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About Shambles

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  • Birthday 05/26/1952

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  • Location
    The Villages, FL
  • Full Name
    John Shamblin

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  1. Details, details..... and I've got over a dozen of these to do!!
  2. Nice work, Jason. The Caddy looks very real! Keep us posted on your progress.
  3. Thanks. I probably won't "crush" that GTO, but I'll remove the tires on the ones I do crush.
  4. Nah, I ain't nearly good enough at scratch building. Found the crusher on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Crusher-For-Dioramas-1-24-1-25-scale-model/222545131853?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  5. Impressive collection and a great diorama!
  6. Thanks y'all. I'm self quarantined and almost out of toilet paper😲 Oh well, more time to work on my projects
  7. Nice work. Keep us posted.
  8. New stuff coming every day. Crusher, flat bed, heavy duty tele loader, trees and stone walls:
  9. Does anyone know where to find resin 1:25 hood hinges? I could find them a few years ago, but not having much luck now.
  10. Do you post any of your wrecks or junker photos here? Love to see 'em.
  11. Impressive work, Paul. At my age (68), I'm finding it more difficult to work in 1:24 and 1:25 scale than it was just a few years ago. I'm impressed with what you're doing in 1:64! Your shots are nice too. Good perspective and lighting. After trying a couple of kinds of cameras, I settled on my iPhone X. It has some amazing capabilities. My sister is a retired photography professor and she says her iPhone produces better results than some of her high-dollar professional cameras. I'm a retired graphic designer, so I enjoy using Photoshop and some other apps to add backgrounds to my diorama shots. It can be a little tedious, but I enjoy it.
  12. Impressive work! You're way more patient and tenacious than me.
  13. I started out long ago using a Bic lighter and/or a candle. I have scribed out doors and deck lids for years, but this "Wonder Cutter" from Micro-Mark really speeds things up. It takes some practice, and it's easy to mess up but, since these are wrecks, I can get away with it. I sometimes use a Dremmel butane soldering tool for short bursts, but it can easily overheat the plastic and make it shrink, especially thin items like A- posts and exhaust pipes. I do most of the heating with a Micro-Mark heat gun but still have to be careful to distribute the heat evenly and stay off of the thin parts. I often take the model apart, "wreck" the interior and exterior separately, test fit a few times, then put them back together. After years of trying to make realistic flat tires, I found something that works pretty good; a hot plate and a 7/16 deep socket for 1:25 tires. I remove the tires from the rims so the rims don't flatten too. Then, trim away the excess rubber, and insert the rim. I've found resin "steel" wheels on eBay if I want it to look like the wheel cover came off in the wreck. It also helps to have something solid to "crash" into the model being wrecked. For this one, I'm using the cab from a disassembled DM die cast '53 Chevy pickup (a whole other project that's in the works). Sorry... didn't mean to go on and on. I didn't know if yall would be interested.
  14. Shambles

    Fully Vetted

    I didn't find that exact same one, but something close: https://www.constructionscalemodels.com/en/gehl-dynalift-dl-6h-telescopic-handler-forks-die-cast-promotions-dcp40069
  15. Wrecking another one tonight. An Olds 442, nicely built model I found on eBay. Sorta hate to wreck it but it was dusty and, well... destined for Shambles Salvage Yard. A tedious process to make it look real. This one was T-boned on the passenger side. Door cut out, exterior and interior carefully heated and "crunched". Brake rotor attached, concrete blocks glued to the undercarriage. Weathering is next. The details probably won't be visible in the final diorama... but it's fun doing them.
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