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Everything posted by aurfalien

  1. WOW!!! Looks smooth as butter. Very very nice! Looking forward to my hybrid of sorts Creos PS 290.
  2. I found this link very helpful; http://paulbudzik.com/miniature-spray-guns/miniature-spray-guns-pg-3.html
  3. Thanks Steve. I actually prefer this as less is more in my book.
  4. Thanks for the feedback, it helps quite a bit! I'm going with the Creos 290 as I'm sure that's what Steve meant. I've been eyeing it for a while now and might as well pull the trigger (pun intended). I still have my H&S Infinity which is a great art work type brush that I've used on my models before. But the over spray and narrow pattern even with a .4mm tip doesn't suite me well.
  5. Hello, I've been watching some of Paul Budziks videos where he mentions spray guns being a better choice for scale modeling then air brushes. His reasoning is very logical and compelling. So I was curious if any one agrees and how you adjust your spraying for things like Splash Plaints, True Color etc... which specify air brush needle sizes and PSI.
  6. Thanks Geoff, I did see those but have grown particular about my glues. I've found that both Zap and BSI are head and shoulders above the rest in terms of CA. However I'm wondering if a very small amount of print toner would do since I'm desiring a minor tint.
  7. Hi, I've a wonderful bottle of thin CA (Zap) that I'd love to have some sort of tint for application control. What I've read about tinting/coloring CA is that it either causes them to get thick, stringy, weak etc... Would any one happen to know how to do a slight tint so that I can more easily see it? Any color would do. * And Happy Fathers Day!
  8. Thanks Mike. Darn they sold. Oh well, kicking myself that I dropped mine. I'm looking at a pair of highly rated Gundam nippers. Thanks Chris. I've read that the GH are the gold standard. However a bit pricy for my budget. Thanks Joe. Welp, I don't have those but suspect I will once my honey do list requires them to do whatever my boss needs
  9. I dropped mine and they fell just right or just wrong depending on view point. The tip bend pretty darn badly rendering them useless. Attempts at repair has rendered them worse.
  10. My beloved Dspiae 2.0 sprue cutters broke. Would any one happen to have a U.S. source for them?
  11. Hi, Curious of any one has a good contact info for Paul Fisher. It seems that fisher@fishermodels.com is no longer valid. Thanks in advance.
  12. So it's been over a year since I built anything and longer since posting anything of value to this rather fantastic forum. At any rate long story short, a few years back I had rubberized the body due to an alcohol bath and I don't mean Jack Daniels. At the time I thought to re enforce it with a combo of resin, styrene and super glue. While this did sort of work, the body always look warped. Recently I had soaked it in SuperClean which pretty much stripped it bare of all that junk. However what was left was a straight but rubber body. I had then soaked it in water over night in hopes to leach out any chemicals and then stuck it in the freezer. What was left was a noticeably stiffer (between slot car and styrene) and still straight body. I've decided to only used CA and recently ordered Milliput to work the model. While it's still pretty soft in areas, attaching it to the tub will give it more structure. Also of note is that the more I work it sanding etc... the more stiffer it seems to be getting. At any rate I am getting a lot of pride and sense of accomplishment restoring this wonderful Fisher kit. It will be a roadster.
  13. I just got some however hope to never use it or any other stripper for that matter. Still, seems a very nice addition to my warez.
  14. Wow thank you very much! My friend said that his dad bought it while serving in WW2 and sent it back home wrapped in Life Savors as those were a rare commodity back then. PS I just tried to send you this message but you don't seem to be accepting any at this time; Man I am so grateful for your time spent researching this. Thank you very much!
  15. Well, these are all very good points and so I'm appreciative, thank you. Let me read your post to him as it conveys the point and thought perfectly.
  16. Yep, just ordered a rather nice looking Revell B17F in 1/72 scale. Almost a pity to simply pilfer it for parts but sentimental value trumps all that.
  17. I can't thank you enough as it means a great deal to my friend in restoring his dads old kit.
  18. Give me some time, you may be surprised. At that point we can decide if I'm just an assembler or if I am in fact a builder. The gauntlet has been thrown down, the challenge has been accepted
  19. Hi, A very good older friend of mine wishes to restore his dads wooden airplane model. It's got some missing parts and no decals really. I'm curious if some one could identify what WW2 bomber it is and the scale? Wingspan is ~17" and length is ~11.75". My idea would be to buy the plastic version of it for parts, decals etc... Also, what would you use to strip a wooden model of paint, ELO?
  20. I'll start a build thread soon however so it begins. I've stripped it as much as comfort would allow. I feared prolonged soaking in SuperClean would have destroyed it. Still rubbery but the chassis is giving it some stability. I feel like a surgeon piecing together a shattered hip. Man alcohol ate it up like some one eating a breakfast burrito.
  21. Well, I've only asked how he was doing after the fires and wishing him well. I'm not comfortable asking him for any help as he's got bigger fish to fry etc... with every things that's going/gone on with his life.
  22. Thanks Steve. It's been sitting for about 2 years now. However I am looking forward to problem solving the situation. The car is still soaking as I tried to fix it before using resin and super glue which is coming off. I'm hoping to strip is über clean before attempting a restore.
  23. Hi, Would any one have advise on how to harden a rubberized resin body that was stupidly soaked in an alcohol bath? I'm stripping it in SuperClean which doesn't seem to be causing further damage. Once cleaned of any paint etc... my plan was to freeze it for a few days and then slowly reinforce with strategically placed styrene while filling in any gaps, holes etc with Tamiya white putty. After I feel that the body looks good, I was going to use a polyurethane based acrylic primer. Is this a good plan? Is there anything I am missing, should change or add? The kit is my beloved Fisher 908 and rather then discard, I've decided to restore it out of respect to Paul Fisher, his work and his craftsmanship. I'm still very sad over his loss of home and business during the Cali Paradise fires as I can relate going through the same thing in the Cali Woolsey fires. Thanks in advance.
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