Mark IV

All U.S. Fords from 82 on had either grey or black engines. 81/early 82 was the end of "Ford blue" engines. That said, the most common rattle can applied to a Ford was blue so when a previous owner painted them they almost always went to blue....and usually the wrong shade! I had one of the first 84 SVO (charcoal grey with grey cloth) when I was a dealer.

But you didn't replicate the bent oil cooler scoop! (look close at the auction pictures)

I did one of these way back in the day. One of the flaws is that the lower rear body is moulded with the floor pan. I cut it off at the seam underneath and behind the rear wheels and bonded/moulded it to the rear clip. You can still snake the chassis into the rear clip and work it into the front splitter so you lose the nasty horizontal seam that would otherwise be behind the rear wheels.

Lacquer putty also will continue to "shrink" for months so the nice, smooth paint you laid down will have sanding scratches show up down the road. I use USC "Icing" and "Thin Ice" two part polyester puttys and they do not shrink plus they are ready to sand in minutes.

69-70 Boss 302s came with Goodyears only. All Shelbys came with Goodyears.

Ah yes, the Monogram 427 with the wire wheels they never had! Don't know who decided this was a good idea. Some sunbursts would have been nice or even some of the FIA wheels early 427s used, but no, we tool up wires that are poor and were never used!

Having assembled a Hubley wagon while on vacation circa 1963, in the Dearborn Inn no less, with no tools other than a tube of glue and being all of 11 at the time, I can assure you that is likely the finest '60 Ford wagon around. Very nice. You have just taken me back to a road trip to Michigan with my grandparents and a cousin in a 1963 Falcon Squire wagon (one of our dealership demos) that include wonders like the Rouge steel plant and Dearborn Assembly, Greenfield Village and of course The Henry Ford (then known as The Edison Institute and Henry Ford Museum) all amazing to me at that age. And while I have grown older, I have not grown up! Nice job!

FYI, "bullet" Birds are painted body color under the hood area, the inner fenders, etc. should be red. The firewall is covered with black undercoating up to the seam below the cowl. The radiator support is painted semi-gloss black on the front side so as not to show body color through the grille. I also don't understand why AMT included "wide" whitewalls, the 62s had 1" whites. Looks really good! Windshield tint works!

Very nice! I went down to my workbench and stared at my multiple projects underway (if you keep the bench full with incomplete stuff, it hides the fact that I almost NEVER finish anything) and bowed down shouting "We're not worthy!!!" Heck, I fat finger stuff on the full size car! More please Sir...................

AMT. Has been reissued several times.

Yes, it is 2171 that is for sale. Will be replaced with a MK I. We have recently sold several MK Is that are done to early car specs and are working on the Borrani wire wheel option! Let me know what you need, pictures, dimensions, etc. I have access to a couple of FAV cars as well.

No, It is a Superformance as I am a dealer for them. Lee has only built and sold two "continuation" cars as I understand. I will ask him next time I see him what the count is now.

Very nce. Here are some shots of the underside of P2171. If you need any particular photos let me know, I either have them or can shoot them.

There is not much ground clearance from the bottom of the anti-roll bar link to the ground.....when the tub is set to 4.5" the clearance to the lower link is less than 3"!!!! I live in constant fear of speed bumps!

The best GM design of the 60s! the 63 to 65 Rivs were clean, like the 61-63 Lincolns.

Back up the letters with some masking tape before you polish them, it will prevent them from tearing off or bending. I put the tape reinforced fret down on a wood block and the either use the Dremel with a polishing bit and compound or metal polish by hand. The nickel will shine up like chrome because the bright color you see on "chrome" is actually the nickel plating. "Chrome" is used as a thin sealer to prevent the nickel from tarnishing. On a model the tarnish issue is not usually a problem as the exposure to the elements is limited. Be sure to match the level of polish to the rest of the model's brightwork. You can make the PE look so smooth and bright that the rest of the plated plastic will look like dog doo.

How are you doing the uprights and spindles? Castings? Lookin' good.......It looks just like I do it in my dreams!

The Mark I street coupe was about $15,000+ in 1966.....when a nice Caddy was $4500! And the Mark I was finished better than the MK III. Car and Driver was very critical of the finish on the MK III. I know Bill Kolb Jr. who was the "Hi Po" sales guy at the Ford store in NYC who handled the car for for Ford and provided it to C&D for review. Ford had at one point decided to put the GT40 into some version of real "production" and gave FAV a budget to do so. Only days later they pulled the plug on that program and the GTs that were sold for "civilian" use became redundant to the goals of FoMoCo.

Yes, Several MK I "street coupes" sere sold in the US. This was pre-1967 when the regulations took effect that kept the car out although units that were already here were legal to sell...that said many did not sell and were returned to the UK for disposal.

The Fujimi tires can be narrowed to produce whatever width you need. Here is a "rear" that has been sectioned to work on a GT40 MK I "mid-tail" street car. The tire is on a Fujimi Ferrari Daytona Borrani wire, compare to the GT40 kit supplied "wire" wheel. Of course the aftermarket machined wires would be better yet! The Borrani has not yet been stripped, they were painted spokes in most cases with aluminum rims that were either polished or machine finish.

More importantly is YES, NICE!!! I had thought about doing a brass tub in a large scale, making a buck to hammer the roof panel over, etc. Then I sobered up and realized I don't have the skills or patience to do justice to such a project. Keep the pictures coming! Here are some tub under construction pictures of the 1/1 unit.

I hope Lee didn't really tell you that. I know Lee and I know the true story. Ford did not "sell" or "give" the GT40 program to Holman. And the tubs (not 50 units) are later build tubs from Tennant. Lee is doing a nice MK II but he holds no rights to the design or name, Safir GT40 Spares owns both. There were no VINS assigned to those tubs. And the "toolman" GT pictured is a Superformance MK I.

I hope Lee didn't really tell you that. I know Lee and I know the true story. Ford did not "sell" or "give" the GT40 program to Holman. And the tubs (not 50 units) are later build tubs from Tennant. Lee is doing a nice MK II but he holds no rights to the design or name, Safir GT40 Spares owns both. There were no VINS assigned to those tubs. And the "toolman" GT pictured is a Superformance MK I.

Note that the diecast (red unit) sold as a "Shelby Collectible" is actually a Superformance replica! It has the Superformance LHD dash and the console/park brake handle that is unique to the Superformance GT40. The exterior however is correct and has all of the RHD MK II features such as the hatch to access the brake/clutch reservoirs. It is a nice piece for the low cost.

Trumpeter totally missed the shape of the doors where they form the roof. The rear edge is curved, not straight as they did them.