SfanGoch

Roger that. Kitbashing to achieve desired results is a long-established method in this hobby.

Short of scratchbuilding one yourself, probably not. This might be a stretch; but, check out the AMT '70 WIldcat interior for a comparison.

'66 Wildcat interior pics.

Ask somebody in "Where's Waldo?".

Ebay.

"A mind is like a parachute. It doesn't work if it is not open.” ― Frank Zappa

I posted a link for Top Studio; but, I believe he has me blocked. His loss.

Top Studio makes various hose joints, hex fittings, etc. Excellent quality resin.

Apparently, they're done. The proverbial fork has been stuck in them.

Update as of 9:30 A.M.: Now, you can get some.

Although, making unwarranted assumptions is, the "if" notwithstanding.

Well. it's like this

A couple of things about this. Online shops aren't the best places to get this information. Pandemic-shmandemic. Not everything revolves around or, is/was affected by, this topic. Lastly, did anyone even think of contacting Chris Hales directly to verify this? I did. Here's his reply from earlier this afternoon:

It's still listed as OOS as of five minutes ago.

It's more of opinion than fact. Revell paints are very good. I've been using both the Email (enamel) and Aqua Color acrylics for just about 40 years and never had a problem with either.

Those are auxiliary fuel tanks. The B-52 is a strategic bomber and does not possess aqny capability to refuel other aircraft. That's what a KC-135 Stratotanker was designed for.

Thanks Steve, I knew that. I was confused by Mark's comment. I bought a few '66 kits as donors for the '67-'69 Rivieras I picked up on fleabay some years back.

What mistake on the newer '66 kit would that be?

Chuck the sprue section. Run the rotary tool at 15K RPM, moving a flat file up and down against the sprue, maintaining pressure on it. Check periodically to see if it's beginning to round up, Once it's round, place the file along the top at an angle to shape the tip. When the desired shape is obtained, reduce the speed to 10K RPM and, using 400 grit paper, smooth the part. Finally, polish it as I indicated in a previous post. You can use this part as a master to make a mold and cast identical parts. Alumilite Amazing Mold Putty is great for making small molds. It's ready to use in about twenty minutes. I use Bondo Fiberglass Resin to cast parts with this. Mix a small amount of clear red acrylic paint into it and it makes decent tail lights.

Not Easy Chrome.

It works. I did it a couple years ago.

Yeah, that it is. If one were to splurge on something, this would be it.

Kit glass, head and tail lights are also made from polystyrene. Without getting into a detailed technical explanation, transparent polystyrene is hard and brittle because it is essentially a clear resin. Styrene of various colors, including white, are produced by the addition of colorants/dyes and additives which make it impact resistant, i.e. less brittle.

He last visited on Friday at 3:01 A.M.

Alsa Easy Chrome has multiple uses, from automotive to hobbies. Check it out at this link, Noel. Click on Easy Chrome 6oz. for the price. It's available in aerosol cans; however, that option is better for large things as seen on that page. The problem with using aerosol cans to spray small parts is product waste in the form of overspray. The 6oz. can is much more economical in the long run because you only use what you need, overspray is drastically reduced and you can pour any unused amounts back into the can. Steve might have different results regarding Revell Chrome Spray's durability; but, seeing that the reviewer was able to scratch it off fairly easily, makes it a deal breaker for me.