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    • Dave Ambrose

      General Usage   05/10/2017

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About restoman

  • Rank
    MCM Avid Poster

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  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sarnia Ontario
  • Full Name
    Mike Miller

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2,196 profile views
  1. 1962 AMT Thunderbird mild custom

    Very nice job. Killer paint!
  2. 1990 Daytona 500 winner

    That was the blown tire year... It was Cope's only win, wasn't it?
  3. Perfect modelling day.

    We've been hovering around those temps for over two weeks now. Being to the south of Lake Huron, we just don't get this cold very often at all. Certainly not for as long as this... Glad my bench is next to the floor register.
  4. 1957 Dodge D500 Custom Royal

    More pictures please!
  5. If the compressor is that worn out, it's going to contaminate the paint coming out of the gun too...
  6. I paint in my garage, which still has a dirt floor and many, many gaps for wind to blow through. It's an old, dusty place, with lots of dust and cobwebs in the rafters. Not exactly a proper spray booth... Here's what works for me: I keep the big door closed. Always. The man door is kept open, as that is my exhaust area. I don't use an exhaust fan - moving air out means it has to come in from somewhere. Air movement means dust movement... My compressor has a 20 gallon tank, so I fill the tank and then shut the compressor down so it doesn't blow air out the exhaust. I wet the floor in the area where I'm standing/sitting. Sometimes I'll water outside the door if it's breezy out. I lightly blow the dust off of everything ( table, parts, body, etc.) at least 20 minutes before I'm ready to spray. That gives lots of time for any dust to settle. No more than 20 psi. From that point on, I wear nitrile gloves. No loose clothing, no shirt sleeves. No paint gets into the paint gun unless it goes through a proper paint strainer. I use a new strainer every time I have to add paint. I use a HVLP mini spray gun for almost all my spray jobs. I find it much faster, easier to control, and easier to hold than a n air brush. That\s just my preference. I wipe everything down lightly with an alcohol swab immediately before I'm ready to spray. Then, I use a tack cloth over everything to be painted. Just a light pass. I keep the cloth in a zip-lock bag when not in use. I can easily get a summer of paint work out of a single tack cloth. Here's the most important part: I don't roam all over the place when the paint is wet. In fact, I arrange it all so I can stand still and spray. Movement creates air movement... and most of the dust in any paint job comes from the painter. Dust in inevitable, in some form or another, so anything that can be done to minimize it shows in the final product. Hope this helps...
  7. ' 57 Ford street wagon

    Some very nice work here! Your foil work is frigging awesome!
  8. '69 340 Dart

    Yeah... the un-silenced breather from the 383 would work. ...But this is a Day Two kind of car, so... Thanks for the comment, though.
  9. 40 ford wagon

    I'm liking that!
  10. '69 340 Dart

    I'm using a Revell GTS big block Dart and converting it to a small block four speed. A Day Two kind of car... I built this years ago as a white with black interior 383 car. The resto bug hit and into the Super Clean it went. I'm using a resin copy of the '71 Duster engine and trans, with a Fireball Holley and a dual snorkel air breather. The interior was altered with the addition of a four speed, non-console hump, nicely covered with black embossing powder. Stole the Cragars from a Nova kit and the BFGs are Fireball resin. The Light Bronze is nail polish, cleared with automotive clear. The vinyl top is dry sprayed flat white. Comments always welcome.
  11. VW Hebmuller tribute

    Thanks for all the compliments! This was fun to do. I've been a 1;1 Beetle owner since '94 and have repaired/restored literally dozens of the air-cooled wonders. It's always been in the back of my mind to build one of these - full scale - but this is likely as close as I'll get to that plan. Thanks again!
  12. Hebmuller replica

    It's not too inaccurate for a plastic kit, just a lot of flash, poorly scribed lines and some mismatched panels from the mold. Nothing that can't be remedied with a bit of work. Thanks for the compliment!
  13. 1972 Buick Riviera - Boat-tail

    Very nice job! I like everything about it. One of GM's better designs, I wish I had bought that kit from Modelhaus.
  14. Hebmuller replica

    The final product can be found in the Under Glass section.
  15. Double "A" Dale

    Wow! Stellar job! That could pass for the real thing until one starts to look really close. I think it's one of the absolute best flopper builds I've ever seen.