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bh1701

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About bh1701

  • Rank
    MCM Member
  • Birthday September 21

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    bartman75022@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Texas
  • Full Name
    Bart Helbling

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  1. bh1701

    Ferrari F50

    Thanks! I saw the red one you completed in another post and it looks good, too!
  2. bh1701

    Ferrari F50

    Thanks! The kit was molded in yellow and I intended to leave it that way; but when I painted the black on the underside of the engine compartment lid, it visibly showed through the plastic and darkened the appearance of the yellow on the outside. So, I decided I needed to prime it and throw some paint (some shade of yellow from Tamiya) on it to prevent this. Painting it Ferrari red briefly crossed my mind, but I thought that the yellow was more eye-catching. I am glad I stayed with yellow!
  3. The completed model is about 6-1/2" in length. I'd say it is close to 1/24th or 1/25th scale. It sits in a display case with other 1/25th scale models and it looks like it fits right in. Bart
  4. I got inspired by some recent posts from others who built the Revell Lightning McQueen snap kit. It looked like a fun kit to build and add to my display case. A quick build for me, but it turned out well. Thanks, Bart
  5. bh1701

    Ferrari F50

    Some photos of a Ferrari F50 I just completed. This is an old Tamiya kit I finally got around to building. Thanks for looking! Bart
  6. This is a clever topic! I started building model cars almost 60 years ago. Back then, my cars were brush painted ( or Q-Tip painted!). They looked good to me as a kid. I saved a number of my early builds and plan to strip the paint and restore them all someday. This is a 61 Buick Invicta pre-built model that I painted. This is a 64 T-Bird - brush painted. If you have a good imagination, you might even be able to read the poorly painted Thunderbird script on the side. This is a 1960 Lincoln Mark V - originally built in 1960. This is one that I stripped the paint from a few years and rebuilt it to look like this. These are some of my more recent builds- a 59 Caddy Eldorado, a Ford GT, a 2010 Mustang and a 58 Edsel. I think my skills have improved a bit! Thanks for looking! Bart
  7. bh1701

    Dodge Viper

    I agree - the smoked finish for the headlight covers was a bit of a disappointment. I had tried to make a mold of the covers to try to make my own clear covers, but never was able to come up with anything remotely satisfactory.
  8. bh1701

    Dodge Viper

    I bought this Dodge Viper kit back in the 90's and it just sat in the closet in an unopened box until recently. I finally decided to tackle this kit and here is the result. I think the kit was one of AMT's better kits; a lot of detail and the parts fit together very well. Thanks for looking! Bart
  9. bh1701

    Cougar II

    Thanks for all the kind comments on my work! To answer one of the questions, I used Tamiya TS-39 Mica Red as the color for the body. The actual color on the model may be a bit darker than how it came out in the photos. ...and for all of you who mentioned you have one of these kits and haven't built it yet, take your time and be patient. It is quite a bugger to build! Bart
  10. Here is my completed Polar Lights USS Enterprise 1701-E. This is the kit that is about 7" in length. The hardest thing about this kit is applying the million or so decals (OK, I am exaggerating a little here!). Everything that is not light gray on the ship is probably a decal. The decals are so thin and often cover large expanses of the model that I found they were prone to breaking apart as you worked with them. I ended up needed to get a second set of decals from Polar Lights. Thanks, Bart
  11. bh1701

    Cougar II

    Some photos of my recent Cougar II model. I remember building it as a kid and wanted to try it again. I pretty much disabled all of the features it had (windows that went up and down, retractable lights, opening doors and truck, steerable wheels, etc.) since I remember that they seemed to be pretty finicky and never worked all that well and I felt they detracted from the model. All in all, I am really satisfied with how this kit turned out! Thanks, Bart
  12. I painted it using Tamiya TS-50 - Mica Blue. Used Testor's Wet Look Clear Gloss, also. Then a lot of polishing after that.
  13. My latest kit... The Revell 1/25 Snap-Tite Ford GT. The stripes were spray painted after a lot of masking was applied. I've been practicing with my last few kits prepping the body better and at polishing them up. I think I'm getting good at putting a shine on my models. Thanks for looking! Bart
  14. I've got a model kit I built over 20 years ago. It's not a model car, it's the USS Voyager starship...but this question should apply to any model. The background of the decals are now turning yellow-gold. Is there any way that this can be fixed? Since it was 20 years ago, I can't tell you exactly how I applied them, but this would be my best guess. Since the model was painted with a flat finish and still appears to have the same finish, I am betting I applied the decals directly to the flat finish. If I recall, isn't it best to apply decals to a smooth gloss surface, and then spray a flat clear over them if that's the final finish that's needed? While this knowledge won't help me with my current situation, it would be nice to know for future kits. So, is there any magic solution to my yellowing decals? Thanks, Bart
  15. Thanks for your comments! The color that I used is Testor's One Coat Lacquer #1846 Pure Gold. Bart
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