drummerdad

I looked at a few videos on YouTube and they were helpful. I will try to control it with heat sinks for now. Ill also try and use an iron instead of the torch when I start going up, or close to another joint. I bought a bunch of brass, but not enough to start the big 1/8 camaro. Im going to play around and see what I come up with. I still need to get some supplies. And I might get a 1/12 model to start on, and see if switching between works, or if sticking to one or the other is better. I do know one thing, the brass joint is exponentially stronger when done right. I just slapped two small 1/32 rods on a plate and braised them together. No filing, no cleaning, using rosin core solder, and holy cow. It is so strong. So I coped a tube, and set it up, and tried again, and wow. I really want to try to get this down. Im getting better with the plastic, but I still have a ways to go.

I have a 9pc pearl world series. Its a little old and beat up. I have zildjian hi-hats, and a grab bag of cymbals, with Axis double pedals. It works ok. I mostly play progressive metal and rock. Dream Theater, Symphony X, Circus Maximus (the new one, not the band from the 70s).

I have, on Hulu. I love it. I also watched a bunch of them on youtube, but they were not in the US. I cant remember where they were. Its very cool. Lots of very good builders on that show. I love the technic lego stuff. I have lots of those kits.

I think the cost is not too bad, if you watch where you buy. But its easy to drive the cost up. I have found if I scratch build, or go to larger scales, its exponentially more expensive. 1/24 is cheap, unless you add a bunch of detail parts. 1/8 is just expensive. I like the 1/16 for now. Plenty of kits, not much more than the 1/24 and I can get detail parts. If I had to guess, I think I can finish the 1/16 firebird and be in about $200-250 total. It has 3d printed wheels, tires, engine, transmission, shifter and fuel cell. I added some brass 4-link brackets and a few other odds and ends. Not too bad, and it could be done a lot cheaper. Itll take another few months to finish.......if I finish it. On the other hand, I also collect Lego, and it is getting expensive. I buy 3 or 4 kits a year, usually used, and spend probably $500 to get them. And they are built in a few hours, and Im done. I have thousands of extra parts to play with, though. And if I dont like it, I can tear it apart easily. My other hobbies are playing drums and classic trucks. Drums are expensive, but if you buy sticks or cymbals, itll set you back a few bucks, but they last a couple of years. The trucks? Holy cow. Building cars/trucks is outrageous. I need coil overs to get one on the road (long story), but thats going to be $1200. A radiator is $400. The trucks are almost always on hold for budget constraints. Its easier to get a $50 3d printed part here and there, than that $750 carburetor you need. Its easy to spend $35k on a custom car. Im at about $10k on the D-100, and need another $5k to make it road worthy. The F100 is about $2k, but itll be on the road this summer, as a nearly complete, stock 67 F100.

Thats a great build. I never thought about making a jig with legos. I have a bunch of them, but I would be afraid I would glue to it. That guy also uses a bunch of brass inside the styrene, and to reinforce his joints. That might work. I also thought about using brass for just the base, and then switching to styrene for the upper portion. Most of the bars on the lower portion are straight and flat. I know there are some exceptions, but generally that is the case. I could use brass rod at the joints, and use brass tubing only as the base. And thanks for the kind words on the Firebird. I have been working on building my own chassis for a few years and this is the best I have done. Im really happy with it.

Here are a few pictures of a new project Im working on. I havent started a build thread because I have a tendency to get bored or frustrated and shelve the project. This is the farthest Ive ever been on a tube chassis and Im still very happy with it. But I have a few questions for you experts. Obviously this is styrene. I know my gaps are a bit big, but my solution will be to use some fingernail filling powder my wife used for awhile. Ive already tried it, and it work well. So Ill address the gaps later. Ive read that the styrene is good for support on some larger scales. Im really liking the 1/16 scale. There seems to be more kits available. And now with 3d scale parts making wheels (which I am using in this build) the options are slowly opening up. Im trying to work up to my 1/8 scale Iroc Camaro, and while it will never be as epic as the ones Ive witnessed here, I would like it to be nice. But Im not sure about styrene at the 1/12 or 1/8 scale holding the weight. So I bought some brass tubing and a butane torch, and Im experimenting with that. The question is, how do you braise the new tube in, without the other ones falling out under the heat? Ive only started a few small tube junctions and they are falling apart when I go to add another bar close by. Im having good success holding everything with magnets, and I have seen you guys build using wood, which makes sense, but how are the other tubes not falling out on you? In case anyone is interested, the model is the 1/16 scale firebird from MPC, the wheels are from 3d scale parts, and the engine and trans are from 3d model specialties. Its the 1000 cid mountain motor from Sonny Leonard, the trans is an automatic 3 speed lenco, and the centrifugal is all scratch built to mimic the F3x. If you see any glaring issues, Im okay with criticism. I know some of the tubing sizes are off.

