, or be punished severely enough to teach them to obey the rules. This "it is all about me" and "I need to get to my destination 15 seconds faster" mentality needs to be expunged. We need for the was to be enforced better than they are. Otherwise it becomes free for all.
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2 hours ago, espo said:
Unfortunately, this style of driving is more prevalent that you may think. Stop signs seem to be considered only a suggestion.
But it is still breaking the traffic rules. Why not just change all stops to yield signs then? There are reasons stop signs are used instead of yield signs.
2 hours ago, espo said:With the advent of ABS braking systems, it is far safer to make right turns thru red lights than it used to be.
How do you figure? What does ABS have to do with right turn on red? You must be joking.
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Owning the MicroDry Alps printer, printing on laser decal paper I don't have any of those liquid ink problems, but even Alps is not perfect.
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Yes, the ink looks like it beaded up on the surface. I would suspect that this is not ink jet specific paper, or maybe that it is not printed using a correct print mode (whatever is supposed to be used for decal printing). I don't believe there are special ink jet inks just for decal paper. The paper is supposed to have ink absorbing coating so the ink soaks into it instead of beading up.
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Ok, you do have a point. It would probably be ok, but why take a chance.
But then I suspect that some dental suppliers in Scotland sell those machines too. Maybe they sell 240V versions?
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I suggested this one because it is a compact all-in-one unit. Nice and easy to use for small items. Anything but complicated. And yes, they are Chinese made (but what isn't nowadays)? They must be decent quality since (most?) dentists will not put up with crappy equipment. I'm pretty sure that you can find them locally on amazon or eBay. If you buy them from those sites, who cares where they are shipped from? I buy items on those sites and yes, they come from China. No big deal.
I suspect the one you describing will need a source of vacuum and heat. I have no experience with that one.
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If you only need to make small items (like windscreens) then you could get one of the dental machines dentists use to heat-form mouthpieces and tooth aligners. Those are fully self contained machines with the heating element and vacuum motor in a fairly compact unit. Micro-Mark used to sell one of those units (not sure if they still do), and they should also be available on amazon or eBay. Since they are made for dental trade, they should be decent quality and reliable. You will likely have to cut your own plastic sheets to fit the unit's frame.
Look for ones with rectangular (not round) frames. Do an internet search for "dental vacuum forming machine". You may find one for less than $100US
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How about some photos maybe? Personally I prefer viewing posts with photos.
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I like scale models (miniatures) - always had since early childhood. I also enjoy the process of creating something from bunch of parts and paint.
This is sort of like asking a painter or a sculptor why they do what they do. I think it is also about being creative. Granted, with a model kit one is not as creative as a painter or sculptor who start from raw materials, but there is definitely creativity involved in building model kits. it's fun!
I also think there is a tie to someone's personality. Some people couldn't care less about some silly model, when others are actually drawn to building miniature models. I think it is in your genes.
EDIT: I should add that I'm not just into model cars. I also build non-automotive model kits and N scale model trains.
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23 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
Go cheap on other parts of the build.
I would take this to the next level: Don't be cheap on your hobby which you really enjoy (and which makes you forget about the grind and craziness of your daily life), and it is not much fun when your model is ruined by some cheap paints. Last thing you want is for your hobby becoming frustrating. Be thrifty on other things unrelated to the hobby. Get your priorities straight.
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9 hours ago, Jiml0001 said:
A while ago I became obsessed with finding plug wire in scale. In the end I found that the wire gauge (AWG) was not as important as the Outside Diameter (OD) of the wire overall.
Yes, that is very important thing to consider. If you think about it, insulated wire's purpose is to conduct electricity. As such, the thickens (gauge) of the conductor is important to indicate how much electric current the wire can carry. The thickens of its insulation is not mentioned. But thickness of the insulation and the material it is made from is quite important as far as the maximum voltage it can withstand without breaking down. But that is specified in Volts (not in thickness). If you can find complete specifications, then the OD of the insulation will likely be stated, and some (but not all) sellers include that information.
We use that electric wire to represent non-fictional wiring in out models. As such, we really care about the outside diameter of the insulation
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I like turtles!
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Okay, here is the description:
General Lee 1:24 1:25 scale water slide decals on white Backing for Black General Lee . With these white backing decals you get the white outline and the white stars that the clear backing does not provide . Condition is New.
What you see is what you get. Good for Black General Lee's.I matched the color so you don't have to cut out the numbers . I already put the letters General Lee close to the flag so you do not have to hassle with those tiny letters. All you have to do is cut around the flag and the letters and it can be set as one piece. Cut to size.if you have a special request in size message me before purchase. I'll try to help you if I can. Thanks.
That, along with the photo of the decal clearly indicates that they are for the black body model. But if a novice modeler is not familiar with various types of decals offered, they might ask a question that you asked. I can also see why the seller did not want to deal with your question. I guess a bit of courtesy on the seller part along with a simple explanation (that you can't use those decals on a orange car) would have prevented the nasty exchange.
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I would l still like to see the full listing photo(s) and description, to make my final judgment. For all I know, the description might explain the black background. We don't know that, do we? So far I just see a peeing contest between seller and buyer.
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Thanks for the info Tim. I have the 1949 19' Racer, and a 1940 19' Barrelback.
Your boat is gorgeous! I hope that someday I can make mine justice.
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Since I can't see the item description, I don't see how I could comment on this. Your last reply is not cool - If I was a seller I would probably block you from my auctions. Plus, this is not a Model building question. That's my take.
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On 8/21/2022 at 7:51 PM, foghorn62 said:
Tim, this is an amazing project! Awesome!
I have couple of Dumas 1:24 Chris Craft wooden kits, but mine only have the dark color mahogany deck and hull planks. Yours has the lighter colored wood insert on the deck? Was that part of your kit, or did you add it yourself? It makes the model look really good.
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Looks like the responses were based on the subject line of this thread. Hinge and wire bending tools are very different.
I scratched my head some more and finally figured this out (I think).
There are hinges and there are hinges. The tools described so far are for piano-type hinges which are made from flat metal comb shapes, which have to be bent around a wire.
Seems that you are looking to make simple door/hood/trunk hinges out of wire and tubing, like what is described in a sticky thread:
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Yes, the search engine on this forum is not the greatest - that is why there is a sticky thread (actually in this section) on a better way to search it.
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22 minutes ago, BlackSheep214 said:
I rarely bid on fleaBay because of the constant sniping. Hate'em all because I never win. So I'd rather go the Buy it Now with Make an Offer route.
It is not the sniping. It is simply the fact that others are willing to spend more money on the item than you do. They just do it in the last few seconds. If you were to put high enough of a bid on the item (eBay's proxy bidding process hides your maximum amount), then even the snipers would not be able to outbid you.
I snipe and I don't always win (because of what I mentioned above - someone put in higher maximum bid few days earlier, and that amount stayed hidden until I placed my snipe bid). Seems that many eBay users don't understand how the bidding process works.
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Nice (trip down the memory lane).
I also built one of those as a kid. I remember applying stickers (not decals) to it, and the blank message sheets where I used to create the messages by filling the dots with black and colored markers. Fun stuff. I also remember the noisy mechanism.
These probably fetch some money on eBay nowadays.
Best place to buy quality “hobby” paints?
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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