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About bh1701

  • Birthday September 21

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    Bart Helbling

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  1. I am only putting the decals in water for a couple of seconds and then lay them on a towel for a few moments until they can be slid off the backing paper. I have used my own printed decals on many other models and have never encountered this issue. No waxes or polishes have been used. They are going over Tamiya Gloss White Lacquer spray paint. Oops - my post had them listed in the wrong order. I do use the MicroSet 1st and the the MicroSol after they have dried. Thanks! Bart
  2. I created and printed some custom decals and am having some issues with them. I apply some MicroSol to the gloss finish on the model (it tends to just "bead up" rather than coat the area), apply the decal, and let it dry. After it has dried, I go to apply some MicroSet and the decals lift off the surface as I start to brush the solution on. Wondering what I might be doing wrong? Some details: Decals were printed onto the decal paper using a laser printer The decal paper is either from MicroScale or Bare Metal Foil. I have sheets from both companies and can't tell which ones were used for these decals. I have applied two coats of the Liquid Decal Film to the decals before applying them to the model. I do find that the decals are ready to slide off the paper after only a few seconds of being dipped into water. Wondering if I need to let them stay on the paper longer to get more adhesive on the decals before sliding them off? Thanks, Bart
  3. I have rebuilt several kits that I did as a kid in the 1960's and 1970's and encountered interiors I had brush-painted with Testor's Black enamels. Definitely a thick layer of old paint that also proved difficult to remove. My usual approach with Easy Off had little to no effect on it. If my memory is accurate, I did have pretty good results using Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. I would use a paint brush to apply it, let it sit for a few minutes, then apply some more and move the paint brush around to "scrub" the surface. When the paint had loosened up, I would then apply Lacquer Thinner to a paper towel and would wipe the surface. I'd repeat the process as often as needed until the paint had been removed. As mentioned before, there still may be some staining on the plastic that will never go away, and you may have stubborn paint in crevices (a paint brush with stiffer bristles or a toothpick can help work some of that out). When you're all done and apply some primer everything will look good and all of the details covered up by brush-painted Testor's enamel will be visible again! Thanks, Bart
  4. Very nicely done! Thought the interior came out really well. Bart
  5. This Cougar was molded in orange. I used silver as the initial primer coat, and then followed up with regular primer (either Tamiya White or Gray - I have a feeling it was probably White). The final color covered just fine with no trace of orange anywhere! Thanks, Bart
  6. I built one of these when I was a kid in the 60's. I am certain that mine did not turn out as well as yours did! Looks great! Bart
  7. That's cool that you own a real one! I am jealous! You are right that the stripes under the trunk do not go down far enough. Also the one on the left side under the trunk (not visible in my photos) has a more correct curve at the top corner to my eyes. The one on the right is a bit more angular at the corner. I remember that I had to make each of those corner strips using 3 different components - some of it Photoshop and some in PowerPoint. I am also not convinced that the proportions on the AMT kit in several places were a 100% match to the real thing. And I can also be a critic of my own work - as you will now see: 1) The stripes on the side of the real car appear to be thicker in height towards the front and become slimmer as they work towards the rear. Mine are uniform in height all the way. 2) The stripe on the front fender that drops down was also a pain. The side marker lights on the AMT model didn't look to be as wide as they are on the real car, so I had to alter those stripes to be about the width of the marker light on the model. 3) You'll also notice that the stripe doesn't extend below the marker light on the front fender; that was going to way too small of a decal to work with. When you print your own, you have to cut the decal extremely close to the size of the actual decal shape. Remember that the entire 8 x 10 sheet is just one single, giant decal! Finally, I don't think the proportions of / details on the AMT body are all 100% accurate. That makes it hard to shrink an image of stripes for a real car down for a model that may be off in some places. But, I am very happen with the overall model the way it turned out and most people wouldn't pick up on some the inaccuracies that exist with the decals. Thanks, Bart
