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bh1701

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Everything posted by bh1701

  1. Here is my latest completion - an AMT 1/25th scale Lincoln Continental convertible. All of the chrome trim is painted. Once I thought I had finally started to get the hang of Bare Metal foiling, I ran out of the "good" Bare Metal foil and only had their lesser quality product to work with. Disappointed with it, so I ended up painting all of the silver trim. Once I learn how to use my airbrush, I will probably start masking the whole car and spraying on one of the good, shiny chrome finishes that are available. Thanks for looking! Bart
  2. Your models are always amazing. Well deserved recognition! Bart
  3. This looks great! What color primer did you use under the Metallic Brown? I have a Chrysler Turbine car to build some day and had been thinking of using the Metallic Brown. Based on your pictures, it sure seems like it would work for the Turbine Car, too! Thanks, Bart
  4. This is from Ikea. I think it was around $200. Has the option to add LED lights to the top of the case. This is what it originally looked like; I later had a couple of extra glass shelves made to display more models. Bart
  5. Thanks everyone! I went to Hobby Lobby to get some Clear Satin Acrylic spray today. I'll do some tests on scrap plastic parts before spraying the actual model interior. Starting with a few light coats as suggested before applying a heavier coat. I do not need to worry about primer with this one; the acrylic paint was painted directly onto the plastic. Bart
  6. I painted the interior of a model using some of the inexpensive Hobby Lobby acrylic craft paints (Apple Barrel, Ceramcoat, etc.) I'd like to spray some semi-gloss or flat clear over the paint to help protect it. I do not have an airbrush, so I was wondering if there were any brands of aerosol spray paints that would work on the acrylic? Thanks, Bart
  7. Thanks - I had a feeling that the Tamiya paint might be having some effect on the putty and other things I had used. The Bondo I used was the glazing one-part stuff. What would you use to make a "block sander"? I think someone had mentioned a Pink Pearl eraser (the rectangular kind) to secure some sandpaper to. Are there other suggestions for making a block sander? There are so many different styles of CA/superglue. What type of superglue would you use? Thanks, Bart
  8. Tom, I applied the putty over the sink hole and extended it out at least 1/2" on all sides of the hole. When I sanded, I did not use anything like a block to "flat sand" the area. I used a piece of sandpaper that was wider than the puttied area. I did not bend or fold the sandpaper. I wet sanded and used a fairly gentle touch as I sanded the area. Thanks, Bart
  9. I have been trying for over a week to remove 2 "sink holes" on the trunk of a 65 Continental model. These were sink holes that were over the posts that the chassis pins fit into. I primed the model the other day and I thought I had finally gotten rid of these sink holes. I could not see any evidence of them under magnification. But, after applying the first color coats to the model, one of the sink holes is detectible again. The photo I included shows it within in the red circle; it doesn't look that bad in the photo, but in real life it is very noticeable(at least to me). I used many different techniques. I started by drilling a hole in the trunk over each sink hole and applied Tamiya white putty into the hole. After this first application dried, I applied one or two more coats of putty to ensure that the hole was filled with enough putty to be higher than the surrounding trunk area. After sanding, the sink hole depressions were still very apparent. After that, other methods were to use Bondo , later some Bondic, and even some more putty. After sanding down each time (using sandpaper grits ranging from 600 to 2000 grit), I could still see sink holes. Finally, I drilled holes again and inserted plastic rod into the holes. I left the rod protruding a bit higher than the surrounding trunk area. I did not have a drill bit that was exactly the same size as the rod, so I used a smaller bit and slowly enlarged the hole so the rod would fit. I used Plastruct Plastic Weld cement (liberally applied to the rod and to the trunk area around it). My assumption was that the rod and trunk surface would "melt" together to form a seamless patch that could be sanded down. I did end up with small pinhole gaps in several spots at the places where the rod and trunk met, so I used Super Glue to fill these gaps. After sanding, most of the gaps were gone. I used more Super Glue and sanded, but still could see small pinholes in one or two spots. More super glue, sanding, and eventually some more putty. All looked good now. after the primer was done..at least until the color coats went on and one sink hole became apparent again. As an FYI - I use Tamiya TS paints (primer, color coats) - in case that has any impact. I think I have finally admitted defeat and will just live with the one sink hole on this kit. But, for the future, what am I doing wrong or what is a better method to use? Thanks, Bart The sink hole is in the circled area. Kind of hard to see in the photo; but, in real life to the naked eye, it is quite noticeable.
  10. Looks great! A very clean build. The ELDORADO on the sides are especially well done! Bart
  11. I have this window insert from a Mini Cooper model kit. I am going to modify this kit (which is the hardtop version) into a convertible. I will need to remove everything except for the front windshield and the portion with the sun visors. As I seem to remember, cutting clear plastic can be a little tricky. If I am not mistaken, clear plastic seems to be a little more brittle and can be prone to cracking when you try to cut it. Any suggestions on the best way to do this would be appreciated! Thanks, Bart
  12. Those are all very sharp! Great work! Bart
  13. bh1701

