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Everything posted by drummerdad

  1. Im with you on that. Personally I liked the evil twins. He took reproduction sheetmetal to build this car. But at least he didnt cut up an original 57 to do it. The cars are still very impressive when you see them on the street, pulling a trailer in 90+ degree weather for 200+ miles through traffic. Im waiting on the 5 second pass Lutz promised a while back. If I had the money, I would do it.
  2. I know this is old, sorry. The Drag week rules state it must be legal, licensed and insured in the state where the owner is from or where the car is registered. It doesnt have to be legal in every state. Its just like if I drive to Virginia, I dont have to pass the smog tests, as long as my car is legal and licensed in my state, which is Tennessee. There are exceptions, of course, but some states are more lenient, and some are not. There are also standard DOT rules that every state must comply with. As for the lights, it has to be legal for the year it is registered for, in this case either a 68 (it is modeled after a 68 Camaro) or a kit car. The red lights are rings around the actual headlight, usually called "Halos". New cars such as the Hellcat come with these "halos" already as daytime running lights, but in a different color. They probably double as blinkers also. And they can be color changing, so the red is just for the photoshoot. Im sure he knows he cant run red lights on the street. I recently got to go to attend 2 days of the dragweek. It was crazy. If you havent seen these cars in person, go and see them. They are capable of running 6s at over 200 mph, and they do drive them almost 200+ miles a day between races, in the rain and park them wherever they want. They are street legal, and dependable, and are required to run a very specific and punishing route between races. You wouldnt want to drive them daily, of course, and they arent legal everywhere. But they are amazing feats of engineering. Personally I dont like the Camaro as much as the yellow 57. I prefer steel "door" cars. The promods are ridiculous.
  3. Im pretty sure the NMCA has some drag radial classes. Also a few years ago Tom Bailey won Hot Rod drag week on a set....the same set he drove about a thousand miles on throughout the week.
  4. I would be willing to commit to at least two or three sets of tires, as long as the price is not through the roof (it is just a hobby). I think if you make an M&H or Mickey Thompson drag tire, it would go well. As long as it isnt a pro mod size tire. I would also be willing to buy a 3d printed set of wheels, and mail them to you, for measurements. I have seen a few nice sets of 3d wheels, but finding tires is like finding bigfoot. There are pictures of them, and people talking about them occasionally, maybe even some grainy video footage, but noone can actually find any. I would also be willing to buy two or three sets of the drag motorcycle tires posted in the picture above, by mnagatani. Both front and back would be killer. I can even widen and cut down the wheels to make them work. I just need tires. I wonder if it would be easier to machine rubber stock? I have thought about asking local shops.
  5. I agree with all the recommendations above. Almost any width, in various heights from 26" to 31" would be welcome. A few drag radial options would be nice too, along with DOT bias ply tires for the serious racer in a DOT class. I know you cant fulfill every wish list, so we will take what we can get. There are a few guys printing wheels already. It might be a good idea to see what dimensions their wheels are to make sure what you make can fit whats available already. And dont forget the motorcycle guys. There are some really good 1/12 scale motorcycles kits, and almost NOTHING in the way of options for those models. A good DOT tire, and maybe a set of wheels for those would make you a couple of friends.
  6. Do you have plans for printing more modern wheels? And maybe tires also?
  7. I have tried searching for larger scale stuff. I start with a very specific search like; " 1/12 scale model car parts", but you still get other stuff completely unrelated to any of the words in that description. So, I start there, and when I find something that is actually related to my search, I go to the sellers store. Typically they have more items. I then bookmark the sellers page if I find something of interest. You will still have to browse hundreds of pages, no matter how specific you try and search. It rather annoying searching with the shapeways search function. I typically get about 3000+ pages, no matter how much I try and narrow the search. I shouldnt have to browse hundreds of pages of n-scale railroad buildings, when I search for scale model car parts.
  8. I like a wheel color that makes the wheels stand out. My wifes metallic black durango has gunmetal wheels. It looks okay, and some cars can look good with the all black look, but most dont. This is my car. It would look ridiculous with black wheels. You have to know what works. In the case of that Hummer above, holy cow. Someone want some attention.
  9. I dont mind a little chrome. I do however, HATE this new trend of everyone putting black wheels on everything. In my opinion only a handful of cars can pull of the "murdered out" look. I cant wait for that trend to disappear. Tires are supposed to be black, wheels are not.
  10. To me, I build every model like I would like to own it. I wont build a model car of a real car I wouldnt personally own. And my personal car is modified, so why wouldnt my models be? Plus, as stated above, its a lot cheaper to build a car, lets say a 69 camaro, totally custom to scale, than in real life. There are about a dozen different ways to build one that would fit my personal taste.
  11. Several manufacturers have went away from the "conventional" valve setups, with some success. I own a ducati 999, which has desmodromic valves. It eliminates valve float, and makes a little more power, but its hard to beat the cam/lifter/pushrod/rocker arm/valve setup. The old stuff runs forever. This newer technologically advanced stuff doesnt seem to last as long, and costs a bunch more to fix when it breaks. But I guess thats the point.
