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About stitchdup

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    Leslie Budge

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  1. all thinners are flamable prety much, as for size it depends what you're building.I'd suggest getting one 24" wide if youbbuild cars, but if you build trucks that might not be big enough. mines 20" x 12" and another 6" deeper and at least 6" wider would suit me better but everyone is different
  2. if it a spray booth you should be fine with what your using. Remember the propelant in spray cans is flamable and they work fine in spray booths. Mines a cheap one from china and it works well enough for me, and has cut down the fumes and dust a lot. I only wish I'd got one a size or 2 bigger.
  3. Its more likely you'll have to contact the seller. The contract was between them and the carrier. Being the recipient theres probably not much you can do at your end. The language barrier might be a problem as google translate isn't too good with japanese but include pics and I'm sure they'll understand the problem. My experience with japanese sellers (businesses and private) has all been good and they help as much as they can
  4. Cool project. A stretched viper front grille would go well in the opening and its already a similar shape.
  5. I think on my next resin, I'll skip the plastic primer and see if it works any better. It will be grey primer anyway so should be easier to see any problems
  6. While this doesn't look too bad, the chop is lopsided, and the glass is glued in so that it was impossible to remove, being covered inside with filler a good 3mm thick with the same on the outside. The paint seemed to be some sort of housepaint and it just peeled off to reveal cracks everywhere. So i turned it into a frog which didn't improve it, lol
  7. Thanks gents, appreciate the advice. I'm not even sure if i can buy the isopropyl alchohol over here with our stupic alchohol laws but I'm sure i can get it through work if not direct
  8. Has anyone had problems with duplicolour on resin. I'm currently in the paint process on a c1 porsche and at first it pooled in a way similar to oil on water, and just didn't want to flow nice, just to pool. I assumed I'd forgotten to scrub it so I gave it a good scrub with cif household cleaner and hot water, rinsed that off and gave it a scrub with dish soap and hot water with a new toothbrush followed by a rinse and scrub with clean hot water and another new toothbrush. This time some sections crazed a little (seems to be fixed now). I've used duplicolour on resin from the partsbox and it went fine so where have i gone wrong this time. I'm using spray cans in a booth with extractor running and I'm sure its something I'm doing wrong so some advice would be appreciated. Its only the body and not the whole part that has the crazing, the rest seems ok. I'll be using tamiya paints over this and its duplicolour clear plastic primer followed by white primer. I am only noticing the problem when the white goes on, but since the other is clear Its hard to see but it looks to be laying ok
  9. have you tried oxford diecast? they sometimes have us import stuff
  10. I would expect 3d printed stuff to warp pretty quick with the heating and cooling during the print process so we'd see it faster (speculation on my part, no experience)
  11. As well as this 2 i got another 2 tamiya beetles for use with the modelcarparts resin bugs, another revell mk1 golf convert for use with the c1 caddy and another split screen pick up. When i opened the toyota I got a pleasant surprise too, yes that is 2 mostly complete kits in the box so I'll call that a win since i didn't expect that. Theres only one chassis but i think i can cut down an extra hasegawa american series to fit as i have a spare one of them and these are going to be slammed and curbside so dont really need detailed, just some matt black
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