SfanGoch

Four rights get you back to where you started from.

Brush on some methylene chloride (acrylic solvent) or some other quick evaporating adhesive on the surface, using crosshatched (45°) strokes from one side to the other. The result will be a fairly good representation of galvanized steel when oversprayed with steel metalizer.

It's an arbitrary number. There is no set value. All the prices in those collectors guides are essentially Bravo Sierra. Like artwork, coins, stamps or other items, it comes down to what one feels its value is and is willing to pony up.

From Harbor Freight. $17.99: Drill Master Router Speed Control Dial

This is looking great, Steve. I'm glad I'm taking a break from car models over the summer. It gives me the opportunity to glom over projects like yours and pick up some ideas. I doff my Coney Island baseball cap to you.

I used the sharpie on one side only, Jim. I wasn't going to go nuts trying to make sure that the drawings on both sides of the brass were perfectly registered. It wasn't pro-quality results; but, the parts were usable.

short of going through the ordeal of attempting to mask over the decals to paint that pinstripe, that pinstripe decal set is the only logical alternative.

Yeah. I had to fork over 50 bucks to the guy in the scrapyard to take it off my hands.

I had a slant 6 in my 1972 Plymouth Valiant, for which I bought for $325. It ran for 325 dollars' worth of time (five months) before the "indestructible" Slant 6 seized while I was looking for a parking space.

Since Warren won't help his own cause, I found an image of the decals. Get a set of Fine Burgundy Pinstripe decals from Custom Hobby Decals and add the pinstripe yourself. You're not going to find a simpler solution than this. You're welcome.

Chrysler Engine colors

I mentioned that, Tom. Without actually seeing the decals, it's difficult to provide a solution. The site he bought the decals from doesn't even have a product image available. Lame. At this point, it's becoming ponderous trying to figure out what you're describing. If you can't scan them, take a picture with your phone and post it so we at least have a visual reference to work from.

Interesting, Ricky. The blade holder is essentially a spring and is constructed to provide tension to keep the blades separated. You could remove the adjustment screw and gently spread the arms to increase the tension. I have one I bought in 1991 and haven't any blade alignment problems. Yet.

When I made PE parts for armor models years ago, I drew the pattern on a sheet of .005" brass sheet with a Sharpie, adjusting the image with picks and scrapers until I was satisfied. I then immersed the sheet into a plastic container filled with ferric chloride; although, you can also use muriatic acid ("pool" acid, available at hardware stores), and let the ferric chloride eat the uncoated brass, leaving the Sharpie covered areas intact. It takes about 15-20 minutes for the etching process to completely dissolve the surrounding brass. This was pre- PC, internet. It was primitive; but it worked for me. It's similar to the old method for etching PCB's.

You can't 3D print scripts, hinges, straps, etc. To obtain acceptable results, one doesn't need CAD or other involved applications. It can be done with minimal equipment.