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ferrari87

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Everything posted by ferrari87

  1. Dann, much appreciated sir. I have to say it was the careful use of photography. I did what I could to hide the damage from the rear wing collapse and a chaotic assembly on the front suspension. Ultimately, I learned a lot for my upcoming F310B. Thanks for stopping in!
  2. Don, thank you very much! I appreciate the kinds words guys!
  3. John B, I haven't seen the Bright Mice Red, but the sample online doesn't seem to look right. Red is always a tricky color to photograph, especially in sunlight where it can often look orange. I just finished a base coat on the F310B and using Bright Red, it almost looks orange in direct light. John R, thanks for looking in! Hopefully I can continue to do the Scuderia justice in my upcoming builds.
  4. Zoltan, I broke the rear wing while attempting to place it onto the chassis of my Tamiya Ferrari F60. They really are the absolute worst part of assembling an F1 car. Your Tyrrell looks great!
  5. I used Italian Red. I believe I was supposed to use Bright Mica Red, TS-85, although I believe I could not find it, therefore I used Italian Red. So if it looks a little brighter than it should, that is the reason why. I have an F138 on the shelf that I believe I will be using Mica Red on, however I am not sure. I think Italian Red is a suitable stand in for post-2005 Ferrari paint colors. Prior to that, hands down Bright Red is the way to go for the Marlboro era. On this particular model the rear wing is all messed up. I didn't get close up for a reason and you are correct. The F60 has the main plane, a separate upper plane for the DRS, a lower wing and two separate pieces that model the double diffuser. I was unprepared for the chaos that was about to ensue trying to assemble the rear wing. However, for my F310B I am fully prepared and ready to take on the rear wing. I also have an F2000 and F2001 on the shelf and I'm just waiting to click "buy" on Fujimi's F10 and 150 Italia. I also have my fingers crossed that Fujimi or Tamiya, if they are even producing F1 cars anymore, release the SF-15T. Really, hoping it gets released.
  6. I went to hobby lobby and bought a flat base of balsa wood and two 2x2 in pieces, glued them to the base to create an L shape and with the excess length of the shorter piece, I have fashioned a jig. I can place the end wing on flat against the balsa wood, and then using toothpicks placed into holes on the long end of the "L", I can ensure the wing is level. Then when set, I can place the second end wing and then secure the entire wing with the third piece of balsa wood.
  7. Tom, I believe that will be the process I take on the Ferrari F138 I have. It's a Fujimi kit so I have no doubt it will be harder to build than any Tamiya kit I have experience in.
  8. Dave, it came so close to the wall it's not even funny. The rear wing was miserable to assemble. It didn't quite line up correctly. Tony, thank you. I really love using decanted Tamiya spray cans. I did use polish and wax that I haven't used on a model before and I loved the results.
  9. Bruce, thank you so much! I took advantage of the brisk sunny day we have for the photos.
  10. Good afternoon gents, Here's my first model in a year or so, the Tamiya Ferrari F60. It's my first F1 model and I learned a lot about the construction of these guys. Several parts fought me and I had extreme issues on the front suspension. The paint went well, I'm very happy at the paint I messed several things up during the build. The rear wing was an absolute nightmare. It fell apart several times as I attempted to build it. Then in the process of attempting to attach it to the car it again fell apart. It truly was the most frustrating experience. However, I learned a lot about the use of the carbon fiber decals and have prepared a jig using balsa wood for my in progress Ferrari F310B build. It was a fun first F1 build although I don't believe I did the kit justice. Thanks for looking!
  11. yes! another F1 project! Looks great!!
  12. Thanks Tim, glad to have you following along!
  13. Made some small progress over the weekend. The P.E. set arrived so I set about constructing the wing ends. I'm currently wrapping up my Ferrari F60 and I realized how much of a chaotic mess constructing the rear wing is so I made a trip to Hobby Lobby and bought some balsa wood and made a jig. Theoretically, this should make construction of the rear wing a bit easier. I also added the PE lift point in the rear.
  14. beautiful 355 and Testarossa. What paint color did you use on the 355?
