SfanGoch

I'll vouch for the quality of Doug's work. This engine is a gem.

I don't believe there are any clear parts in the kit which require cementing together in a horizontal manner; so, any visible joint area will be negligible. Most. if not all, joint areas will be perpendicular to each other. Brush the mating surfaces with the methylene chloride. Clamp or hold the two parts tightly together and carefully apple the solvent along the joint. Capillary action will draw the solvent into the joint. Whatever crazing there is will be limited to the immediate area of the bonded joint. This can be polished out and make it nearly invisible.

Use methylene chloride, which is used as a a solvent cement to bond plexiglass when constructing clear display cases. Weld-On 3 is available in hardware stores and real arts & craft supply stores.

Years ago, my friend, Mikey Yugo, repainted his 1:1 '68 Falcon using a paint roller. The result was really bad. He blamed the company that made the paint roller.

Jim, check your inbox.

I looked it up. Focus Hobby, 75 S. Main Street, maybe?

It's one of the wonders of Noo Yawk, just like checking a pay phone handset before putting it to your ear. Actually, the oldtimers would ask somebody they knew in the immediate area to watch the cart and use the facilities in a nearby business. If their wasn't anyone around, they'd leave the cart unattended for a few minutes. Can't do that now. If a city Health Department team happens to be around making inspections and see that it's unattended, they pull the permit off the cart and issue a ten day suspension because they'll deem it an "imminent health hazard" the moment the carts are abandoned because the food could be contaminated. So, the guys literally hold it until the finish their day.

Are you gonna eat all that popcorn by yourself? This thread reminds me of Episode 26 of Kojak when the Kojak Squad went to the India Street Pier which wasn't really the India Street Pier.

Yup, never soak parts in ELO. Says so in the directions.

Why do you bother, Steve? It's obvious that David is the smartest person in the cyber room. Perhaps he should follow the Ten Percent Rule, you must be 10% smarter than the equipment you operate.

Check out the website. Easy Chrome is very durable. There is a special clear topcoat which is used to seal it when applied to bumpers, rims, helmets, etc. The topcoat isn't necessary for modeling applications.

I only posted info, Carl. I didn't get any of them.

Great stuff, Dave. Similar to Citrikleen, which is used to remove graffiti, including spray paint, from subway cars in NYC.

I've only had that happen using Easy-Off.

I dunno. The stripped styrene is still discolored. I use Testors Easy Lift Off and it will strip hot lacquer paint completely, without any staining or residue. I bought this Lindberg 1953 Ford used. Neon green lacquer was sprayed directly on the hood and body without any primer barrier. I brushed ELO on the parts. After about 20 minutes, the paint started to wrinkle and was easily removed by scrubbing with a tooth brush. It took three applications to remove the paint from all of the nooks and crannies and there wasn't a trace of neon green anywhere afterward. The parts were slightly etched by the hot lacquer; but, they were a nice, bright white.