Ill agree cars today are more comfortable, and refined. They also give people a false sense of being a good driver. NO. You are NOT a good driver. The car kept you in the lane, prevented you from rearending the car in front of you, stopped you from locking the brakes up, and spinning out going too fast around the corner, and it PARKED ITSELF. You are not a good driver. The car is a good driver. Also none of these cars will last even 25 years. You will never see a 2020 anything running around in 2045 or 2070. Not going to happen. I have a working 67 ford f100, and a project 67 dodge d100. They just keep on going.

I have the 1/16 scale firebird from MPC, and just discovered the body is warped. I also have a 1/16 lamborghini countach that is so warped I dont think Ill ever get the door to close. Its an older kit, so I half expected it, but the firebird is new.

Thats probably accurate. There are safer and easier way to snap a picture of the curvature (or lack thereof) of the earth. I watched a show on netflix, called beyond the curve, or behind the curve, and it was about the flat earth society and a few of its members. The best part was when they got their super expensive laser to measure the flatness of the earth, and the math showed it to be curved they were all like "well, this laser was made by people who believe the earth is round, so they may have built it in a way to re-enforce their theory." Those people have serious credulity problems.

That shape is officially called a Torus. Crazier things are still being taught in school, in high school AP biology as a matter of fact.

I cant tell you how many times a week I get blinded by someone in one of these new cars, with the automatic dimmer...you know, the one with the sensor in the rearview mirror, which is almost the same height of my eyes. My wifes Acura has automatic wipers. It scares the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of everyone when it randomly decides to come on, for no reason. I mentioned I work in aviation. We work on a lot of helicopters where they have all the new computerized gizmos. You can link your phone and ipad to your Garmin GPS, and play music, and read texts or emails, build a flight plan in the comfort of your mansion or yacht, then just get in your helicopter, and it links and tells the GPS and autopilot where you are going. Then after you get going, itll flight right to the coordinates and wait for you to tell it what to do. Its all real nice, except when it doesnt work. EVERYTHING requires a monthly update, with an annual fee, and if you update this one unit, but forget one of the others, or you dont read the fine print and the next update is for another airframe, not the one you have, you just screwed everything up. Then you have to figure it out, or bring it to an Avionics shop, which can sometimes cost over $250 an hour to figure it out for you. You can keep all that garbage. I will admit I like my seat warmers, and the GPS on my phone, maybe bluetoothing Pandora to the radio. Fuel injection is a good idea. Not that Im overly concerned with the climate, but a simple FI system will outperform carbs anyday, and it starts and idles easy. I cant see me ever wanting a computer to do the driving. I work with them too much to trust them.

Here is my take on "self driving" for what its worth: Ill look into it when I can get in, push a button and tell it to take me to work, while I go back to sleep. Otherwise, what is the purpose? If I still have to monitor the road, and keep an eye on it, Ill do it myself. We live in a day when people cant even turn on their lights, windshield wipers and high beams by themselves. Laziness. And the older I get, the less I want a computer doing things for me. I work with computerized navigation on a daily basis in aviation, and its an absolute nightmare. No thanks. I currently have a 67 ford f100 Im going to get running, and Im going to drive it. No computers, no driving aides, and nothing to break. The gadgets are nice, until they start breaking. And if they arent broke right now, they are currently heading toward being broke.

As an aircraft mechanic, I can tell you all the people involved with this aircraft over the last few months are sitting on pins. I have worked on a helicopter, and signed the 337 sending it into service, that crashed and killed the pilot. It was operator error in my case, and there was no investigation into the work we performed at all. Simple operator error that should not have happened. Sometimes these pilots, and even the maintenance crews are pressured to get another flight in, or get the aircraft back in the air. We have converted helicopter that make about $3500 for a 15 minute flight. Even with expenses that could be over $8K an hour. There is pressure to get it in the air, making money. Prayers for the Bryant family (even now, awhile later, they still need it), and for the families of everyone involved. They will find out what happened. They almost always do.

