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Mark IV

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    111
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About Mark IV

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.timemachinesauto.com
  • Facebook
    time machines motorsports

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/43, 1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Western New York
  • Full Name
    Rick Muck

Recent Profile Visitors

1,674 profile views
  1. LHD Gulf Seven

    So how do you get a magnetic "Hide-A-Key" to stick to a fiberglass fender?
  2. Shelby Thunderbird

    You can build this: http://www.tommaruskacars.us/ITALIEN/it_r_01.html Back about 1964 one of the model car magazines did a work up on what parts to use. The AMT 64 T-Bird annual had a roof that was a copy of the roof on the Italien. And the car was actually a 1962 convertible that had the top added by Dearborn Steel Tubing who did a lot of prototype work for Ford. They added the 1962 fenders and doors to update it to te 63 model year.
  3. King Cobra drag car

    Rules required the "stock exhaust system" be in place but not that it had to be used. The 289 Dragonsnakes had the same setup; the rear exiting exhaust/mufflers with side pipes that were actually connected.
  4. #2, 1962 Ford Thunderbird

    Trunk on a Thunderbird convertible opens to the rear, that is it is hinged at the rear to allow the top to retract into the trunk. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjpn4DY5fLfAhUjqoMKHY8QAAUQwqsBMAF6BAgBEAc&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2NLwZV6A9i4&usg=AOvVaw2FTlAp2IYQJr6VOJuPfEb_ If you are looking to do replica stock the engine is black with argent silver valve covers and air cleaner unless it has the "dress up" option in which case they will be chrome
  5. 289 Cobra 1/43..replicating my 1:1 car

    Most of the AC fiberglass was an "off-white" color. I mixed this but have now found an "aged flat white" in Model Master that is quite close.
  6. 289 Cobra 1/43..replicating my 1:1 car

    Working on the windscreen mounting. The two little tabs that locate the unit are long since sanded away. The first paint job was ruined when I used some temporary tacking putty to hold the windscreen in place, the putty ate into the paint so a strip and repaint was required. I have now duplicated the black rubber molding that runs under the lower frame piece and am using Tamiya tape to locate the mounting. Still undecided about what to use to secure the frame to the body, slow or fast setting epoxy? Or something else? And also a shot of my solution for paint palettes, glue depositories for when you use a pin to apply, etc. These are Formica samples that you can get at home stores. I have a chain with about 200 that I have been using for years. When they are filled up, toss 'em and break out a new one!
  7. 1970 Boss 302

    The four "circles" in the middle of the flor pan are the rubber plugs that cover the seat mounting holes. Paint them "rubber" or semi-gloss black. A lot of Mustang modelers miss these.
  8. 289 Cobra 1/43..replicating my 1:1 car

    A third party, out of state, postdated check made out to me!
  9. 289 Cobra 1/43..replicating my 1:1 car

    DING, ,DING, DING we have a winner! 73 Europa Twin Cam special. The pieces are now in Chicago destined to go back together.
  10. 289 Cobra 1/43..replicating my 1:1 car

    And can anyone I.D. the car in the door over the Volvo hood?
  11. 289 Cobra 1/43..replicating my 1:1 car

    Also used some craft store "glass paint" for the turn signals. This is for painting glass to replicate stained glass and when put over plating makes really good amber and red signals.
  12. 289 Cobra 1/43..replicating my 1:1 car

    Ron, Pull it out of the drawer and build it! White with red, Princess Blue with red, or whatever! Here is a Princess Alice Blue with red we recently did for a customer.
  13. 289 Cobra 1/43..replicating my 1:1 car

    Finally got some bench time. I had removed the single, large post Monogram used to locate the bumperettes and replaced with two thin posts as per the real car. I also removed the parting lines on the bumper hoops with a Flexi-File to improve the look. Of course this removed the plating, I could have sent them for plating but instead airbrushed them with Molotow "chrome". This stuff rocks! Wish we had it years ago when I was young and dinosaurs roamed the earth. Compare to the red car. Also did a new set of seats to better replicate the leather. Added some Chart Tape belts with buckles and the leather buckle under pad done with some paint and the aforementioned Molotow. Made a better shifter turning the boot out of sprue and using a piece of wire with a paint glob for the knob. Added a turn signal switch (and yes, on the Cobra they are on the right side of the column!) Installing emblems, I like to use Tamiya clear as it holds well and if smeared can be polished off if it is noticeable at all! Looking for something to use to replace the steering wheel rim as it is about 4 inches thick in scale. Looking at hard "O" rings, etc. to find something of proper thickness and diameter. Open to suggestions?
  14. THE BEST FORD 427 SOHC

    Cammers were never painted Ford Blue. That color came in 1966 and all the cammers were built prior to that color use. They were painted black and pictures of the crate engines concur with that. And yes, you could buy a either a single 4V or dual 4V version over the counter at your local Ford store. About $6000 if I recall correctly. I have the price sheet somewhere in my "files".
  15. Playmate Mustang