  8. They can print in color. That's what I generally do since I will also load the decal sheet with decals for other kits that I may be working on. The only color that they cannot print is white - since the assumption is that you are usually printing something onto a piece of paper that is already white! Here is a sample of the decal sheet file that contained the Mustang Decals, as well as decals to replace some old, yellowed decals on my USS Voyager starship. Use every available space for decals! The Voyager decals were scanned from an original decal sheet from the Monogram model of the Voyager. My neighbor had this kit and never built it. That hardest thing about the Voyager decals was removing all of the blue background that was on the entire decal sheet. That's where a lot of patience is needed, as well as using something like Adobe Photoshop and their "eraser" tools! Thanks, Bart
  9. That looks amazing - especially the stubble on his face and the colors on the wall behind him! Bart
  10. I create the decals using PowerPoint and/or Adobe Photoshop. I found images of the stripes on the website of a company that makes them for the actual 1:1 cars. Photoshop is primarily used to erase any background colors that may be on the original image. White backgrounds are OK to leave since printers do not print white. The final decal images are placed into a PowerPoint slide that I then export as a PDF file. I will adjust the size of the images, as needed, so that everything is the right size. I will usually add a 1" x 1" square box on the slide somewhere. The reason for this is to ensure that the decals print at the correct size. I have found that when I print the slide from PowerPoint that the images are all a bit undersized. The PDF - when the printing option in the PDF viewer is set for "actual size" - prints them at the exact size needed. Checking that the dimensions of the box are really 1" x 1" will confirm that all is good. I will print the PDF at home and will check my measurements, and will adjust the images in PowerPoint if needed. The PDF will be loaded onto a USB drive and taken to the local FedEx Office. When I get to FedEx Office, I always work with an associate instead of printing them myself on one of their printers. The settings for their printer in PDF need to be "Actual Size" and the paper type needs to be set to "Transparency". Also, they need to print on the correct side of the decal paper - show them which side needs to be printed on and they will figure it out! I have them print a sample on plain paper so I can double check the measurements one last time. You will need to supply them with decal paper. Once last thing - I will fill the PowerPoint slide with as many copies of the decals as I possible can. There will be times that something goes wrong with the application/positioning of a decal and you will be glad that you had extras of that decal. Trust me on this! The cost at FedEx is usually in the $1 range. Sometimes they charge for the test print on plain paper, but I have done this enough times at my location that they know me now and only charge for the printing on the decal sheet. Hope that helps - let me know if you have any more questions! Thanks, Bart
  11. Here is my latest completion - an AMT 1/25 scale 1971 Mustang Mach 1. This was put together using 2 kits from the 1970's that I had built as a teenager. I included a photo of the original cars. The bright green one supplied most of the parts, but the silver one did donate some parts that were broken or missing on the green one. I used some aluminum tubing for the exhausts. Chrome trim is hand painted. The color is Tamiya TS35 Park Green. I designed the decals myself and had them printed on a laser printed at the local Fed Ex Office store. Thanks for looking! Bart
  12. Are you asking about the Tamiya Black Panel Line Accent? I use that sometimes to accent the door and trunk panels, but have never tried it as a wash. Hopefully someone else has some experience with it. Thanks, Bart
  13. I use Vallejo Black Model Wash and just brush it on. It settles in the crevices very well. Sometimes may need to apply a second coat for a couple of spots where the coverage was not that good. I tried making my own washes and never had much success. I now use the Vallejo exclusively. I have used it on bumpers, wheels, and other places. Here is an example of a grill that I used the black wash on. Thanks, Bart
  14. Some 1/160th scale vehicles I built for my N Gauge train layout. The PT Cruiser is a resin kit. All of the others are 3-D Printed Plastic kits. All were hand painted. Thanks for looking! Bart
  15. Thanks for the ideas! The stuff from "3 Inches Under" looks good. I found some custom side mirrors in my stash that should work as a substitute for the spotlight. I will look at pen tops (and odd little things I might find at Home Depot) to see if I craft a siren that looks good enough before investing much $$. Bart
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