  15. I love these builds! I'm definitely following along! Good Luck mate!
  16. Evening Gents! It's been awhile since I've been at the workbench but I've finally started my Ferrari collection. I'm a very big Formula One fan so what better way to start off an F1 collection than with the car that was the bedrock for the juggernaut that grew in Maranello with Brawn, Byrne, and Shumacher. Initially designed by John Barnard and further refined by Rory Byrne into the succeeding F300 and F399, ultimately evolving into the dominant F2000-F2004's. It is, the F310B. I am still waiting on getting the proper photoetch in to represent the car driven in Melbourne. The car OOB is designed for the Japanese GP, lacking Marlboro decals and a particular rear wing end-plate set up. I do have a few goodies, a Studio 27 carbon fiber set fresh from SpotModel in Spain and the aforementioned Marlboro decals. Anyway, while waiting for all the parts to come in, I've begun work on the engine. There's an excellent F310B on modelersite.com and for a nominal fee, an excellent PDF can be downloaded to help understand parts of the car that frankly, I have no idea about. There are also several pictures out there of the car Schumacher used in practice at Spa and later raced by Irvine in Monza. I will be modelling an F310B driven by Irvine in Australia, although he retired on the first lap with a puncture. I have an F2000 and F20001 that will be modeled after Schumacher driven vehicles. I'm also currently working on a Ferrari F60 piloted by Felipe Massa that will be in the Under Glass section next week. So enough talk, here are some pictures... The folks over at SpotModel in Spain are awesome! I added the coolant piping that for some reason, isn't included with the kit. Perhaps Tamiya keeps things like this out to give us something to scratch build but with the quality of their kits, you'd think details like this would be included. Anyway, i used aluminum rods. I still need to add two pipes close to the firewall. I may assemble the model in this method, first placing the engine onto the floor, then placing the firewall/radiator assembly so that the piping goes onto the engine rather than the engine and piping going into the radiators. If that makes sense. These crappy suspension bits molded onto the transmission casing need to go! Then these suspension bits needed to be modified to receive the aluminum rod used to replace the molded bit. With a little Tamiya White Putty laid down (and not yet sanded) I placed the rods to give myself an idea of what we're looking at. that's the progress so far...
  17. Mike, that's an excellent idea. Rich, I will give the toothpicks a try. My two biggest issues are 1. glue either squishing out or running out and 2. accidental contact with a painted surface. I'd like to use a glue that doesn't pose a danger to painted surfaces. I know to glue plastic to plastic, not paint to plastic. I've gone and got some CA applicator tips, the plastic needle looking type as well as some medium CA to avoid glue running out.
  18. I'm encountering a huge issue with my glues. First, the two types I use: Tamiya Extra Thin glue. The type that comes in the small glass bottle with the brush attached to the lid. I use it primarily for construction and NOT around paint. It loves to eat directly through even lacquer paint. I also use thin CA glue. My problem is once I've gone and painted everything and I'm in that final construction phase, I don't have a glue that won't eat paint like its a stoner with the munchies. No matter how hard I try I have issues with CA getting where it shouldn't and eating paint. I'm wondering what sort of glue I can use during that final construction phase with painted parts that wont cause problems with paint but will also provide a strong and lasting bond.
  19. the paint looks fantastic! great job boss!
  20. I cannot put into words how stunning this is...wow.
  21. I'm currently working on my Mitsubishi FTO.I have the basecoat laid down and spent the afternoon and evening wetsanding it with 3600 to 12000 and now I have a nice uniform finish with no orange peel. Now my questions: 1. I still need to mask and paint the headlights, tail lights (the backs or inside) chrome silver and the window and door trim black and then add the decals. So question, should I paint the window/door trim and headlights/tail lights and then use the novus system, then place the decals, and then clearcoat? Then, is that when i'll use my rubbing compound and wax? I tested the polish and wax on an older model, it's Turtle Wax Polish and Meguiars Carnauba Wax and everything turned out pretty well there actually. I'm just a little confused on the best way to go about getting the best results.
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