  12. I already have it bookmarked. Along with a few members fotki accounts. Some amazing talent here on this forum, you just have to be willing to stalk a few people...
  13. My wife and I had a run of several GM vehicles that all needed major repairs. We had an all wheel drive Astro van that broke a front axle, a Venture van that needed a transmission, a Saturn outlook that also needed a transmission, and a 4wd LTZ suburban that needed a new engine. In GMs defense, most of these vehicles were well used when we got them. But the Saturn and the Suburban were both newer, with less than 75k miles, and costing more than $20k. The suburban was the last straw. We traded it on a new Durango, and so far we love it. I also have my 07 charger with 120k miles, that runs like a champ. I had to travel for work recently, and put 6000 miles on the car in 2 months. The only problem I had was tie rods, and that was because Arkansas roads are horrible. I am now a dodge guy. I understand the dedication it takes to stick to a vehicle. I just got tired of it with my GMs. Ill never get rid of this charger though. I love it. I am considering a truck in the next few years, but I dont know what to get. I love 70s, 80s, and 90s chevy trucks.
  14. I love this build. Its an inspiration for my 1/8 iroc build. Some day Ill get to start it.
  15. A small update. Im trying to do a direct drive supercharger, like the one here...direct drive centrifugal supercharger The whole thing is scratch built, and it isnt finished yet. Ill clean it up, add some bolt heads, and details. I havent went too far yet, because I dont know if Ill keep this engine, or get another. Im ordering tires, and chassis parts later tonight, and will continue the chassis. The goal has changed slightly. Im going to shoot for a car that has been certed to 7.50s. The car would be a high 7s, low 8s car, complete with trailer, and such. Im going to practice a bit before going into a full detailed, unlimited drag week car. I know the pictures arent good. Sorry, phone camera, and non-tech guy, with semi shiney metal background.
  16. What about rod ends? I know how to tell what size the rod end would scale too, but I dont know what size should be used for wheelie bars, or a 4-link. Any information on that?
  17. Do you plan on machining, 3D printing, or casting these wheels? And what scales are you considering? I am minutes away from Bristol, and a lot of guys use these wheels at the street fights. Maybe a wheels shop would have them also.
  18. I too gave up on professional drag racing a long time ago. Too much sponsor fluffing for me. But, I love drag racing. Its one of those things you have to do to enjoy. I love the Hot Rod drag week stuff, and any form of street legal racing, (and some of the not so legal racing, sadly). You can keep the pro classes. I really want to see one you you pros build the Larson S10 (hint hint Comp1839). I might try one day, but I need to learn a lot still.
  19. drummerdad


    Ive seen some models I would pay that kind of money for, if I had it to spare. Some of the 1/8 scale builds here would be well worth that, but Im sure they would have to go for a lot more. I like his work, though it isnt my style, I can appreciate the talent.
  20. It might be the way they are packaging them. I have removed a kit from the box, and repacked it, and couldnt get the lid back on. The boxes are typically just big enough to get the kit in. If you dont stack the parts right, it could cause pressure, even without a crushed box. I recently bought an old 1/16 Lamborghini Countach (my dream car). I had been waiting for a good deal, and found one. The box was damaged, but not crushed. I pulled the kit out, and the parts are so warped, I dont know if I can build it. All the parts could have fit in one box, but it was loosely packaged in two large boxes, then another even larger box. All the parts seem to be warped....doors, body, tub, everything. So, I dont know what happened.
  21. I looked, and couldnt find anything either. Im glad they are allowing EFI now, but I stopped watching televised NHRA racing years ago. The body can be factory steel, or Carbon fiber by an approved manufacturer. Im not sure if there is an advantage to the CF, since they are still restricted by weight and shape. I did read the CF bodies have smart chips installed so they can scan them, instead of using the templates to insure accuracy. I also read they are working to eliminate the hood scoops, and killing the 500 cid DRCE platform, and going with smaller supercharged engines, closer to what the manufacturers make. IDK, whatever. Maybe someone else knows. Sorry.
  22. What are you doing for Wheels?
  23. Good luck. I have been searching for awhile, with a little success. A forum member named astroracer said he could machine wheels and he gave me a reasonable price (which I wont repeat without his consent, just message him), along with the suggestions above. Tires are another story. Most big scale guys make their own. You can get about any tire you want 3d printed. If you want top notch wheels (machined aluminum) and custom tire sizes (3D printed) itll cost close to $600. I am saving for the 1/8 iroc, and plan to do this, later. I have dropped back to 1/16 and 1/12 scales. Much cheaper, more parts, and big enough that I can see the parts.
  24. OK. Thank you. When I get back around to my 1/24 stuff, I might give you a try. Your wheels do look nice.
  25. I dont have a facebook account, and dont want one. But, I will use my wifes, if you offer large scale wheels. Anything in 1/12 or 1/16? I looked, but without a login, its a short page.
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