    Dodge Viper

    Thanks! It's been a while since I built this kit, but I do remember the hood/front bumper/body, and also the rear bumper/body, did not fit together that well. I seem to remember doing some careful sanding on some of these parts to make them go together a bit better, and also using Tamiya masking tape to hold the bumpers in position to the body/frame while the glue dried. I looked at the model the other day and noticed that there is a bit of a gap between the rear bumper sides and the body. I can see that it exists in the photos, too. It's probably the best fit I could manage to get. The detailing that AMT did in this kit was excellent. Except for the bumpers, the kit did fit together very well. I always get a little disappointed when you've spent all that time building and detailing the sub-assemblies, and then you find some issues when all of the sub-assemblies come together in the final steps. Bart
  14. Great model! I enjoyed the video and got some good ideas to use. Bart
  15. bh1701

    Batmobile(s)

    I finished this kit of the Batmobile from the 1989 Batman movie with Michael Keaton. Also included are some photos of the 1966 Batmobile from the TV series with Adam West, as well as the 1955 Lincoln Futura concept car that George Barris used for the base of the Batmobile. Thanks for looking! Bart
  16. Excellent work with this kit - and all of the decals! I have also built this kit and it is a good model. Not a lot of painting needed, but a ton of decals. With patience and a lot of decal setting solution, it turns out looking great! I have also built the USS Discovery - it is also a nice kit with a LOT of decals! Bart
  17. Thanks, guys! I've already got the Revell kit on its way, so I'll continue down that avenue. If either of these had come up when I was doing my searches, they both would have been good candidates for me to consider using. Making the convertible top for my model shouldn't be that bad. It's always good to have a challenge and to get the satisfaction of achievement when you finally overcome that challenge! Bart
  18. Thanks, Mike. That sounds like a good approach. For the metal frame pieces, I am guessing that some pieces of strip styrene could be used to make those? I will be seeing the actual car in a week or two and will be able to study what the folded-down top actually looks like in person. That may help me figure out the best approach for me. Bart
  19. I will be making a model of a friend's Mini Cooper convertible. I am starting with the Revell 1/24 Mini Cooper kit. I'll need to make the convertible top (in its folded down form). Any ideas on how I might be able to approach this? Thanks, Bart
  20. I agree with the others - this is one of your best builds yet. Congrats! Bart
  21. John (... and others !), Thanks for the kind comments! There are a number of posts in this site that describe methods used by folks for "painting over foil" for the badges and script. I searched the site using search terms like "foiling script" (matching all words in the phrase) and found lots of ideas. I suggest you take a look for those. On the first model I foiled, I applied the foil before my final color coat went on. The car was painted using Tamiya's medium metallic blue. I found that the edges of the silver foil on the body still showed through the blue paint a bit, so the area around the borders of the badges and script all had this "halo" of a lighter blue than the rest of the body. I also used Tamiya modeling swabs and toothpicks to remove the paint; both had some lacquer thinner on them to help remove the paint. I was happy with the results, but thought I could do better. The Cougar is the second one that I foiled the scripts on. My technique changed a bit this time. I put the foil on before I put the last coat of primer on. The last coat of primer covered the foil completely with no foil showing through the primer. I then put my initial coats of green on, and removed the paint from the foil at this point. Once I had my final color coats on, I removed the paint from the foil again. Why did I do it twice? Because I was worried that if I waited until the end, there might be too many layers of paint and primer to be easily removed. I first used a craft stick (like a popsicle stick, only wider) to remove the paint. I did not put any thinner on it and carefully ran the edge (near the rounded bottom end of the stick) back and forth over the script. Tamiya paint seems to be pretty thin, so this worked to get the majority of the paint off. I then used toothpicks and swabs to clean up any rough spots. Finally, I used just a smidgen of thinner on these tools to further clean things up. Different brands of paint might be thicker and may require some thinner earlier on in the process. The best advice I can give is to read different posts about how people do it and find one that works for you. A lot of patience and a magnifying lamp are also essential! Thanks, and good luck! Bart
  22. Some photos of my latest completion. An AMT 1969 Mercury Cougar. The color is Tamiya TS-20 Metallic Green. I think that this color is quite appropriate for a post being created on St. Patrick's Day! The kit is the Cougar Eliminator, but I filled the spoiler holes on the trunk, removed the hood pins, and omitted the front air dam to make this a standard Cougar. I added a console to the interior (from a 1970 Mustang). I did not have dark green embossing powder for the carpets, so I used some modeling railroading grass instead. Overall, a pretty nice kit. There were some issues getting the hood to lay flat, and to get both the front and rear bumpers to fit. Some careful sanding and filing helped to eliminate (or minimize) these issues. This is the 2nd kit that I have done the scripts using the "paint over bare metal foil" process. I am quite happy with the results. It's takes a delicate touch and lots of patience to get the paint off cleanly, but it does look good! Thanks for looking, Bart
  23. Great looking build! I am especially impressed with the wood on the side. How was that done? Thanks, Bart
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