I just wanted to say, Mike has been busy. I ran across some tires of his on ebay, and went to his site. Holy cow, he has some nice large scale stuff now. I did order a set of 1/16 scale drag wheels and tires, and if they look as good as I think they will, Ill order some for a 1/12 and maybe even some 1/24 dually wheels. I need a dually to tow my big car hauler. Thank to Mike for filling this need. Its one of the things that I hate about building. Not being able to get the right wheels and tires for the project. https://www.3dscaleparts.com/

That kinda proves my point, a little. If you are adding engine sounds to your electric vehicle, why not just buy a car with a real engine? Whats next, are they going to make it vibrate and torque when you hit the "throttle?" And I cant help you with onions, sauteed or not. Ive tried, but they make me want to puke. ?

I hate it. But I also hate the direction the car industry is going these days overall. I especially hate all the electric cars. One of the best things about a car is the sound of a well put together engine. The cam, intake, exhaust, induction....The visceral sound of a big nasty cammed V8 is incredible. Looks are important too, but this "truck" looks like a bad joke. I understand the whole buzz thing. Dodge did it very well with the release of the Demon. But holy cow. Itll take more than 2 years for this thing to grow on most people. There will always be people who think its practical, or that it even looks good, and they will buy it. There are also people who think onions taste good.

He was one of the greats. He also inspired many of the other greats that play today.

I was browsing a few 3D sites yesterday and noticed this: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/3d-model-specialties?section=1972+C10&s=0 A 1/12 and 1/16 scale C10 is now available. Ill be looking at getting one in the future, just cant do it right now. Has anyone got one of these yet? Ive ordered from him before and I was happy with the parts and the customer service. No frame or interior yet, but its a start.

I stopped watching NHRA years ago. Its just not fun anymore. The cars look dumb, and whoever has all the money can bend the rules for the win. Just ask the pro stock motorcycle guys about Harley Davidson. That was the last straw for me. HD makes cruisers, so they are heavy and under powered compared to sport bikes. But they were allowed to manipulate the rules to allow them to "compete", only they were winning everything, all the time. Setting records within a few years of competing that the metric bikes chased for decades. Not because HD makes a faster bike in real life, but because the rules benefited them exponentially. Then they started all that NASCAR BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH of "racing for the championship", so you have like a sweet 16 thing....Just dumb. Id rather watch the no prep, or drag week stuff. Its real.

I havent built the kit, but I recently installed an IFS in a 67 dodge d-100 and it would be close to the same. Its not a model, but the parts are the same. The long black arms attach to the spindle (the part with the silver disc, I assume is a brake rotor), and is the attaching point for the steering rack. I see the a-arms in the baggie, so the long ones are on the bottom, the short one go on top. The thing sticking over the frame rails should be the upper shock/bag mount. I included a shot of the mock-up of the truck, really just because I love it, but to also show how it sits. An IFS is usually installed to modernize a suspension, and it usually lowers the frame quite a bit. The truck was just set together for the shot, and is back apart now. The truck will actually be about 1-1/2" lower than this picture. Hope it helps.

Ive seen that video. Crazy fast, and a short wheelbase car. Nuts.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, But Tom Bailey just went 5.998 at 250 yesterday at drag week. The worlds quickest and fastest pass for a street legal car, and the world first 5 second pass. It was on the last day, after driving almost 1000 miles throughout the week, even in the rain. Steve Morris, who built the engine, was his co-driver and said they change tires, switch over the fuel system, turn the boost up and run it. Crazy fast.

Today its about aftermarket and availability. I love my modern 5.7 hemi. But to get 500 hp, it would cost almost $8k. I can do a junkyard LS/ebay turbo swap and make almost 850hp for way less than that. I have a 67 ford f100 Im going to start working on soon, along with my sons 67 dodge d100. Im on the fence about swapping an LS into the f100. They are so cheap and plentiful, and the aftermarket is crazy. Have you seen what used coyotes are going for?

I work at Tri-cities Airport, which is just a few minutes by air (about 45 minutes by car) from Elizabethton Airport. Typically the NASCAR people used to come in here for the races, and some still do. Its a nicer, bigger airport, with longer runways and a tower, and its closer to the track I believe. Rumor has it Dale and a few other racers/drivers went to Elizabethton to save money on fuel. Its about $2 a gallon cheaper there.

Im with you on that. Personally I liked the evil twins. He took reproduction sheetmetal to build this car. But at least he didnt cut up an original 57 to do it. The cars are still very impressive when you see them on the street, pulling a trailer in 90+ degree weather for 200+ miles through traffic. Im waiting on the 5 second pass Lutz promised a while back. If I had the money, I would do it.