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About bh1701

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  • Birthday September 21

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    Bart Helbling

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  1. Great looking build! I am especially impressed with the wood on the side. How was that done? Thanks, Bart
  2. Even though the AMT kit had its issues, you did an excellent job on this! The color on the exterior looks correct to me. What paint did you use for the outside? I have the new Polar Lights kit to build some day - but probably won't get to it for a while. I hope somebody has produced an interior detail kit for it by then! Bart
  3. I saved about 25-30 of cars I built when I was younger with the hopes of restoring them like I did with this kit. But, I threw out probably about 60 to 70 other kits that had no special memories for me at that time or had too many missing pieces. In retrospect, there were a lot of models I wished I had kept - Mustangs, Camaros, Vettes, Thunderbirds and such. 😟
  4. I have completed a restoration of my AMT 1967 Corvette that I originally built back in 1967. When originally built, it was bright orange with orange/yellow tie-dye fabric crudely glued to the seats. As you can see from the original interior photo, my teenage skills for detailing were seriously lacking! I disassembled the kit, stripped the paint and salvaged as much as I could. The original hood I used was not prototypical for a 67, and the seats could not be rescued once the tie-dye fabric was removed. Thanks to several members of the forum (Muncie and Snake45), I was able to secure new seats, a new hood, and new tires and wheels. I painted the whitewalls on the tires using a white gel pen. The gauges are from Best Model Car Parts. The exterior color is Tamiya TS-54 Light Metallic Blue. This was also my first try at foiling scripts/emblems/gas cap. Not perfect, but I was satisfied with my first attempt. I applied the foil prior to the last color coat. In retrospect, I think with my next attempt, I will apply the foil before the final primer coat(s). After the first few color coats, I may do a preliminary removal of the paint to expose the foil (before too many coats of paint are put over the foil). Then, after the final color coats, I'll remove the paint again. I think one of the issues I had with this kit was that the foil was so much brighter than the body color. I don't think there would be any way that the blue over the edges of the foil would ever have matched the rest of the car. The blue on the rest of the car got deeper with every coat, and the silver under the paint was never going to catch up to match! I need to try to trim the foil a bit closer to the script next time, also. I was worried about trimming too close and not having enough foil laying down on the body portions of the car. Thanks for looking! Bart
  5. Gareth, I found this kit on Ebay. It was around $35 US Dollars, plus some shipping charges and taxes. Bart
  6. I have a few questions about doing dashboard gauges and other dashboard details. I have a number of the gauges that BestModelCarParts makes for a number of kits in my stash of unbuilt kits. Wondering how you would install these gauges - specifically on a 67 Corvette dash that I have just ordered the gauges for. 1) Would you just cut the gauges out and glue them over the existing gauges? If so, - what glue would you use? - how would you cut the circular gauges out? 2) Or, would you use drills and files to remove the gauges and other details from the dash and secure the gauges from behind? (which would eliminate the concern with cutting out a round gauge from the sheet) Would appreciate your thoughts and any other advice you might have for me. Thanks, Bart
  7. Here is a 64 Ford Galaxie 500XL (AMT Blueprinter kit) that I just completed. This was built for and given to my neighbor; this was one of his first cars that he remembers quite fondly. Exterior paint is Tamiya TS-14 Black, I used Vallejo Black wash on the front grill and the on the Galaxie emblem on the rear of the car; I have just started using this product and am very pleased with the results! Bare Metal foil was done for the window trim and the "spear" on the side of the car. The "FORD" script on the hood and rear are hand painted. All chrome detail in the interior was also hand painted. I stole the wheels and hubcaps from a 60 Ford Starliner kit to match his car. (looks like the Starliner will be getting some new wheels when I build it). Thanks for looking, Bart
  8. Here's a sample of my foiling - using the tips and suggestions mentioned here. I think it looks pretty good! I appreciate the advice! I used a much lighter touch with the blade - and only experienced one or two places where I cut down through the paint. These were all around the rear window, especially at or near the rounded corners. A little hard to keep the blade pretty flat when you have to round a corner. I touched up these spots with some black and a very fine paint brush. But, much better results than I was getting before. The vent windows, letters on the hood and truck were hand painted. Thanks, Bart
  9. I will be using Tamiya's TS-54 Light Blue Metallic on an upcoming kit. I usually use Tamiya's white or gray primer on my kits. Is this what I should use, or is there something different I should do with a metallic paint? Thanks, Bart
  10. Thanks for everyone's ideas. I'll be heading out today to get some of the Tamiya Cotton Swabs that were suggested, and I will continue to work on applying as little pressure as needed from the blade! Bart
  11. I have been using Bare Metal foil on my last 2 models. I have noticed an issue and wonder if anyone can help me figure out what I am doing wrong. Both kits were done with Tamiya spray paints ( a couple of coats of gray primer, a mist coat of body color and then 3 wet coats of body color, and 3 wet coats of clear). I did polish the kits before foiling. I am using a new #11 blade with each kit. The foil is applied, pushed down using my fingertip, and the edges are burnished using a toothpick prior to trimming, I have noticed that when I pull the excess foil off that sometimes there will be spots where I can see a fine line next to the trim where the original white body color (or maybe the primer) is showing. My thoughts are that I am burnishing too strongly, using too much pressure when cutting (although I feel like I am just dragging the blade lightly along the edges), or that Tamiya paint is just really thin (I like Tamiya for the range of colors and the smooth finish you can achieve, but have always felt that it can be easily chipped). Suggestions? Also wondering if there is a better clear coat (spray can variety) to use over Tamiya spray paint that creates a thicker and harder clear shell over the body color? Appreciate your help! Bart
  12. Looks great! My first car was a 66 Mustang in Prairie Bronze - so this brings back lots of memories! Bart
  13. An amazing restoration! Great work! Bart
  14. Thanks. And yes, I did get the flux capacitor to work. 😀 If I made any mistakes while building, I just fired it up and went back a few minutes in time to stop myself! 🙂 The flux capacitor, dashboard gauges, and the device that's used to set the destination time were all images I found on/printed from the internet. Cutting the tiny little circular gauges out of the printout was quite a challenge. Bart
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